Routes in Bungonia Gorge

The original stand start of 'Wee Willem'.

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up.

Starts left of Nitro Express. From the river bed skirt up and along a ledge to near its end. All bolts and for Bungonia very clean with little loose rock.

1. 30m 23 Follow line of bolts on the right to an overlap at half height with a heinous mantle (crux) then trend up and left to DBB next to bushes. Missing first bolt but one can stick clip the second bolt from the ledge.

2. 20m 21 Follow bolts up and left across slab then up and through the short steep wall to ledge and DBB.

   Move to anchors on the left of the ledge

3. 60m 22 up left of first bolt then follow bolts right then up a long slab and an orange tufa 10m below the overhang. At last bolt traverse right to the anchor at the DBB on ledge.

4. 30m 25 the Money pitch. Climb up the slab till the start of the steep rock, 3 bolts. Climb the juggy run out to the first bolt on the left. Follow very steep ground to mantle the tufa blob!. Jump off the tufa and follow the bolts up right then left to the ledge above. Long draws can help with rope drag (The tufas to the left is a different alt finish)

5. 20m 23 Climb the steep chimney and wall to a ledge. Head right and up the gap between the trees to a DBB. Could use a bolt to climb between ledges but is only grade 10.

   Head right along this ledge to a DRBB 10m.

6. 60m 22 follow the bolts to face crux moves and then wander to the top on easier terrain and DBB. Rope stretcher.

Sitstart

Start at the crack in the middle of the roof and make your way out following the break to a slopy/juggy mantle.

Big boulder under the start is out for the feet.

For sure it has been done before, so if anyone have any information about the FA or the real name of the problem I'll update it!

Mauricio Chino

Sit start and up the face on good holds.

The line with 9 bolts and a hard start. It is possible to avoid the start by traversing in from the right, in which case the route goes at about 23.

Sit start and up left to top out by stepping onto the boulder on the left when you get to the top of the face.

Stand start and traverse the slab left to finish up 'Turkish'.

Marked start (pition) at the nice slab at the far left hand end of the buttress. Watch for loose blocks at the small alcove.

Sit start and up the left side of the steep wall to finish on high jugs.

Stand start and straight up.

Sit start straight up.

Tom Brennan wrote this amazing trip report for OzUltimate in 2011.

http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/track_notes/long_gully.htm

Sit start and up the arete trending right.

Sit start.

Sit start and out the steep wall heading left to top out through the ‘skylight’ hole up high on the left.

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up blocks to top out.

Starts left of Nitro Express. From the river bed skirt up and along a ledge to near its end. All bolts and for Bungonia very clean with little loose rock.

1. 30m 23 Follow line of bolts on the right to an overlap at half height with a heinous mantle (crux) then trend up and left to DBB next to bushes. Missing first bolt but one can stick clip the second bolt from the ledge.

2. 20m 21 Follow bolts up and left across slab then up and through the short steep wall to ledge and DBB.

   Move to anchors on the left of the ledge

3. 60m 22 up left of first bolt then follow bolts right then up a long slab and an orange tufa 10m below the overhang. At last bolt traverse right to the anchor at the DBB on ledge.

4. 30m 25 the Money pitch. Climb up the slab till the start of the steep rock, 3 bolts. Climb the juggy run out to the first bolt on the left. Follow very steep ground to mantle the tufa blob!. Jump off the tufa and follow the bolts up right then left to the ledge above. Long draws can help with rope drag (The tufas to the left is a different alt finish)

5. 20m 23 Climb the steep chimney and wall to a ledge. Head right and up the gap between the trees to a DBB. Could use a bolt to climb between ledges but is only grade 10.

   Head right along this ledge to a DRBB 10m.

6. 60m 22 follow the bolts to face crux moves and then wander to the top on easier terrain and DBB. Rope stretcher.

Sit start with right hand in slot.

"A fun day out"

1. 31 As for Teflon

2. 24

3. 28

4. 29

5. 27

Sit start on the two obvious holds on the right. Up and left to top out.

Squat start on two horizontal edges at same height and out the steep prow to top out.

Stand start and up the arete feature.

A fully bolted rising traverse with a fixed rope starting as for Wicket for one bolt then heading left along a series of ledges and slabby chimneys. This route is used to access the various belay stances for routes in the centre of Phantom Menace Wall. The rope in the upper half (beyond Attack of the Clones) is old - treat with massive caution!

Marked start behind two black boys. Up the corner to the top of a block, then the vertical water chute (crux), being careful with gear (#4 camalot is handy). At the top of the chute step delicately right and continue up the slab (runout and ledge fall potential), diagonally right to the chossy corner and a ledge (can setup hanging belay here if rope drag is getting too much) . Short wall above this to top.

Takes a line through the big orange overhang left of its apex.

1. 25/26

2. 23

3. 20

4. 28? The pitch through the huge orange overhang.

Sit start and up left to finish as for 'Steak & Chips'.

Problem possibly now defunct, large flake came off.

Stand start and straight up.

Sit start straight up.

5m right of the arete project is another punchy little sport route.

Canyoning at Spring Creek is banned.

Sit start and up.

Sit start a couple of metres right of crack V7. Follow small beautiful edges out steep wall.

Start as for 'Siren', but up the left-hand line. Ring bolts & FHs to the same DRB as 'Siren'.

Stand start and up the knife edge arete.

Sit start and straight out the steep nose to top out.

Sit start through underclings to top out.

Sit start with left hand in slot and using right arete.

Up the face then continue right to the base of the arête. Up the arête to double rings. About 6 bolts.

Start: Starts from the top of the gully. Double rings at base.

Stand start on the bloc to the right of 'Rachel Hunter' and head up over the bulge to top out.

Sit start and straight up.

Start from break, up to slopers and mantle.

Starts half a metre left of Sarah Fieg's Route. Bouldery and direct up little prow. Shares anchor with previous route. There's also a LH finish along the lip of the roof to finish into Polenta Pumper.

In there somewhere.

Sit start and out the little roof to finish on jugs.

Stand start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up the face.

Tom Brennan covers Fordam Canyon in the later part of this amazing trip report.

Tom Brennan wrote this amazing trip report for OzUltimate in 2011.

http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/track_notes/long_gully.htm

45 wall. Up the seam and then out right to top out.

Start in cave and head left, following the slopey face up once clear of the roof.

Sustained and strenuous, a classic. Protection is hard to place on the first pitch, and friends have been known to pull out of glassy placements. Fantini himself now says he would not lead pitch 1 again due to the extreme danger of the first 18m. Take it easy.

1. 50m (23) Start on the left edge of the cave. An unprotected start leads to a #3 friend at 9m. Move left around bulge to a steep wall with a fixed sling. Thin moves up this to a ledge (crux) and a no hands rest. Teeter left to surmount the block and then up to a small cave. More sustained but well protected climbing brings you to the belay cave.

2. 50m (23) Lean back and place a wire just above the cave. Step down and traverse leftwards for a few moves and then follow a line of holds to the roof. There is a 2/2.5 friend up high and to the left as well as a fixed pin. Head right through the roof to a rest. Easier climbing leads to a stance at 50m with two bolts.

3. 50m (21) Take the rising groove to the left and continue up leftwards in a rising arc to a block in the overlap. Pull the overlap and continue up a few metres before traversing left to the groove. Up the groove (wires) until it is possible to traverse out left to a bolt rap station.

The next route down and left. This line of bolts finishes through a blank overhanging grey arête which looks virtually impossible and hasn't been climbed. The bottom 20m is good in its own right.

Stand start and up the high face.

Sit start and straight up as for the the finish of 'Gorgeous George'.

Sit start and out the blocky roof to top out slightly to the right.

Variant to Air Malta overhang. Kia kaha is a Māori phrase used by the people of New Zealand meaning stay strong, used as an affirmation. The phrase has significant meaning for Māori: popularised through its usage by the 28th Māori Battalion during World War II, it is found in titles of books and songs, as well as a motto.

1. 30m (26) Amaze balls no rest till the end. Huge holds and huge moves.

2. 20m (27) Bouldery climbing to the crux tufa finish.

The grotty slab next right.

Three pitches of epic hard climbing - bolted ground up. Starts as for Finger Lickn' Good but continues up and left.

1. 60m (27)

2. 55m (32) Is this the longest hard pitch in Oz?

3. 40m (?) The crux pitch?

Sit start and dyno out the roof.

Start up 'The Cut Away' traversing the lip left to finish up 'Angry Chicken'.

Marked start. An excellent climb up the face left of the bushy corner, with slightly tricky protection. Take care to extend gear at the sheoak just below the top to reduce rope drag.

Right of Endless Possibilities

Sit start and directly up to hard slopey mantle.

Just left of the corner. Water washed rock for a few bolts then left and up to anchors. Has been rebolted - new shiny FHs. Some are already loose and required finger tightening (2016, still true in 2019).

Sit start and up the hanging block.

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start and up the left side of the scoop.

Start on the face and right side of the arete, behind a large tree. Very high first bolt - stick clip recommended. Upper third is a bit odd... Nice climbing to be had direct up the bulge, but the third bolt is actually hidden down and right behind a small bush and the route finishes with a traverse across to the rings on Angry Ants.

Start with big moves straight up arete. Starting up crack is only grade 15.

One for the chossophiles. A new route up a hitherto unclimbed wall. Worthwhile except for the terrible second; "Demon Baby" pitch, which will have you questioning every hold, and your love of climbing. Is the rest of it worth it?

To start walk right of Little Thailand wall 50m to find a 10m ramp cutting left across the lower cliff band. All bolts except first pitch.

1. 40m, (5) Easily up ramp (no bolts, can sling trees) then up the talus to a black corner on right. Take a moment to appreciate the immense wall of choss on the left.

2. 35m (23) Up left leaning ramp, the middle 10m is on particularly bad rock, but the cruxes are at the start and end and there are lots of bolts. Semi Hanging Belay.

3. 30m (21) Up, then diagonally left under steep wall to hanging belay

4. 30m (23) Up steep tufas then right and up to belay.

5. 45m (18) Up corner for 30m then ramble to the top to belay off trees.

To walk back to the red track (20 minutes), sidle left, down talus chute 50m then continue sidling left below cliffs, down and across a swampy creek, and onto the track.

Sit start and up obvious line, may have been done before. This block will likely have a number of lines.

Start at ground level, under the subtle left-facing "flake"-type feature.

Stand start and climb the high arete and wall at the far right end of the boulder from 'The Twenty Second Tickle'.

Sit start on underclings and head straight out the steep little prow to top out.

Sit start and straight up the wall.

The obvious crack in the middle of this great little outcrop. Natural protection,fixed rope to belay off (Installed 2018).

Up the slab past three bolts to ledge and tree.

Sit start far left and traverse right to mantle the nose of the roof.

Stand start and mantle the lip.

Marked start. Good climbing throughout (especially up the arete up high), but with a low crux with tricky protection.

Sit start on undercling feature, out roof and up headwall.

Sit start from edges and make a long hard move up right. V1 from stand.

Sit start and out the steep wall to top out.

Sit start and out cave to top out up sharp prow.

Stand start and up the right side of the scoop.

Starts at twin cracks. Crux is high above the third bolt as you move up to the rings.

2 bolts up the slab and to the base of crack and then up the obvious crack, back right to lower offs.

One for the chossophiles. A new route up a hitherto unclimbed wall. Worthwhile except for the terrible second; "Demon Baby" pitch, which will have you questioning every hold, and your love of climbing. Is the rest of it worth it?

To start walk right of Little Thailand wall 50m to find a 10m ramp cutting left across the lower cliff band. All bolts except first pitch.

1. 40m, (5) Easily up ramp (no bolts, can sling trees) then up the talus to a black corner on right. Take a moment to appreciate the immense wall of choss on the left.

2. 35m (23) Up left leaning ramp, the middle 10m is on particularly bad rock, but the cruxes are at the start and end and there are lots of bolts. Semi Hanging Belay.

3. 30m (21) Up, then diagonally left under steep wall to hanging belay

4. 30m (23) Up steep tufas then right and up to belay.

5. 45m (18) Up corner for 30m then ramble to the top to belay off trees.

To walk back to the red track (20 minutes), sidle left, down talus chute 50m then continue sidling left below cliffs, down and across a swampy creek, and onto the track.

Start as for cracking, out through roof and up overhung face to high top out. Will be all time.

Excellent continuous climbing that pushes a direct line up the centre of the South Wall.

The first 4 pitches of this route makes for a straight forward sports climb that is easy to get off in 2 raps if climbing with double ropes. Sport bolted over 6 long days.

1. (24) 25m Start as for ‘Andrews Arête’, hard start moves. (21 if you pull the first two bolts)

2. (21) 40m Continue up following the Siblings bolts until a small corner with a sapling and 'Lucky' bolt hangers. Follow bolts up and right to a bolt belay in pod.

3. (19) 30m Straight up the blunt arête to the green ledge, traverse right 5m to roomy belay with bolts.

4. (24) 25m Great face climbing to a hanging belay.

5. (26) 50m Up right on big holds to a thin punchy crux then continue up joining ‘Overture to the Sun’ briefly and a long runout on easy climbing to belay at the base of the orange wall to the right of the Siblings belay. Chain belay.

6. (30) 30m Orange headwall. Climb the blunt arête with great holds and follow bolts to a semi hanging belay.

7. (27) 30m Exposure at its best, continue up and pull through committing lip (crux) then up on good hold to finish at chain. Walk back to the car park up the hill.

Stand start and out to mantle.

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up the wall.

Start sit start on the far left and top out right