Ascents in Pierces Pass East Side as Attempt

Onsight attempt. I was really psyched to give it my best shot in one single pitch, armed with my 8.9mmx100m French weaponry. It was quite obvious that the dirty first pitch section wouldn't be the most pleasant but I managed without complaining too much. Shortly after passing the first anchor, I pulled on a crimp and I felt it moving and that was enough to disgruntle me. I sat on my gear inspecting the rock to find out that the crimp was only a part of a flush chockstone, and I didn't even have to use it. I put my shit together and although the true proper onsight was gone, I continued in an onsighting mode. I was too short to reach easily the hold before the mid anchor and really had to pull hard with foot in the crack real high and deadpoint. Went easily through the rooflet but the V hold was so greasy and my gear was so bad (crunchy Z4-0.1) I sat on it and managed to place a good DMM offset nut just before the cam set itself free, pfffff. At that point I was running out of med nuts and stripped the nut in the rooflet as I was very pleased with the DMM crux nut. I brushed a bit the V hold and gave it a better shot which didn't worked out too well, the small fall turned out a bit more epic than expected when the crux nut popped out and I travelled through space and time until the nut + long sling I placed next to the mid anchor held me. Man it was a pretty big fall. I called it a day at that point.

First lead attempt on the route. Came unstuck at the crux with the sun beating down on me. Took a nice whip onto my nice 0.2 cam, that thing was pretty bomber! Back-cleaned to the anchor and midway and lowered to rest and try again.

Made it up the first two pitches and fell about 4 moves up the third. A little too shattered to keep going, but man was it good.

Pitch 3 - Still can't do the crux move, even after rapping the route and working out a new sequence. The move is there, and it will go, I just need to actually TRAIN to be able to send it. This one could be a bit of a long haul.

P3 - I Broke off a hold I'd always planned to use, and couldn't do the crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. There are other holds here out left, but I haven't explored/cleaned them, and was just throwing to them blind (and getting tired of taking big falls trying). I need to rap the route again and clean/tick-up what I need to use before I can get the send. Since I couldn't pull through this move, I ended up backjumping and bailing. Technical and strenuous to the crux moves. Could be great.

led 1st pitch and couldn't get up 2nd! Hard 23.