The full gamut of emotions on this one. With not a drop of chalk on the crux pitch, I pushed and pushed on the onsight with every trick I had, only to eventually fall off between the last bolt and the anchor, in the final few moves (getting the wrong foot up on the arete).
Both pitches are brilliant in their own right (don't underestimate the 1st pitch, I fell off the first move as a warmup!), but it comes with some giant caveats that make it a mission to climb -not the least of which is the hideously positioned belay bolts, which necessitate a hanging belay, rather than just a semi-hanging belay with a few seconds of forethough as to their position. P2 is certainly one of the top 3 aretes in the Blueys, and reminds me of a more intense version of Teenager for the CIA. Certainly one of the most arete-y aretes in the mountains (and conveniently bolted, unlike Koyaan arete).
Hideous disgusting choss. Utterly offensive and terrible. I won't give the whole route a quality rating though because I didn't get to try the upper pitch which is obviously the reason to climb the route. Pitch one was just so so bad though! Bleh.
Okay, so I'm not one for top roping. I just didn't have the headset for the lead today, redpointed up to the last draw before toprope. Soo very freakily run out and crimpy.
- with
Heath Black
Both pitches are brilliant in their own right (don't underestimate the 1st pitch, I fell off the first move as a warmup!), but it comes with some giant caveats that make it a mission to climb -not the least of which is the hideously positioned belay bolts, which necessitate a hanging belay, rather than just a semi-hanging belay with a few seconds of forethough as to their position. P2 is certainly one of the top 3 aretes in the Blueys, and reminds me of a more intense version of Teenager for the CIA. Certainly one of the most arete-y aretes in the mountains (and conveniently bolted, unlike Koyaan arete).