Rope solo to suss out the gear for the proper trad ascent... similarly to the other route here I'd pegged this as a trad route the first time I saw it, although there were some definite vegetation issues that would have needed sorting...
Given that the major crag developer had walked past it for over 2 years and figured it was trad, or an unnecessary sport route (with vegetation issues) I unfortunately figured it would be 'safe' for a little while, given the overarching Blue Mountains ethics of "Don't Bolt Cracks! or potential trad lines" and "Don't Remove Vegetation!".
Fail to see why the rung is at all necessary, for a 'sport belay' a U would have sufficed, and as to it protecting from wet shoes(?) if the 'bottom of the route is running with water'...!?, well maybe one should simply deal with it being wet or wait until it is in better condition... As it is currently, it sets a pretty poor example...
Seems to have adequate gear for the length of the corner crack, and beyond, so will certainly be continuing to try it as trad route... Had to leave a small wire that was hard to get on the way back down ... and a first stick-clipped wire and liner to lower off... Please leave them alone...
Rope solo of the initial steep section to suss out the gear... As expected, from the first viewing of this route before it got bolted, there is heaps with various options...
Can place a whole rack of Totems (plus a bomber #3) so I cannot see why this should have ever been bolted ...
Bwah! Tough! One attempt after Neilio's Knee-popping, Black Diamond cussing First Ascent. Ludicrously steep, with the hardest moves protected by stonker gear. Though I eventually sorted out almost all of the roof section, there was a single move at the crux that I couldn't touch despite a great deal of effort. Super burly and punchy feature climbing through the roof, an engaging and desperatelip turn, then a brilliantsteep incipient flake feature to the anchor. Appropriately equipped. Rock quality is mixed, but the quality of the climbing outweighs it, and I genuinely enjoyed this. Disappointed that I couldn't solve the roof puzzle, though.
Two goes with Neils gear in. Second shot linked from the last bolt at the start through the crux to the top, thus figuring out how I would place the crux gear on a redpoint burn. Super duper awesome and unique feature for the mountains. It was properly cold though and the rain was atmospheric.
Given that the major crag developer had walked past it for over 2 years and figured it was trad, or an unnecessary sport route (with vegetation issues) I unfortunately figured it would be 'safe' for a little while, given the overarching Blue Mountains ethics of "Don't Bolt Cracks! or potential trad lines" and "Don't Remove Vegetation!".
Fail to see why the rung is at all necessary, for a 'sport belay' a U would have sufficed, and as to it protecting from wet shoes(?) if the 'bottom of the route is running with water'...!?, well maybe one should simply deal with it being wet or wait until it is in better condition... As it is currently, it sets a pretty poor example...
Seems to have adequate gear for the length of the corner crack, and beyond, so will certainly be continuing to try it as trad route... Had to leave a small wire that was hard to get on the way back down ... and a first stick-clipped wire and liner to lower off... Please leave them alone...