A giant 55m single pitch straight up the face between Disco Non-Stop Party and I Have a Dream on stunning rock. Now with its own (harder) direct finish!
20 bolts, and some well-placed rollers and long runners will be crucial to mitigating rope drag.
Can be accessed from the top via Walls Lookdown, or by a bolted traverse in from near Lunch Ledge (meaning your belayer doesn't have to second you) and is equipped for ground-up ascents.
For Top Access, from the Walls Lookdown lookout at Pierces Pass, walk east down the hill (following the cliffline) towards Lunch Ledge, easily spotting the sharp-looking arete that is Disco Non-Stop Party. The rap for this route is 4m left (looking out) of the bolts at the top of the arête). Rap 55m down the route to a cosy ledge.
To access the climb from Lunch Ledge, follow the normal Lunch Ledge access track (criss-crossing the creek) until just before the track takes a turn left and heads away from the little creek. Cross the creek to the right side (looking out) via convenient logs and head towards a short vibrant brown arete. Hug the rock below the arete, continue past 2 rings (anchors for Damascus below) and move through scrub until you arrive at a single ringbolt protecting the Grade 3 traverse in front (can be backed up off old carrots).
Up from the belay via easy corner. Then straight into sustained hard moves for 6 bolts. Deviate left along horizontal break to near arête, then rising traverse back right (the "elbow") to middle of face and small stance. Directly up past more hard moves separated by jugs, following the line of bolts fairly directly (no need to wander around), to a particularly hard finale.
NOTE: A hold solely useful for aiding past the crux has since snapped. If this is your limit, consider equipping this route on abseil, and placing a long running on the bolt above the crux.
