Routes in the lost city of clywdd

this line is the middle crack of the three weakness's that run up the wall. start off the belay block and up through boulder start then hand crack to belay, you could link this in one pitch but rope drag might be a issue. second pitch is perfect hands for a few moves then topout. amazing line and surprisingly everything is there with good gear. [2004 updater - the huge boulder seen in the bottom of the photo topo has subsequently fallen down the mountain as part of a considerable cliff collapse here. Not sure if this has affected the climb itself - but its a scary place to hang out now]

this crack runs up the wall on the lookout access gully and is the first one you get to, perfect double splitter up to roof and either traverse left or right off, great warm up for the area and a stunning pitch.

from the main lookout this is the obvious crack running up a very unique looking cliff with amazing rock quality, its a little chossy down low, gear is good and big! the top half is #6 with a #5 down low. this is a great test piece for the aspiring groveling trad climber!

another amazing crack running up from the same access gully as "movements of pleasure" walk another 10m down and its on your right hand side. great rock with an very cold air blowing out from the crack at the base

this is the insainly big offwidth to chimney with an obvious nest midway up, climbing around the nest is a grade harder but its worth it, its such a nest! When you go down the main wall access gully you follow the cliff line to the right until it smacks you in the face. a #5 and #6 down low before the chimney begins and then to perfect belay ledge to watch the second come up. [warning - this route appears to be in an area of pagoda that is highly likely to collapse as evidenced by nearby massive landslide etc]

off the deck is the crux of this thing, get through it and you get to stem your way to glory up into the monster roof, great rock, good gear and a nice long pitch. this was done in two pitches on the FA however would be nice to do in one stella pitch to the top.