Line on right side of wall. First pitch remains a closed project (stay off) - the pitches above are free to play on.
40m CLOSED PROJECT starting about 20m right of After Life. A long sustained pitch.
39m (25) A spectacular pitch of great orange rock with a gorgeous subtle flake system. Mostly dead vertical but the top kicks back into serious pumpness with a couple of unusual pinch holds. Belay at double bolts - but sit on the edge of the shale slot for max comfort. Aprox 16 draws required + some for belays.
A magnificent flake feature straight up the guts of the wall. Each pitch has merit - but the real wonder is in pitches 3 and 4 (which can be linked if your 2nd is up for it). Named after a scary worn Grigri rope cutting drama during first ascent attempts. Check your gear!
Gear required: Route is entirely bolted and does not require bolt plates. 16 draws should keep you out of trouble (most pitches are 8 to 12 bolts). Three of the belays are hanging - so take your comfy harness and consider a couple of long slings to manage the rope on belay.
Descent: Where you rap down will depend on how much you want to suss the route out in advance, have an escape jugging rope in bad weather and desire to leave cache of food/water/shoes. The cleanest simplest and boldest rap is tying 130m of rope together and rapping down After Life. This mean you have to carry everything up the route and must be able to obligatory climb around grade 22 above bolts. If you rap down the route itself the rope rarely gets in the way of the climbing itself (it's an overhung wall and the route traverses around a fair bit). If you have limited ropes then a fixed 50m rope from the top anchors will get you to belay anchors at top of pitch 4. From there you can rap and pull ropes down using 50m double ropes or a single 80m to the ground (in two raps).
15m (20) Smeary slab on FHs with a potentially damp mantle halfway up. Comfy ledge belay at top. This pitch gets affected by rainfall and during wet weather a small waterfall 150m above.
17m (24/25) Dry! Left rising traverse via several annoying shale breaks to a boulder problem double sidepull throw to gain the main face. Finish by dancing rightwards (and downwards) and then upwards to hanging belay below major flake feature.
22m (24/25) Up delicate flake (low crux) then right and up major fused flake feature to hanging belay on left. It's possible to link into next pitch but would suck on 2nd if you fell off.
27m (24) Some amazing rock. Short flake, right traverse, more flake then take a breather on a sharp knee bar then blast up sustained face to tiny ledge belay below weeping water drip.
18m (24/25) Right again through steepness then up orange streak and through ironstone mini roof to diving board belay ledge.
15m (18) Easy grey jugs then sketch out small conglomerate roof on huge plates (pinned for your pleasure). Belay on big comfy ledge. The top half of this pitch is shared with pitch 5 of After Life.
25m (20) The steep wall right of the cave and wetness. Nice rock for 4 bolts then spooky ironstone jugs (but still steep). Finish by slabbing up conglomerate to double bolts. This is shared with pitch 6 of After Life.
