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Nodes in Narrow Neck Crags

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Node
Narrow Neck Crags

Probably the oldest climbing area in the Bluey's. A little bit forgotten about these days but still very worthwhile. Take a lot of care with the fixed protection. Hopefully at some point in the future there will be funds available to 'renew' this area.

Pumping Station Track

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Pumping Station Track
20 Technicolour Dreams

Corner then left wall.

Start: 50m left of the cave at corner beneath roofs.

21 Codeine Kid

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

V9 Just one more fuck'n hit

Left to right eliminate of the traverse, using none of the obvious jug rail. Starts on high pockets, traverses down to the crimp on the V4, then out to slopers, moving low through the start of LSD and around. Video of Ben Pearse floating around somewhere.

20 LSD

Start: 5m right.

19 Climb J

Start just left of tree, or right at chipped J.

Up the overhang, optionally sling tree, clip the fixed hanger, then a short crank to glory and stainless carrot security. Walk off to right.

Route bolter, please claim and name.

20 Wonderland

Anchor to ring in roof below blunt orange arete. 3m left of large detached block. Stick clip the first ring. Up, left then directly past 4 rings to break. Abseil from double ring anchor.

V6 Peach grazer

Low traverse of the wall. Starting on the rail below the chipped 2finger pocket of the v4. Move right to the same finish as jomfh, big hole in the corner past the arete.Originally I thought v7 but my mates recon v6. Crux is keeping your arse off the floor. This one is bound to pull some traffic (just joking).

Northern Crag

At the far left of the crag

Northern Crag
Catastrophe Corner and Cul De Sac

Details for Catastrophe Corner and Cul De Sac can be found under 'Rhum Du'.

SRC MBL

Start: Just left of 'Chancellorsville' at bolt ladder leading left.

14 M6 Chancellorsville

Aid up crack to roof, left to ledge, left to rock and up into the choss!

Start: Thin left leading seam in small roof on the left side of the 'Waterfall' cave.

13 M5 Dixie

Aid to ledge, up to 100 Man bivvy ledge! 2).Aid up and left via triple cracks till above small roof then right via missing expando flake(!), around arete and up to ledge. 3). Easy corner.

Start: 12m right of C.

Main Bivouac Ledge

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Main Bivouac Ledge
15 M0 Algae Corner

Bridge tree stump and aid, around lip then to ledge. 2).Crawl left to piton in next corner. 3).Corner, right onto nose. 4). Up.

Start: Left end of ledge at undercut right facing corner.

17 M0 Shadows on the Wood

Corner, left below the top and up. Off right.

Start: From AC anchor 1.

16 M0 The Long and Winding Road

Traverse to Dixon\'s Ladders.

  1. 255m (-)

  2. 73m (-)

19 M2 Solidifan

Aid to ledge, left past hollow flake, blank corner of left, to break, up and around overhangs to ledge. Off right.

Start: 25m right of 'Algae Corner'.

22 Solidatic

Directissima. Frees bottom section of Solidfan and top section of 'Lunatic', 'Excellent' rock and climbing. Good pro - no need to rebolt.

Highball thinish crux up past reasonable bolt and missing rurp to good gear. Leftish past tree & piton (Original Lunatic Belay) and up to hollow flake. Take right line - Lunatic - up past pitons & gear then right to bolt and final moves up through scoop to belay on ledge. Excellent

Start: As for Solidifan below bolt.

15 M3 Boston Tea Party

Aid/free up crack and wall, right to ledge.

Start: 6m right of S.

18 M2 Lunatic

Corner, traverse left to S then up to piton. 2). Up to hollow flake, up right corner, up and right (aid), wall to belay. Off right.

Start: 1.5m right of BTP on left side of square gully.

23 Edge of Insanity

Start: Up 'Necrophiliac' for a few metres then left to arete and up.

19 M4 Necrophiliac

Corner to roof, aid out and around then free.

Start: As for L.

17 Maniac

Right and side of gully

Start: On ledge above track before waterfall cave. Scrable up.Start marked on right side of the gully.

11 Black Pawn

Up corner, right onto nose, wall & corner to tree.

Start: 4m right of M.

19 Felix the Crack

Use tree to climb overhang, up to ledge above BP corner. 2). Corner to tree, traverse left to crack and up.

Start: 4m right of BP.

11 R Piton Gambit Bracket

Corner to ledge on right, arete to ledge below chossy overhang, up wall. Take Care!

Start: 10m right of FtC at left facing corner.

14 M0 R It's More Fun Than Playing Pool

Wall, aid through overhang, slab right to chossy ledge below overhang, right and up to big ledge. Take Care!

Start: 15m right of scramble route to the 100 Man Bivouac Ledge.

13 M4 R Piton Gambit Bracket Direct

To overhang, aid - take care - to block on right, left under roof and up corner or wall on right to the ledge.

Start: 8m right again, below chossy roofs.

19 Sea of Tranquillity

Up to bolt, left then right again to piton, up, slight left around overhang, arete to ledge. 2). Right wall then up and left to arete and up.

Start: 3m righ of PGBDs. 'Arete'.

12 R Piton Gambit

Coner and ramp to bush(!) 2). Up to traverse line, left and up onto block. 3). Up and right on jugs. Take great care!!

Start: 2m right of SoT.

21 R KY Jelly

5m up PG then ramp on left, left and up to PG anchor 2. Left again or finish as for PG.

Start: As for PG for 5m.

16 Sirrus Minor

Up to roof, right and up to slab, up right (Take wires), to ledge and bush, finish as for PG. Take care with pro!!

Start: 5m right of PG.

16 Shogun

Tree to wall, left to arete, up to ledge. 2).Left to corner, traverse right to piton then arete, up and right to ledge. 3).Back left to piton, around overhang, up wall on right of arete to ledge, up arete (mainly on left). Take slings.

Start: 12m right of SM at short crack below rooflet.

15 M1 R Ectoplasm

Corner, overhang, up and slight left to ledge. 2).Traverse left to corner, up to ledge and ramp leading right onto wall, up and right to bolt, back slight left and up wall. Take care!!

Start: 1m right again at thin crack.

20 M4 Rising Sun

Wall to bush below cracked roof. 2). Aid roof then left to cave. a Free varient starts 3m right. 3). Traverse right, up crack to bush.

Start: Block 4m right of E.

18 R Frustration Chimney

Squirm up to ledge. 2).Thrash to chockstone, out and up to bush. 3).Left and up wall to bulge. Take care!!

Start: 9m right of RS. Wet undercut chimney.

23 Lethargic Limbs

Batman start?

Start: 30m right of FC at slight orange overhang.

27 Tambo Comes to Town

Up to first bolt, up.

Start: As for LL.

25 Gravity Sink

Diagonally left to bolt. Corner to 100' Slab halfway ledge.

Start: 3m right of LL.

22 Hey There Big Boy Direct Start

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

19 Hey There Big Boy

Start: Use tree to swing left into flimsier tree (!), traverse left to bolt, Up and right to 100' Slab hw ledge. Has a direct start 2m left.(Grade 22).

19 Ornithorhynchus Paradoxus

Up tree and crack to 100' Slab hw ledge.

Start: 7m right of HTBB.

10 Deshabille' Detour

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

100' Slab Area

The area to the right of the ladder descent (facing out!). The routes listed LEFT to RIGHT (facing in) starting at the far end of the crag. So it's really the left side.

100' Slab Area
15 Minute Man

Start: 3m right of DD.

There is a double bolt belay on the ledge at the top of 100 Foot Slab P1, and twin stainless bolts w

There is a double bolt belay on the ledge at the top of 100 Foot Slab P1, and twin stainless bolts with chains on the upper wall 3m left facing in (commercial abseil anchor?). Beware the hail of broken rocks right of here at ground level from said groups who rap above.

11 100' Slab

A pure old school trad classic.

Start: 6m right of MM at centre of big block below overlap.

  1. Block, around overlap, up wall to ledge. Stroll left to big corner.

  2. Up, just right of corner for adequate protection (including new FH next to mild steel heritage bolt and plate); middle below block for a few pieces; or right for not much. Double bolt and chain belay.

Rap or walk off right. P2 can be done by itself.

The next several routes all start on the ledge system at end of 100ft Slab pitch 1. Easy access via

The next several routes all start on the ledge system at end of 100ft Slab pitch 1. Easy access via 30m rap from chains from above.

23 Reckless

Orange, slightly overhung face on the left side of the Day of Reckoning arete. Start low via steep start on jugs to small ledge - then up sustained face above to lower-offs.

24 Dead Reckoning

Funky goodness. The direct start and right hand finish to Day of Reckoning. All bolts + one old piton where the route joins up with original.

21 Day of Reckoning

The proud arete left of 100ft Slab. Up trad protected flakes about 5m right of the arete for about 10m to piton, traverse hard left to arete (piton), then up the arete (2 bolts) finishing direct. Belay bolts on the top.

23 Grey Stains

Start as for DoR flakes then continue up the bolted grey wall above, abut 5m right fo the arete, Original carrot bolts - probably short and dangerous if they match the same bolts Mikl used on Dead Reckoning.

Mystery Sport Route

Ringbolted wall left of 100ft Slab corner. Looks reasonably hard at one point - mid 20s? Anyone have further info?

14 100' Slab Direct Variant

Slab.

Start: 6m right of 100' Slab anchor 2.

14 100' Slab Most Direct Variant

Chickenhead and bolt, up and left.

Start: 2m right again!

15 100' Slab Super Direct

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

21 Crash Landing

To roof, right above lip and up easy slab.

Start: 8m right again.

17 In Transit

Up wall, right along footledge and up, flake, right onto ledge, right 5m then wall tending left. 2). Up.

Start: 3m right of CL at break in overhang.

Back to ground level

Back to ground level

19 R Smegma

Wall to ledge. Take great care with pro!

Start: 4m right of 100'S.

12 R Epsilon

Solo!

Start: 3m right again.

13 M4 Stoner Highway

Ledge & arete to halfway ledge near tree. 2). 15m left to lip of overhang, aid, then right, right under roof to bolt. Up arch following pitons, right to ledge. 3). Up wall.

Start: 1m right again.

19 In The Gutter

Free SH pitch 2 to third aid bolt, through roof and up wall.

Start: On halfway ledge as for SH pitch 2.

13 Zeta

Up to tree,right, around hard stuff to ledge.

Start: 4m right of SH.

17 Ebbnuff

To ledge, roof on left and up to tree. 2).Past overhang, onto wall, up to piton, right to ledge. 3). Wall.

Start: 15m right again on scrubby slab.

19 R Joan of Arc

Up and right through choss to yellow corner, up to triangular block, right past bolt, choss to ledge. 2). Left and up to shelf beneath overhang, to wall, uo to small ledge. 3). Up and right. Take wires!

Start: Slab 3m right of E.

16 R Climb X

Crack to ledge, right and up crack, right along hand traverse, corner to detached block, left across wall, up to ledge - belay here. back right, up to roof, left and over roof to bolt, up, slight left to small ledge. small tree and detatched block belay 2). Up and right (not much gear)through overlap(with fear!) and up to bolt, then belay.

Start: 10m right of JoA.

16 Sloth Wall DS

Start: 12m right of CX. Up to bolt below overhang then original.

13 R Sloth Wall

Up to ledge. 2). Left to end, around overhang and up, left up wall to ledge. 3). Diagonally left and up. Take Care!

Start: 30m right of CX.

12 M1 R Vorhung

Corner to ledge. 2). Aid ladder then free. Take care!

Start: 12m right of SW at scrubby corner.

20 Cheese Cake

As for V. 2).Right into corner, up to traverse, arete then up. 3). Up.

Start: From V anchor 1.

13 Arabesque Variant Start

Start: 6.5 left of of 'Arabesque'

13 M4 Arabesque

Crack to bolt under roof, aid roof and choss to piton. 2). Wall.

Start: Has Vs and Ds, left respectively.

8m right of CC. Grey left leading flake.

21 The Lecher

Bulge then left for pro, back right and straight up to K anchor.

Start: 4m right of A.

22 M3 Krakatoa

Up to steepening, up then left to shale. 2).Right to choss corner, aid/free to large gear under roof, traverse left to arete. 3). Chimney.

Start: Weakness 3m right of TL.

21 M3 Square Gully

Corner then right to ledge, up to piton, to ledge. Belay in recess (can climb directly up corner). 2).Left to corner, up (aid) to piton below roof. 3). Traverse right to aid (take care), arete, around roof and up.

Start: 6m right of K.

23 The Fifth Position

Up to piton and on to ledge, belay in recess. 2) 'Steep' corner, rooflet and up.

Start: Thin crack 7m right of SG.

13 R Chess Board

Start: 16m right of TFP, marked CB / DHP.

  1. 15m Traverse left to arete, weird hard mantel and up to old carrot + 2 FH belay. 16 at least in modern terms, but what was the hardest thing in Aus in '62?

  2. 5m Right along breaks and up to old carrot, new chain and FH belay on delightful small ledge. Probably too much drag to combine P1 and 2.

  3. 30m Up 2m to ledge, right a ways then straight up juggy wall to Banksia.

  4. 25m (3) Low-angled juggy ironstone wall then walk off.

21 Chess Board Direct

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

17 Dagmar's Hot Pants

Over bulge to chain.

Start: From CB anchor 2.

14 M2 Rin Tin Tin

Tree to lip, aid right to bolts, free, then right to cave, wall to ledge and bollard, up to trees. 2). Right up wall. Take wires and slings.

Start: 10m right of CB. (tree growing to lip of roof?).

27 R Space Junk

The bolts were bad 20 years ago!

Start: 12m right of RTT. cairn.

20 King Kong

Australia's first grade 21, according to Vertical Life's article 'First at the Grade'.

Steep green crack. 2).Out and up to piton. 3&4). UP.

Start: 7m right of SJ.

19 Airborne

As for KK to thin traverse to cave, crawl left to belay. 2).Back to piton, over bulge and up to tree. 3). Up.

Start: As for KK.

20 R Serving Time Direct Start

Start: 13m right of KK. Below fixed crab (?).

20 Serving Time

Corner, traverse left and up, left to bolt, down and left to rest, through roof, traverse right, up and left to belay. 2&3). Wall trending left.

Start: Left facing corner 9m right of DS.

11 M4 Mickey Mouse

Corner then right to nose, aid roof on many bolts and pitons. 2&3). Up.

Start: As for ST.

13 M2 Locust

Up to piton, left and up to roof, aid roof, wall then left and aid to bush. 2).Right and up.

Start: 10m right of MM.

18 R Fairies' Tales

Up to bolt, trend right to piton, up, up and left to double bolts, left along lip then weakness up to roof, over, up and right to bush. 2). Right to corner and up.

Start: 10m right of L at groove.

19 R The Boxer Rebellion

Tree to jug, groove to bulge, over, up to ledge on right. 2).Diagonally left to base of corner. 3). Corner.

Start: 4m right of FT.

18 R Captain Triangle

Up then right around arete and up onto loose block, right of arete. 2). Void then arete and groove, onto ledge to girder.

Start: 3m right of TBR.

15 R Pipeline Wall

Up trees onto ledge, left and up to arete, right below blocks to ledge. 2). Overhang and right to girder. 3). Up and left to arete, up.

Start: 10m right of CT (dead trees).

Southern Crag

The area between Dixon's Ladders and Herbaceous Gully. Home to classics like Fuddy Duddy, Cave Climb and On Both Sides of the Glass.

Southern Crag
20 M2 The Vandal

Start: 4m right of the ladders. thin right facing corner.

  1. 20m (20) Rooflet and corner to ledge.

  2. 19m (20) Corner, right and up to the girder.

16 O'Sullivan's Folly

Actually the name given to the old road by the locals.

Start: As for TV, then wall trending left past bushes.

19 O'Sullivan's Folly Variant

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

21 R Juvenille

Start: 2m right of TV at thin black crack. Up to roof, arete to ledge (The Delinquent anchor 1). Ledges. Rap of finish as for TD.

20 The Delinquent

Corner to roof,, left to ledge. Left, up and back to the crack and up to ledge. Over the bulge and up.

Start: 2m right of J. 3 pitches.

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