Routes in Middle Rocks for selected grade

Discontinuous. Start from the first belay on 'Three Problems'.

1. 10 metres - Up the rightwards slanting crack and around the corner to another large ledge. Scramble up a vegetated gully for 10 metres.

2. 15 metres - Up the slab at the left end of a steep wall, then a ramp to the top.

Start 15 metres right of 'Morsehold', immediately right of a flake pinnacle.

1. 15 metres - Climb the crack to a large ledge.

2. 30 metres - Walk left for seven metres and climb the obvious crack to a ledge, then the ramp on the right, moving back left to a chock filled crack. Up a gully.

Climbs the slab and wall to the left-hand overhang. Start at the right-hand end of the slab at an easy, dirty corner.

1. 45 metres - Wander up the corner for 10 metres then back left to the pillar formed crack. Up this, pulling through a steep section to a stance, then a short crack to belay under the large overhanging corner.

2. 15 metres - Traverse left across the slabs and finish up a grotty overhanging pile of blocks.

A good alternative second pitch is the steep corner crack four metres to the right.

Aptly named and a fine companion to other routes in the vicinity. Start at the lichenous pillar right of 'Singularity'. Up the pillar and flakes before moving right across the moss to a corner. Up this and more moss to a large bushy ledge.

The curving chimney eight metres right of 'Derision'.

1. 15 metres - Up the chimney and filth, onto the left arete and follow this to join 'Derision'.

2. 35 metres - Up 'Derision' and then up the left-hand of two cracks. Climb the crack behind the tree then diagonally right.