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Nodes in Lost Village

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Node
Lost Village

A crag with a collection of short but fun climbs with easy parking and close access.

Main cliff

This has the majority of climbs. Routes are described L to R, in order reached by the access track.

Main cliff
16 Renwars Memoirs

Follow easy corner to arete then crux to anchors.

21 Vetinari

Up small features to rest then up to balancey bulge, over to anchor.

21 Open For Business

Up small crack balancy crux, good moves.

21 2 paws for draws

Follow crack up to gain a rest then move to balancey finish, stick clip first bolt if needed.

20 Rail McRailFace

Gain small ledge for first bolt, find better feet and get second bolt, climb rails to crux, over lip to anchors. Stick clip first bolt if needed.

14 Better homes and gardens

Up crack, tend right around bulge then left to anchors. Watch for rope rub on the way down. Shares anchors with Rail Mc Railface

16 Ego Soup

Start at bottom boulder (stick clip first bolt if needed). Crux to gain ledge and follow jugs to the top!

V0+ The Warm Up

Stand start with hands vertically aligned on two jugs. One long move to high right hand jug and then follow the green streak up. Top is a little chossy.

21 Path of pethidine

Climb boulder in the grotto to get to the first bolt then up features to a nice balancy slab move to gain anchors.

Left wall

Facing the climbs if you follow the trail to the left you will arrive at the left wall

Left wall
20 Four Letter word
21 Highway Robbery
23 Face favours
14 I bolt boulders
Right wall

Follow the track to the right.

Right wall
18 Golden Gay Time

Gain bulge, clip first bolt. Hard start, tend left around mini arete up to anchors. Watch for z clipping from 4th to anchors. Grade is for the start rest of climb is 16.

18 Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious

Gain bulge clip first bolt, shares start with GGT, tend right following crack then up though crux to anchors.

14 Vulvo

Up bulge to gain small ledge and clip first bolt, up fun features to anchors.

Spider Wall

A short, fun boulder wall with good features. Potential for more routes. Climbs listed Right to Left.

Spider Wall
V1 Knees In

Sit Start. Left hand on small horn, right hand on good sloper to the right. Straight up for a nerve-wracking top out. Do what you kneed to!

V0 Knees Out

Stand start, hands on good rail about head height. Move up and left into the corner for a fun top out between the two trees.

V0+ Spider Knees.

A fun variant to Knees Out. Stand start, both hands on good side pull, up to the obvious jug and finish same as for Knees Out. Look out for spiders!

V1 Spider Knees Sit Start

Sit start, both hands on obvious rail. Up to the side pull and away you go.

V2 Not So Kneasy

Stand start, right hand on side pull, left hand on crimp. Move straight up and over the bulge. Big jug/pocket is in but stay out of the corner. Top out to the left of the tree.

V3 Not So Kneasy Sit Start

Sit start on long rail, same as Spider Knees

The Lost Boulders

A collection of boulders on the hillside around lost village.

At the minute most of the boulders west of the brain cave are noted by their position as from the 50 matches boulder.

There's a lot more stuff to be done in this area especially on the hillside under the Misfits boulder. Go out and have a play.

The Lost Boulders
Space Jared

From '50 Matches' boulder head back up hill and a bit west and you should find this boulder just behind the 'Modern baseball' boulder.

The Lost Boulders Space Jared
V3 Jared in the Atmosphere

Sit start as for Space Jared. Traverse left to before making big move up to massive huge enormous King Kong size great big long wide glory jug rail and then mantle.

Can be done the high way (hitting the lip then moving right to the slopey jug as seen in the Oliver Rickford clip) or the low way which traverses the lip and is slightly harder. Awesome either way.

Oliver Rickford

V0+ Beam Me Up Jared!

Sit start matched in right hand pocket. Straight up to jugs and mantle out.

Space Jared

Sit start with hands in pockets. Stay low moving through crimp then big move up and left to lip. Lip traverse all the way to the left and mantle at furthest point.

The Lost Boulders
Modern Baseball

From the 50 Matches Boulder head west and up the hill and you should be able to see this little diamond shaped boulder.

The Lost Boulders Modern Baseball
V0- First Base with Grandpa

Sit start on the left hand side of Diamond traverse up and right to top out.

V0+ Safe at Home

Sit start on the right hand side of Diamond. Traverse lip and top out same as First Base.

The Lost Boulders
50 Matches Boulder

Rather large overhanging boulder. Has some uber classics and a few more lines to be brushed up and done.

The Lost Boulders 50 Matches Boulder
Left Side
V0 The In Decision

Sit start on positive jug, straight up the arete.

V0+ Single Ply

Stand start RH on okay side pull, LH on mini jug. Straight up the seam.

V3 Parcels from the Past

Start with LH of single ply's horn and right hand on crug. Move up and to the right to gain sloper before topping out directly up.

For a fun eliminate try dynoing from the sloper to the horn and then topping out without touching the jugs on the face.

V5/6 A Jar Of Bitter Fruit

Sit start with LH on side pull, RH on large sidepull. Follow the rail to a exciting top out over the lip.

Right Side

Right of the tree in the middle of the boulder.

V4 Stoaked & Soaked

Sit start with both hands matched in the large pocket. Move up and slightly right for interesting sequence to top out.

V0 Halcyon Days

Stand start with two hands on big rail kick feet up. Large chockstone under boulder is out. Ride rail out of overhang then head directly up over bulge for top out.

Tamati Kennedy

V2 Dirt Merchants

Sit start as for Forest Yellies move up to pockets then traverse left along rail and top out above knoblets.

V3 Forest Yellies

Sit start with both hands on rail. Move up and right through pockets and diagonal rail to top out.

The Lost Boulders
The Brain Cave
The Lost Boulders The Brain Cave
V2 Inspiration

Start inside back of cave climbing out left along shelf to mouth of cave, climbing along mouth of cave to obvious finish jug on the right end of cave, when looking at cave from outside

V2 Imagination

Start outside left hand side corner of cave, climbing along mouth of cave to finish jug

V3 Intuition

Climb Inspiration linking into Mind. Climbing mind in reverse

V1 Mind

Start as for Inspiration but climb right directly across roof to Finish Jug

V1 Subconscious

Star in small cave in front left corner of cave climbing to start of Inspiration

V2 Conscious

Start same as Subconscious climbing though middle of cave to end around where Mind crosses roof

V3 Super Conscious

Start same as Imagination climbing through Subconscious into Conscious, following Conscious and continue across Mind until you reach top right hand corner and end of cave

V3 Akashic Record

Climbing Subconscious Linking into Mind

The Lost Boulders
This Isn't Auburn

A small boulder located near the far fire pit. At the top of the Ridge.

The Lost Boulders This Isn't Auburn
V1/2 There and Back Again.

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start matched on rail.

VB Speedrunner Fosh

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start with high jugs.

The Lost Boulders
Misfits Boulder

South face; central vertical seam to topout (open project)(V8?) Left arete (open project)(V5?) Right arete (open project)(easier?)

West face; traverse R to L (V3) L side vertical right tending crack features top out (V1).

Black Valley Bouldering

A decently large collection of boulders strewn from the cliff. Heaps to be developed and updated. Boulders locations need to be updated.

Black Valley Bouldering
The Gully

The first blocs you come to while walking through the gully

Black Valley Bouldering The Gully
Three Part Harmony Sector
Black Valley Bouldering The Gully Three Part Harmony Sector
Great Acoustics for Rage

Sit start on big flake. Traverse left then move up through pocket and unlikely jug to top out.

Black Valley Bouldering
North Facing Ridge

The blocs on the northern side of the black valley ridgeline. These blocs face the lost village.

Black Valley Bouldering North Facing Ridge
Black Cockatoo Boulder
Black Valley Bouldering North Facing Ridge Black Cockatoo Boulder
Zanda Funera

Sit start on right side of boulder using side pull and dish. Stare into the abyss. Levitate up the arete and top out using glory jugs.

Oliver Rickford

Black Valley Bouldering
Southern Sisters

Blocs on the ridgeline which face the south.

Black Valley Bouldering Southern Sisters
Anti-Gravity Love Song Boulder
Black Valley Bouldering Southern Sisters Anti-Gravity Love Song Boulder
Unt Zat Wee

Start with left hand in lower good portion of cracky side pull and right hand on slimper. Move up through some moves then top out at the top.

Black Valley Bouldering
The Black Valley

Keep following the gully down until it descends into the valley proper.

Black Valley Bouldering The Black Valley
Choir of Furies Boulder
Black Valley Bouldering The Black Valley Choir of Furies Boulder
Choir of Furies

Sit start under small overhang. Do a few moves up the tufa like feature and mantle the highest point on the boulder.

Tamati Kennedy

Black Valley Bouldering The Black Valley
Picnic Bloc
Black Valley Bouldering The Black Valley Picnic Bloc
🥔🚄

Sit start on potato. Head straight up.

🍞 🔪

Sit start on crug, shoot right to diagonal rail then mantle directly above crug.

🍌

Sit start on jug traverse right to small arete and then head up.

🥜 Pebble

Sit start matched on pebble.

🍕 ⏱️

Sit start as for Swiss 🧀. Traverse right and link into 🥜 Pebble.

Swiss 🧀

Sit start with divits on rail. Up and left

Oliver Rickford

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