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Routes in Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall

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Showing all 25 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 Sweet Seduction in a Magazine

The line of FHs up the L side of the Afghan Wall face. Links up with Endless Pleasure in a Limousine just beneath the overhang and shares the same anchors. Unfortunately for the last 15m it is a retrobolt of Atlantis.

FA: unknown

Sport 50m, 14
16 Endless Pleasure in a Limousine

The line of ringbolts at the initials "AW". Almost this entire route is a retrobolt of Afghan Wall. Links up with Sweet Seduction in a Magazine just beneath the overhang. WARNING: the ringbolts are not recessed.

FA: G Oliver & J Corkins

Sport 47m, 14
14 R Afghan Wall

Start: Start 9m right of A at initials "AW".

  1. 23m (14) Up wall to belay 6m below ledge on orange wall. This has now been retrobolted with about 1000 shitty rings.

  2. 40m (14) Left, up to second ledge. Right 9m, then up on black wall.

FA: P.Jenkins & R.Lassman, 1967

Mixed trad 63m, 2, 4
13 Afghan Wall (Variant)
Unknown 65m
20 Weapons of Mass Deception

4m right of Afghan Wall. Gear, BR's and FH's.Thru roof at top.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

Mixed trad 45m, 8
20 Compassion Overboard

3m right of WOMD nearly at KO start. gear and BR's and FH's

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

Mixed trad 45m, 8
18 Kabul Offensive

Start: 5m right again.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1984

Trad 50m
17 Khyber Pass

Start: 3 - 5m left of the corner.

FA: A.Penney & D.Magro, 1985

Trad 48m
9 Canadian Corner

Start: The corner. 2 pitches.

FA: G.Owens, J.Wilson & L.Muzzatti, 1967

Trad 58m
14 R Aussie Apricot

Traverse!

Start: To CC belay. Traverse right to finish up Shisenhousen.

FA: P.Webber & M.Moore, 1979

Trad 110m
15 R Russian Roulette

Start: As for AA to top of pedestal then to top.

FA: McMahon & Stallery, 1977

Trad 40m
19 Caconofix

Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB.

FA: G Short & W Williams

Sport 50m
21 Querilous Journey

2m left of FITG. Batman start to jugs and FH's and BR's to Girl in The Mirror end. At least 9 bolt plates required.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

Sport 40m
22 Flaws in the Glass

Very hard undercut start for 22 - best to batman to first bolt. It's grade 20 past this to top - numerous old bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

Trad 50m
22 The Girl in the Mirror
1 22
2 15
  1. Pitch 1 (**22) is sport, 4 rings to DBB. Highball boulder problem to the first bolt, stick clip if not up to it!

  2. Pitch 2 is trad 15, with one carrot at the top. Most people skip pitch 2 and step R to do Mean Streak pitch 2 instead.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1984

Mixed trad 45m, 2, 5
22 Girl in the Mirror - Mean Streak Linkup

Links the best parts of 2 routes and makes for one of the best at the grade in the Bluies. Pitch 1 of The Girl in the Mirror, then Pitch 2 of Mean Streak and finish for the 22. It can easily be linked into a single pitch with a few longer draws. The second may hit the ground if they fall off with rope stretch. There are two rusty carrots at the end of the pitch 1.5m to the left of a single bolt. If choosing to climb as two pitches you would be better off using a cam with the single bolt to build an anchor over the rusty carrots. Triple FH's at top. Rebolted 2018.

Sport 45m, 2, 13
21 Mean Streak
1 20 25m
2 21 25m

Great second pitch. When combined with 1st pitch of GitM you have a 3 star classic.

Start: Start 10m right of GitM.

  1. 25m (20) Lots of rambling, rolling and mantling. Not classic but is apparently worth doing. Trad and carrots.

  2. 25m (21) Up black streak. Mostly bolts but there's an optional small cam down low, plus a medium cam and wire up high to avoid an 8m runout to the final carrot.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

Mixed trad 50m, 2, 10
23 The End of the Affair

Mega mixed affair. Shared start with Mean Streak for 8m then direct up the orange wall. The upper half of this route takes the prime central streak of orange rock and the hanging prow above, so it's gotta be good! Take heaps of cams, including doubles of #3 and #4 Camalots and many slings. The route bails left into Mean Streak, up for 2m then back right into the line again in the middle section. Rebolted 2018.

FA: G.Child, A.Prehn & J.Smoothy, 1989

Mixed trad 50m, 6
24 Fille de Joie

Start: As for FH, then left to black streak and up.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Child, 1989

Mixed trad 56m, 6
19 Free Hungary

Start: A few metres right of GitM. On ledge at big block.

  1. 27m (-) Up right to ledge on left of pedestal below arete.

  2. 14m (19) Up right 3m and up below semi-circular overhang. Left to cave then up to belay.

  3. 18m (-) Left then up and out.

FA: J.Worrall & R.Lassman, 1967

Trad 60m, 3
10 Schisenhousen

Start: 9m right of FH.

  1. 9m (10) face to ledge.

  2. 24m (10) Wall & corner, right to ledge. Up tending right to stance.

  3. 35m (10) Up right to top.

FA: G.Owens & M.Clarbourgh, 1967

Trad 68m, 3
13 R Exit The Dragon

Start: Corner & chimney 30m right.

  1. 40m (13) Take the line. 6m left at top. Then slab to tree belay?

  2. 15m (13) Left and up.

FA: J.Croker, 1974

Trad 55m, 2
16 The Grasper

Start: V groove with chockstone.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Fantini, 2000

Trad 43m
14 M4 The Groper

Start: Corner 12m right of TG.

  1. 37m (14 M1) Corner to loose block.Aid roof.

  2. 6m (14 M3) Aid crack then free to ledge.

  3. 18m (14) Crack.

FA: W.Williams & R.Vining, 2000

Trad 70m, 3
M5 The Grunter

Start: 9m right again.

FA: B.Postill & P.Edwards, 1972

Aid 58m

Showing all 25 routes.

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