Nodes in Pretty Face

Pretty Face is an emerging crag consisting of a 120-metre high solid cliff overlooking the ocean and onshore reefs, with million-dollar views, this is must-do for climbing in North Queensland. Winter climbing advised. Take plenty of draws! this climb is draw hungry.

The climb starts on the right-hand side of the cliff, on a ledge. The belay bolt is on the left-hand side of the ledge and the first lead bolt is within reach.

This stunning line will lift you from the forest canopy to soaring heights with amazing views back onto the ocean and all the sun exposure you can handle. Take plenty of water and enjoy the breaks on two large ledges along the way. The lead bolts are 6mm twisties and the anchors are a mixture of expansions and twisties.

1. 25m (19) Traverse left and Up along interesting moves, 3D holds and a cheeky right traverse to finish. This is a long and wandering pitch, so extend draws as required and watch for ledge falls. Finish at P1 anchors for a stance/hanging belay that has enough room for three people.

2. 20m (16) Crimpy, slabby, enjoy the view, credit card edges and finger pockets. This will be your rest, so soak it in. You will finish on a fantastic halfway ledge with enough room for dance. Note that you can escape off the climb by traversing along this ledge. The escape is protected by some expansion bolt and a very short grade 14 diagonal slab.

3. 20m (22) Grade 22 with the sequence, 20ish with the reach. Business Time crux pitch, with the hardest move off the deck. Forgiving bolt spacing will help you aid the crux if necessary. The dirty mantle protecting the finish is pure FNQ filth, grab whatever you need to get over this edge. P3 belay is a large ledge. Watch out for bees and lantana. For the 2nder, unclip and retrieve the first couple draws before setting off for the crux to make your life easier. Also the top belayer needs to watch tension here once the climber sets off incase they fall mid crux. With rope stretch the climber could fall into space and find it tricky to get back on #prussics.

4. 26m (19) Fun to start, tricky finish. Steppy, ledgy then becomes vertical with the crux in the last 5m. P4 belay is a seated belay on a slabby edge. The views are stunning! Watch the sharp edge on your rope just before the belay.

5. 12m (5) Legend says the first ascent of this pitch was hands-free, no shoes, no chalk. Please respect this ethic. As contrived as it is, you will finish at the summit proper.

Descent: Rap from P5 down to P4 anchor. Do not try linking the rappel to the top of pitch 3 without an 80m rope (and if done, mitigate rope drag). From P4 anchor, retrace the line. Is advisable to not link pitches on rappel. From P1 anchor, rap straight to the ground, not back to the starting belay bolt.