Nodes in Echidna Slabs

Nice slab routes in the mid grades, including some exciting old-school adventures and modern sport masterpieces.

Follow the mineral deposits (bolts) of which there are four on the first pitch. Start on the 5-m triangular block at the left hand end of 'Snickers Wall'.

1. 30 metres - Crux. Clip a bolt, step onto the wall and follow the rightward rising traverse past two more bolts. Climb past the double-ring anchor to a chain anchor at the top of Frog Tactics.

2. 30 metres - Move left two metres, up the slab then left again at the short wall til standing on a small spike. Up the crack and wall above finishing by a short crack to the belay ledge with a tree (as for 'Baryon').

3. 30 metres - From the left end of the ledge follow a dyke for a few metres, then back right to below an incipient curved crack. Up and onwards between two lichen streaks, passing a "thank God" RP placement.

A good, varied climb with a thin crux. Start as for 'Silver City Highway'.

1. 45 metres - Traverse right slightly then straight up past a bolt (crux) to a ledge. Walk left then up the wall past two more bolts to a corner and easy slab. Finish up the wide corner crack and belay below 'Baryon'.

2. 45m (13) - Climb left along the 10cm dyke (RPs / small wires) until you hit the wide 'Lepton' dyke then up easily to top.

Start as for 'Silver City Highway' on the 5m high block. Lean over, clip the first bolt, then climb up and left to the second. Straight up past four more bolts to rap anchor in corner. 30m rap back to top of block.

Originally traversed left at the third bolt and joined 'Mind and Body', but the direct finish is better.

Another good slab route. Getting to the first bolt is quite scary. Start just left of the 5-metre 'Silver City Highway' block.

1. 30 metres (22) - Move up trending right to a ledge and bolt. Shake your way up creaky flakes and some hard moves past three more bolts to the Zog traverse.

2. 10 metres - Can be combined with first pitch. Up the crack and slab above to the left edge of a large alcove (double bolt belay as for Psychosomatic).

3. 45 metres (18) - Straight up from the belay. Put in some sideways wires then teeter up the slab to a bolt about 10m up. Continue easily to the top.

Fantastic slab climbing on small edges. Just left of Mind and Body, this route is well equipped with bolts to rap anchors. Some gear is handy at the Zog Traverse (sloping ledge). 35m lower-off - 70m rope required. It is possible to continue up Astradyne or Mind and Body, both of which are run-out with 1 bolt and minimal gear; or up Lepton pitch 4 (nice climbing with good gear).

A good direct line up the steep slabs to the right of 'Zog'. A bolt protects the crux. The second pitch was originally unprotected but a bolt was added (at the beginning of the leftwards diagonal weakness) in 1992. Start beneath a vertical dyke of finely textured rock 3m left of 'Psychosomatic'.

1. 45 metres (20) - Up the short wall to the dyke, and climb this past the bolt then up the slab to a sloping ledge (the 'Zog' traverse). Climb the short wall to the left of a horizontal crack, exit onto the slab and delicately up and right to DBB (shared with 'Psychosomatic').

2. 35 metres (18) - Easily up the groove in 11 o'clock direction to a sloping ledge (the 'Lepton' ramp), then straight up the steep slab to a bolt in a faint leftwards diagonal weakness. Follow this left to the base of a dyke, and up this and the slab to belay at a large flake and groove (or, just continue up and right to the chain belay). Still serious at the grade, with the bolt acting as a navigation aid and effectively the only pro.

3. 10 metres - Easily up to a large ledge.

Not quite as good as the other routes on this wall, and with serious fall potential on the first pitch. Start beneath the bolt five metres left of 'Astradyne'.

1. 35 metres - Climb up past the bolt (crux) to the 'Zog' traverse and then up the left-hand side of a brown scoop to a horizontal break (gear). Up past another bolt then continue to belay at a spike 3 metres right of, and slightly below, the 'Unacceptable In The 80s' belay ledge.

2. 50 metres - Climb the dark brown streak till a dyke is reached, trend right up this and the ramp to chain belay.

The line of bolts just right of Echidna (sharing the first bolt).

1. 40m (19) Sustained, 8 bolts. Its possible to climb the route just on bolts but if you want to fill in the gaps take some some small cams and wires. Originally done on 5 bolts. Belay at the good ledge to the right of Echidna with double bolt anchors and twist shackles. Rap possible with double ropes.

2. 45m (15). Slab to the right of Echidna. Climb up over the short wall onto the slab and up past two bolts (run out, possible to place a cam in a pocket). Follow the right-trending shallow slab/groove to chain belay. Walk off or rap down for more climbing.

A classic slab route. Start at the shallow groove below blocks just left of 'Unacceptable In The 80s'.

1. 15 metres (19) - Climb the groove past two bolts to belay on top of the blocks (or continue up the second pitch - take slings).

2. 25 metres (19) - Up and right to a bolt, then move left and up past two more to a ledge. It is possible to belay and rap from the 'Unacceptable In The 80s' anchor (40m to ground).

3. 40 metres - Up easily, trending left to a lichenous closed corner then straight up.

From the 3rd belay on Denethor, move past the start to the Ivory Coast crack, then follow the rising, featured scoop with good gear, to the barren slab. Straight up the steepening slab to shallow grooves and the large flake for some welcome protection. Around right or over the flake to the top.

An ascending traverse between 'Denethor' and 'Vent Crack' with some good climbing, but the second pitch is poorly protected and quite serious at the grade. Start at the left-hand end of 'The Terrace', below a crack 50 metres left of 'Vent Crack'.

1. 10 metres - Up the crack to a small belay stance.

2. 35 metres - Traverse right for 15 metres to a small scoop, then climb the wall on the right to a good ledge. Traverse easily right along the ledge to a crack.

3. 45 metres - Up the crack, then on up the slab above, tending left at the end.

Some good, easy and exposed climbing along a rightwards traverse. Starts at the top of Denethor P2. To get there, either climb Denethor P1 and P2 or carefully walk 10m left of Echidna and then climb Denethor P2 (the easy-angled groove).

1. 24 metres - Climb the groove and wall above to a stance in the corner on the right.

2. 10 metres - Climb the lichenous wall on the right, and then traverse right to an airy stance.

3. 18 metres - Continue right along the ledge past a flake to a vertical band of rock of fine texture.

4. 20 metres - Delightful, easy climbing up the band of rock. Continue up to a ledge with a corner belay.

5. 20 metres - Climb up the corner and trend right to easy slabs.

danger, unprotectable climb

A very bold on-sight lead. The climb has been repeated, but only after top-rope inspection. The unprotectable, snaking groove to the left of 'Zog'. Climb to the top of the flakes as for 'Zog', but then follow the thin groove straight up to join a ledge at the 'Girdle Traverse' level.

Just beautiful. It ascends a fragile flake to the right of 'Denethor', and is a great way to finish 'The Girdle Traverse' etc. At the start of the third pitch of 'Denethor', move right for about three metres to a ledge. Climb the leftwards leaning ramp behind to the obvious flake. Up the right hand side with tender loving care, then the slab above to belay.