Routes in Walk-Down Gully

Situated to the left of the gully coming down.

Start: Large crack/chimney inside the gully. Marked D.

1. 20m (11) Up crack and left to cavern.

2. 15m (11) Up chimney then right to ledge. Up 5m wall to top. Traverse around boulder and walk off.

Start: Ramp. Then up.

1. 20m (14) Follow aesthetic crack up to belay stance. DBB.

2. 30m Not really worth doing. Head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. 50m rap to ground. BRs and anchor replaced August 2017.

Up left side of arete. Take small cams and a set of nuts for the bottom, 4BR's at top. DBB.

Rebolted May 2007

1. Start as for PIS, right into fantastic corner and up around the slight rooflet. Go left under bulge at top to anchors as for Gently Mine.

2. Not really worth doing. Head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. 50m rap to ground. Rebolted August 2017.

A perspective from the one of the first ascentionist, Keith Bell. From a slight online interview conducted, Keith had the following to share with the world about the first ascent of this beautiful climb:

I was keen on Greek and Roman History/Myths and the Gates of Janus refer to a temple with two doors. I think they were opened when Rome was at war and closed in peace time. A Janus Head is also two joined heads looking in different directions. I think the name came to me because a) it sounds good and b) The climb lies at the bottom of an access gully.

Recently I wrote the following: By the start of 1970, a few climbing goals had been kicked and others had arisen to take their place. In the Warrumbungles, Howard Bevan and I had made the fourth ascent of Lieben, and the first ascent of the Gates of Janus at Mt Boyce. Rather stupidly this ascent was made in the first wear of my first pair of friction boots, a pair of RD’s that featured brown suede leather uppers and bright red laces. The rubber on the sole was case hardened and since it had not been roughed up made the layback up the corner a very slippery affair. The ascent was also cam and hexcentric free leaving the only large protection available, the extruded aluminium hexagonal chunks that were fashioned and sold by John Ewbank.

Start: Ledge 10m right of GoJ.

1. 11m (20) Thin crack then left to mantle.

2. 26m (20) Crack, overhang, right and up to cave.

3. 27m (20) 'Steep' wall left of cave.

Start: Crack to the right.

Possibly the route marked with a square only.

Start 10m left of Charlie Brown on slabby face - very faint square and PP just visible on rock.

P1 - up slab to large ledge with dead trees (30m) P2 - up face on jugs to top. (30m)

Take care on the top pitch, rock quality is iffy

A slab with little pro. Start on wall 10m left of Pig Pen

P1 Up wall and slab to large ledge (30m) P2 Up on jugs o top (24m)

Marked PP.

P1. Overgrown Chimney to ledge.

P2. Up left from ledge, then trend right along slab following the crack to top. Walk out.

Take lots of slings. All natural anchors.

A super fun and technical little route around the corner from the main stuff. Mostly carrots but take a no. 2 or 3 camalot for the start. DBB at top.

1. 30m Start at crack and up to bolt.

2. 20m

Marked S.

1. 18m

2. 15m

3. 30m

1. 34m Up the corner then into the chimney.

2. 30m up arête.

1. 15m

2. 18m

3. 37m