Showing all 91 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sport | |||||
19 | ★ Caconofix
Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB. FA: G Short & W Williams | 50m | Blue Mountains | ||
19 | Blinded by the Light
The routes in this area are listed right to left as you come to them. FA: M.Paynes, 1999 | 8m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 X | Cheeky Thing
First bolt removed pending rebolt.. Doubt this will ever happen. FA: B.Laursen, 1999 | 8m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis
FA: I.Geatches, 1999 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★★ The Big Lebowski
Start: This and the next 2 routes share a common start. FA: I.Geatches, 2000 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
27 | ★★ Mattie Potatie
FA: I.Geatches, 2000 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
28 | ★★ You Can Float
FA: I.Geatches, 2002 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Pre-Millenium Tension
FA: mark payens | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★ Big in Japan
FA: Mark Payens | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice
Lower off single bolt! FA: J.Dodson, 1999 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
21 | ★ Too Soft
FA: J.Dodson, 2000 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★★ Beastie Boyce
An impressive line! Shared start for several bolts with Boisterous then truck left onto arete and overhung wall above. FA: L.Wishart, 2001 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ Boisterous
One of the best 23s around. Fantastic rock and nice and sustained. Shared start with Beastie Boyce then straight up the face to anchors under massive roof. FA: L.Wishart, 2000 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★ Big Boyce Blouse
Major corner right of Boisterous for a few bolts then climbs the right wall and through gut wrenching mega roof above. The final flake to the anchor isn’t solid, needs to be fixed. FA: L.Wishart, 2002 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★★★ Barking up the Wrong Tree
The old Giles project. Was partially bolted with a dozen dodgy doggers for 20 years - has now been revamped and direct start added (instead of starting up Fart Flusher - although there are still a few extra RBs to let you do this link if you like). Originally done with a stickclip and short batman past greenery but has now been freed from the ground, same grade. Three bolts up punchy start to ledge, then swing up right then back left steeply on pretty amazing holds and position. Set: Giles Bradbury FA: Heath Black, 6 Aug 2023 | 27m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★★ Fartflusher
Enjoyable adventure up a big and surprisingly overhung wall, connecting a series of flake features. Batman start just R of banksia. The white flake near the 8-9th bolts is very hollow up higher; it has a bit of chalk up it (!!) but if you don't like the idea of 50kg in the face, avoid it by staying low via good moves to the L. This route wanders and potentially creates rope drag, but this can be easily solved by: 40/60cm sling on 1st/3rd bolts; backclean 7th (& maybe 8th) bolt as you head left after the ramp; & 1-2 rollers at kneepoints. If you only have short draws, you could still do it by using double ropes. FA: L.Wishart, 2002 | 35m | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★★ Rolls Boyce
Long wall with a gluey crux flake down low. There is a lot of excellent climbing in the top half out of sight from below. Take heed of the route length (70m rope mandatory). Big creaky flake at 3rd bolt needs to be fixed, avoid it while you can, then be gentle when you can’t. FA: L.Wishart, 2001 | 37m | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room
Far right of the sport routes, starting right of black corner crack. Hard bouldery start through roof then long wall and roof above. The rock quality on the upper headwall out of sight from the ground is just like the Grampians! FA: L.Wishart, 2001 | 26m | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★ Yumster
Far left route. Climbs steeply diagonally left to slick fused corner. FA: L.Wishart, 2003 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
20 | ★★ Penny Arcade
3 pitches, fully bolted. Start: Follow abseilers track down the gully, past the big cave. Continue around on L hand side of gully (facing out) to the implement straight out of mad max FA: Niall Doherty & Roger Bourne, 2007 | 54m | Blue Mountains | ||
32 | Mr. September
Far left hand route. FA: N.Sutter, 1997 | 8m | Blue Mountains | ||
project | Project
FA: Open, 2000 | Blue Mountains | |||
26 | ★★ Beaten, Bullied & Buggered
Boulder and pocket pulling test piece, well traveled but still sharp. Now with proper lower off. 12/12 FA: G.Child & J.Smoothy, 1989 | 15m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
27 | Six-draw Tallboy
Blunt arete 4m to the right of BB&B. FA: N.Baker, 2002 | 10m | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★★ A Bird in the Bush
One of the best here. Same start as Reagonomics then take the left line up scoops. FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 12m | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★ Reaganomics
Shared start and first move with A Bird in the Bush, then hard traverse right and up delightful scoopy features. 2nd bolt is a tough clip if you are short. Use the anchor of Bird in a Bush over on the left (hard to clean from). FA: J.Smoothy, 1984 | 13m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★ Watergate
Tricky boulder off the ground then easy climbing. FA: P.Stebbins, A.Drennen & B.Pearse, 1982 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
21 | ★ Vambrace
Funky thin move climbing over a flake start with a juggy top. FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 2000 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★ Monica's Gate
Very thin crux but good feet, make them work. FA: G.Trutnovsky & M.Pircher, 1998 | 12m | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★★ Sweet Seduction in a Magazine
The line of FHs up the L side of the Afghan Wall face. Links up with Endless Pleasure in a Limousine just beneath the overhang and shares the same anchors. Unfortunately for the last 15m it is a retrobolt of Atlantis. FA: unknown | 50m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★★ Endless Pleasure in a Limousine
The line of ringbolts at the initials "AW". Almost this entire route is a retrobolt of Afghan Wall. Links up with Sweet Seduction in a Magazine just beneath the overhang. WARNING: the ringbolts are not recessed. FA: G Oliver & J Corkins | 47m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ||
21 | ★ Querilous Journey
2m left of FITG. Batman start to jugs and FH's and BR's to Girl in The Mirror end. At least 9 bolt plates required. FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort | 40m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ The Master's Eggs
Gritstone climbing on perfect rock. The beautiful orange arete 50m left of One Of The Best. Start: Start off tree at right end of slab.
FA: R Bourne & C Frost | 73m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★ One of the Best
An absolutely awesome line. Do it in one monster 45m pitch or double rings semi-hanging belay half way up. No cams necessary any more. Rap twice or tow a second rope, though its hard enough doing the thin top crux with the full weight of one rope. A 65m rope permits lowering and retying at the first belay. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread. Rebolted by Martin Pircher (top) and Roger Bourne (bottom) (2002-2004) with permission from GB/JS. Start: Start in the middle of the impressive wall 200m left of Spoilt Brats.
FA: Giles Bradbury & John Smoothy., 1990 | 56m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
21 | ★★ Shades of Grey
The leftmost bolted route on 'Spoilt Brats Wall'. Stick clip the first bolt, the first hold is creaky. Trend left on overhung territory past 3 bolts then tech your way up the vertical face. FA: J.Smoothy, 2002 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★★ Cirrus Maximus
Start as for SoG past it's first bolt then trend R through the low bulge to a notoriously tough mantel. The remainder is said to be (and looks) fantastic. FA: F.Yule, 2001 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
20 | ★★ Minor Threat
According to Roger Bourne's website, but not mentioned in the guidebooks, this is accessed by abseil. Which is consistent with it being 20m long. And also would explain why those approaching from the ground via Infant Terror find it hard for 20. FA: S.Bell & H.Hooper, 2002 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | Hey! Big Sender!
Left hand route, the dirty arete. FA: M.Pircher, 2002 | 10m | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★ Project Sent
Still has the tag, but has been freed at 26. Set: Felix Pircher | 10m | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★ Vampy the Buffed Boy Slayer
FA: A.Duckworth, 2002 | 10m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Unleash the Mighty Mongrel
FA: M.Pircher, 2002 | 10m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Actionman
FA: S.Bell & Mike File, 2002 | 10m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Mighty Hermaphrodite
The very R end of the ledge - watch the drop below! FA: A.Duckworth, 2002 | 10m | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★★ Superbug
Arete 1m right of Firebug. Up Firebug for 4m then swing right onto the face below the nose. Either stickclip super high first bolt, or place two medium cams. FA: S.Bell, 2002 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
20 | ★★ Light My Fire
Rap in to large ledge with chain. Climb up veering left to above Firebug. Follow rings to 2 alternative finishes. FA: Roger Bourne | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★★ Baby Carrots
Approach the top of Bronze Orange Bug/Bug Free, spot two carrots at ground level and scramble down 2m to U bolts. Rap from these and redirect ropes through the large stainless steel hook to maintain the arete to a semi-hanging double ring belay, well off the deck. Committing crux off the belay leads to many glue in carrots to top. Bring 12 brackets. FA: Roger Bourne | 35m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★★ Bronze Orange Bug
An old aid route at 12m6 now freed grade at 25. A great mountains pumper, crux near the ground then great long climb on feature bright orange rock. FFA: A. Duckworth, 2003 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★★ Little Johnny
Right of air 2 spare on carrots FA: 2007 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
20 | ★ Grand Slam 2008
Rings and bolts right of Goldstar FA: Tony Williams/Nick T, 2008 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
19 | ★ My Mate Matey
| 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
21 | ★★ Pig Iron Slaughter
Up left side of arete. Take small cams and a set of nuts for the bottom, 4BR's at top. DBB. Rebolted May 2007 FA: A.Penney, J.Smoothy & L.Trihey, 1984 | 45m | Blue Mountains | ||
21 | Life of Your Time
On dark orange face halfway down abseilers' track where it touches right side of gully. FA: Niall Doherty & George Muraoka, 2010 | 20m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★★★ Ritalin
An absolute gem. As for SoG to it's 4th bolt (backclean or extend it), step right, then straight up technical face into a steeper finish, all on great rock. DRB lower-off. FA: S.Bell, 2003 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★★ Girl in the Mirror - Mean Streak Linkup
Links the best parts of 2 routes and makes for one of the best at the grade in the Bluies. Pitch 1 of The Girl in the Mirror, then Pitch 2 of Mean Streak and finish for the 22. It can easily be linked into a single pitch with a few longer draws. The second may hit the ground if they fall off with rope stretch. There are two rusty carrots at the end of the pitch 1.5m to the left of a single bolt. If choosing to climb as two pitches you would be better off using a cam with the single bolt to build an anchor over the rusty carrots. Triple FH's at top. Rebolted 2018. | 45m, 2, 13 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | Lap Lap Land
An alternative finish to 'Licking Holes Creek'. Lots of good holds all facing the wrong direction. Start: Start as for first two pitches of LHC. FA: R Bourne & G Bradbury, 2003 | 35m | Blue Mountains | ||
19 | ★★ Cat's in the Cradle
This three pitch bolted route ascends the dark grey slab between Plastic Sturgeon and 'Jugantor'. Start: Starts at the bottom left of the slab, just right of a vegetated diagonal crack/ramp.
FA: Niall Doherty & Peter Chaly FA: Niall Doherty & Peter Chaly, 2006 | 53m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★★ Plastic Sturgeon
Orthopaedic more likely by all accounts. Megan Turnbull had to build a cairn on a ledge by rope-hauling stones up one by one. Rap twice or take two ropes. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread Start: Start to the right of One Of The Best.
FA: A Duckwoth & M Pircher, 2002 | 50m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★ Licking Holes Creek
Start just left of the corner with the slab - opposite the huge fallen boulder. The is an old "H" on the rock - probably the start of Haggis which goes up the slab to the right.
FA: R Bourne & A Duckworth FA: R. Bourne, 2003 | 60m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★ Jugantor
"An excellent route" (Kyle D.) Start: Start to the right of the corner with the grey slab.
FA: R. Bourne, 2003 | 65m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★ The Hintenbumsen Disaster
Artistic. Lower off chains of Vampy. FA: R.Bourne, 2003 | 10m | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★ Bug Proboscis
An even more airy finish to 'Superbug'. Start: 'Superbug'. Continue 10m past the top of 'Superbug' to chains.
FA: R. Bourne, 2004 | 30m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
27 | ★★★ The Ass Of The Angel
Utterly absorbing climbing all the way with two tricky cruxes Start: EASY APPROACH: Off the ledge at the bottom of Firebug. Stick clip first ring and batman up to spike. Up 6m to ledge and traverse left 10m. FA: R Bourne, 2003 | Blue Mountains | |||
27 | ★ Better Than Wife
Unbelievably good fun with fantastic climbing all the way. Start: Start as for 'Bug Free' at the ugly undercut arete. FA: R Bourne, 2004 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★★ 25th Floor
More like 'Arapiles' that the Blue Mtns. Very good sustained climbing in a creepy environment makes this one feel much harder than it really is. 'Excellent' on a hot day and has a viewing gallery on the opposite wall of the chasm. Start at short steep corner/flake 5m up the gully. Follow the U-bolts. Supplementary cams (small and medium) are a comfort. FA: M.Grey, 1981 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
31 | Leprosy
dodgy dnya bolt, dont clip this!!! clip the fat ring bolt to the right!! Start: start 4 meters left of beaten bullied and buggered FA: V.Day, 2005 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
32 | Fury
a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs. Start: 15 meters right of mr september. FA: vince day, 2004 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
17 | ★ Side Stepper
Right hand end of wall.. Up and traverse left staying low on traverse. Continue up to anchor. Set: B Jung FA: A Cummings, 2014 | 12m | Blue Mountains | ||
28 | ★ mailorder meercat
Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor. FA: Mathew Norgrove, 2012 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★★ Luft
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2
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FFA: S. Meng Ellen Meads, Jul 2015 | 55m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★ Wasser
Start up Luft for the first few bolts, then traverse right and up. Very green during a La Nina. Second pitch is closed project. FA: S. Meng, Aug 2015 | 55m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★★ Soak up the Atmosphere
Second Pitch of Intergalactic Atmospheric Traveller, or abseil in from the top. It's the big right leaning seam you can see from the ground on the right side of the cliff. Be cautious with the big plates between first and second bolt. Fridge hugging dyno crux.... FFA: S. Meng & J.Patterson(single), Oct 2015 | 20m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★★ Boyce Light Up
A big bad boy. Start off cairn 20m right of Fartflusher. Up to break then head left to clip, up and back right clipping and unclipping 2 bolts to reduce rope drag (or use double ropes). Then you can attempt the crux and stunning water runnel above. Set: lloyd wishart FA: lloyd wishart, 24 Aug 2017 | 30m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★★ Pokahontas
There's a few different ways to go. Good warm up... Starts in the corner next to tree, then up and slightly left, shares anchor with Banana Man. For Safety, clip the 4th bolt from high jug before traversing left Set: Luke Mulkearns FFA: Luke Mulkearns, Sep 2017 | 18m | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★★ Banana Man
Classic... there may be a jump, or 3!!! Same start as Spiderpuss, up the rungs then go right. Set: Luke Mulkearns FFA: Luke Mulkearns, Oct 2017 | 18m | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★★ SpiderPuss
Start up the rungs about 7 metres right from arete. Sweet Mountains climbing. FFA: Stephan Meng, Sep 2017 | 18m | Blue Mountains | ||
27 | ★★ Crunch
4 metres right of arete. Stick clip second bolt, starts to the right. Open your hips for the heel / toe crux... FFA: Stephan Meng, Aug 2017 | 18m | Blue Mountains | ||
29 | ★★★ Unstuck in Time
The first route you get to, up the arete and right at the top. Pretty wild... FFA: Stephan Meng, Nov 2017 | 18m | Blue Mountains | ||
27 | ★★★ Intergalactic Holistic Space Traveller
Starts up the rungs 6-8m past Luft. Flexible hips might help at the first crux! Finishes at the same anchors as Wasser on the left. FFA: Stephan Meng, Sep 2017 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★ Intergalactic Atmospheric Traveller
Links Intergalactic Holistic Space Traveller into Soak up the Atmosphere on the right, and avoids the top crux of I.H.S.T. FFA: Stephan Meng, Sep 2017 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
Muppet Project
Left of the two bolted routes on this wall. Lots of bolts. Might be a project. Looks hardish. | 30m | Blue Mountains | |||
Mystery Route 2
Right of the two bolted routes on this wall. Lots of bolts. Might be a project. Looks hard. | Blue Mountains | ||||
Mystery Slab
Lots and lots of old rusty carrots going straight up big black slab about 50m from the waterfall, starting just left of large boulder perched at base of cliff. Looks quite hard and might involve trad as well well. | 50m | Blue Mountains | |||
28 | ★★ Intergalactic MoOnwalker
Climb up IHST to the last bolt, then continue slightly right all the way up to the anchor of Soak up the Atmosphere. A 65m rope only just gets you to the ground. FFA: stephan meng, 22 Feb 2019 | 38m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ||
28 | ★★ Chupa Pollo Pendejo
Shares the first 2 bolts with Luft. Second half is some of the best rock in the mountains! Doesn't look very promising from the ground, but it's amazing climbing .... FFA: stephan meng, 26 Apr 2019 | 35m, 12 | Blue Mountains | ||
Closed Project
Still has a tag as at March 2022. Can seep. | 15m, 7 | Blue Mountains | |||
24 | ★★ Bad Boyce Bad Boyce
Uncertainty Pleasure meets Lipstick, with a dose of Grotto face climbing to finish. A mega roof, to a mega headwall. Proper fun! Stick clip first bolt, then follow permadraws (permachains?) through left-leading roof flake, to crux lip-turn/traverse, onwards to join Boyce Light Up at the water scoops, and continue up to the anchor. A long draw on the last bolt on the lip, and the following bolt, will alleviate the issue of the rope getting caught on a giant flake above the roof. Permadraws mean that there are no issues cleaning the roof on loweroff, so don't be afraid to have a crack. 70m rope essential! FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Match, Simmo & Michael Moore, 15 Jul 2023 | 35m | Blue Mountains | ||
Project Simmo
The partially equipped line that continues more directly through the roof (and face above) of Bad Boyce Bad Boyce. This is still a closed project, so please stay off. Set: Simmo | Blue Mountains | ||||
25 | ★★ A Long Walk (Down a Short Pier)
Shared start with the "Backstreet Boyce" Project. Up for 3 bolts via a flake compression boulder, then step right and into the crux of reinventing the wheel. Follow bolts trending left forever. Take lots of Runners! FA: Match, Alec Eastwood & Adrian Kladnig, 15 Feb 2022 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★ Blouse Big Boyce
Head up the first two bolts of Boisterous, then continue up Big Boyce Blouse to beneath the roof (lower off a single ring). An excellent warmup. | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★★ Reinventing the Wheel (To Run Myself Over)
Follow Boyce Light Up for three bolts, then blast through a tricky rooflet (crux) then onto an awesome 25m headwall of delicious orange rock. FA: Match, Paul Frothy Thomson, Simmo & Stephen Varney, 22 Jul 2023 FFA: Match, Paul Frothy Thomson & Stephen Varney, 29 Jul 2023 | 35m | Blue Mountains | ||
26 | ★★★ Backstreet Boyce
Up the compression flake to stance, then wild moves through big roof trending left, followed by more leftwards roofing. Up orange prow above to anchor. FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 22 Jun | 20m | Blue Mountains |
Showing all 91 routes.