Ascents in Le Souef Plateau

Pretty cool to 2nd one of the first ascensionists on a repeat of one of his old routes! Embarrassing at the same time because I had a nightmare on it (not having ever really done much jamming before). FA Chris Baxter and Geoff Gledhill 27/01/1991

I found this surprisingly difficult for a 13, thought I might've been tired. The upper crack has some nice moves and quite a lot of grass...

Great start then no idea what the guidebook meant

crap gear. only last 5metres are worth doing.

Really scary lead with the best gear for a good deal of the route being the burnt, dead tree that used to hang over the route.

Once you get to the upper crack, the gear is good and the climbing is quite nice.

Trees down everywhere. Bushbash in.

very stiff for the grade

can't remember. got to the slab then backed off. didn't like slabs then.

character building!!

Spoilers

Make sure you have good pro in the top of the corner/crack before you step left on to the face. As the comments of others indicate, the bolt is placed high. I was quite scared.

missed the bolt at the top which meant extra excitement for the top-out

Longer than you think and sustained but pleasant climbing in good company

Little pro at the top

Be careful on top 1/3. Why is that bolt so high ?

pretty damn good climb laybacking and jamming up a flake/crack. good gear most of the way then you have to fiddle in some suspect cams at the top of the crack and run it out on the slab to the bolt. i was pretty damn worried especially when i forgot the bolt plates however i could reach the top of the climb at the last bolt anyway!

A good lead by David .. none of us new what he was letting himself in for - Yoiks!

The top certainly kept me on my toes!

Balked at the run out slab top section and rested on the gear. Great varied climb, exciting all the way.

The first time I led this there was no bolt on the top headwall and it was a real "Buffalo" experience. Now much easier on the head with the added bolt.

Planned on an end of day cruise, ended up being a little spicy. Save a #1 or # 2 totem or equiv for top of crack before stepping to face. Great climb with a good variety of techniques.

impressive looking but crunchy rock underfoot when slabbing puts you off

Hard for old men like me. Harder then it looks

Scary finish way above the bolt with ugly fall potential.

Thrutchy start to the arete using the off-width. It might be better as a bridging exercise to the second bolt, but I couldn't get out there to do it.

downclimb

shazz lead, awesome

really enjoyed this route. Guide book rave is a load of balls.

awfully sharp granite, if y' like that sort of thing

access to the base of the climb is a bitch, not helped by the guide. placed a small cam around the arete, above the 3rd bolt to keep things sane. ignore descent description in guide as there are rap chains at the top.

the best i've done at the grade in buffalo. could do with another bolt unless you feel safe slinging incut crimpers.