Ascents in Solomon Area as Tick or First ascent

Warm down

Single pitch thrash to the top of piddo. Matt had to wrestle out a couple cams that had made a get away into the crack. I was shown the superior method of tradding afterwards on gemini with an impressive 'royal flush' in hex bingo. Even ordered correctly.

Sat to retrieve gear.

Wouldn’t do again.

super good line, not too hard except for one section. have to do it again without using carrots

Scary little traverse on hand jams. Glad I was following up!

Struggled at blank crux after the little RH pocket - couldn't hold the high RH crimp and I couldn't stop the barn door when trying to smear + layback off the arete. The wind didn't help either, but then it got calmer and I still couldn't do it, so batmanned past the move and continued on.

1st pitch: great feet and bit dirty. Going through the flake is super burlesque. It’s all about thrushing and trying to keep your right leg in there. It’s fairly wide in the crack.

Going from flake crack which is on an angle to face climb was a bit hard. There is a left jug somewhere when you get top of that flake (i can’t remember where, sorry)

That 1st pitch ends with a natural anchor with a lot of slings or such so be careful. (Apparently there are DRBB to the right but didn’t see it lol)

2nd Pitch: they says its a 17. I think its sandbag 18. I went left around the corner because that seemed like the best option for me.

I found it very balancey and hardly any hands around the corner. If you’re short and want to dog it easily bring a long Prog stick clip because you have to go up to rap off.

Around the 2nd bolt is pretty blank and reachy. That’ll bring you around the arête side, big right flag move to the 3rd bolt. Then onto the face climbing when you come around to a ledge. I used a bolt plate on a rusty carrot that’s sticking out (only for my mind sake, but you shouldn’t be using it lol) Powered up on better holds so i can get my feet up. Then its jug city all the way up to rap rings.

*If you are going to rap down from the 2nd pitch bring a longer rope (unless you can walk off, not sure if you can but looks like) We had a 60m rope and we were still 5m off the ground. Thankfully my partner had an aid ladder and aid gear. He rigged it so he can down climb a bit. Make sure you tie off those ends of the rope kids. Your rope will land in the trees below when you’re rapping off to the left.

Beautiful rock , definitely hard for a 19.

It was daunting to look up at the second pitch, but wasn't as hard as it looked. Jamming training on the Janicepts helped a lot I think

Sustained but that end arete though! #love

Easy when you have big paws

A line that invokes a perpetual attraction to the wandering. If you walk past it and at first sight thoughts of finding yourself on the crack realm's of Solomon don't meander into your heart, it might be time to hang up that rack.

Climbing in its most surreal form! A beautiful steep corner that allows a passage towards its crux through bomber hand jams, then a couple of very strenuous moves to gain the wide crack where one can find solace before committing to a scary step across to tame the mighty roof. Rest is history, climb the chossy corner and belay at the shiny new rings at the top whilst contemplating the beauty of what you have just experienced.

Took a fall at the crux, had to rest to rethink the feet prospects.

Gear used: a standard rack of cams including doubles of #1,#2,#3 and a single #4. 5 bolt plates to clip the ancient gifts.

Every time I walk past this it says ‘climb me!’ So I do.

such a sick climb! Love the roof section. sustained hand crack to a fist/layback combination to pull past the offwidth - streneous but pure fun!

great line! hand section is strenuous while the fist section is slightly to wide for me, making the jams insecure but workable

fun climb! def need at least one #4 and #5. top is quite runout

Harder than Solomon for me

P1

P2