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Bell Supercrag
A very popular sport crag offering a wide variety of grades, closely spaced bolts and all day shade and rain protection. This is a National Park - respect the rules (no dogs, fires & smoking). |
Control Room
A small east-facing buttress opposite Duck Wall. From the descent gully, about 10m above the height of the Departures ledge, follow a faint track left (looking down) that heads up under a small outcrop (see bottom of p5). Then scramble down a short gully and follow the exposed ledge around left to the base of the climbs. |
Control Room |
26
★★ Windscreen Viper
A short, steep and fierce corner with two solid fistjams separated by the obvious ‘windscreen’ feature. Last bolt is hard to clip. Consider taping up if you’re anticipating having an epic |
27
Sleet of Your Pants
Don’t bring a light belayer, as you might end up on the ground! Steep and gymnastic |
Arrivals (Lower)
Any rescues at this area are going to be problematic due to the steep access via rungs. Make an effort to stick clip first bolts and watch for loose rock and skulls. The popularity of this area means we all must do our best to reduce our environmental impact. Stick to established tracks, don't leave rock cairns or other track markings (it's already obvious!). Shit at home or at the servo on the way to the crag - not in the canyon. This is a National Park so absolutely no dogs, no smoking and no camp fires. Even if it's winter. NO FIRES. NO DOGS. Our ongoing access to this area is not guaranteed and depends on us looking after the place. |
Arrivals (Lower) |
21
★★ Jingle Bells
Up following flake to overhang. |
25
★ Caught in the ..
Just left of Jingle Bells. A few thin moves once you get past half way. |
24
★★ GoGo Juice
Shared 1st bolt with TT then straight up the oranage wall. |
22
★ Train Travel
Start at tree, then left. |
24
★★ Ten No Trumps
Head left and up. Hard move at 4th bolt. Then nice big moves to top. Lower-offs added 25/04/2018. |
24
Bell End
Right of the leaning left facing corner. This is the harder right hand start. Sandy and Snappy ! |
22
Bell End Direct
Nicer and easier start to BE |
★★ The Un~Bell Leaveable Trad Corner Crack
The obvious trad corner crack (a few metres left of Bell End in case you miss it). Up corner to below roof, build a nest of small gear then head right to arête, around it and up to ledge. Gear here is not the best but up and over to the left is better. Up to below next rooflet then right and up to anchors. Cams, C3's, wires. |
28
★ Hop, Skip, Slump
Big span needed on this one... |
24
★★ Wet Paint
The first route at Bell Supercrag! Up the open corner for 2 bolts then head rightish. Reachy and committing moves. Classic. |
22
★★ Three Hour Commute
Up steep corner for 2 bolts, then follow the left line of bolts thru the open corner. |
26
★★ Three Hour Commute Direct
Start just left of WP. Up the thin steepnees and then join into THC for last easy moves to the top. A fairly crucial crimp snapped off in Jul 2018, it is likely much harder than 26 for short people. |
24
★★ Snappy Dresser
Start up the flake, and up to tricky headwall. Good !! |
23
★ Bronze Bell
Start as per SD. Pull on to wall and tricky traverse left under the roof (long draws help), turn the lip and on to the face. Follow the seam, then easy flake and jugs to anchors. |
26
★ Lovable Rogue
Not an obvious (or lovable) start. Hard moves through the roof, with a second tricky bit right before the anchor. |
25
★★ Paddle Steamer
Yet another roof climb from the house of Wishart. Hard climbing through the roof to the right of the tree rewards you with a somewhat relaxing paddle up the short headwall |
25
★★★ Paint God
Through thuggy roof and onto the wall. Move hard right (don't continue up the arete) and continue up the nice pumpy wall. |
26
Games without Frontiers
Any rescues at this area are going to be problematic due to the steep access via rungs. Make an effort to stick clip first bolts and watch for loose rock and skulls. The popularity of this area means we all must do our best to reduce our environmental impact. Stick to established tracks, don't leave rock cairns or other track markings (it's already obvious!). Shit at home or at the servo on the way to the crag - not in the canyon. This is a National Park so absolutely no dogs, no smoking and no camp fires. Even if it's winter. NO FIRES. NO DOGS. Our ongoing access to this area is not guaranteed and depends on us looking after the place. |
27
★★★ Autophagocytosis
A great and sustained linkup. Start up the first 3 bolts of Paint God, clip a new 4th bolt and do a hardish move to join Games Without Frontiers just in time for its crux. Then step left and finish up Apple Pie. |
26
★ God Auto Frontiers (Link-up)
Kind of an obvious linkup with some bolts that are otherwise undescribed. Up arete as for Autophagocytosis, but where it goes L via ridiculous reach, go straight up wall to Frontiers (middle) anchors. |
28
★★ Apple Pie
Hard start then pumpy, rising right traverse. Given that half the route is a 3 star classic and the bottom half isnt half bad (with the exception of putting 5th draw on) , it deserves attention. Sliding the first two draws in the roof down to your belayer as you pass them will illiminate rope drag issues later on. |
26
★★ Caramel Sluice
Starts as for Cavity Search then head right at the first roof. Nice upper wall. |
26
★★★ Cavity Search
Steep roof start past a creaky pinned flake to a vague rest. Continue up the semi-steep wall via two cruxs. |
25
★ Pat the Rat
Hardish, give yourself 26 for the direct finish |
25
★ Dirty 30
Steep long boulder start to a hanging slab and some easier climbing to a ledge. Sweet, interesting moves from the half ledge to the top. Bolted on my 30th birthday. |
23
★ Boysenberry Ripple
Hard start into crack and then continue to move diagonally up tending rightwards. |
24
★ Thunderbolts and Lightning
Steep, with a hard start and exciting finish. Start up CZ for a few moves, then head right and up. At third bolt, step into the corner and continue up the face following bolts, using the corner as necessary. |
26
★★ Crumple Zone
Popular. Up and left along the jug rail for four bolts then up with the crux right at the end. Short but action-packed. |
23
★ Meg's new(?) 23 - Unknown name
The route immediately left of Crumple Zone. Edits welcome if you know the name and/or history! |
24
★★ Insidious
Stick clip high first bolt then jump to the good start hold, pull up into the left of the creepy roof eyes and reach through the roof boulder. Good holds in odd spots finish off this punchy little number |
27
★★ Ms.G's Cheeseburger Springroll
Start as for Does My Bum Look Big On This? then at the lip climb up and right via a hard pocket boulder on the stonker head wall. I promise that I didn't chip that pocket, 100% natural. |
26
★★ Does My Bum Look Big On This?
Great route, with a hard leftwards traverse out the roof, then some of the best rock at bell for the slick headwall. Fixed draws in the roof make it an easy clean. |
28
Yes
Diabolical moves through the roof at the start, then easier climbing on great rock |
23
★ Truffle Shuffle
Bouldery fun start to a nice head wall climb. |
22
★ Rocky Road
Right of 'Rhubarb Crumble'. Streno start |
24
★★ Rhubarb Crumble
Undercut start onto slightly overhanging wall past mantle trending left to anchors. Some prefer to stick clip the second bolt. |
24
★ I Don't Climb I Wobble
Starts 1m L of Rhubarb Crumble. A couple of sharp holds down the bottom and a great reachy crux up top. Finish at RC anchors. |
21
★★ Who the Fuck is Keith
This is a great little climb with some very cool holds, especially early on. Right of Jigger Jeff; solid start and interesting moves. Moves out right and up. |
23
★ Jigger Jeff
Traverse rightwards on slab to ledge, hand traverse left then up steep jugs. A lot of people do the slab traverse and lower off the last ring on the slab, about 21 |
21
★ Jigger Jeff (to the ledge)
Up JJ to fixed biner on the lip of the ledge. (someone has stolen the biner) |
19
★ Belayer's Root
Tricky steep corner flakes with a great finish. |
21
★ Cock Blocker
Left of Belayers Root with a couple of moves towards the top. |
Departures (Upper)
Any rescues at this area are going to be problematic due to the steep access via rungs. Make an effort to stick clip first bolts and watch for loose rock and skulls. The popularity of this area means we all must do our best to reduce our environmental impact. Stick to established tracks, don't leave rock cairns or other track markings (it's already obvious!). Shit at home or at the servo on the way to the crag - not in the canyon. This is a National Park so absolutely no dogs, no smoking and no camp fires. Even if it's winter. NO FIRES. NO DOGS. Our ongoing access to this area is not guaranteed and depends on us looking after the place. |
Departures (Upper) |
27
★★ Lofty Lungfish
Far end of ropes with triple belay. Up short wall then out the roof cracks to turn the lip and finish up steep prow. Backjump to clean. |
29
The Gift
Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof. |
26
★ Brixton Jamm
Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux is all about some double undercling madness. Steep finish with big moves on big holds. Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 6 foot |
30
★★★ Radical Departures
One of the best routes at Departures. Another of Bell's classic 30's. After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall. |
23
★★ For Flake's Sake
The major flake feature in the middle of the wall. Same start as H.H. Some dubious rock down low then great moves from the mid height rest. |
28
★★ Hokonui Henchman
Start at big flake and head up and right over the project up the steep section to the sit down rest. Continue with trickery up the blank overhanging corner and over the thin final roof. |
Project Steve
The long term project of Steve, he's been actively trying the from time to time so you can imagine when it goes it will be the hardest route at Bell…? |
24
★★ #Ledge life
Tackle the hard and under-graded start as for Steve's project for 3 bolts, then head right and up. Ponder your position from the bird ledge then slab, yes slab moves up the sidepull flakes and victory jugs. A long draw at the base of the box roof helps the rope run. |
31
★★ Church Mouse
Mostly easy first half leads to a dyno out the lower roof (requires a long sling or 2), clip a hidden chain, then up the sustained second half with a difficult sequence in the upper roof. Best cleaned by reversing to the first anchor. |
29
★★ Grave Rat
Unusual and absolutely desperate moves through the mid-height roof. |
27
★★★ Spent Force
Awesome pumper. Face, roof, then however you like up the headwall, all the options have been done so use the holds, or don’t, whatever. |
28
★★★ Gushing Gargoyles
Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem. |
25
★ Feisty Phasmid
Weird move to get started, hard at top of wall, then the crux in the roof. |
23
★★ Destined for Grayness
Good climbing, add a grade if you crank past the anchors to jugs on the lip. |
24
★ Impatient Transport
Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts. Has a couple of thin moves and a hard clip. |
23
★ Freeway
Just left of FL starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above. |
24
★ Fridge Lifting
Funky orange radness for 3 bolts to rest, then easier pumpy jugs to the top of the cliff. |
23
★ Welcome Alex
The first two bolts of this route have been removed, do FL instead. Or a long stick clip to the third bolt. |
The Blowhole
About 50m around the corner from the last climb on Arrivals Lower. |
The Blowhole |
Routes listed R to L.
Routes listed R to L. |
24
★★ Blowtorch
Short roof to start the swing up to the wall on slopey jugs, varied climbing with a committing move up high. |
23
★ Whistle Blower
Start at juggy prow and up wall to ledge then try to find the crux holds in time. |
24
★★ Thar She Blows
A surprisingly long section of steep and juggy climbing that is fairly rough on the skin - but this might allow you to still hold on when totally pumped! |
24
★★ Body Blow
In the middle of crag. Up wall and out the roof on flakes etc before heading rightwards to finish. The climb now has permadraws and only needs quick draws for the 1st, last and anchor bolts. This is like overhung gym climbing at Bell. |
27
★★ Full Blown Frenzy
Start up Body Blow for 3 bolts then traverse left finishing at Pelorus Jack anchors |
29
★ Pelorus Jack
climb straight into frustrating roof boulder problem then head leftwards towards another hard move before exiting to anchors |
open project
Alternate start to Pelorus Jack. starts in corner on small holds for 2 rings then joins P.J. |
25
★★ Holelipstick Hippy
Start on ledge then jug leftwards and up with a slopey crux at the lip of the roof, keep pumping the jugs up the steep head wall. |
28
★ Blowpipe Blast
24 climbing to ledge then wrestle with the holds and the bad feet to the anchors. |
27
★ Bloated Blowfish
Technical hard start leads to a rest, then an even harder crux and steep finish. |
24
★★ Up.
Action packed route up the arete right of blow. Big start move then hold on through some steep moves to a ledge. Hard face moves follow then great jugs to the top. If the first move is to big then start up Blow and traverse across. |
22
★★ Blow
Popular, with a hard start that is either dynoed out right, or tackled via small holds on the left. Second half finishes up a short section of attractive rock on good holds. |
22
★★ Blow Over
The Blow extension. From the anchors of Blow - continue up and leftwards to lower off at the top of the cliff. |
22
★ Kiama
Start left of tree. Straight up till it gets easy then rightwards to shared lower off with BO. Stay left of the bolts for 22 |
The following section has some really good easier graded routes. Stays in the shade here till just
The following section has some really good easier graded routes. Stays in the shade here till just after lunch. Lots of bolts and convenience are the name of the game here! |
21
★ Perkins Paste
Bit of a thin move about 1/3 of the way up |
20
★ Araldite
Tricky start and exciting finish, there is a hidden bolt before the last move. |
17
★ Aquadhere
The lower section has some cool pockety holds. |
19
★ Aquadhere - Extended
The second last bolt on Araldite is next to the anchors on this one so you might as well keep going to the top of the cliff and clip another (hidden) bolt on the way and lower off Araldite. |
16
★ Kwik Grip
Pleasant climbing with a slightly steeper section above the little roof. |
16
★ Blow Me
Right of ferny crack; mostly straightforward with plenty of holds and a little move three quarters of the way up. |
16
★ Trad Routes Matter!
No doubt the usual crew of first ascentionists will lay claim to having done this previously. Unfortunately the fractured nature of the slab in this section leaves little in the way of redeeming features for a proper climb . . . Start below ferny crack, head up using the fracture and features either side of the cracked slab for progression and protection. Use belay of neighbouring route and top out and find a tree. Originally lead with improvised protection consisting of knotted slings and prussicks, but plenty of modern gear is available. |
15
★ Clag
The right side of the juggy orange streak. |
16
★ Blow Dry
The left side of the juggy orange streak. |
17
★ Louie Gets The Blow
A couple of moves to get started. Right of BF. |
18
★ Blow Fly
The furthest left climb at The Blowhole. Tricky start with a nice flake up high. |
Fox Hole
Any rescues at this area are going to be problematic due to the steep access via rungs. Make an effort to stick clip first bolts and watch for loose rock and skulls. The popularity of this area means we all must do our best to reduce our environmental impact. Stick to established tracks, don't leave rock cairns or other track markings (it's already obvious!). Shit at home or at the servo on the way to the crag - not in the canyon. This is a National Park so absolutely no dogs, no smoking and no camp fires. Even if it's winter. NO FIRES. NO DOGS. Our ongoing access to this area is not guaranteed and depends on us looking after the place. |
Fox Hole |
Routes listed R to L.
Routes listed R to L. |
24
★ Just Peachy
Steep start then some reachy sustained moves with an open book corner to reward the effort. |
23
★★ Mango Chutney
A few metres R of Plumtastic. Great route with a mix of difficulties. Up the wall with some welcome rests to the mini cave then try to finish. Quite engaging! |
22
★★ Plumtastic
Another steep start. Enjoyable moves the whole way, finishing on the fairly obvious overhung prow. |
24
★★ The Apricot Slot
The L-most route on the sector. Start steeply for a few bolts, then trend rightwards to the crux. Finishes just left of the upper prow the Plumtastic finishes on. |