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Routes as sport in Mt Boyce

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Showing all 91 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Sport
19 Caconofix

Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB.

FA: G Short & W Williams

Sport 50m Blue Mountains
19 Blinded by the Light

The routes in this area are listed right to left as you come to them.

FA: M.Paynes, 1999

Sport 8m Blue Mountains
22 X Cheeky Thing

First bolt removed pending rebolt.. Doubt this will ever happen.

FA: B.Laursen, 1999

Sport 8m Blue Mountains
22 Xanthorrhoea Australis

FA: I.Geatches, 1999

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
24 The Big Lebowski

Start: This and the next 2 routes share a common start.

FA: I.Geatches, 2000

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
27 Mattie Potatie

FA: I.Geatches, 2000

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
28 You Can Float

FA: I.Geatches, 2002

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
23 Pre-Millenium Tension

FA: mark payens

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
23 Big in Japan

FA: Mark Payens

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
19 Sorcerers Apprentice

Lower off single bolt!

FA: J.Dodson, 1999

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
21 Too Soft

FA: J.Dodson, 2000

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
26 Beastie Boyce

An impressive line! Shared start for several bolts with Boisterous then truck left onto arete and overhung wall above.

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
23 Boisterous

One of the best 23s around. Fantastic rock and nice and sustained. Shared start with Beastie Boyce then straight up the face to anchors under massive roof.

FA: L.Wishart, 2000

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
26 Big Boyce Blouse

Major corner right of Boisterous for a few bolts then climbs the right wall and through gut wrenching mega roof above. The final flake to the anchor isn’t solid, needs to be fixed.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
24 Barking up the Wrong Tree

The old Giles project. Was partially bolted with a dozen dodgy doggers for 20 years - has now been revamped and direct start added (instead of starting up Fart Flusher - although there are still a few extra RBs to let you do this link if you like).

Originally done with a stickclip and short batman past greenery but has now been freed from the ground, same grade. Three bolts up punchy start to ledge, then swing up right then back left steeply on pretty amazing holds and position.

Set: Giles Bradbury

FA: Heath Black, 6 Aug 2023

Sport 27m, 11 Blue Mountains
24 Fartflusher

Enjoyable adventure up a big and surprisingly overhung wall, connecting a series of flake features. Batman start just R of banksia. The white flake near the 8-9th bolts is very hollow up higher; it has a bit of chalk up it (!!) but if you don't like the idea of 50kg in the face, avoid it by staying low via good moves to the L. This route wanders and potentially creates rope drag, but this can be easily solved by: 40/60cm sling on 1st/3rd bolts; backclean 7th (& maybe 8th) bolt as you head left after the ramp; & 1-2 rollers at kneepoints. If you only have short draws, you could still do it by using double ropes.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

Sport 35m Blue Mountains
25 Rolls Boyce

Long wall with a gluey crux flake down low. There is a lot of excellent climbing in the top half out of sight from below. Take heed of the route length (70m rope mandatory). Big creaky flake at 3rd bolt needs to be fixed, avoid it while you can, then be gentle when you can’t.

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

Sport 37m Blue Mountains
25 Little Boyce Room

Far right of the sport routes, starting right of black corner crack. Hard bouldery start through roof then long wall and roof above. The rock quality on the upper headwall out of sight from the ground is just like the Grampians!

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

Sport 26m Blue Mountains
26 Yumster

Far left route. Climbs steeply diagonally left to slick fused corner.

FA: L.Wishart, 2003

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
20 Penny Arcade

3 pitches, fully bolted.

Start: Follow abseilers track down the gully, past the big cave. Continue around on L hand side of gully (facing out) to the implement straight out of mad max

FA: Niall Doherty & Roger Bourne, 2007

Sport 54m Blue Mountains
32 Mr. September

Far left hand route.

FA: N.Sutter, 1997

Sport 8m Blue Mountains
project Project

FA: Open, 2000

Sport Blue Mountains
26 Beaten, Bullied & Buggered

Boulder and pocket pulling test piece, well traveled but still sharp.

Now with proper lower off. 12/12

FA: G.Child & J.Smoothy, 1989

Sport 15m, 8 Blue Mountains
27 Six-draw Tallboy

Blunt arete 4m to the right of BB&B.

FA: N.Baker, 2002

Sport 10m Blue Mountains
25 A Bird in the Bush

One of the best here. Same start as Reagonomics then take the left line up scoops.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Sport 12m Blue Mountains
24 Reaganomics

Shared start and first move with A Bird in the Bush, then hard traverse right and up delightful scoopy features. 2nd bolt is a tough clip if you are short. Use the anchor of Bird in a Bush over on the left (hard to clean from).

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

Sport 13m Blue Mountains
23 Watergate

Tricky boulder off the ground then easy climbing.

FA: P.Stebbins, A.Drennen & B.Pearse, 1982

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
21 Vambrace

Funky thin move climbing over a flake start with a juggy top.

FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 2000

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
24 Monica's Gate

Very thin crux but good feet, make them work.

FA: G.Trutnovsky & M.Pircher, 1998

Sport 12m Blue Mountains
16 Sweet Seduction in a Magazine

The line of FHs up the L side of the Afghan Wall face. Links up with Endless Pleasure in a Limousine just beneath the overhang and shares the same anchors. Unfortunately for the last 15m it is a retrobolt of Atlantis.

FA: unknown

Sport 50m, 14 Blue Mountains
16 Endless Pleasure in a Limousine

The line of ringbolts at the initials "AW". Almost this entire route is a retrobolt of Afghan Wall. Links up with Sweet Seduction in a Magazine just beneath the overhang. WARNING: the ringbolts are not recessed.

FA: G Oliver & J Corkins

Sport 47m, 14 Blue Mountains
21 Querilous Journey

2m left of FITG. Batman start to jugs and FH's and BR's to Girl in The Mirror end. At least 9 bolt plates required.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

Sport 40m Blue Mountains
23 The Master's Eggs

Gritstone climbing on perfect rock. The beautiful orange arete 50m left of One Of The Best.

Start: Start off tree at right end of slab.

  1. 25m (23) Thin traverse left to the arete then ecstatically up. The rounded arete leads to some beautifully polished scoops. Pull past these and make some thin moves to gain the flake above. Go straight up (bolt added Jan 07). Rap off double rings.

  2. 28m (23) Traverse the holdless footledge then try to find the holds on the slab above. Up the arete and up the bulge past the eggs.

  3. 15m (20) Through the bulge to anchors at the top of the cliff. You can also rap in this way.

FA: R Bourne & C Frost

Sport 73m, 3 Blue Mountains
26 One of the Best

An absolutely awesome line. Do it in one monster 45m pitch or double rings semi-hanging belay half way up. No cams necessary any more. Rap twice or tow a second rope, though its hard enough doing the thin top crux with the full weight of one rope. A 65m rope permits lowering and retying at the first belay. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread. Rebolted by Martin Pircher (top) and Roger Bourne (bottom) (2002-2004) with permission from GB/JS.

Start: Start in the middle of the impressive wall 200m left of Spoilt Brats.

  1. 26m (26) Up easy stuff and left under roof, up flake and through bulge to belay.

  2. 30m (25) Right to thin crack, up it, then right to arete and up.

FA: Giles Bradbury & John Smoothy., 1990

Sport 56m, 2 Blue Mountains
21 Shades of Grey

The leftmost bolted route on 'Spoilt Brats Wall'. Stick clip the first bolt, the first hold is creaky. Trend left on overhung territory past 3 bolts then tech your way up the vertical face.

FA: J.Smoothy, 2002

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
24 Cirrus Maximus

Start as for SoG past it's first bolt then trend R through the low bulge to a notoriously tough mantel. The remainder is said to be (and looks) fantastic.

FA: F.Yule, 2001

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
20 Minor Threat

According to Roger Bourne's website, but not mentioned in the guidebooks, this is accessed by abseil. Which is consistent with it being 20m long. And also would explain why those approaching from the ground via Infant Terror find it hard for 20.

FA: S.Bell & H.Hooper, 2002

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
23 Hey! Big Sender!

Left hand route, the dirty arete.

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

Sport 10m Blue Mountains
26 Project Sent

Still has the tag, but has been freed at 26.

Set: Felix Pircher

Sport 10m Blue Mountains
24 Vampy the Buffed Boy Slayer

FA: A.Duckworth, 2002

Sport 10m Blue Mountains
23 Unleash the Mighty Mongrel

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

Sport 10m Blue Mountains
22 Actionman

FA: S.Bell & Mike File, 2002

Sport 10m Blue Mountains
23 Mighty Hermaphrodite

The very R end of the ledge - watch the drop below!

FA: A.Duckworth, 2002

Sport 10m Blue Mountains
26 Superbug

Arete 1m right of Firebug. Up Firebug for 4m then swing right onto the face below the nose. Either stickclip super high first bolt, or place two medium cams.

FA: S.Bell, 2002

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
20 Light My Fire

Rap in to large ledge with chain. Climb up veering left to above Firebug. Follow rings to 2 alternative finishes.

FA: Roger Bourne

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
14 Baby Carrots

Approach the top of Bronze Orange Bug/Bug Free, spot two carrots at ground level and scramble down 2m to U bolts. Rap from these and redirect ropes through the large stainless steel hook to maintain the arete to a semi-hanging double ring belay, well off the deck. Committing crux off the belay leads to many glue in carrots to top. Bring 12 brackets.

FA: Roger Bourne

Sport 35m, 10 Blue Mountains
25 Bronze Orange Bug

An old aid route at 12m6 now freed grade at 25. A great mountains pumper, crux near the ground then great long climb on feature bright orange rock.

FFA: A. Duckworth, 2003

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
14 Little Johnny

Right of air 2 spare on carrots

FA: 2007

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
20 Grand Slam 2008

Rings and bolts right of Goldstar

FA: Tony Williams/Nick T, 2008

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
19 My Mate Matey
Sport 25m Blue Mountains
21 Pig Iron Slaughter

Up left side of arete. Take small cams and a set of nuts for the bottom, 4BR's at top. DBB.

Rebolted May 2007

FA: A.Penney, J.Smoothy & L.Trihey, 1984

Sport 45m Blue Mountains
21 Life of Your Time

On dark orange face halfway down abseilers' track where it touches right side of gully.

FA: Niall Doherty & George Muraoka, 2010

Sport 20m, 9 Blue Mountains
24 Ritalin

An absolute gem. As for SoG to it's 4th bolt (backclean or extend it), step right, then straight up technical face into a steeper finish, all on great rock. DRB lower-off.

FA: S.Bell, 2003

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
22 Girl in the Mirror - Mean Streak Linkup

Links the best parts of 2 routes and makes for one of the best at the grade in the Bluies. Pitch 1 of The Girl in the Mirror, then Pitch 2 of Mean Streak and finish for the 22. It can easily be linked into a single pitch with a few longer draws. The second may hit the ground if they fall off with rope stretch. There are two rusty carrots at the end of the pitch 1.5m to the left of a single bolt. If choosing to climb as two pitches you would be better off using a cam with the single bolt to build an anchor over the rusty carrots. Triple FH's at top. Rebolted 2018.

Sport 45m, 2, 13 Blue Mountains
22 Lap Lap Land

An alternative finish to 'Licking Holes Creek'. Lots of good holds all facing the wrong direction.

Start: Start as for first two pitches of LHC.

FA: R Bourne & G Bradbury, 2003

Sport 35m Blue Mountains
19 Cat's in the Cradle

This three pitch bolted route ascends the dark grey slab between Plastic Sturgeon and 'Jugantor'.

Start: Starts at the bottom left of the slab, just right of a vegetated diagonal crack/ramp.

  1. 20m (17) Awkward start from horizontal tree trunk just above the track. Up trending right for 10m to gain break with hands, then traverse right for 10m to DRB in large horizontal break. 9 RB to hanging belay.

  2. 25m (19) Toughish face moves for a few metres, then the angle eases to a thin slab, with a very balancy crux 3/4 way up. 'Trust' your feet! 10 RB to DRB belay on good stance.

  3. 8m (16) Up trending right to bulge with large ironstone flakes, over bulge then easily up. 5 RB to DRB on good ledge.

FA: Niall Doherty & Peter Chaly

FA: Niall Doherty & Peter Chaly, 2006

Sport 53m, 3 Blue Mountains
24 Plastic Sturgeon

Orthopaedic more likely by all accounts. Megan Turnbull had to build a cairn on a ledge by rope-hauling stones up one by one. Rap twice or take two ropes. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread

Start: Start to the right of One Of The Best.

  1. 25m (24) Follow the dots... to a double bolt belay.

  2. 25m (24) Towards the top of the second pitch think about the name of the climb and grope around for a "hold" in a place you wouldnt expect to find one.

FA: A Duckwoth & M Pircher, 2002

Sport 50m, 2 Blue Mountains
24 Licking Holes Creek

Start just left of the corner with the slab - opposite the huge fallen boulder. The is an old "H" on the rock - probably the start of Haggis which goes up the slab to the right.

  1. 15m (23) All sorts of technical balancing required to get to and past first bolt. 2nd bolt is a dangerous clip. Lots of fragile rock on this pitch.

  2. 20m (24) Awkward move up and onto fragile flake, then traverse left and across the beautiful orange pockets to small ledge. Finish up grey wall above using the left of two rings. Belay on nice ledge below corner

  3. 25m (20) Climb the beautiful corner, and or the arete to the right. Finish up grey jugs to rap anchor on the left just below the top. Two raps using single 60m rope will get you back to the ground.

FA: R Bourne & A Duckworth

FA: R. Bourne, 2003

Sport 60m, 3 Blue Mountains
24 Jugantor

"An excellent route" (Kyle D.)

Start: Start to the right of the corner with the grey slab.

  1. 20m (23) Pull up onto into the groove and traverse bizzarely left 10m then up wall. Falling seconds may be lost in space so consider bringing prussics.

  2. 15m (23) Head on up the perfect grey rock.

  3. 30m (24) A Wee bit tricky getting up the slab and then down across it. Don't wear slippers !. 'Steep' jugging follows. Belay on rings on a ledge about 2m below the top.

FA: R. Bourne, 2003

Sport 65m, 3 Blue Mountains
26 The Hintenbumsen Disaster

Artistic. Lower off chains of Vampy.

FA: R.Bourne, 2003

Sport 10m Blue Mountains
24 Bug Proboscis

An even more airy finish to 'Superbug'.

Start: 'Superbug'. Continue 10m past the top of 'Superbug' to chains.

  1. 30m (24)

  2. -m (-)

FA: R. Bourne, 2004

Sport 30m, 2 Blue Mountains
27 The Ass Of The Angel

Utterly absorbing climbing all the way with two tricky cruxes

Start: EASY APPROACH: Off the ledge at the bottom of Firebug. Stick clip first ring and batman up to spike. Up 6m to ledge and traverse left 10m.

FA: R Bourne, 2003

Sport Blue Mountains
27 Better Than Wife

Unbelievably good fun with fantastic climbing all the way.

Start: Start as for 'Bug Free' at the ugly undercut arete.

FA: R Bourne, 2004

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
24 25th Floor

More like 'Arapiles' that the Blue Mtns. Very good sustained climbing in a creepy environment makes this one feel much harder than it really is. 'Excellent' on a hot day and has a viewing gallery on the opposite wall of the chasm.

Start at short steep corner/flake 5m up the gully. Follow the U-bolts. Supplementary cams (small and medium) are a comfort.

FA: M.Grey, 1981

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
31 Leprosy

dodgy dnya bolt, dont clip this!!! clip the fat ring bolt to the right!!

Start: start 4 meters left of beaten bullied and buggered

FA: V.Day, 2005

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
32 Fury

a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs.

Start: 15 meters right of mr september.

FA: vince day, 2004

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
17 Side Stepper

Right hand end of wall.. Up and traverse left staying low on traverse. Continue up to anchor.

Set: B Jung

FA: A Cummings, 2014

Sport 12m Blue Mountains
28 mailorder meercat

Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.

FA: Mathew Norgrove, 2012

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
24 Luft
1 23
2 24
  1. (23) 22m Start next to ramp about 50m left of waterfall. Hard move off the ground (if u pull on the draw take a grade off) then up and slightly right to belay.

  2. (24) Up to big rest underneath roof, then suck it up and traverse right to lip, up slab. BRING PRUSICS FOR SECOND, as they might end up in space. Kind of airy, kind of scary!!!

FFA: S. Meng Ellen Meads, Jul 2015

Sport 55m, 2 Blue Mountains
25 Wasser

Start up Luft for the first few bolts, then traverse right and up. Very green during a La Nina. Second pitch is closed project.

FA: S. Meng, Aug 2015

Sport 55m, 2 Blue Mountains
26 Soak up the Atmosphere

Second Pitch of Intergalactic Atmospheric Traveller, or abseil in from the top. It's the big right leaning seam you can see from the ground on the right side of the cliff. Be cautious with the big plates between first and second bolt. Fridge hugging dyno crux....

FFA: S. Meng & J.Patterson(single), Oct 2015

Sport 20m, 2 Blue Mountains
25 Boyce Light Up

A big bad boy. Start off cairn 20m right of Fartflusher. Up to break then head left to clip, up and back right clipping and unclipping 2 bolts to reduce rope drag (or use double ropes). Then you can attempt the crux and stunning water runnel above.

Set: lloyd wishart

FA: lloyd wishart, 24 Aug 2017

Sport 30m, 16 Blue Mountains
24 Pokahontas

There's a few different ways to go. Good warm up... Starts in the corner next to tree, then up and slightly left, shares anchor with Banana Man. For Safety, clip the 4th bolt from high jug before traversing left

Set: Luke Mulkearns

FFA: Luke Mulkearns, Sep 2017

Sport 18m Blue Mountains
25 Banana Man

Classic... there may be a jump, or 3!!! Same start as Spiderpuss, up the rungs then go right.

Set: Luke Mulkearns

FFA: Luke Mulkearns, Oct 2017

Sport 18m Blue Mountains
26 SpiderPuss

Start up the rungs about 7 metres right from arete. Sweet Mountains climbing.

FFA: Stephan Meng, Sep 2017

Sport 18m Blue Mountains
27 Crunch

4 metres right of arete. Stick clip second bolt, starts to the right. Open your hips for the heel / toe crux...

FFA: Stephan Meng, Aug 2017

Sport 18m Blue Mountains
29 Unstuck in Time

The first route you get to, up the arete and right at the top. Pretty wild...

FFA: Stephan Meng, Nov 2017

Sport 18m Blue Mountains
27 Intergalactic Holistic Space Traveller

Starts up the rungs 6-8m past Luft. Flexible hips might help at the first crux! Finishes at the same anchors as Wasser on the left.

FFA: Stephan Meng, Sep 2017

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
26 Intergalactic Atmospheric Traveller

Links Intergalactic Holistic Space Traveller into Soak up the Atmosphere on the right, and avoids the top crux of I.H.S.T.

FFA: Stephan Meng, Sep 2017

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
Muppet Project

Left of the two bolted routes on this wall. Lots of bolts. Might be a project. Looks hardish.

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
Mystery Route 2

Right of the two bolted routes on this wall. Lots of bolts. Might be a project. Looks hard.

Sport Blue Mountains
Mystery Slab

Lots and lots of old rusty carrots going straight up big black slab about 50m from the waterfall, starting just left of large boulder perched at base of cliff. Looks quite hard and might involve trad as well well.

Sport 50m Blue Mountains
28 Intergalactic MoOnwalker

Climb up IHST to the last bolt, then continue slightly right all the way up to the anchor of Soak up the Atmosphere. A 65m rope only just gets you to the ground.

FFA: stephan meng, 22 Feb 2019

Sport 38m, 14 Blue Mountains
28 Chupa Pollo Pendejo

Shares the first 2 bolts with Luft. Second half is some of the best rock in the mountains! Doesn't look very promising from the ground, but it's amazing climbing ....

FFA: stephan meng, 26 Apr 2019

Sport 35m, 12 Blue Mountains
Closed Project

Still has a tag as at March 2022. Can seep.

Sport 15m, 7 Blue Mountains
24 Bad Boyce Bad Boyce

Uncertainty Pleasure meets Lipstick, with a dose of Grotto face climbing to finish. A mega roof, to a mega headwall. Proper fun!

Stick clip first bolt, then follow permadraws (permachains?) through left-leading roof flake, to crux lip-turn/traverse, onwards to join Boyce Light Up at the water scoops, and continue up to the anchor. A long draw on the last bolt on the lip, and the following bolt, will alleviate the issue of the rope getting caught on a giant flake above the roof. Permadraws mean that there are no issues cleaning the roof on loweroff, so don't be afraid to have a crack. 70m rope essential!

Sport 35m Blue Mountains
Project Simmo

The partially equipped line that continues more directly through the roof (and face above) of Bad Boyce Bad Boyce. This is still a closed project, so please stay off.

Set: Simmo

SportProject Blue Mountains
25 A Long Walk (Down a Short Pier)

Shared start with the "Backstreet Boyce" Project. Up for 3 bolts via a flake compression boulder, then step right and into the crux of reinventing the wheel. Follow bolts trending left forever. Take lots of Runners!

FA: Match, Alec Eastwood & Adrian Kladnig, 15 Feb 2022

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
22 Blouse Big Boyce

Head up the first two bolts of Boisterous, then continue up Big Boyce Blouse to beneath the roof (lower off a single ring). An excellent warmup.

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
25 Reinventing the Wheel (To Run Myself Over)

Follow Boyce Light Up for three bolts, then blast through a tricky rooflet (crux) then onto an awesome 25m headwall of delicious orange rock.

Sport 35m Blue Mountains
26 Backstreet Boyce

Up the compression flake to stance, then wild moves through big roof trending left, followed by more leftwards roofing. Up orange prow above to anchor.

FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 22 Jun

Sport 20m Blue Mountains

Showing all 91 routes.

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