Nodes in Globe Boulder

Big boulder with multiple lines.

SDS the face on the southern side of the boulder (3m left of Sally the slapper). Low jug, side pull up L to a thin slot and top.

SDS sidepulls to start with shelf feet. Gaston, sidepull top.

Hollow positive hold at the start has been pulled off so problem has been upgraded after feedback.

Low sit start to Sally the slapper. Start on compression crimps, utilising toehooks to gain the underside of the bulge and finish up through the pocket over the lip and out.

Eliminates the arete of STS for hands, feet and hooks and also the big juggy blob at the top of the lower face (mostly so it doesn’t fall off and kill you). Sit start as for sally (or lower if you can do it without Arete). Hard first move to obvious sloper just inside the arete about a metre above the RH start hold then left to juggy horn. Move up past tree without using it (the tree, not the horn 🤦) to gain good holds on mossy upper arete and face to top out. Best not to fall off above tree. Actually climbs pretty well for contrived nonsense.

SDS with obvious jug (RH) and crimp (LH). Slap up and right to good holds around the arete.

Consensus suggests this is more like V3 so upgraded from the original V1.

Addendum (2024): Left hand crimp broke sometime 2022/23 and has become much better. Probably easier than before but still V3.

Probably about V3. Sit start on STS would get it to 4.

Stand start on the double pockets at the end of the boulder near Sally the Slapper. Traverse right and finish up the Twelfth Night. Crux is the move from about King John into the jugs of the Twelfth Night.

SDS Traverse left from Tempest to the arete and up.

If instead of finishing up, you finish down into the starting holds of sally the slapper, and controlledly end in a sit down finish it makes for a fun V3 or so.

SDS. side pulls to jugs

SDS. Move right and up from the starting holds of Tempest

SDS Direct start to Big John avoiding the large starting holds of Tempest. Instead use a gaston edge for the left hand and thin sidepull with thumb catch for the right. The move is about 12 inches but still tougher and more technical than the other 4s down here. V5.

Left hand on the Tempest side pull, right hand on the edge 1.5m to the left. Contort your way out of the bat-hang start, into King John and up.

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

Start with hands matched on obvious pinchy jug above the low layaway (on the nose, not the undercling/layaway 1.5m further left). Campusing out the jugs to exit is about V3/4. Quite fun alternative for when you've conceded defeat on the heinously steep start.

Standing start with hands on the lip. Originally graded V1 but a few crankers have failed to get up it in recent weeks! Could be that it’s hard to find a stylish way, could be that they are closet weaklings that finesse up much harder graded spirt routes or it could be it was a sandbag. Tough for V1 now tough for V2!

Hard sit start using undercling crimps and RH layaway. An eliminate without good layaway should be possible but pretty grunty. Differing opinions of which is easier, this or the measure sit.

Much ado Sit, reverse the Yumegiwa traverse and finish up Measure for Measure. Full value. PS... slopes and jugs around corner to right are out... should you feel inclined.

Stand start with hands on the lip. Keep slapping up on cool slopers. SDS adds difficulty and style.

Great! Technical more than hard. But not easy! RH slopers, LH Gaston edge. Tension climbing to gain slope lip of the stand.

SDS as per The Measure Sit for maximum value for money. Once at lip traverse to finish up Much Ado About Nothing.

Around the right side of the boulder facing uphill.

Easy stand start. SDS goes at about V3.

The original way it was done

Not the Bards best work... SDS just to the right of BDSM starting on a sidepull with the right and BDSM starting crimp for the left. Up to the sidepull scoop for the left and straight up to the shelf above with the right.

Around right from the front face is a very short, over hung face capped by an uncleared hanging slab. Deceptive sit start on pinchy lay aways to gain slopes on lip (big jug up right is out) then get your mantle on. A Castle Hill (god’s own) mantle it is not!