Route as trad in Buttered Side Up

This is the corner crack below the chockstone abseil in Butterbox Canyon. To access this route you must go through the canyon. See the canyoning online guides for information on Butterbox Canyon.

This is the first corner crack, located to the right after you exit the main constriction, jump 2m into water, and swim across the pool.

Gear required: Double rack of cams sized from your smallest to #4. Triples in #0.75, #1, #2 recommended. A standard rack of nuts.

1. 40m (19) Excellent climbing. Start on the right, and climb to a small ledge 5m up. Then 35m straight up, belay on large ledge. Save a #4 for about 2/3 height. Had minor seep at the start during the FA. Some gardening may be required depending on how much traffic the route gets. You will need cams in the 0.75 - 3 size range to build the belay, and you will likely want to use those sizes elsewhere.

2. 20m (18) Great climbing up a #0.75-3 crack. Belay at next ledge.

3. 10m (17) Continue up the crack to the top.

The exit involves walking up a steep scrubby slope (burnt out a few years ago) and wandering between various broken cliff lines, before walking along a ridge back to the Butterbox Canyon track.