Routes in Far North Cliffs

Climbs the Eastern side of the prominent knife-blade southern arete. Quite unique at the grade in the Blueys.

Stick clip first bolt, and start from directly below the arete. Desperate moves until past the second roof, then tenuous moves up the knife-blade arete to easy top section. Bring up second and rap-off eastern-side of the Shark's Fin, or lower off from last bolt below the topout to clean.

A short, easy crack on the shortest (north-eastern) side of the Shark's Fin. Originally done as solo-aid to gain access to the summit to install anchors.

Starts on North-Western side of The Shark's Fin at obvious clean slabby crack (with an undercut start) on far left-hand end (before vegetated chimney) which gradually steepens before becoming vegetated. Climb the crack to where the crack ends below the roof. Place some bomber pro. Swing left to gain the tree in the chimney, and bring up your second.

Alternatively use the fixed rope and 2 x raps to pull gear from the very top. Rap anchor will be installed within a month.

The extension through the roof has been cleaned, and is an open project (21/22)?

About 500m left from Climbing boom.

Start underneath small roof crack and corner, right of Coal Seam Crack. Crack to stance beneath fingercrack roof. Undercling roof to gain corner, then up corner to the top, with a vegetated topout.

Rap off tree to the right (facing in).

So named because Rob chipped his tooth whilst abseiling through the jungle trees shortly after the ascent.

20m left of COALgate smile, the obvious R facing corner with a super exposed off-width roof.

1. 20m climb corner to stance beneath roof. Some dodey rock but pro is reasonable.

2. 20m Aid through roof and crack above, and free up small offwidth section.

Rap off as for (COALgate smile).

20m further L from Coal Seam crack is this prominent line under a huge finger crack roof. Pitch 2 will blow your mind. A real classic. Bring a rack of cams 0.3 - 5, with doubles (or triples, if this is close to your limit) of 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 and 0.75. Wires are optional.

1. 15m (19) - Crux. Climb the tight chimney come hand crack to ledge beneath roof (chimney needs a camalot #5).

2. 30m (19) - Climb steep corner, traverse under roof, and continue up finger-crack headwall to ledge (many finger crack sized cams are needed). To reduce rope drag (caused by the rope dropping into the crack on the lip of the traverse), you may wish to set up a semi-hanging belay at the end of the roof traverse in Pitch 2 (requires #0.3, #0.4 and/or wires).

Stay roped up to traverse right and belay at the top of coal seam crack.

Rap off as for COALgate smile.