Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown | |||||
13 | ★★ Afghan Wall (Variant)
| 65m | Blue Mountains | ||
project | Project (Mark)
| Blue Mountains | |||
24 | ★ Sorcerer
FA: Ian Geatches | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
project | Open Project (Frey)
| Blue Mountains | |||
10 | Kite Eater
Possibly the route marked with a square only. | 61m | Blue Mountains | ||
18 | ★★ Penny Arcade P's 2 and 3 only
FA: Niall Doherty & Roger Bourne, 2007 | 36m | Blue Mountains | ||
Trad | |||||
20 | Almost Famous
First pitch trad, second pitch rings and carrots. FA: D.White & D.Tweedie | 45m, 2, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
20 | ★★ Say Cheese for High n Wild
Grey face with two bolts 6m left of Fire Bug. Double ropes or long runners useful to optimize the trad gear. FA: A.Duckworth & W.Monks, 1998 | 36m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
20 | Olympic Trivia
| 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ The End of the Affair
Mega mixed affair. Shared start with Mean Streak for 8m then direct up the orange wall. The upper half of this route takes the prime central streak of orange rock and the hanging prow above, so it's gotta be good! Take heaps of cams, including doubles of #3 and #4 Camalots and many slings. The route bails left into Mean Streak, up for 2m then back right into the line again in the middle section. Rebolted 2018. FA: G.Child, A.Prehn & J.Smoothy, 1989 | 50m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug
1
17
22m
2
17
10m
3
17
25m
4
14
6m
Blue Mountains trad multi-pitch classic (with zero bolts!). This is the major corner system just left of the steep orange buttress. Gets sun by 8:30am in winter. Original pitches are described here, but it’s better to combine pitches 1 & 2, and 3 & 4. Note that the topo above greatly foreshortens all but the first pitch.
FA: John Ewbank & John Fantini | 63m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
18 | Professional Fat Lamb Man
| 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
21 | ★★★ Mean Streak
1
20
25m
2
21
25m
Great second pitch. When combined with 1st pitch of GitM you have a 3 star classic. Start: Start 10m right of GitM.
FA: J.Smoothy, 1984 | 50m, 2, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
17 | Scruffocide
35m left of 'Abseil Slab'. Start: Slab. FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1984 | 18m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★ Museum of Fire
| 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
24 | ★★ Fille de Joie
Start: As for FH, then left to black streak and up. FA: J.Smoothy & G.Child, 1989 | 56m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
17 | ★ Sleepwalk for the Low Time
Listed as "Sleepwalk for the Last Time" in the 2015 Carter guide, but that route was done 10 years earlier, is 5 grades harder, and it's traverse is 10-15m higher. Now listed separately as they sound like very different routes.
FFA: C Martin & J Smoothy, 1995 | 50m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
17 | Aceldama
Start: 20 left of AS. FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1984 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
13 | Lucy
FA: L.Smith & G.Wurth, 1967 | 64m | Blue Mountains | ||
19 | Free Hungary
Start: A few metres right of GitM. On ledge at big block.
FA: J.Worrall & R.Lassman, 1967 | 60m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★★★ Iron Curtain
Probably climbed before 2013, but when inquiries were made at the time no one knew anyone who had done it. Pitch lengths are an estimate based upon the route next door. The obvious radical roof crack above the steep fingers splitter just left of La Nina. You can rap the route off the tree with a 70m rope.
FFA: James Castrission & Hugh Ward, 2013 | 58m, 3, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
7 | Abseil Slab
Start: Ledge to the right of the descent ladder remnants. FA: G.Owens, M.Clarbourgh & B.Shirley, 1967 | 34m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | Bonnieville
Start: First pitch as for Manx.
FA: G.Wurth & B.Postill, 1972 | 64m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | Woodstock
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ||
10 | Schisenhousen
Start: 9m right of FH.
FA: G.Owens & M.Clarbourgh, 1967 | 68m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
19 | Frank and Joe
Start: 3m right of AS. FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1984 | 17m | Blue Mountains | ||
21 | Half Life
Right hand side of the gully coming down. Start: Streno crack, overhung corner and roof to top. FA: M.Law & A.Penney, 1977 | 35m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | Schroeder
| 90m | Blue Mountains | ||
13 R | Exit The Dragon
Start: Corner & chimney 30m right.
FA: J.Croker, 1974 | 55m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
8 | ★ Abseil Arete
Start: Arête right of F&J. FA: G.Owens, M.Clarbourgh & B.Shirley, 1967 | 30m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
19 | ★★ Thruxton
1
19
27m
2
30m
3m right of VHRD. Belay 10m left of Goldstar on the ledge. 1x carrot bolt and small gear to set up a belay. A great sustained layback corner, most people just climb the first pitch to the chain.
FA: Bryden Allen † & W.Williams, 1972 | 57m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
13 | Passion Vine Hopper
| 43m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
19 | Realised Ultimate Reality Gumboot
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | The Grasper
Start: V groove with chockstone. FA: J.Ewbank & J.Fantini, 2000 | 43m | Blue Mountains | ||
11 | ★ Abseil Corner
Originally done in 3 pitches. FA: G.Owens, B.Smith & J.Millar, 1967 | 34m | Blue Mountains | ||
18 | Cow Chaser
Start as for Manx/Bonnieville then follow the carrots up the wall and over the boulder/roof at the top. Take small cams, a medium wire, and a #3 Camalot or similar for the start FA: Farty Paul & R Bourne FA: Paul Turner & R Bourne, 2004 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
21 | ★★★ Vincent HRD
30m left of the 'Gully'. 15m further left on the Goldstar ledge with a belay carrot bolt. Traverse out to the line and up to the stellar diagonal hand jam crack to the chain belay on Thruxton. One of the best single pitch trad routes at Mt Boyce. FA: P.Jenkins, K.Joyce & B.Postill, 1972 FFA: John Smoothy, 1983 | 28m | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | Eeyore
| 70m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 M4 | The Groper
Start: Corner 12m right of TG.
FA: W.Williams & R.Vining, 2000 | 70m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
15 R | ★ Eagle Wall
Start: Wall right of AC. FA: B.Postill & G.Wurth, 1969 | 40m | Blue Mountains | ||
12 | ★★ Air2Spare
Rap-in climb out route. Rap anchor located in the cave about 10m right (facing out) of the top of Goldstar. Abseil 35m tending slightly left (facing cliff) clipping in to carrots on the way down. Double ring belay on a grey nose about 20m above ground. Take care not to abseil past the belay as ascent may be highly problematic and your rope probably won't reach the ground. Take medium wires, slings, large hexes, and a few medium cams. (Or just bolt plates and run it out). FA: Susan Hoernlein & Paul Turner, 2004 | 35m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
15 | Piglet
| 79m | Blue Mountains | ||
12 | ★★ The Eyrie
1
12
30m
2
12
15m
One of the best and most traveled easy routes in the mountains - great rock and exposure. Can be done as one big pitch with a couple of slings. Start on blocks at base of grey slab beneath Eyrie belay cave.
FA: J Worral & H Ward, 1969 | 45m, 2, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | Manx
Start as for VHRD.
FA: B.Postill & P.Edwards, 1972 | 64m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
18 | ★★★ Gold Star
1
16
30m
2
18
28m
FA: Bryden Allen † & R.Lassman, 1972 | 58m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
18 | ★ El Matador
| 92m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Loitering With Intent
1
25m
2
14
35m
3
14
40m
4
9
25m
Traverse. Start: As for the Eyrie. Belay after 25m.
FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1985 | 130m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★★ Gold Star Pitch 1
FA: Bryden Allen † & Ray Lassman | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | El Cid
| 100m | Blue Mountains | ||
15 | ★★ Another Man's Juliet
Start: To the right of E. Straight up nice slab aiming for the brief vague corner a metre or two right of the Eyrie's belay cave. Straight up this and into jugs above. FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1984 | 48m, 2, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | El Zorro
| 57m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★★ Set, Piece, Battle
A remarkable juggy headwall on the 2nd pitch. Start 2m right of AMJ below bolt at 5m. Single set of cams required.
FA: A.Penney, P.Martland & J.Smoothy, 1985 | 50m, 2, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
15 | ★ Wizard of Id
| 98m | Blue Mountains | ||
13 | ★ Bonnie Scotland
Start: Centre of the 'Black Wall'. Straight up with 'creative' pro to an airy finish. FA: M.Clarbourgh, B.Shirley & G.Owens, 1967 | 53m | Blue Mountains | ||
11 | ★ Diversion
Situated to the left of the gully coming down. Start: Large crack/chimney inside the gully. Marked D.
FA: W.Williams & P.Giles, 1972 | 35m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | This Ain't Gardening
Possibly never repeated. Start: 'Arete' and black slab right of giant roof. FA: R.Young & M.Portman, 1994 | 45m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Roughly Yours
Start: Ramp. Then up. FA: G.Wurth & J.Wurth, 1972 | 61m | Blue Mountains | ||
12 M2 | Fair Maiden Gwen
| 60m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 M1 | ★★ Sisters of Mercy
Superseded by the Spoilt Mercy Linkup but listed here for historical value (and maybe the aid move can go free for someone so inclined?) Gain the ledge a few metres left of Spoilt Brats' 1st belay, either from Spoilt Brats, or by unprotected bridging for 8m up between the blank wall and tree (!). Follow three old carrots up the blank face (aid on the 2nd one to bypass blankness) then join into ringbolts up face left of Spoilt Brats. FA: G.Bradbury, 1987 | 30m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ||
Mystery Mega Flake
Striking flake crack splitting impressive orange wall, about 15m right of the Mystery Slab. Possibly a couple of bolts up above the flake crack. Not immediately obvious how you get to base of flake crack section - probably a traverse in from the right? | 50m | Blue Mountains | |||
12 | ★ Old England
The first climb at Mt.Boyce. Start: 6m right of BS.
FA: M.Clarbourgh & G.Owens, 1967 | 55m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
Project
Any further info? Not much sign of a trad route project here? FA: Giles/Lloyd, 2000 | Blue Mountains | ||||
23 | ★ The Wages of Sin
FA: J.Smoothy & C.Martin, 1984 | 50m | Blue Mountains | ||
8 | Blanch
| 46m | Blue Mountains | ||
21 | ★★★ Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks
One of the best routes at this grade in the whole Blue Mountains. Tackles the disconnected flake system up the centre of this awesome wall. Traditionally this route was led as a multi-pitch, with an initial awkward short trad pitch leading to a semi-hanging belay 10m off the ground. These days there is a bolted direct at grade 16 that allows pitches 1 & 2 to be combined when using a 60m rope and makes it 99% a sport route (compulsory #1 Camalot in the flake). No one does the garbage last pitch.
FFA: john smoothy mike law, 1984 FA: C.Martin & A.Penney, 1984 | 57m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
10 | ★ Sweet Irish
1
9m
2
10
40m
Start: Wall to the right of OE.
FA: L.Smith & B.Postill, 1967 | 49m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★★ Gently Mine
FA: L Smith & W Williams | 50m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
13 | P.P.P.P.
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Infant Terror
You need some trad for the section shared with SBaGA, after that it's all RBs. This route is set up to be done in 3 pitches, but is easily reduced to 2 pitches, or even just 1 pitch if you work out the admin (tie into both ends & drop one after the traverse, 70m rope minimum, 80m rope better). It's critical to avoid the rope-eating flake on SBaGA, if it gets your rope you can't continue (either a short roller draw on 2nd bolt above the flake, or heaps of extenders and back-flicking the rope). It'd be good if someone could bring a spanner to remove the 2 ugly coach screws below the traverse.
FA: A.Duckworth & P.Quach, 2002 | 45m, 3, 16 | Blue Mountains | ||
8 | ★ Tongan Corner
1
8
24m
2
8
35m
Start: 3m right of SI.
Gum tree and bollard for anchors. FA: G.Owens, J.Wilson & L.Muzzatti, 1967 | 59m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
20 | Navel Excavator
15m (20 trad + carrots). Pull through the steep stuff and struggle onto the wall. A couple of good wires here or just run it out 5m to the next carrot then pumpilly up. Take big bolt plates as the carrot heads haven't been filed. Start: Starts on the ledge above the big overhang on the north side of 'Abseil Gully'. Rap in (use a second rope) from the large expanse of bare rock off three carrots, clipping in to carrots on the way down. Put on clean undies. Belay on double rings. FA: Smoothy & Bourne, 2005 | 15m, 1 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★ Divide and Dissolve
FA: C.Martin, J.Smoothy & G.James, 1985 | 45m | Blue Mountains | ||
13 | Gronk
| 70m | Blue Mountains | ||
13 | ★ Atlantis
Start: 'Arete' 2m right.
FA: B.Postill & B.Crouch, 1969 | 60m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
18 | Kamikaze
| 61m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 M0 | ★ Sleepwalk for the Last Time
This original version is mainly characterised by being a half-height traverse of the wall from Spoilt Brats left to the arête.
FA: C Martin & C Peisker, 1984 | 72m, 3, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ Spoilt Mercy (Link-up)
The free version of Sisters of Mercy linking the initial flake of Spoilt Brats into the top headwall of Sisters of Mercy via a thin traverse left. Simply brilliant sustained climbing on incredible rock. Mostly all ringbolts - but requires a #1 Camalot for the opening flake and a #2 and #3 for the headwall. Now has it's own lower-off. Long runners useful. | 32m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★★★ Shock And Awe
Start: QUICK ACCESS TO P2: Climb spikes 20m left of Superbug/Firebug and then traverse left 15m to get to the start of P2. ORIGINAL ACCESS: Traverse in around ledge at the bottom of 'Solo Gully'. This is easy but a bit scarey. Can be protected with a couple of medium cams. Belay on double rings
FA: R Bourne, 2003 | 75m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★★★ The Gates of Janus
A perspective from the one of the first ascentionist, Keith Bell. From a slight online interview conducted, Keith had the following to share with the world about the first ascent of this beautiful climb: I was keen on Greek and Roman History/Myths and the Gates of Janus refer to a temple with two doors. I think they were opened when Rome was at war and closed in peace time. A Janus Head is also two joined heads looking in different directions. I think the name came to me because a) it sounds good and b) The climb lies at the bottom of an access gully. Recently I wrote the following: By the start of 1970, a few climbing goals had been kicked and others had arisen to take their place. In the Warrumbungles, Howard Bevan and I had made the fourth ascent of Lieben, and the first ascent of the Gates of Janus at Mt Boyce. Rather stupidly this ascent was made in the first wear of my first pair of friction boots, a pair of RD’s that featured brown suede leather uppers and bright red laces. The rubber on the sole was case hardened and since it had not been roughed up made the layback up the corner a very slippery affair. The ascent was also cam and hexcentric free leaving the only large protection available, the extruded aluminium hexagonal chunks that were fashioned and sold by John Ewbank. FA: K Bell & H Bevan | 50m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | Phillip's Climb
| 55m | Blue Mountains | ||
20 R | Took Crook
Start: Ledge 10m right of GoJ.
FFA: K.Bell, G.Mortimer (, J. Morgan, Bryden Allen † & W.Williams), 1972 | 64m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
12 | The Fruits of War
| 36m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 R | ★ Afghan Wall
Start: Start 9m right of A at initials "AW".
FA: P.Jenkins & R.Lassman, 1967 | 63m, 2, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
15 | Sally
Start: Crack to the right. FA: G. Wurth & J.Wurth, 1972 | 43m | Blue Mountains | ||
12 | The Chimney
| 26m | Blue Mountains | ||
25 | ★★★ Harbinger
Monster roof crack, with easier moves than you might think -considering the steepness. A proper goal for any Blueys crack enthusiast. Start up Big Boyce Blouse for 4 bolts to small stance (possible belay here), then blast upwards on gear through steepening terrain, with moves (and gear) getting more difficult as you go -culminating in a gnarly sequence at the end of the roof. 2 bolt anchor on ledge above crack, with an optional short pitch to top-out if you want. Recommended gear is variable, as there are lots of options, placing the fiddly gear at the crux is hard, and there's a big difference between "preplaced gear" and "placing gear on lead." What follows is the FFA's gear list: 2 x 0.2; 2 x 0.3; 1 x 0.4, 1 x 0.5; 2 x 0.75; 1 x 1; 1 x 3; selection of small wires. An additional 0.4 is very useful for aiding or climbing on preplaced (but very hard to place on lead). FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Match, Simmo & Michael Moore | 50m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
20 | ★★ Weapons of Mass Deception
4m right of Afghan Wall. Gear, BR's and FH's.Thru roof at top. FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort | 45m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
12 | Never Below the Navel
| 45m | Blue Mountains | ||
20 | ★★ Compassion Overboard
3m right of WOMD nearly at KO start. gear and BR's and FH's FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort | 45m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
13 R | Irk-Err-Drab
Crack to piton (god knows what condition it is in)! then crack. Start: Approx. 30m right of F. This makes it the vegetated corner between Plastic Sturgeon and Cats in the Cradle. FA: G.Wurth & B.Postill, 1969 | 60m | Blue Mountains | ||
9 | Peppermint Pattie
Start 10m left of Charlie Brown on slabby face - very faint square and PP just visible on rock. P1 - up slab to large ledge with dead trees (30m) P2 - up face on jugs to top. (30m) Take care on the top pitch, rock quality is iffy FA: B Postill & B. Smith, 1968 | 61m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
6 | Below the Navel
| 19m | Blue Mountains | ||
18 | ★ Kabul Offensive
Start: 5m right again. FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1984 | 50m | Blue Mountains | ||
9 | Femalis
This and the next 2 routes are from the good old days. Start: Chimney left of Haggis (probably between Master's Eggs and One of the Best).
FA: G.Owens, L.Muzzatti & F.Bell, 1967 | 69m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
11 | Charlie Brown
A slab with little pro. Start on wall 10m left of Pig Pen P1 Up wall and slab to large ledge (30m) P2 Up on jugs o top (24m) FA: B Postill & I Smith, 1967 | 55m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
10 | Fizzler
| 40m | Blue Mountains | ||
17 | ★ Khyber Pass
Start: 3 - 5m left of the corner. FA: A.Penney & D.Magro, 1985 | 48m | Blue Mountains | ||
9 | Haggis
Not too bad but pro is sparse. Start: ? At the "H" at the bottom of 'Licking Holes Creek'. FA: P.Jenkins & R.Lassman, 1967 | 49m | Blue Mountains | ||
9 | Pig Pen
Marked PP. P1. Overgrown Chimney to ledge. P2. Up left from ledge, then trend right along slab following the crack to top. Walk out. Take lots of slings. All natural anchors. | 46m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
9 | Deception
| 24m | Blue Mountains |