Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 27th May 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Pebble Pundits
- with
rickau
4
22
35
lead by
rickau
Pulled on draws, ropes, jugged up. Just wanted to get out of there after that rock incident. | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
22 | ★★ Lulu - with Jeh C | 30m, 14 | |||||
Had to aid through just after the roof.
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21 | ★★★ Pebble Pundits - with Jeh C | 110m | |||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Lulu - with james ritchie | 30m, 14 | |||||
The moves to gain the face below the roof, and the moves out of the roof, felt quite hard for the grade.
We climbed it as an exit pitch to Pebble Pundits. It was less than ideal to be on this in full sun with a double rack of gear on the waist. That aside, it earns the stars for the very techy, crimpy, sequence dependent arete climbing. It was sick! |
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21 | ★★★ Pebble Pundits - with james ritchie | 110m | |||||
A spectacular line on the outmost edge of the ampitheatre, one of the best locations in the Grose.
I led P1 and P3, James led P2. Occasionally mixed rock quality in places (I blew a hold at the top of P2), but pretty good gear all the way. You can jam, layback, or jug haul up the steepness. Mega day out. |
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Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
25 |
★★ Charlie Don't Surf P2
2
| 70m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It is what it is. Pretty sustained, just hung in there for the os.
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a line. Excellent climbing in a stunning location, with the most stonking gear I've placed in the 'Mountains.
We bailed onto Charlie Don't Surf instead of continuing up the dripping second pitch. |
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25 |
★★ Charlie Don't Surf
- with
Aaron Jones
| 28m, 18 | |||||
p2 only as exit to Thin Line. Harder than the crack pitch.
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24 |
★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve P1
- with
Aaron Jones
1
| 38m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Accessed via 80m rap and swing. p1 onsight, then rapped and stripped the gear for Azza's flash. Really fantastic pitch of climbing. Rather than p2 which was wet and vegetated, climbed p2 of Charlie Don't Surf which was actually harder than p1.
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
26 | ★★ Charlie Don't Surf | 70m, 18 | ★ Good | ||||
Some crazy French-free climbing going on to get up this with a pulley injury whilst it’s dripping all over.
Not much to say about the route, seemed like some fun sequences, But I’m disgusted with the amount of glue on this route. Apparently we’re now manufacturing climbs on the rock |
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24 ~23 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Lives up to the hype, and now takes first place for best gear route I’ve done. The movement, the position, the gear, the rock. It’s all perfect (1st pitch only, T&Cs apply).
Seth took the lead so that I wasn’t tempted to push myself on the injured finger, but I think I almost preferred the toprope lap (please don’t hold it against me). It meant that I could just cruise up the perfect line, enjoying the movement without having to think about what might come next, and without stopping constantly for gear. There’s no way it goes at 24, and I think it might also go entirely on passive gear, so might give it a crack next time I’m out here. Top pitch was absolutely drippingly soaked, so we topped out on the bolted line adjacent (also wet). 10/10, do this route. |
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21 ~22 | ★★★ Pebble Pundits | 110m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did it in 2 pitches, which meant I got to climb the entire length of the thing without stopping!
Crux is definitely the top pitch. The money pitch is awesome, but only 20, maybe 21. |
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Mon 26th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
19 |
★★ Lord of the Balrogs
1
2
Unexpectedly broke a footer while in a comfortable stem and fell through the splits! | 55m | |||||
Definitely chosen rock and some vegetation to fight but cool climbing and heaps of gear options
|
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Mon 29th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
21 ~20 |
★★★ Pebble Pundits
- with
Lewis Foster
1
2
3
4
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lews birthday adventure, swinging leads. Phyced that there is a very unlikely crack that runs up the arete, really enjoyed this one from bottom to top. I think the grade on this will scare alot of people away.
Gear was great imo and rock was also quite good.
Lulu was the surprise! Crack fu turns into arete hugging pretty quick!
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
19 | ★★ Call Out Culture | 95m | |||||
Rad line, lil bitta choss here and there but the trad flowz and airy position make up for it. Linked with upper south bowens canyon for a full day of bushbashing and onsighting
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
19 |
★★ Call Out Culture
- with
james hockey
1
16
15
2
18
45
3
19
35
lead by
james hockey
| 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
21 ~20 | ★★★ Pebble Pundits | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A great fun route. Very cruisy for 23, the grade might scare some people off. Super unique wih a crack on arete. Highly recommended! Go learn what crack-fu is.
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21 ~20 | ★★★ Pebble Pundits | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My stoke meter was going off the scale on the second pitch. A unique line dissecting the arete with a series of thin flakes scoops and cracks. This geomorphological masterpiece deserves its place the blue mountains trad renaissance gallery. Climbs comfortably on a double rack, the position and the line are excellent and the rap-in is quite well described. I’ve definitely climbed a few 20’s harder than this . Go do it!
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
19 |
★★ Call Out Culture
1
19
50
2
19
30
3
0
| 80m | |||||
Excellent route, a bit chossy at the start( I broke a footer after first few meters) but well protected. Pretty comfortably climbed on a standard rack. With some creative nut placements big cams are not necessary, extenders are a must. Did it as 2 pitches, belaying at the bolts. Both pitches felt of similar difficulty
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Mon 20th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with james ritchie | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great climb with quite hard cruxy sections for me
, but then I don’t get in the mountains that much at the moment. Good gear all the way.
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Ben Taylor | 75m | |||||
Excellent route. Managed to get all the moves but had a fall after burning out on the first crux. Then needed to take a rest before heading out under the main roof (a few hand puddles up there).
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23 | ★★ Monteith Memorial Traverse - with Ben Taylor | 12m | |||||
Just aided through - to access Thin Line of Reprieve.
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26 | ★★ Charlie Don't Surf - with Ben Taylor | 70m, 18 | |||||
2nd pitch only as a finish to Thin Line of Reprieve.
Started off ok but quickly realised I didn't have enough energy left.
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Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
27 |
★★ Dialectic - Best Forgotten Art P2
- with
Hamish Kerr
2
| 70m | Average | ||||
I thought I was on Hornet but I found myself unknowingly on the top half of the top pitch of this. It's currently dirty, unchalked and thin. Not the cruisy end to the day we were seeking.
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22 | ★★ The Hornet - with Hamish Kerr | 45m | ★ Good | ||||
Cool hollow flake but also scary hollow flake. The roof pull seemed a bit tough for 22 but I squeaked through. The rest just got harder and harder until I rested on the rope as I was red lining. It turns out I was actually on the top pitch of Dialectic - which was why it felt way hard for 22.
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26 |
★★ Charlie Don't Surf P2
- with
Hamish Kerr
2
| 70m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second pitch only as an exit to Thin Line of Reprieve. Another great pitch of climbing! Cool sequences between rests.
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24 ~23 |
★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve P1
- with
Hamish Kerr
1
| 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a fucking route. The 24 pitch only - mega well protected climbing the whole way! Way excellent and pretty stoked for the onsight (if you don't count not being blindfolded for the abseil in).
If you're looking for beta - it's not that hard. Plenty of bridging - my right calf was pretty pumped half way up. I took the full suggested rack plus 15 draws. I was left with 12 draws, almost all my nuts, and a single each of 0.3 to 2 by the anchor. Take a couple of sling draws, a couple of regular draws and leave the rest at home. |
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Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
21 ~21 |
★★★ Pebble Pundits
- with
Lachlan Anderson
1
2
3
4
| 110m | ★ Good | ||||
Was ok, gear was the hardest part, rock quality a bit low
|
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24 |
★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve
— 4 attempts
- with
Lachlan Anderson
1
2
| 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
In running with evolution for the best 24 in Australia!
Same quality as conquistador but with mega location!
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Mon 28th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
22 | ★★ Lulu - with Dave Cook, Sausage | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One fall at the roof again, then took it to the top and sat in the beautiful sunshine! Note: mind your temper tantrums dropping onsights, it doesn’t actually matter
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22 | ★★ Lulu - with Dave Cook, Sausage | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found a great zone after the 2nd bolt, felt great going for the roof then broke a hold out right and lost the onsight with the jug in view 😩 I lost all confidence after a few more falls and lowered down
|
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22 |
★★★ Pebble Pundits
- with
Dave Cook, Sausage
1
2
3
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route, cool movement in an amazing location! Although I didn’t lead the crux, I found it no harder than Janicepts! Perfectly built in seat below Lulu
|
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24 |
★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve P1
- with
Dave Cook, Sausage
1
| 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Just an incredible experience, what a crazy place! Coming back from injury, I wasn’t in the best form, happy to just spend time with friends (2-3sits?) Keen to come back and lead this thing soon
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Highlight of the day was watching Kelly dig deep for the pink point! We both fought for it. Such an awesome route
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mega mega mega mega. Will be back for the ground up!
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Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Rollacoasta | 75m | |||||
Sent it on my third trip to the area and on the fourth go overall. Very inspiring line and one of the best trad climbs in the blue mountains (probably best corner climb) very happy to break into the grade on this one.
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | |||||
Sat 18th Feb 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
26 | ★★ Charlie Don't Surf - with Simmo, alyssa smirnov, Jared Anderson | 70m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Decided to try linking the Monteith Memorial Traverse (L-R 24) into P1 of this for a 50m enduro-monster (belayed from the cozy ledge). Turns out it's okay with some rope management, but quite the undertaking!
I found P1 of this very tough placing the draws, and absent chalk, though all of the moves went okay (ableit with a few exciting falls to piece them together). If I'm back here belaying people on Thin Line, I'll probably try for this linkup as an arbitrary challenge. |
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23 ~24 | ★★ Monteith Memorial Traverse - with Simmo, alyssa smirnov, Jared Anderson | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Decided to try linking this traverse into P1 of Charlie Don't Surf (26) for a 50m enduro-monster (belayed from the cozy ledge). Turns out it's okay with some rope management, but quite the undertaking!
This traverse is super techo and balancy, and quite hard when unchalked and absent beta. |
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Simmo, alyssa smirnov, Jared Anderson | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Clean repeat. So much fun! A great warmup, and just what the doc ordered after a rather trying week.
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Wed 11th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with adam demmert | 75m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Felt really comfortable with the rope above me, but probably would have failed an onsight attempt given I just haven’t switched on my trad brain for months. Hopefully will get back to lead it soon. Props to Ella for waiting patiently in the cave
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Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
26 |
★★ Charlie Don't Surf
- with
Rollacoasta, Dmitry Linkov
2
Pitch 2 only. Found it hard for 24 but what do I know 😊 Enjoyed a lot those desperate but sweet moves. What a place and exposure! | 70m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 12th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 |
★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve (The Thin Line of Reprieve P1)
- with
Anton Korsun
1
24
75m
| 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Had a great time on this - such a beautiful location and more funky climbing than it initially let on. Lead through Anton's gear on my first try since I wasn't game enough to hop on the hardest trad climb I'd tried and pump myself off the wall fumbling with gear. Stoked that I got the redpoint on the next shot - thanks Anton for all the gear beta. And a lot of the climb beta. And the approach beta. Was sick to see Anton send this on his final shot after barely recovering from the day's worth of pump
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Patrick Chambers | 75m | |||||
Absolutely emptied the tank on this one. Last shot of the day, climbing into wild pump followed by foot slip after foot slip. Haven’t tried that hard in a while, and it’s the longest I’ve taken to do a 24 this year, but happy to get it done.
Also got to watch Pat double-icecream in much better style, which was rad. |
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Name Changers - with Tim M-S | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Stellar first pitch. Second pitch marred by grey rock that doesn’t inspire a lot of confidence. Surely some of the crucial holds will break.
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19 | ★★ Call Out Culture - with Tim M-S | 95m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The rock is mostly good despite the description. Really enjoyable climbing.
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Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
19 | ★★ Call Out Culture - with Jeh | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome but also scary. Still a fair amount of crumbly rock.
Can do without #5's but take triples of .75, 1, 2.
At least 12 slings.
I led pitch 2 and 3.
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | |||||
Literally fell out of a rest. Pretty embarrassing. Almost hands free, one sequence from victory… then feet free as well 😢
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Thu 6th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 38m | |||||
Fantastic! A bit gripping on the first lap without gear beta.
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
1st go it went 🤓
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Mon 14th Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a route!! Definitely got suspanked and loved it too. Beautiful piece of adventure between good quality placements. Keen to come back for another go. Top pitch was soaked so we jugged out
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Wed 26th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 |
★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve
- with
Paul Frothy Thomson
1
24
75m
2
| 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
I was longing to get back on this one since my failed onsight attempt few years ago. This is an amazing line with great climbing set in a stunning area. World class. Thanks to Paul for a great day out
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Sun 26th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Martin Cankov | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeat attempt lap for EOD training - Not clean today. Still spooge on this as well, but at least this is more fun and less sketchy when its bad connies.
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★★★ Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Martin Cankov | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
2 Redpoint burns. Worst conditions I've had here yet, and probably my worst laps on this in months. Quite frustrating. Slimed off at the worst point and took the scariest fall possible on this route. After that, I didn't have much psyche for another lap.
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Fri 24th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) | 80m | |||||
Mon 20th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Michael Moore, Nathan Kenny, Matt King, Paul Frothy Thomson | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 5 - I never thought I would have to queue for a line at Banks Ampitheatre For some reason there was a christmas party and a bunch of punters on the ledge hogging the classics! ahaha
Thanks legends for coming to checkout the beer garden! A highlight was watching Michael Moore rip a block off thin line and take a big old whip. Also in the heat I got a high point! |
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Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Matt King, Match, Nathan Kenny, Michael Moore | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Clean repeat. Climbed on Michael's gear to exit the crag (and strip the route) at the end of the day.
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★★★ Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Match, Nathan Kenny, Matt King, Michael Moore | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Day 4: 3 more shots, but apparently 30 degree weather isn't ideal for climbing the hardest you've climbed. Probably had my 2nd best effort so far, despite this.
Still haven't managed to link the entire upper section in one, though |
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27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Match, Nathan Kenny, Matt King | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just having a play on the lower crux sequences, really awesome moves.
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Match, Nathan Kenny, Matt King | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Man oh man what a journey. Just decided to rack up and go for it. Worked out the moves, took a big winger, so rad. Keen to come back and work it
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27 |
★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing)
1
27
25m
2
3
| 25m | |||||
Bolt to bolt figuring out all the moves
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27 |
★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing)
1
27
25m
2
3
| 25m | |||||
Fell at the crux, maybe 3-4 sits total. Pretty freakin awesome, absolutely no filler climbing.
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Tue 14th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Luke Hef | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 4 on this project.
Paul was nowhere to be seen however my Knight in shining armour Luke Hef was there to catch me! Considerable links today! Nearly sent the v6 17 hand move Crux Then just links all over the top section |
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Took one fall at my redpoint crux, moving above the tricam. Must remember to place the left foot properly in the crack.
Still a good hard shot at it. Guess it will need one more.
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27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) | 80m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bolt to bolt dogging. Hard. But hey, its above my pay grade at this point. Interesting to try hard things
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★★★ Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Gavin | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
3 more shots. No new highpoint, but made it through the crux of Life Without Meaning all 3 times (best ratio yet), and refined the moves on the Two Nobodies traverse.
Last week I thought I fell off from the top bolt on link cause I was tired at the end of a long day... Today I learned that I fell off because its hard to have much oomph for those final moves at the end of such intense climbing, regardless of how fit you're feeling. Linking that top move will be haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaard. |
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Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
19 | ★★ Call Out Culture - with Lucy | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Seconding Lucy on her Birthday multipitch. Linked Pitches 1 and 2 into a MegaPitch™ at about 45m in length, and to a more obvious belay.
We felt that an abundance of Large Cams was overkill (more #1's and lots of slings seemed a better option), but we wished we'd brought more Micros for the top of the 3rd pitch (we had 3). A fun adventure, with lots of Old Skool moves, but some major sections of rubbish rock. Pitch 2 and the top of Pitch 3 were the highlights. NOTE: Even after multiple weeks of torrential rain, only the top 8m or so of this get wet! |
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Sun 5th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
x4 shots with great linkage!
I guess I will be back here next weekend as it is so daym good. |
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Sat 4th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
★★★ Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Match | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
3 more shots. On my last shot of the day, in spoogy conditions, I managed to link all the way to the last bolt before falling off... Took a 12m fall as a result, but damn it was awesome fun!
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Match | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Repeat. Only to half height to retrieve a stuck cam from last weekend, but I then downclimbed on lead all the way through the bottom crux clean as well, so I'm logging an ascent
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Sun 28th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Jared Anderson | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Clean repeat - EOD Pinkpoint lap to facilitate retrieving Marty Doolan 's in situ gear.
Man, sport trad is fun. |
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★★★ Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Jared Anderson, Marty Doolan | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
2 shots. Refamiliarising with the top half of One Somebody, and sussing how this will go with rope drag and associated shenanigans.
Maybe the best pure resistance route of this grade in the Blueys? Unrelenting. |
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Sun 21st Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | |||||
Sat 20th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Match, Gavin | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
P1 Clean repeat. Great to retick this in only a day, and some less-than-ideal conditions. x3 laps to score the retick. Really fun technical power-endurance climbing.
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Match, Gavin | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Another clean repeat, this time seconding Gavin on his successful pink-point. Dreeeeeeeamy
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27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
X3 shots today.
All moves free! And some great linkage It's all about the Gamey Egyptian 🇪🇬 Proper outrageous climbing. |
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Not as desperate as i worried, and nice movement all the way. Took some nerves and dogging to get up it in the first place. But went quite alright on the pink point shot. Will have to come back for the proper redpoint.
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Wed 17th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Stephen Varney | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
EOD cool-down lap over a year since I was last on it. Bloody great climbing, and was psyched to get quite a bit of linkage despite the lack of chalk, and half-remembered beta.
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28 | FA ★★★ Life Without Meaning - with Stephen Varney | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Day 12, sent 2nd redpoint shot today. Finally, after struggling with conditions, weather, injuries, belayer mutinies ( ), and some hideously unlucky throw-away laps, I managed to keep it together despite a really inopportune foot slip, and score the FA. At the top I started shaking, and and had to RAWR the rock into submission for the final moves. This is one of only a handful of times I've ever celebrated on a Send. One of my top 3 lines I've ever put up for sure.
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Sat 13th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 11: Just the one redpoint burn before bailing from the worst conditions I'e ever had. After all the rain the waterfall was pumping, but the 80kmph gusting winds were blowing said waterfall all over the route, and the belay.
On my one burn I powered through the crux like a boss, only to have an epic clipping at the end of the sideways runout due to clipping hold being proper wet. After this I went from below this sequence to the anchor. I just seriously need a bit of luck out here. |
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Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Three goes with Paul. Best effort nearly took me to the lie down slot. Has probably the best jump in the mountains, or at least the best one at a moderate grade. Psyched to come back!
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28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Will Vidler | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 10 - 4 more redpoint burns, new highpoint on the jug one move from the no hands rest, on my last shot of the day, pumped to oblivion and unable to finish it off. Got unlucky on the first 2 burns (one fall I ended up BELOW Will after falling off), and had a dry slip while crushing on my 3rd.
2 more days of good connies and I reckon I can get this done. |
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Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Jared Anderson | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 9. Equalled my 2nd best highpoint 3 times (out of 4 redpoint burns) but still didn't push any higher. This still makes it my best ratio going through the low crux. More epic beta refinement until I was so tired I could barely jumar out. Forgetting my brush did NOT help things today.
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Tue 2nd Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
x3 laps to get the draws on this really tested me! I have found my summer project!
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Mon 1st Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 8. No new highpoint, though I came up with more reliable (though burlier) beta for the first boulder crux, and totally new beta for the move I fell off on my highpoint (which means I should never do THAT again... assuming I ever get there again).
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Mon 25th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Luke Hef | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
X3 top rope laps. Then it went down first shot on lead.
First 24 on gear! This is perfect example of why the Blue Mountains Climbing is so special! It's not just the rock or how hard the moves are. It's about the stunning landscape, the utterly ludicrous exposure and somehow ending up in the thick of it with good friends. 😀 |
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Sun 24th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match, Luke Hef | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 7 - The closest I've come yet. Now including the bottom boulder problem into the rest of the pitch, I fell off on the final moves of the lower half before the no-hands rest. Then on the "one-sit" attempt, I actually stuck the move I normally fall off at the tippy top, but bungled a footer and didn't make the easier moves... But at the end of a big day, I was wrecked.
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Match, Luke Hef | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Clean repeat. Seconding Luke at the end of a double-send (of this route) day. Awesome!
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 16th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 5. 3 more laps, and twice more the final move gets me. Groundhog day, much?
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with davedave, Paul Frothy Thomson | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Just inspecting the moves and all that jazz. Also the weather today was terrible high winds and the waterfall raining down on the belay ledge.
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with davedave, Paul Frothy Thomson | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So much quality climbing!! Will be back shortly for more 😍
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Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 |
★★ Charlie Don't Surf
- with
Vicky Chen
1
2
24
25m
| 25m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeat attempt, not clean today. After 160m over 4 pitches (the easiest of which was gr24), trying to lead out this was not one of my smarter ideas. I battled hard, but linking it was never really going to be possible. Great, steep-ish face climbing, though.
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24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Vicky Chen | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Seconding Vicky to exit the crag. Clocking up frequent climber miles on this mega classic.
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28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Vicky Chen | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 4, 3 more laps. Falling off the final moves at the top of this is fast becoming a theme, here. The sequence is hard in isolation, but after 35m climbing it's hard to have the internal discipline to boulder it out. I put in a lot of effort to refining the sequence, and I think I have finally sorted it out (albeit with the loss of a LOT of skin). The biggest concerns now are exhausting all my (wonderful) belayers, or it getting too hot this season.
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Wed 6th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Dave on his successful Red Point of this route. Sweeeeet. Felt pretty gnarly today after all my time on the proj, but fun fun fun.
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28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
3 more shots. Twice fell off the final crux right at the tippy top. The low crux is still giving me a lot of grief, though. So much fun, falling off doesn't matter all that much (though running out of climbing partners does ).
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Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
24 |
FA
★ Tradfear
- with
Heath Black
| 87m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
A great outing up a major feature (visible from Perry's!) but not necessarily a great route. Steep and atmospheric, but generally average rock. All of the various cruxes are above gear, which makes this feel like a real trad route, despite a few bolts.
The quite bold start to P2 had me get scared and jump off twice before I could change my headspace and push through the runout crux for the send, after which I flashed to the top. A great pitch which is crazy overhanging through multiple roofs. Pitch 3 is short and steep up an overhanging offset arete, but the rock is hideous. Pitch 4 is basically unprotected until you regain Superdyke (after which the rock and climbing greatly increase). |
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Fri 1st Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Stephen Varney, Ben Sanford | 40m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2 shots. HARD! Some of the most complex and technical steep climbing I've ever done. The dyno at half-height through the roof is outrageous, and the top 15m headwall is nearly Hairline-levels of mega, up a series of improbable linked features. Still one move I've never worked out near the start.
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27 | ★★★ Proleptic Decrepitude and Despair - with Stephen Varney, Ben Sanford | 40m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeat attempt -not clean today. I couldn't do the boulder-crux move at all today, despite many attempts at it -it was just too humid! Managed to test the gear with some big falls, though Lots of fun to chuck a "carefree" lap on it, though.
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The 3 trad pitches were excellent quality.
The sport exit pitch nearly killed us.
Rick pulled on a microwave-and-a-half-sized boulder as he was topping out, felt it move and instinctively let go.
The block was dislodged and we think it fell onto his lead rope below and sandwiched it between the two rock surfaces.
He then fell and the force on the rope causes the boulder to fall the rest of the way off the cliff and the forces at play shred (and what looks like melts!) the sheath between the two rocks. There's about 50 cm of exposed core. But, impressively, none of the strands have broken!
I hear "ROCK!" and faceplant against the cliff face and the rock magically falls past me and none of us are dead.