Routes in Mt Boyce

Far left route. Climbs steeply diagonally left to slick fused corner.

An impressive line! Shared start for several bolts with Boisterous then truck left onto arete and overhung wall above.

One of the best 23s around. Fantastic rock and nice and sustained. Shared start with Beastie Boyce then straight up the face to anchors under massive roof.

Monster roof crack, with easier moves than you might think -considering the steepness. A proper goal for any Blueys crack enthusiast.

Start up Big Boyce Blouse for 4 bolts to small stance (possible belay here), then blast upwards on gear through steepening terrain, with moves (and gear) getting more difficult as you go -culminating in a gnarly sequence at the end of the roof. 2 bolt anchor on ledge above crack, with an optional short pitch to top-out if you want.

Recommended gear is variable, as there are lots of options, placing the fiddly gear at the crux is hard, and there's a big difference between "preplaced gear" and "placing gear on lead." What follows is the FFA's gear list:

2 x 0.2; 2 x 0.3; 1 x 0.4, 1 x 0.5; 2 x 0.75; 1 x 1; 1 x 3; selection of small wires. An additional 0.4 is very useful for aiding or climbing on preplaced (but very hard to place on lead).

Head up the first two bolts of Boisterous, then continue up Big Boyce Blouse to beneath the roof (lower off a single ring). An excellent warmup.

Major corner right of Boisterous for a few bolts then climbs the right wall and through gut wrenching mega roof above. The final flake to the anchor isn’t solid, needs to be fixed.

The old Giles project. Was partially bolted with a dozen dodgy doggers for 20 years - has now been revamped and direct start added (instead of starting up Fart Flusher - although there are still a few extra RBs to let you do this link if you like).

Originally done with a stickclip and short batman past greenery but has now been freed from the ground, same grade. Three bolts up punchy start to ledge, then swing up right then back left steeply on pretty amazing holds and position.

Enjoyable adventure up a big and surprisingly overhung wall, connecting a series of flake features. Batman start just R of banksia. The white flake near the 8-9th bolts is very hollow up higher; it has a bit of chalk up it (!!) but if you don't like the idea of 50kg in the face, avoid it by staying low via good moves to the L. This route wanders and potentially creates rope drag, but this can be easily solved by: 40/60cm sling on 1st/3rd bolts; backclean 7th (& maybe 8th) bolt as you head left after the ramp; & 1-2 rollers at kneepoints. If you only have short draws, you could still do it by using double ropes.

Any further info? Not much sign of a trad route project here?

Closed Project. Up the compression flake to stance, then wild moves through big roof to anchor out left.

Shared start with the "Backstreet Boyce" Project. Up for 3 bolts via a flake compression boulder, then step right and into the crux of reinventing the wheel. Follow bolts trending left forever. Take lots of Runners!

Follow Boyce Light Up for three bolts, then blast through a tricky rooflet (crux) then onto an awesome 25m headwall of delicious orange rock.

A big bad boy. Start off cairn 20m right of Fartflusher. Up to break then head left to clip, up and back right clipping and unclipping 2 bolts to reduce rope drag (or use double ropes). Then you can attempt the crux and stunning water runnel above.

Uncertainty Pleasure meets Lipstick, with a dose of Grotto face climbing to finish. A mega roof, to a mega headwall. Proper fun!

Stick clip first bolt, then follow permadraws (permachains?) through left-leading roof flake, to crux lip-turn/traverse, onwards to join Boyce Light Up at the water scoops, and continue up to the anchor. A long draw on the last bolt on the lip, and the following bolt, will alleviate the issue of the rope getting caught on a giant flake above the roof. Permadraws mean that there are no issues cleaning the roof on loweroff, so don't be afraid to have a crack. 70m rope essential!

The partially equipped line that continues more directly through the roof (and face above) of Bad Boyce Bad Boyce. This is still a closed project, so please stay off.

Long wall with a gluey crux flake down low. There is a lot of excellent climbing in the top half out of sight from below. Take heed of the route length (70m rope mandatory). Big creaky flake at 3rd bolt needs to be fixed, avoid it while you can, then be gentle when you can’t.

Far right of the sport routes, starting right of black corner crack. Hard bouldery start through roof then long wall and roof above. The rock quality on the upper headwall out of sight from the ground is just like the Grampians!

The thin seam with obvious pin scarring and broken rock about 10m right of Little Boyce Room. Anyone with info?

Probably climbed before 2013, but when inquiries were made at the time no one knew anyone who had done it. Pitch lengths are an estimate based upon the route next door.

The obvious radical roof crack above the steep fingers splitter just left of La Nina. You can rap the route off the tree with a 70m rope.

1. 18m (25) Starts with a steep, thin finger crack to a ledge then up through a stellar horizontal roof crack, turn the lip and finish on the comfy ledge. Two carrots with perma hangers and biners for the belay. AWESOME climbing, funky moves. Classic.

2. 25m (21) Follows some old carrots (backed up by and supplemented with gear) straight up from the belay (exciting). An interesting mixed pitch at the grade that ends in a brilliant splitter crack. Belay off single very old carrot backed up with some gear or link into the next pitch.

3. 15m (21) Up through bulge on dirty and questionable rock then step left to finish on snappy, steep, orange rock with a number of hand placed bash in stainless carrots. Belay off trees on top.

The really good looking clean crack at the far right hand end above the rope access. Best to do the short pitches otherwise the 2nd faces ropestretch groundfall potential on the first crux, or the leader faces ropestretch ledgefall potential on the last crux.

1. 18m (22) Awesome finger crack to massive comfy ledge. It's possible to walk 5m left (roped up) along the ledge and rap off anchors on Iron Curtain if you wish.

2. 25m (17) Ok climbing on average rock, the pro is acceptable but will keep you thinking. Belay beneath roof on gear and optional carrot.

3. 15m (21) Burly roof crack then nice easy diagonal corner crack (obviously seen from Boronia). Belay off tree/s.

The routes in this area are listed right to left as you come to them.

First bolt removed pending rebolt.. Doubt this will ever happen.

Start: This and the next 2 routes share a common start.

Lower off single bolt!

On dark orange face halfway down abseilers' track where it touches right side of gully.

First pitch trad, second pitch rings and carrots.

Mostly trad with four ring bolts. "If you fall off the top you may strip all the gear".

Starts just left of blunt arete below the vague headwall flake/crack. You should be able to see an old biner on the second bolt. Climb 30m or so of moderate, very runout, weird, grit stone slabbing past two bolts and some very questionable trad to a small stance. From here boulder past two more bolts and steel yourself for the final run up the incipient flake feature on some average gear. Finishes at DBB above little roof, either rap 60m back to the ground or scramble off right.

You can access the top of this route for pre-inspection (recommended) by walking to the commercial abseiling spot with rungs and 10000 sets of anchors and setting up on the left most ones (looking in). Run the rope through the buses to the climbers left of the main abseil route and you should be able to abseil diagonally left to find the bolts at the top.

3 pitches, fully bolted.

Start: Follow abseilers track down the gully, past the big cave. Continue around on L hand side of gully (facing out) to the implement straight out of mad max

Right hand end of wall.. Up and traverse left staying low on traverse. Continue up to anchor.

Very thin crux but good feet, make them work.

Funky thin move climbing over a flake start with a juggy top.

Tricky boulder off the ground then easy climbing.

Shared start and first move with A Bird in the Bush, then hard traverse right and up delightful scoopy features. 2nd bolt is a tough clip if you are short. Use the anchor of Bird in a Bush over on the left (hard to clean from).

One of the best here. Same start as Reagonomics then take the left line up scoops.

Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.

Blunt arete 4m to the right of BB&B.

Boulder and pocket pulling test piece, well traveled but still sharp.

Now with proper lower off. 12/12

dodgy dnya bolt, dont clip this!!! clip the fat ring bolt to the right!!

Start: start 4 meters left of beaten bullied and buggered

a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs.

Start: 15 meters right of mr september.

Far left hand route.

35m left of 'Abseil Slab'.

Start: Slab.

Start: 20 left of AS.

Start: Ledge to the right of the descent ladder remnants.

Start: 3m right of AS.

Start: Arête right of F&J.

Originally done in 3 pitches.

Start: Wall right of AC.

One of the best and most traveled easy routes in the mountains - great rock and exposure. Can be done as one big pitch with a couple of slings. Start on blocks at base of grey slab beneath Eyrie belay cave.

1. 30m (12) Slab past cams to ring bolt (possible belay), left to arete, past another FH and up to the unique bolted belay cave. 2 bolts plus single rack of cams (Camalot 0.5-4)

2. 15m (12) Out left hand side of cave via steep, exposed moves to FH. Up left side of arete and back onto main face to find old RB. Top out for carrot belay set back from the edge, or DRB on the boulder further back.

Traverse.

Start: As for the Eyrie. Belay after 25m.

1. 25m (-)

2. 35m (14) Down, then right past carrot to belay on SI.

3. 40m (14) Around nose, across TC and AfW to belay in CC.

4. 25m (9) Finish up CC.

Start: To the right of E. Straight up nice slab aiming for the brief vague corner a metre or two right of the Eyrie's belay cave. Straight up this and into jugs above.

A remarkable juggy headwall on the 2nd pitch. Start 2m right of AMJ below bolt at 5m. Single set of cams required.

1. 20m 2 bolts and spaced trad to double bolt belay.

2. 30m Continue up wall and slightly overhung orange jugs above (6 bolts).

Start: Centre of the 'Black Wall'. Straight up with 'creative' pro to an airy finish.

Possibly never repeated.

Start: 'Arete' and black slab right of giant roof.

The first climb at Mt.Boyce.

Start: 6m right of BS.

1. 27m (12) Corner to lip, left and up to second lip.

2. 27m (12) Slightly left through bulge to top.

Start: Wall to the right of OE.

1. 9m (-) Wall to ledge and triple bolt belay

2. 40m (10) Left up wall, slight recess and nose to tree belay.

Start: 3m right of SI.

1. 24m (8) Corner, face to ledge under overhang.

2. 35m (8) Corner, right, back to corner and up.

Gum tree and bollard for anchors.

Start: 'Arete' 2m right.

1. 24m (-) 'Arete' to belay 3m left on block.

2. 36m (13) Onto arete, then up right side on steep wall. Back to arete, through overhang to top.

15m (20 trad + carrots). Pull through the steep stuff and struggle onto the wall. A couple of good wires here or just run it out 5m to the next carrot then pumpilly up. Take big bolt plates as the carrot heads haven't been filed.

Start: Starts on the ledge above the big overhang on the north side of 'Abseil Gully'. Rap in (use a second rope) from the large expanse of bare rock off three carrots, clipping in to carrots on the way down. Put on clean undies. Belay on double rings.

The line of FHs up the L side of the Afghan Wall face. Links up with Endless Pleasure in a Limousine just beneath the overhang and shares the same anchors. Unfortunately for the last 15m it is a retrobolt of Atlantis.

The line of ringbolts at the initials "AW". Almost this entire route is a retrobolt of Afghan Wall. Links up with Sweet Seduction in a Magazine just beneath the overhang. WARNING: the ringbolts are not recessed.

Start: Start 9m right of A at initials "AW".

1. 23m (14) Up wall to belay 6m below ledge on orange wall. This has now been retrobolted with about 1000 shitty rings.

2. 40m (14) Left, up to second ledge. Right 9m, then up on black wall.

4m right of Afghan Wall. Gear, BR's and FH's.Thru roof at top.

3m right of WOMD nearly at KO start. gear and BR's and FH's

Start: 5m right again.

Start: 3 - 5m left of the corner.

Start: The corner. 2 pitches.

Traverse!

Start: To CC belay. Traverse right to finish up Shisenhousen.

Start: As for AA to top of pedestal then to top.

Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB.

2m left of FITG. Batman start to jugs and FH's and BR's to Girl in The Mirror end. At least 9 bolt plates required.

Very hard undercut start for 22 - best to batman to first bolt. It's grade 20 past this to top - numerous old bolts.

1. Pitch 1 (**22) is sport, 4 rings to DBB. Highball boulder problem to the first bolt, stick clip if not up to it!

2. Pitch 2 is trad 15, with one carrot at the top. Most people skip pitch 2 and step R to do Mean Streak pitch 2 instead.

Links the best parts of 2 routes and makes for one of the best at the grade in the Bluies. Pitch 1 of The Girl in the Mirror, then Pitch 2 of Mean Streak and finish for the 22. It can easily be linked into a single pitch with a few longer draws. The second may hit the ground if they fall off with rope stretch. There are two rusty carrots at the end of the pitch 1.5m to the left of a single bolt. If choosing to climb as two pitches you would be better off using a cam with the single bolt to build an anchor over the rusty carrots. Triple FH's at top. Rebolted 2018.

Great second pitch. When combined with 1st pitch of GitM you have a 3 star classic.

Start: Start 10m right of GitM.

1. 25m (20) Lots of rambling, rolling and mantling. Not classic but is apparently worth doing. Trad and carrots.

2. 25m (21) Up black streak. Mostly bolts but there's an optional small cam down low, plus a medium cam and wire up high to avoid an 8m runout to the final carrot.

Mega mixed affair. Shared start with Mean Streak for 8m then direct up the orange wall. The upper half of this route takes the prime central streak of orange rock and the hanging prow above, so it's gotta be good! Take heaps of cams, including doubles of #3 and #4 Camalots and many slings. The route bails left into Mean Streak, up for 2m then back right into the line again in the middle section. Rebolted 2018.

Start: As for FH, then left to black streak and up.

Start: A few metres right of GitM. On ledge at big block.

1. 27m (-) Up right to ledge on left of pedestal below arete.

2. 14m (19) Up right 3m and up below semi-circular overhang. Left to cave then up to belay.

3. 18m (-) Left then up and out.

Start: 9m right of FH.

1. 9m (10) face to ledge.

2. 24m (10) Wall & corner, right to ledge. Up tending right to stance.

3. 35m (10) Up right to top.

Start: Corner & chimney 30m right.

1. 40m (13) Take the line. 6m left at top. Then slab to tree belay?

2. 15m (13) Left and up.

Start: V groove with chockstone.

Start: Corner 12m right of TG.

1. 37m (14 M1) Corner to loose block.Aid roof.

2. 6m (14 M3) Aid crack then free to ledge.

3. 18m (14) Crack.

Start: 9m right again.

Gritstone climbing on perfect rock. The beautiful orange arete 50m left of One Of The Best.

Start: Start off tree at right end of slab.

1. 25m (23) Thin traverse left to the arete then ecstatically up. The rounded arete leads to some beautifully polished scoops. Pull past these and make some thin moves to gain the flake above. Go straight up (bolt added Jan 07). Rap off double rings.

2. 28m (23) Traverse the holdless footledge then try to find the holds on the slab above. Up the arete and up the bulge past the eggs.

3. 15m (20) Through the bulge to anchors at the top of the cliff. You can also rap in this way.

This and the next 2 routes are from the good old days.

Start: Chimney left of Haggis (probably between Master's Eggs and One of the Best).

1. 27m (9) Scrub to chimney.

2. 30m (9) Ramps to back of chimney, traverse left, chockstone, then up through hole in roof.

3. 12m (9) 'Small' slab.

An absolutely awesome line. Do it in one monster 45m pitch or double rings semi-hanging belay half way up. No cams necessary any more. Rap twice or tow a second rope, though its hard enough doing the thin top crux with the full weight of one rope. A 65m rope permits lowering and retying at the first belay. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread. Rebolted by Martin Pircher (top) and Roger Bourne (bottom) (2002-2004) with permission from GB/JS.

Start: Start in the middle of the impressive wall 200m left of Spoilt Brats.

1. 26m (26) Up easy stuff and left under roof, up flake and through bulge to belay.

2. 30m (25) Right to thin crack, up it, then right to arete and up.

Orthopaedic more likely by all accounts. Megan Turnbull had to build a cairn on a ledge by rope-hauling stones up one by one. Rap twice or take two ropes. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread

Start: Start to the right of One Of The Best.

1. 25m (24) Follow the dots... to a double bolt belay.

2. 25m (24) Towards the top of the second pitch think about the name of the climb and grope around for a "hold" in a place you wouldnt expect to find one.

Crack to piton (god knows what condition it is in)! then crack.

Start: Approx. 30m right of F. This makes it the vegetated corner between Plastic Sturgeon and Cats in the Cradle.

This three pitch bolted route ascends the dark grey slab between Plastic Sturgeon and 'Jugantor'.

Start: Starts at the bottom left of the slab, just right of a vegetated diagonal crack/ramp.

1. 20m (17) Awkward start from horizontal tree trunk just above the track. Up trending right for 10m to gain break with hands, then traverse right for 10m to DRB in large horizontal break. 9 RB to hanging belay.

2. 25m (19) Toughish face moves for a few metres, then the angle eases to a thin slab, with a very balancy crux 3/4 way up. 'Trust' your feet! 10 RB to DRB belay on good stance.

3. 8m (16) Up trending right to bulge with large ironstone flakes, over bulge then easily up. 5 RB to DRB on good ledge.

"An excellent route" (Kyle D.)

Start: Start to the right of the corner with the grey slab.

1. 20m (23) Pull up onto into the groove and traverse bizzarely left 10m then up wall. Falling seconds may be lost in space so consider bringing prussics.

2. 15m (23) Head on up the perfect grey rock.

3. 30m (24) A Wee bit tricky getting up the slab and then down across it. Don't wear slippers !. 'Steep' jugging follows. Belay on rings on a ledge about 2m below the top.