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Routes in South Wall - Main for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
27 Kia Kaha Direct
1 26 30m
2 27 20m

Variant to Air Malta overhang. Kia kaha is a Māori phrase used by the people of New Zealand meaning stay strong, used as an affirmation. The phrase has significant meaning for Māori: popularised through its usage by the 28th Māori Battalion during World War II, it is found in titles of books and songs, as well as a motto.

  1. 30m (26) Amaze balls no rest till the end. Huge holds and huge moves.

  2. 20m (27) Bouldery climbing to the crux tufa finish.

FA: Duncan Hunter

FFA: Mark Rewi & Duncan Hunter, 26 Mar 2016

Sport 50m
27 Pumpmaster

Between 'Evolution Direct Finish' and 'The Other End of Evolution'. After freeing past the first three bolts on Evolution P7 take a long rest on the ledge, then head straight up past 9 more bolts.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 18 Oct 2015

Sport 30m, 12
27 Overture to the Sun

First two pitches as for Siblings of the Sun. Then from the second belay go directly up to join a hand crack (rather than trending right and up from this belay, which is Siblings). From here continue up the soaring line of bolts with increasing difficulty, with the final 2 pitches tackling the orange headwall (5m L of Siblings' last 3 pitches).

  1. 25m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

  2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2.

  3. -m (23)

  4. -m (23)

  5. -m (24)

  6. 25m (25) The first 10m is a bit of a contrived squeeze onto Siblings, with rotten bolts and rock which was only ever spot cleaned.

  7. 25m (27) Also great. The only headwall route which is on til the very top. Rebolted recently (2015), so until p6 is fixed its an excellent single pitch rap-in option. All bolts with 1 or 2 optional bits of trad.

FA: John Fantini late 90s, 2000

Trad 75m, 7

Showing all 3 routes.

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