Take an 80m rope. Anything shorter will not make the rap in comfortable. Take vague trail out toward Carne wall from near top of hill before carpark, for about 20min , turning left towards cliff around burnt tree when trail begins going into saddle and dissapearing. Continue along top of cliff line for another 15min. A large red cliff will appear and cliff edge will lead down toward a watercourse and a lower large rock platform with an anchor on it and also a rap station just right of corner. These are for Lest we Forget. (Though both abseil's can be used to access base) Looking out on the LEFT of corner there is an elevated ledge a few meters wide with a rap station. Rapping 40m from here brings you to the belay between pitch 2 and 3. Make sure to clip rap lines into fixed cold shut on the way down to redirect towards belay. From here rap another 35 meters twice to ground.
A great North facing well bolted multi , just a standard 17xshort draws is fine.
Grade 24 , 35mtr, 17 bolts. Brilliant sustained arette. More like a pumpy 23 but gets an upgrade as the only way is up. Preclip first draw and establish yourself on first hold with the help of a rung. Easy to get wrong handed on first move.. then spicy sustained climbing with very rewarding holds.
Grade 21 , 40mtr , 16 bolts. Out and up , a chain protects the choss band , do what you need to do and continue.
Grade 22 , 35mtr , 16 bolts. Up to a long move from underclings at fourth bolt , then over and work straight upthe arette with conviction (dont go too far on right). Then an enjoyable journey out over the void to large ledge. Use bolt at base of next pitch to back up bolt near edge for belay.
Grade 16 , 10mtr , 6 bolts. Unremarkable. Walk off left from final anchor. It is also fine to abseil down LwF to access this route.
Route faces north. Good in cold temps. Rap chains are on a boulder close to edge, about 5 meters back left along large ledge. Abseil 35mtr to semihanging belay/rapchain in small overhang. Abseil another 25 mtr to next rapchains on face below large ledge, this requires a pendulum to the right. Abseil 35mtr to large ledge. Route starts in corner to right looking in.
Bring a single rack up to #5 Camalot, doubles in #0.4 to #2, 12 short draws, four alpine draws. No boltplates.
35mtr, 20. Up wide thrutchy crack, continue up corner, using left face when neccesary.
30mtr, 24. Mostly a sport pitch. Step right from belay then sustained climbing past bolts. Traverse way left, passing a small corner into steep juggy terrain, eventually placing an assortment of cams and wires working up left side of feature that you abseiled off on way down. Large cams unneccesary on this pitch. Semihanging belay.
35mtr, 21. Another opportunity to use #5 cam straight off belay, then up (reachy) to endless ironstone edges and cam breaks. Doubles in small/med sizes a must for this long pitch. Either finish relatively direct after final bolt (tree belay) or continue veering left to far left edge of face. (Dub)
