Routes as aid in Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd

Start about 1/2 hr walk left (facing out) from the final abseil in David Crevasse.

P1, P2 and P3 40m+ (16) Various starts over scrubby ledges get to the start of the real cliff. The original way was mainly rock on P1 and P2 (about grade 16). This could not be found on the second ascent.

(Main Cliff)

P4 20m (17) Up R facing corner onto scrubby ledge. Great pro to tree belay.

P5 25m (19) Up Lefthand layback corner, making detour onto R face when corner is choked with dirt. Technical and scary mantle, then delicate traverse back L to corner. Up to big ledge. Move R and easily up to scrub belay.

P6 30m (15) Up R facing corner with care (loose flake above belay) to obvious traverse line. Traverse R to arete then up a few more meters to belay.

P7 50m (5) Scramble and scrub bash (one tricky section - stay roped up) to clean ledge underneath roofs on the R.

(Walk ~50m R, underneath roofs, to obvious way up, just before the ledge runs out. There is a log book left here.)

P8 30m (15M1) 2 points of aid (large cams) to get through offwidth roof, then up lovely wall and corner on great holds. (Awesome exposure!!). Belay on tiny ledge at top of corner.

P9 30m (10) R and up the great corner on the slab. Great pro, rock and exposure. At top move R and onto scrubby ledge. Good cams below next corner for the belay.

P10 15m (12) Up corner and R face (some loose rock) to belay on rock bollard.

Walk R, underneath the large roofs until the first weakness is reached

P11 30m (13) Onto R wall, using suspect flake and directly up (Not much pro and sickening exposure!) to ledges. Move up and R to the obvious escape gully. Huge tree belay.

Walk up the L side of the gully and surmount one tricky section (roped).

Walk due north until you hit the road - scrub from hell unavoidable....

Hayden Brotchie, Dave Duke 2/5/99.

Test your nerve and skill on this little big wall in the Grose Valley.

Gear: Double rack of cams from #0.3 to #4. You could probably do it with a single #4, but two is nice. Small cams including #0.1. Wide cam hooks. Wires from tiny to thin-hands size. Pitons from 5mm to 7mm (for the time being). Hammer. Aid ladders and daisys. Jumars. It is possible to bail from the top of pitch 3 if you have two 60m ropes.

1. As for P1 of Samarkand

2. (23) Do the Samarkand "boulder problem" but turn left when you reach the break. After traversing a few metres, go upwards to reach the base of a 3m high block of choss (Dave Tower). Climb up the corner on the left side of the block to get on top of it. Be careful: you will stand on a detached stone slab which could overbalance and go over the edge. Do not put too much weight on the outside edge of the slab! Belay from gear in corner crack and one carrot.

3. (21) Climb up the corner crack for about 8m, then clip a carrot and move up-and-left onto the face. After climbing upwards another ~8m you will reach a layback flake with a small finger-size space behind it. Climb this to reach a horizontal break with a ring bolt. Belay here. Several traumatic experiences were had on this pitch before it was cleaned up. Death blocks have now been removed and one carrot added.

4. (A2+) The Great Roof. Aid carefully up the corner with gear behind thin flakes before getting some good cams in. It's worth taking a #4 if you have one to spare. Do some cam hook moves to get up to and around the rooflet to reach a carrot under the big roof. Aid through the roof crack on knifeblade pitons (which may or may not be there already, and may or may not blow) until you can start to use clean gear. The FA was done with 3 pitons, so please do try to use clean gear as soon as it is available rather than continuing to nail. Continue to the end of the roof crack, then proceed upwards a few metres in the crack to reach a ledge ~1m wide (Camp IV). Make an anchor using a carrot backed up onto two fixed pitons in the corner. The second will need to re-aid to clean the roof. If you're hauling, it's best to haul from the ground to here. A 60m rope is too short for that, but a 70 might make it.

5. (24) Changing Corners. Beware of rope drag. Climb left and up a couple of metres from the belay to reach a break. Traverse left in the break using big cams as pro and mantle onto the ledge at the corner. Climb the corner crack and then on jugs for a few metres, then reach right onto the face and clip a carrot. Traverse right, then climb upwards and clip a RB. Climb up the corner and arete (crux). A #3 cam can be used as pro above the crux. Continue upwards onto the face and climb fairly easily up to the ledge and belay from two RBs.

6. (23) Move right to the hanging arete, then climb upwards (two RBs) to a ledge. Put gear in, then climb another couple of metres up (tricky). Now climb the crack to the top. There is a crux about 2/3 of the way up where the crack is fused. Above that the rock quality and gear is not A+. Belay from two RBs in the rooflet.

It's not really a pitch, but you will have to belay a leader as they traverse left on the ledge (2RBs) to reach the cave. Belay the second from a big rock in the cave. If you're hauling, you'll need to manhandle the gear across this ledge too, possibly in multiple trips.

Pull thru on gear on first pitch and go up escape gully to avoid choss at the end of pitch 8.

70m right of Reach For the Earth at a chimney and crack on the left edge of the red Breakaway wall