Node |
---|
Narrow Neck Crags
Probably the oldest climbing area in the Bluey's. A little bit forgotten about these days but still very worthwhile. Take a lot of care with the fixed protection. Hopefully at some point in the future there will be funds available to 'renew' this area. |
Pumping Station Track
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Pumping Station Track |
20
★★★ Technicolour Dreams
Corner then left wall. Start: 50m left of the cave at corner beneath roofs. |
21
★ Codeine Kid
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
V9
Just one more fuck'n hit
Left to right eliminate of the traverse, using none of the obvious jug rail. Starts on high pockets, traverses down to the crimp on the V4, then out to slopers, moving low through the start of LSD and around. Video of Ben Pearse floating around somewhere. |
20
★★ LSD
Start: 5m right. |
19
Climb J
Start just left of tree, or right at chipped J. Up the overhang, optionally sling tree, clip the fixed hanger, then a short crank to glory and stainless carrot security. Walk off to right. Route bolter, please claim and name. |
20
★★ Wonderland
Anchor to ring in roof below blunt orange arete. 3m left of large detached block. Stick clip the first ring. Up, left then directly past 4 rings to break. Abseil from double ring anchor. |
V6
Peach grazer
Low traverse of the wall. Starting on the rail below the chipped 2finger pocket of the v4. Move right to the same finish as jomfh, big hole in the corner past the arete.Originally I thought v7 but my mates recon v6. Crux is keeping your arse off the floor. This one is bound to pull some traffic (just joking). |
Northern Crag
At the far left of the crag |
Northern Crag |
Catastrophe Corner and Cul De Sac
Details for Catastrophe Corner and Cul De Sac can be found under 'Rhum Du'. |
SRC MBL
Start: Just left of 'Chancellorsville' at bolt ladder leading left. |
14 M6
Chancellorsville
Aid up crack to roof, left to ledge, left to rock and up into the choss! Start: Thin left leading seam in small roof on the left side of the 'Waterfall' cave. |
13 M5
★★★ Dixie
Aid to ledge, up to 100 Man bivvy ledge! 2).Aid up and left via triple cracks till above small roof then right via missing expando flake(!), around arete and up to ledge. 3). Easy corner. Start: 12m right of C. |
Main Bivouac Ledge
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Main Bivouac Ledge |
15 M0
Algae Corner
Bridge tree stump and aid, around lip then to ledge. 2).Crawl left to piton in next corner. 3).Corner, right onto nose. 4). Up. Start: Left end of ledge at undercut right facing corner. |
17 M0
Shadows on the Wood
Corner, left below the top and up. Off right. Start: From AC anchor 1. |
16 M0
★★ The Long and Winding Road
Traverse to Dixon\'s Ladders.
|
19 M2
★ Solidifan
Aid to ledge, left past hollow flake, blank corner of left, to break, up and around overhangs to ledge. Off right. Start: 25m right of 'Algae Corner'. |
22
★★ Solidatic
Directissima. Frees bottom section of Solidfan and top section of 'Lunatic', 'Excellent' rock and climbing. Good pro - no need to rebolt. Highball thinish crux up past reasonable bolt and missing rurp to good gear. Leftish past tree & piton (Original Lunatic Belay) and up to hollow flake. Take right line - Lunatic - up past pitons & gear then right to bolt and final moves up through scoop to belay on ledge. Excellent Start: As for Solidifan below bolt. |
15 M3
Boston Tea Party
Aid/free up crack and wall, right to ledge. Start: 6m right of S. |
18 M2
Lunatic
Corner, traverse left to S then up to piton. 2). Up to hollow flake, up right corner, up and right (aid), wall to belay. Off right. Start: 1.5m right of BTP on left side of square gully. |
23
★★ Edge of Insanity
Start: Up 'Necrophiliac' for a few metres then left to arete and up. |
19 M4
Necrophiliac
Corner to roof, aid out and around then free. Start: As for L. |
17
★ Maniac
Right and side of gully Start: On ledge above track before waterfall cave. Scrable up.Start marked on right side of the gully. |
11
Black Pawn
Up corner, right onto nose, wall & corner to tree. Start: 4m right of M. |
19
★ Felix the Crack
Use tree to climb overhang, up to ledge above BP corner. 2). Corner to tree, traverse left to crack and up. Start: 4m right of BP. |
11 R
Piton Gambit Bracket
Corner to ledge on right, arete to ledge below chossy overhang, up wall. Take Care! Start: 10m right of FtC at left facing corner. |
14 M0 R
It's More Fun Than Playing Pool
Wall, aid through overhang, slab right to chossy ledge below overhang, right and up to big ledge. Take Care! Start: 15m right of scramble route to the 100 Man Bivouac Ledge. |
13 M4 R
★ Piton Gambit Bracket Direct
To overhang, aid - take care - to block on right, left under roof and up corner or wall on right to the ledge. Start: 8m right again, below chossy roofs. |
19
★ Sea of Tranquillity
Up to bolt, left then right again to piton, up, slight left around overhang, arete to ledge. 2). Right wall then up and left to arete and up. Start: 3m righ of PGBDs. 'Arete'. |
12 R
★ Piton Gambit
Coner and ramp to bush(!) 2). Up to traverse line, left and up onto block. 3). Up and right on jugs. Take great care!! Start: 2m right of SoT. |
21 R
KY Jelly
5m up PG then ramp on left, left and up to PG anchor 2. Left again or finish as for PG. Start: As for PG for 5m. |
16
Sirrus Minor
Up to roof, right and up to slab, up right (Take wires), to ledge and bush, finish as for PG. Take care with pro!! Start: 5m right of PG. |
16
Shogun
Tree to wall, left to arete, up to ledge. 2).Left to corner, traverse right to piton then arete, up and right to ledge. 3).Back left to piton, around overhang, up wall on right of arete to ledge, up arete (mainly on left). Take slings. Start: 12m right of SM at short crack below rooflet. |
15 M1 R
Ectoplasm
Corner, overhang, up and slight left to ledge. 2).Traverse left to corner, up to ledge and ramp leading right onto wall, up and right to bolt, back slight left and up wall. Take care!! Start: 1m right again at thin crack. |
20 M4
Rising Sun
Wall to bush below cracked roof. 2). Aid roof then left to cave. a Free varient starts 3m right. 3). Traverse right, up crack to bush. Start: Block 4m right of E. |
18 R
Frustration Chimney
Squirm up to ledge. 2).Thrash to chockstone, out and up to bush. 3).Left and up wall to bulge. Take care!! Start: 9m right of RS. Wet undercut chimney. |
23
★ Lethargic Limbs
Batman start? Start: 30m right of FC at slight orange overhang. |
27
Tambo Comes to Town
Up to first bolt, up. Start: As for LL. |
25
Gravity Sink
Diagonally left to bolt. Corner to 100' Slab halfway ledge. Start: 3m right of LL. |
22
Hey There Big Boy Direct Start
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
19
★ Hey There Big Boy
Start: Use tree to swing left into flimsier tree (!), traverse left to bolt, Up and right to 100' Slab hw ledge. Has a direct start 2m left.(Grade 22). |
19
Ornithorhynchus Paradoxus
Up tree and crack to 100' Slab hw ledge. Start: 7m right of HTBB. |
10
Deshabille' Detour
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
100' Slab Area
The area to the right of the ladder descent (facing out!). The routes listed LEFT to RIGHT (facing in) starting at the far end of the crag. So it's really the left side. |
100' Slab Area |
15
Minute Man
Start: 3m right of DD. |
There is a double bolt belay on the ledge at the top of 100 Foot Slab P1, and twin stainless bolts w
There is a double bolt belay on the ledge at the top of 100 Foot Slab P1, and twin stainless bolts with chains on the upper wall 3m left facing in (commercial abseil anchor?). Beware the hail of broken rocks right of here at ground level from said groups who rap above. |
11
★★ 100' Slab
A pure old school trad classic. Start: 6m right of MM at centre of big block below overlap.
Rap or walk off right. P2 can be done by itself. |
The next several routes all start on the ledge system at end of 100ft Slab pitch 1. Easy access via
The next several routes all start on the ledge system at end of 100ft Slab pitch 1. Easy access via 30m rap from chains from above. |
23
★★ Reckless
Orange, slightly overhung face on the left side of the Day of Reckoning arete. Start low via steep start on jugs to small ledge - then up sustained face above to lower-offs. |
24
★★★ Dead Reckoning
Funky goodness. The direct start and right hand finish to Day of Reckoning. All bolts + one old piton where the route joins up with original. |
21
★★★ Day of Reckoning
The proud arete left of 100ft Slab. Up trad protected flakes about 5m right of the arete for about 10m to piton, traverse hard left to arete (piton), then up the arete (2 bolts) finishing direct. Belay bolts on the top. |
23
Grey Stains
Start as for DoR flakes then continue up the bolted grey wall above, abut 5m right fo the arete, Original carrot bolts - probably short and dangerous if they match the same bolts Mikl used on Dead Reckoning. |
Mystery Sport Route
Ringbolted wall left of 100ft Slab corner. Looks reasonably hard at one point - mid 20s? Anyone have further info? |
14
★ 100' Slab Direct Variant
Slab. Start: 6m right of 100' Slab anchor 2. |
14
★ 100' Slab Most Direct Variant
Chickenhead and bolt, up and left. Start: 2m right again! |
15
★ 100' Slab Super Direct
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
21
★ Crash Landing
To roof, right above lip and up easy slab. Start: 8m right again. |
17
★ In Transit
Up wall, right along footledge and up, flake, right onto ledge, right 5m then wall tending left. 2). Up. Start: 3m right of CL at break in overhang. |
Back to ground level
Back to ground level |
19 R
Smegma
Wall to ledge. Take great care with pro! Start: 4m right of 100'S. |
12 R
Epsilon
Solo! Start: 3m right again. |
13 M4
★ Stoner Highway
Ledge & arete to halfway ledge near tree. 2). 15m left to lip of overhang, aid, then right, right under roof to bolt. Up arch following pitons, right to ledge. 3). Up wall. Start: 1m right again. |
19
In The Gutter
Free SH pitch 2 to third aid bolt, through roof and up wall. Start: On halfway ledge as for SH pitch 2. |
13
Zeta
Up to tree,right, around hard stuff to ledge. Start: 4m right of SH. |
17
Ebbnuff
To ledge, roof on left and up to tree. 2).Past overhang, onto wall, up to piton, right to ledge. 3). Wall. Start: 15m right again on scrubby slab. |
19 R
Joan of Arc
Up and right through choss to yellow corner, up to triangular block, right past bolt, choss to ledge. 2). Left and up to shelf beneath overhang, to wall, uo to small ledge. 3). Up and right. Take wires! Start: Slab 3m right of E. |
16 R
★ Climb X
Crack to ledge, right and up crack, right along hand traverse, corner to detached block, left across wall, up to ledge - belay here. back right, up to roof, left and over roof to bolt, up, slight left to small ledge. small tree and detatched block belay 2). Up and right (not much gear)through overlap(with fear!) and up to bolt, then belay. Start: 10m right of JoA. |
16
Sloth Wall DS
Start: 12m right of CX. Up to bolt below overhang then original. |
13 R
Sloth Wall
Up to ledge. 2). Left to end, around overhang and up, left up wall to ledge. 3). Diagonally left and up. Take Care! Start: 30m right of CX. |
12 M1 R
Vorhung
Corner to ledge. 2). Aid ladder then free. Take care! Start: 12m right of SW at scrubby corner. |
20
★ Cheese Cake
As for V. 2).Right into corner, up to traverse, arete then up. 3). Up. Start: From V anchor 1. |
13
Arabesque Variant Start
Start: 6.5 left of of 'Arabesque' |
13 M4
★ Arabesque
Crack to bolt under roof, aid roof and choss to piton. 2). Wall. Start: Has Vs and Ds, left respectively. 8m right of CC. Grey left leading flake. |
21
The Lecher
Bulge then left for pro, back right and straight up to K anchor. Start: 4m right of A. |
22 M3
★ Krakatoa
Up to steepening, up then left to shale. 2).Right to choss corner, aid/free to large gear under roof, traverse left to arete. 3). Chimney. Start: Weakness 3m right of TL. |
21 M3
Square Gully
Corner then right to ledge, up to piton, to ledge. Belay in recess (can climb directly up corner). 2).Left to corner, up (aid) to piton below roof. 3). Traverse right to aid (take care), arete, around roof and up. Start: 6m right of K. |
23
The Fifth Position
Up to piton and on to ledge, belay in recess. 2) 'Steep' corner, rooflet and up. Start: Thin crack 7m right of SG. |
13 R
★ Chess Board
Start: 16m right of TFP, marked CB / DHP.
|
21
★ Chess Board Direct
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
17
Dagmar's Hot Pants
Over bulge to chain. Start: From CB anchor 2. |
14 M2
Rin Tin Tin
Tree to lip, aid right to bolts, free, then right to cave, wall to ledge and bollard, up to trees. 2). Right up wall. Take wires and slings. Start: 10m right of CB. (tree growing to lip of roof?). |
27 R
Space Junk
The bolts were bad 20 years ago! Start: 12m right of RTT. cairn. |
20
King Kong
Australia's first grade 21, according to Vertical Life's article 'First at the Grade'. Steep green crack. 2).Out and up to piton. 3&4). UP. Start: 7m right of SJ. |
19
Airborne
As for KK to thin traverse to cave, crawl left to belay. 2).Back to piton, over bulge and up to tree. 3). Up. Start: As for KK. |
20 R
Serving Time Direct Start
Start: 13m right of KK. Below fixed crab (?). |
20
Serving Time
Corner, traverse left and up, left to bolt, down and left to rest, through roof, traverse right, up and left to belay. 2&3). Wall trending left. Start: Left facing corner 9m right of DS. |
11 M4
Mickey Mouse
Corner then right to nose, aid roof on many bolts and pitons. 2&3). Up. Start: As for ST. |
13 M2
Locust
Up to piton, left and up to roof, aid roof, wall then left and aid to bush. 2).Right and up. Start: 10m right of MM. |
18 R
Fairies' Tales
Up to bolt, trend right to piton, up, up and left to double bolts, left along lip then weakness up to roof, over, up and right to bush. 2). Right to corner and up. Start: 10m right of L at groove. |
19 R
The Boxer Rebellion
Tree to jug, groove to bulge, over, up to ledge on right. 2).Diagonally left to base of corner. 3). Corner. Start: 4m right of FT. |
18 R
Captain Triangle
Up then right around arete and up onto loose block, right of arete. 2). Void then arete and groove, onto ledge to girder. Start: 3m right of TBR. |
15 R
Pipeline Wall
Up trees onto ledge, left and up to arete, right below blocks to ledge. 2). Overhang and right to girder. 3). Up and left to arete, up. Start: 10m right of CT (dead trees). |
Southern Crag
The area between Dixon's Ladders and Herbaceous Gully. Home to classics like Fuddy Duddy, Cave Climb and On Both Sides of the Glass. |
Southern Crag |
20 M2
The Vandal
Start: 4m right of the ladders. thin right facing corner.
|
16
O'Sullivan's Folly
Actually the name given to the old road by the locals. Start: As for TV, then wall trending left past bushes. |
19
O'Sullivan's Folly Variant
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
21 R
Juvenille
Start: 2m right of TV at thin black crack. Up to roof, arete to ledge (The Delinquent anchor 1). Ledges. Rap of finish as for TD. |
20
The Delinquent
Corner to roof,, left to ledge. Left, up and back to the crack and up to ledge. Over the bulge and up. Start: 2m right of J. 3 pitches. |