Showing all 13 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Lost Pillar | |||||
13 | ★★ Bendy Banana Chimney
First pitch of first(?) ascent route of 'The Lost Pillar'. Start at DBB next to big block in high point of notch on Pillar side. Follows chimney (good pro) between precariously balanced banana shape block and Pillar to block perched on top, DBB on block or good natural gear belay on ledge below upper wall. Rap to notch off DBB. FA: Tony Williams/Nora Adam/ Josh Dodson, 2003 | 20m | |||
12 | Original Way Up
2nd pitch of original route up Pillar. From top of Bendy Banana Chimney head up diagonally left up cracks and blocks to double ring anchors and top of Pillar. FA: Josh Dodson/ Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2003 | 20m | |||
15 | ★★★ Sherpa's Revolt
Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams right to arete of Lost Pillar and up to 'diving board' block. Great exposure and views. Belay bolts are the rap station rings at top of pillar. Sign the Log Book, Rap down Josh's pitch. FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004 | 20m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★ Gundu
Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams on left side of upper tier and up to 'diving board' block. Belay station is the rap station (double rings) at top of Lost Pillar. 20m rap to 'Bendy Banana block' or 50m to notch (hard rope pull). FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004 | 20m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★★ Wafer Thin Fin
1
21
35m
2
22
18m
3
23
18m
One of the most novel routes in the country up an extraordinary natural feature that redefines the term knife blade arete. No amount of hyperbole will prepare you for the first sight of this exposed prow on a remote tower. Imagine 'Flake Crack' but without the main wall and 70m high. You can even hang your arm through holes in the arete in several places! Rock quality is generally pretty poor but it's all about position, position, and position! Protection is good, generally on solid ring bolts and occasionally on fixed slings/rope tied through holes in the arete. Although technically this is a sport route be prepared for large amounts of rope admin - bring jumars, lots of biners and helmets. Have an escape plan if it all goes wrong and the tower falls down. Rap-in The route is located on the south east arete of the Lost Pillar on Dalpura Head. Locate 2 x ringbolts (no longer carrots) on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate pillar!). It's a 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option). It's recommended you re-belay at one of two DBBs. The first hanging DBB is slightly above the top of the pillar and is used for the tyrolean exit. The second DBB is on a ledge 15m below the top of the pillar with some vegetation, a small swing to the left, recommended for the bounce exit. Pick your re-belay and finish rapping straight down into the gully. Scramble down a few metres to the line of ring bolts traversing left for the first pitch. Stick clip the first bolt (optionally, belay off the rap rope, or off some slung sandstone) to avoid a bad fall off the ledge on the opening moves. Climbing
Exit options Scramble to true summit 5m away and locate double rings on west facing block. The Bounce (recommended) The simplest but most exciting. Rap 15m between main wall and pillar, then kick with all your might to sail across the void. Grab your rap line and pull onto the ledge. The rope will only be close enough to grab if you re-belayed on the vegetated ledge. The Welsh Dragon Rap 30m down to western lower tiers of pillar to a 2 x carrot belay (visible from top, has in-situ gear to facilitate next abseil (!) ), and rap another 30m back to the start gully. From the gully, either jumar back up the fixed ropes, or climb Welsh Dragon (shady) or The Opposition (harder and sun after 1pm). The Tyrolean It's also possible to tyrolean off the top of the pillar (avoiding the first 70m of jumaring) by towing the end of the fixed abseil rope behind you up the climb and diagonal ascending up to the re-belay anchors. Look up how to set it up! FA: Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas, 2008 | 71m, 3 | |||
23 | Lost Crack
Major direct corner system on the south west side of the pillar. All trad, and done ground up in the finest possible style (if you disregard nude soloing).
FFA: Adrian Lang & Mike Law, 2009 | 110m, 4 | |||
18 M1 | Josh's Big Trad Line
Attempt at major line on the south face. First ascent involved some minor aid, which was subsequently freed 5 years later by Ado and Mike. Finish as for 'Bendy Banana Chimney' then 'Original Way Up' finish.
FA: Josh Dodson & Tany, 2004 | 60m, 2 | |||
Dalpura Wall | |||||
23 M1 | ★★ I Scream and Grapple Sky
Four varied pitches - and one stopper move on pitch three which has yet to be climbed free. Start: Rap in from sling around bollard above 'End of Days'. All raps are diagonally rightwards (looking in), and will require some "redirection" to reach the start of the route. Best to fix 100m rope, and redirect it through several bolts to ensure you don't end up stranded in space, to the belay at the end of Pitch 1. From here, rap 30m on the lead rope to the left edge of the starting ledge (keep up a swing to ensure you land on the ledge!). Alternatively use double ropes and rap down 35m, 15m, 40m, 30m. It is highly recommended that you bring Cams #0.4 - #1 for the starting crack (and belay), as the first bolt is REALLY high.
FA: Neil Monteith, Jesse Lomas (P1, P2 & P3), 2008 FA: Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas (P4), 2008 | 130m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ End of Days
Not the usual Bluies jug haul. Bring a cut-down trad rack - double cams to handcrack size and no wires. Named in memory of Nick Kaz, who was killed on the same day as this route was established. Start: Rap descent as for I Scream.
FFA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes (Alt Leads), 2008 | 120m, 5 | |||
27 | Jocation
A big arete. Start: Locate the top of the Lost Pillar. Scramble down and abseil off 3BB below cairn 10m west of Lost Pillar. Take about 16 bolt plates and 2 ropes, rap down 50m and pull ropes, rap bottom pitch on single fixed to vegetated ledge about 15m from the ground.
FA: FA: Mikl Law, Fronkie Huster & Ness Peterson, 2000 FFA: Mikl & Ness, 2002 | 100m, 2 | |||
19 M1 | ★ Welsh Dragon
Face climbing up large black wall opposite the Lost Pillar. Bolted with spaced glue-in carrots - you will need at least 11 bolt plates. Total shade until very late in the day. From Dalpura Head, locate 2 x Ringbolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!). It's 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option), or you can do 2 x 50m abseils by swinging left (looking in) and re-belaying at an interim set of rap anchors (at almost the same height as the summit of the Pillar). Rap straight down the notch between the pillar and the Main Wall and scramble up the gully to the start of the route.
FA: Tony Williams, Nora Adam & Josh Dodson (P2-4), 2003 FA: Tony Williams (P1), 2006 | 88m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ The Opposition
Gripping arete which offers a good three pitch escape when finished with the Lost Pillar. This is technically a sport route, but there are some runouts (especially off the belays) and chossy rock in sections which means you want to be solid at this grade to attempt this route. The one repeat of this route has also suggested an upgrade to grade 24. This route gets sun after 1pm so slip, slop and slap. 14 draws and 8 brackets. Start: First major arete 50m to right (north) of the Lost Pillar and 5m left of Crankenstien. To get to the start either rap down 'Welsh Dragon' and trash through the thick bush or rap direct down the route. The top of the climb is at the bottom of a major gully 50m right of the double bolts above 'Welsh Dragon'. There is a set of double BRs on a ledge at the top, rig a couple of slings and rap into the unknown.
FFA: Neil Monteith (all leads) & Ben Van Balen, 2009 | 95m, 3 | |||
24 | ★ Crankenstein
An impressive looking arete - but the route tends to climb mostly on the face well to the right side of the arete. This route is bolted with old-school bash-in rusty carrots with no hangers and should be treated with caution. The route may have only had two ascents as of 2021 - rock is quite fragile. The topo diagram on this page is not accurate regarding the bolt count and number of bolts on rap points. Bring a single set of cams from finger to hand size to beef up anchors and backup some of the crustier bolts. Take care and bring plenty of bolt plates. Approach by walking down steep gully 50m to the east of the top of Wafer Thin Fin. At bottom of gully walk left along narrow ledge for 20m to top of route. Look for single rusty carrot on flat top. This bolt marks the top of the rap down point but not the top of the route. Backup single bolt up with finger sized cam in break 3m behind it. Fix rope and rap down wall 30m to double carrot bolt belay and loose hillside. Fix a 70m+ to these bolts and rap down hillside and then down route to base of wall. It's best to clip into a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the wall. Give the holds a scrub whilst your at it - they will be dirty!
FA: Mike Stacey & Steve Moon, 1999 | 110m, 3 |
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