Nodes in Beechworth Gorge

Boulders and quarries located adjacent to Gorge Rd

See http://www.chockstone.org/Beechworth/Bouldering.htm

The first problems are encountered in a small quarry which lies on your right soon after entering the Gorge Drive. These can be a bit chossy after winter.

Topo and info from http://www.chockstone.org/Beechworth/Bouldering.htm

Up the arête avoiding the ledges on your left.

Start at the dodgy flake and straight up, the hardest part is the mantle!

Further along the road and past the Flat Rock Road junction is a boulder with a hand crack facing the road.

The obvious hand crack facing the road. Beware of its namesake in the crack!

Park at the 1st lookout and walk down the left (S) side of the slab for 20mtrs, this small quarry has 4 decent problems.

Sit start in the far right corner crack and traverse left across the 'bowl' then up the main crack using the crimps out to the left

Sit start and go straight up the middle. Use left edge and the middle crimps.

The left arete.

The pinky fingers sized crack.

The central arête. Start as for Unnamed 4 and traverse in then up. Beware the creaking hold on the arête.

The right hand corner.

Park at the Powder Magazine carpark and walk up the path immediately opposite (NW) towards Ingram’s Rock. This small quarry is at the top of the 1st ridge and on your right (E).

Climb to the edge/ledge and continue to the top via an easy mantle.

Climb to the edge/ledge and continue to the top via an easy mantle.

Climb the shallow groove to the right of Unnamed 2.

The ledges in the right hand corner make for an easy route up.

The next 2 problems can be found by walking across the walking path in a westerly direction from the quarry mentioned above. You will find the next quality problem (Quarryman) by walking around the back of problems 12 and 13. This thought provoking problem is in another small quarry 20mtrs to the NW of the above problems.

Stand start at the hanging flake and climb it.

Sit start at hanging flake where it almost touches the ground.

7 metres right of problem no.2 is an obvious brushed face/slab. Stand start slightly left of centre using high gaston. Delicately smear up and right, using tiny holds to gain good left sidepull and high right gaston. Trust your feet whilst you turn the lip then finish up final slab.

A stunning line. Delicate moves up the central arête/rib lead to a committing top over.

This boulder is in the northern region of Area E away from the main group of boulders. Fairly straight forward following the crack line up.

Around the side of the above boulder. A delicate start with the left hand on the underside of the a small crack. Work the right hand up into the crack and then use both hands the work your way up the crack. A difficult high right footing required to leverage up along the crack.

Proceed down Gorge Road towards Spring Creek to find the following boulders. You will pass a number of graffitied boulders; the 1st of which contains a highball hand crack, this is problem 15.

Often attempted, rarely topped out on! The highball hand crack is usually top roped as the crux is right at the top. Old school!

Adjacent East to the above, also marked 'The Three Sisters'. Not a bad crack to work up but the top out is awkward and rough.

Continues on from the above top out. Delicately work across the rock then up the other side. A tree is conveniently placed behind you at the insanely chossy crux!

Head further East from The Three Sisters rocks. Very difficult start due to the absence of any decent footholds. There is a flake sticking out of the ground that might come in handy... Bump up your hand holds on the left and right then work both into the crack. Big reach over the top of the boulder to secure a good hold to top out.

Further down the Gorge Road is an overhanging boulder. Park in the space and walk back up the road to the next 3 problems.

Easily visible from the road, this classic highball finger crack is a stunning problem with the hardest moves saved for the finish.

A few nice moves on this overhung boulder’s face leads to a hard pull to top out.

Work further along the ledge of Roadkill for a more difficult top out

Should be hard- Steep moves on rough, painful crimps. Traverse right along the seam, then throw to good holds and finish up Roadkill extension. Sit start looks possible.

Left of Roadkill. Almost certainly has been done. Lay away with the big undercut edge and up.

An old time easy classic up the slab.

Sit start at the slopers and up to the good dyke edges, head left and step off when matched at the last big edge.

On top of the larger boulders in the area. Not much to see here as it is so short. Perhaps try traversing?

Further around the hill. A great fun and easy chimney! Variety of ways to work it to make it harder.

Around the side of the above chimney. A difficult looking rounded crack.

Spring Creek Boulders

Classic! This is the 1st boulder on river right about 50 metres downstream from the bridge and ascends the stepped overhung orange face. Sit start using the chockstone for feet and pull hard off dual side pulls to get off the ground.

As above without the starting chockstone for feet.

Sit start in finger crack on the downstream side of Bayou Baby. Up on slopers, heading left up the vague arête to join Bayou Baby at the top and pull over.

Thought provoking! The next boulder just downstream from The Nymph has a single big jug on its lower lip. Start matched in the big jug, pull up and over with much technicality.

Start 1 metre right of Caddis on very small sloping holds and high right heel hook on small edge. Big move left into huge hole, then finish as for Caddis.

You'll find the next problems by following the creek down to the large waterfall and pool. Sunset Strip takes the orange slab to the W (river left) of the waterfall.

An extremely photogenic problem providing eerie climbing in a great position. Traverse into the bottom of the corner crack at the base of the pool, step left to gain the wall proper, up to little block, left around this, take a deep breath and head diagonally up left to the top, following the orange rock. (Not the black streak!).

Cross over and walk downstream on river right of the creek until you get to the next big waterfall and see a large boulder which juts out into the creek. “A Little Ray of Sunshine” starts on the left hand (W) end of the boulder's upstream face and just to the right of the nice looking arete with the big sloping jug.

Cross back to river left of the creek and follow it downstream passing many rapids and small waterfalls, passing problem 28 on the way. “Sink or swim” is on the boulder about 100 metres from the end of the waterfalls.

A striking and powerful line on very smooth overhung rock. Start matched on sloping hold/jug. Head diagonally right and up, top out.

Start at largest low hold on arête and straight up to top out…easier than it first appears when using the full array of holds.

Start as for ‘Flotsam’. Take a deep breath and traverse left across the lip to the big flat top to a mildly terrifying pull over.

Scary slabbing. Starts behind the cypress pines in the small ‘cove’ on river left. Straight up the clean black streak.

The small boulder in the centre of the creek provides a good problem if the start isn’t underwater! Sit start on the obvious big flat top on the river left side of the boulder; follow the line of holds to the top.