Ascents of Charity as Clean

practiced the double butterfly jam with some leg technique that i don't fully understand yet

Enjoyable width, would be nicer if we had more big stuff

Would welcome an explanation of how these climbs managed to score an anchor of about 15 bolts past and present...and it still looks jank. Two well placed stainless glue ins and some cammo chopped bolts anyone ???

2nd attempt on this and CLEAN! as last time (2yrs ago) I fell (1 and half metre upside down. A bit of a milestone for me as my technique is better and I’m much stronger. Took me 2yrs to come back to trad and its fitting I conquered this climb as its the same name as me. So basically conquered myself.

Getting up to the wider crack it helped me to lock in my knee in place to place pro. On the ledge I reckon I could of used a #4 cam (i forgot to extend it, so heaps of drag. I made the traverse harder for myself on the way to the anchor. Didn’t realise you could traverse across and above the anchor to slowly down climb safely. Instead i pistol squat down right above the anchors.

Anyways made it! Big thanks to my belay partner Keith Davison for pep talks and shit talks.

Great layback/jamming combination towards the top!

A good quick choice while we waited to see if the storms floating around would amount to anything.

very aesthetic corner crack. gets pretty wide up the top before the sketchy unprotected traverse. gear used BD 3, 4, 5.

Not enough gear left over to lead. Still a good route

Great moves, very interesting for a 13! Thoroughly enjoyable.

Seconded it so had the added protection of top roping. Great lay back with some jamming towards the top out. Topmost offering great holds!

I found this climb challenging for a grade 13.

Bring big gear.

Big John's Buck's night. Lots o' fun.

Felt trickier than a 13 in parts.

Outstanding climb. Lots of laybacking is an easy route to the top