Routes in Newnes Plateau

Crag Classic - the obvious line just inside the cave.

Gorgeous and impossible looking line. Absolute world-class classic. Batman on fix rope to start DUB anchor. Stout start at finger lock in horizontal break below anchor, progress steep terrain on pinkie locks, flairy hand jam, pinch, etc to double crimp. Enter wild crux through 60deg overhang with four consecutive finger locks, crimp, pocket, small dynos, etc to uncomfortable rest in break. From there it's easy gr26 but so good to under roof. Climb easy but very exposed roof to tricky exit gr23. Walk off with a smile. Cleaning is best by climbing it again to DUB anchor under roof, clean roof and lower from anchor clean gear to start anchor.

Please be careful with cams, although the rock is solid enough and immaculate for fingers , cams could damage this gem particularly in the crux section. Don't use cams in the finger locks, protect crux in crack above crimps and run it out. Protection is great in smaller sizes where fingers wont fit.

Start on platform in the back of cave. 5*RB 2*RB Anchor (7 * Draws)

Left of obvious scoop. Juggy fun varied climbing, Just follow the 5 bolts straight to lower offs.

1m right of LTT, tending right then up. Airy and ok climbing, but position gives it the stars. Climbing on Spaced bolts. (Tree Belay)

Smiley black corner

Bouldery start over bulge to balancy slab following the line of bolts to anchors.

3m right of hump the camel, following line of carrots

Up obvious blunt bulgey arete

The 1st route you come to. On the outside of the cave. Scramble up EZ ground, to a nice flake - punchy to anchors

Reachy move past first bolt, following line of rings to to lower offs. (marked as CV on topo)

Fun climbing with variety of moves, following face just right of the scoop.

Thin moves after first bolt (crux), following line of bolts over bulge to double bolt belay

(The Fear of Aretes.) Slab starting to the left of 'Arete' steepening at finish.

Cruxy to gain the roof. Then heel hooking heaven.

This is the short version of the climb Beyond Belief. It goes slightly overhanging on good hand jams to heavily overhanging on wider hands/fists. It basically stops close to the turning point where the proper ceiling is starting. You'll know if you're just in "Disbelief" or willing to go Beyond Belief at this point. Grade can feel on the soft side if you have large hands.

Roof hand crack in a cave. Although the whole line includes climbing P1 & P2 below the cave and includes topping out the easy groove above, the popular option is to climb and exit the P3 roof (crux), stand up then aid back down to clean the gear.

1. 25m (12) Right facing corner

2. 20m (17) Roof crack then jugs

3. 20m (24) Roof crack then steep groove

Starts 2m left of the overhanging corner crack. 10m up the vertical wall then straight up the wildly overhanging scoops.

Up redish face 3m rt of obvious scoop, Good face climbing with a rest halfway.

Climb out of wide crack onto to eays slab following the many ring to top. Best protected easy sport route in the country.

1m right of corner straight up following a spaced carrots. (Only 3 bolts on the entire route) If you fall between the second and third bolt you may deck! (Tree Belay)

An easy slab going to more vertical finish. Follow line of bolts to lower offs.

Up slab, following spaced carrots. Scary for grade to first high clip.

2m right of MC, up face onto faint arete at the top. (2 carrot bolt belay).

5m right of Heart of Darkeness, up orange face following rings finishing at anchors before dinner plates.

2m rt of BM. Straight up orange face left side of big cave, getting slightly steeper at the top.

Bouldery start up to slab. 3 bolts to lower offs.

First line of carrots tending left at bottom then up

Big moves on big holds going through pumpy territory.

Steep start over bulge onto slab at 2/3rd's height, pumpy.

15m right of Snow shine, Follow the scoops and pockets up the steepening wall.

3m rt of TUA, up scoops tending left onto TUA at the last bolt to anchors

Twenty meters to the right of Drop Bear is an orange face. Climb the crack, flake and on to the arete.

Bridge up obvious corner and step left to climb fantastic iron-stone features on the face above

3m rt of YCTAA, start up thin slab, passing some ledges to the top

Up face unto slab at half height, run out the top.

2m rt of funnel, up featured face to ledge and anchors.

Bouldery start to crux below second bolt, crimpy and tough. 3 bolts to lower offs.

Blast up the ironstone monorail . All time.

Big step juggy moves down low with balancy crux up high, fun pumper. 5 RB to lowers off.

Shared start with SF, tend right at 3rd bolt into funnel.

Start up the crack, move left into corner and back right to gain the arete.

Right side of slab, carrots and friends.

2m rt of BME, up the next obvious blunt arete tending rt to shared anchors

The bolted crack. Hard to gain access to roof crack, then fight the pump to the anchors.

Goes to top of wall via large L facing flake and roof. Needs 70m rope.

The track hits the wall here. Easy start to a couple of mantle style moves up ramp rt at top to shared anchors with YCTAA

Start on the ledge, moving up and left to gain arete. Technical climbing on excellent rock.

Reachy moves down low with big holds all the way to anchors. 4 bolts to lower offs.

Same start as GLYM but straight up.

Bouldery start up to first bolt. Then tend right following line of bolts. 3 RB + lower offs.

Amazing finger crack dividing the Disbelief Cave in two. Tricky easier start to shallow hueco below clean splitter (handy Z4#0.1 and bomber C4#4). From there, the angle is about 45-60deg and most of your body weight will be held up by 3 consecutive solid finger locks in some of the most outrageous moves with footwork at head height. Progress on good but shallow huecos to juggy section. Return to ceiling crack with several finger locks up to a fix wire at the end of the finger crack. Always dry and drizzle free. https://youtu.be/Wsu631XwrWU?si=GrCxwJvDCp9SW7Dq

Bridge off tree to get onto right end of wall then up mostly juggy holds.

A 50m rope does reach the ground when lowering-off, but only 1m spare, make sure your 50m rope is 50m.

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

Follow line of bolts through juggy steep moves to thin crux before lowers offs.

Amazing steep line following the crack where the roof of the cave joins the wall. Stickclip and Batman 4m to DUB anchor on ledge avoiding damaging vegetation. Climb steep corner on jugs and small crimps and follow crack under roof. Exit roof and follow easy crack for few meters. Downclimb and back clean, no anchors.

The furthest route on the right hand side of the cave. Starts with two unpleasant fixed hangers just on the outside of the cave.

2m rt of MP. Bouldery start up steepish face on orange rock.

The left most line of bolts following a series of flakes and pockets up the overhanging wall

Start at base of weakness. Line of bolts following weakness up the wall.

2m rt of MBIAC, Up featured face left of shallow corner, over cruxy bulge to the top.

Up as for 'Little Bitch' going right at lower offs then up TVF.

The line straight up the centre of the overhang, tackling some serious steepness. 5m to the right of The vector

Bouldery start then easily up ramp to right. Steep jug hauling until crux and finish to right of the diving board.

Up slab and flake at right end of wall, through small roof onto thin slab. Finish on large ledge

Found on face directly off fire trail. Left line on black face. Climbs up face with some interesting moves up to shared anchor.

Right line on black face. Climbs up jugs all the way to shared anchor.

From ledge step off block and up slab to orange overhang.

A 50m rope does reach the ground when lowering-off, but only 1m spare, make sure your 50m rope is 50m.

100m further around the pagoda on south side, arete right side of obvious funnel.

Direst start to SOTD.

Up face in front of block. Mixed routes os bring some friends.

Mantle onto slab up to small overlap up steeper face

3m rt of SH, Straight up face following orange streak to lowers off first lip.

3m rt of WIWITN, slab with a mantle or two

2m of D&G, up slab to mantle over obvious feature up high, shared anchors with D&G

Large corner with overhanging top section

Big steep moves down low tending left following bolts over up through arete 4 bolts to lower offs.

First route on the wall, up juggy face to anchors.

Up juggy arete on left side of access gully.

1m rt of tree, Up initial faint arete onto slab tending left at top to shared anchors with FWW

2m rt of BW, next obvious blunt arete tending left at top to shared anchors

Up through 2 roofs, the lower one the harder

2m rt of TIOC, Up left side of featured flake up Over couple bulges to the top. Has its own lower off but better for rope to step left at last bolt and use TIOC lower off.

Following line of bolts with a big crank to gain second bolts. Easier territory to lower offs.

P1 20 meters to mini cave.

p2 40+ meters to the top, 3 carrot anchor.

Rap in climb out.

Gear: Double rack of cams plus four #4's, three #5's and two #6's and a 1.2m sling for a chock.

Wide crack mostly with steep mid-section to head wall wide crack. Usually done in 2 pitches at least but could be done as one. Belay in middle is possible off a variety of gear from wires to mediums cams.

Large rack advisable. Also tape if you haven't been to Buffalo recently. Double ropes best if wanting to rap off.

Up dirty crack right of SOTD

Solo, no pro

Stick clip FH, then up steep face to dinner plate face finish.

Up easy ramp at left hand end of wall to first bolt

1m left of tree, Up thinish face onto featured juggy slab to shared anchors

A second pitch to either TAB or S. Up through two roofs. 32 m to ground from anchors.

Same start as per Red Hot Poker but quickly head to the right and up the blackness to the the top.

Same start as for ICFMB, traverse right at 4th bolt and up through faint funnel to anchors.

Epic!

Good little line - but a death wish to access. Starts 50m further along the ironstone dinnerplate ledge. Go around the corner from the cave, and up the unprotected atrocious ironstone dinner plates to get to it.

Up steepish small face right of acess gully