Routes in Churchman's Brook

Frequently Asked Questions when Riding on the Tiger’s Back 19 7m

Right of SA. Heel hook then PLF. 2BR. J. Truscott, M Rosser 26 Jan 05

Before Skywalker was freed this was the hardest climb in the state for years. Start in the corner below the first major overhang. Some brutal upper body moves allow the bolt to be reached. Traverse left under the roof to reach the groove. More strenuous climbing up this gains the crack, which leads to the finishing headwall past the peg, the same finish as Celestial Way (the guide book says Mainliner, but the topo shows CW instead). Rope drag at the bottom is reduced by clipping the first ringbolt on Kindred Spirit.

Start 2m left of Slash and Burn. First clip is rather high. Delicately climb face past two more bolts, with a big move past blank section.

Start as for Gate of Mordor then after reaching the top section trend right following the last two fixed hangers for Red Giant

Start as for Sundowner. Climb to the first bolt, then up and right to reach the piton in the triangular niche on Bootiful. Follow the groove up and left to the sentry box and finish through the overhanging hand jam crack.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-churchmans-brook/

Mixed Trad

The face right of Lost Arrow with a horizontal break at half height. Start on Slanting Crack (you might want to place gear on the start) and then move left onto the face with two fixed hangers and one carrot after.

The first route on the cliff. Climb the crack 4 metres right of Could Have Been Better to a shallow cave. Move up to right of the cave (crux) then straight up to join Rampant Dicks. A bit run out near the top.

Start in the shallow groove in the black rock 3 m to the R of Ornet. Up the groove for 4 m, clip the FH to the L (on Dump Zone). Delicate steps up R through to grassy ledge. Continue up the wall to a ledge, then climb the crack in the wall above avoiding the jug of Caledonian Way. Finish up the L side of the wall above.

Start at the right side of the smooth grey slab 3 m right of Sundowner. Climb the fault past a bolt in a small triangular niche to the sentry box. Exit past the piton in the headwall right of a groove (crux). Scramble to a BR belay.

Follow the right slanting crack 2 metres right of Lost Arrow. Finish by going straight up the sentry box. Two fixed hangers at the anchor.

Start up the crack 1 m left of the corner and follow it to the top of the block. Finish as for Caledonian Way.

1 carrot, 4 fixed hangers

The obvious V-section crack 2m right of Slash and Burn.

Start in the corner at the left edge of smooth slab, as for Caledonian Way. Before reaching top of block, step right onto face and up a shallow groove to finish. Keep the two triangular niches on the right.

Start 2m right of Bodgy Dolts. Up overhanging groove to stand on large ledge to the right. Up next bulge and climb wall until it steepens, then traverse right into a shallow groove and crack, the mid point of Up for Grabs, to finish.

Follow hand crack until gaining the first ledge. A carrot bolt has been added to the second ledge to protect the mantle. Powerful moves on delicate gear are required to follow the overhang to the left. The top section is runnout but cruisy

Start per The Bite, protecting with gear. Climb to the tree and sling it. Move directly up past the tree and to the right to the single FH. Hard moves see you high above bolt, but keep climbing up easier rock to an optional cam placement and eventually the DBB.

Start 3 m right of Caledonian Way. Climb the wall on thin holds to the first bolt. Step left delicately to below the small bulge. Desperate climbing gains a tenuous foothold below the second bolt. The high left handhold can be gained by a variety of frightening moves. Continue on easier rock and finish as for Major. If you fall during the tricky clip of the 2nd bolt you may well deck out. Character building.

Start 1 m right of Flypaper at the moss-speckled wall with a thin crack. Climb the wall directly to the bolt of Flypaper. Finnish through small V-notch in the skyline.

Up arete left of The Sting chimney. First FH is high, can place large cam in back of groove fpor protection, however, this will addd rope drag. Climb up arete with increasing desperation untill 4th FH, then run it ou up left side of groove. Best hard climb at Churchmans Brook

Six Minute Increments 22 7m

2m left of Stranded Asset. Fight your way up at the very LHE of the cliff. Strenuous billing does not stop until there is a resolution. BR to DBB. M Rosser, J. Truscott 26 Jan 05

As for Celestial Way but instead of traversing right go straight up, clipping the two fixed hangers along the way. Above the bulge take the thin crack to niche and fixed hanger, then move to the next large niche and another fixed hanger. Continue up crack to scoop then mantle to finish. Some wall wires or even microcams are handy.

Starts in front of a large marri, mantle to the shelf.

Start just to the left of Red Giant at the overhanging left side of the block. Up to the line of Red Giant and follow it to the first bolt. Move right and up face past the next bolt to a large ledge. Move left and up the wall past another bolt to finish (crux).

*Stranded Asset 21 7m. Relax to the max before attempting the pumpy wall and rooflet at the far LHE of the cliff. 2BR to DBB. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 7 Nov 04

Route is located on the initial wall that begins near the last stone step of the approach path.

Climb the tapering crack towards DBB. It gets easier and better protected higher up.

Start in the corner at the left edge of the smooth slab. Climb the corner for 12 metres to the top of the block. Up just left of orange overhangs to finish.

Start 2m right of First Route at a short wall with a sentry box at 4m and groove above. Climb left of the wall then right onto ledge. Up groove to next ledge. Straight up to sloping V-shaped ledge and traverse right to triangular rock. Step left and straight up to finish.

Climb the crack 3 m R of the gully and the short wall above to the grassy ledge. Move 4 m R and follow the crack up to the headwall. Climb this to the top.

Start 2 m right of Bootiful. Climb through the two V-shaped niches and take the great wall direct past a bolt at 15 m. Gaining the bolt is totally desperate.

A faint vertical weakness 2m right of Fingers and Toes. Climb straight up past two bolts (crux) to reach easier ground. A bit runout past the second bolt.

The first ascent done without the first bolt, which was added in 2023

The most deceptive line on the crag. Start at the blocks just right of Red Giant. Up over the bulge to clip. Move left to a triangular niche and up thin lay-away crack past another bolt, into a cave. Step right to an undercling, clip and grovel to the top.

Up to ledge right end of roof, then climb the short flake to clip the fixed hanger on the headwall to the left. Swing out left and claw past a carrot bolt (crux) to a sloping ledge below a bulge and another carrot bolt. Straight up over the bulge for 2m then diagonally left to a small spike/flake. Up left again to enter the large crack then up the wall right of the piton to finish. Alternatively, another good way to finish is as for Gates of Mordor.

The roof system 2 m right of Up For Grabs. Clip the bolt from the large rock platform. Jump or if tall enough, stretch to the undercling. Swing up to the second small overhang, clip bolt and up to the next bolt with great difficulty. Finish up the flaky wall past last bolt of Kindred Spirit.

The sport route with 5 fixed hangers. Up overhanging start, layback over bulge to clip third bolt (crux). Directly up face on small holds, staying out of Gabbro Grove, past two more bolts to top. Two ring bolts at the anchor.

Climb jugs on arete to gain first bolt and struggle up desperate hold to reach second bolt. Crux is moving from the 4th to thr 5th bolt. Some brave people skip the 5th bolt as it can be difficult to clip. Re-bolted in '92 so the name no longer applies, really.

Climb face 2 m R of Ornet, clip FH and continue up L of it. Above the grassy ledge climb the L arête of sloping, blank slab L of bush to finish. Better than it looks from the ground.

Start as for First Route, protecting with gear if desired. Then go direct up the wall to the right of the First Route crack to the first FH. Continue along the bolted line towards the top out.

As for Super Slab but after the first bolt go directly up to the second one and then directly up to the sentry box above. Finish up the crack.

Strenuous climbing 2m right of Celestial Way. From the ledge climb overhanging arete past two fixed hangers to join Mainliner at piton.

The line with 4 large ringbolts 2m left of the Up for Grabs corner. The first bolt should be stick-clipped or alternatively it can be reached by climbing to the first fixed hanger of Funky Gibbon. Start from ledge, directly up wall past bolt to reach the left edge of roof (crux). Ape out right, clip second bolt over the roof, then thin'n'crispy face past 2 more bolts. Stay out of the gully.

Shares start with A Boring Day in Baghdad. Place some small friends then tremble and quiver your way up the overhanging wall with 2 bolts to DBB.

Shares Start with Whiskey With A Sting in the Tail and then follows bolts right. Continue past the ledge to find a single bolt to use as an anchor

Start bellow the carrot bolt and then follow the line up to Calophylla Crack before venturing right

Start just to the left of Red Giant at the overhanging left side of the block. Up to the line of Red Giant and follow it to the first bolt. Move right and up face past the next bolt to a large ledge. Move left and up the wall past another bolt to finish (crux).

As for Super Slab but after the first bolt go directly up to the second one and then directly up to the sentry box above. Finish up the crack.

A faint vertical weakness 2m right of Fingers and Toes. Climb straight up past two bolts (crux) to reach easier ground. A bit runout past the second bolt.

The first ascent done without the first bolt, which was added in 2023

The most deceptive line on the crag. Start at the blocks just right of Red Giant. Up over the bulge to clip. Move left to a triangular niche and up thin lay-away crack past another bolt, into a cave. Step right to an undercling, clip and grovel to the top.

Start as for Sundowner. Climb to the first bolt, then up and right to reach the piton in the triangular niche on Bootiful. Follow the groove up and left to the sentry box and finish through the overhanging hand jam crack.

The roof system 2 m right of Up For Grabs. Clip the bolt from the large rock platform. Jump or if tall enough, stretch to the undercling. Swing up to the second small overhang, clip bolt and up to the next bolt with great difficulty. Finish up the flaky wall past last bolt of Kindred Spirit.

Start at the right side of the smooth grey slab 3 m right of Sundowner. Climb the fault past a bolt in a small triangular niche to the sentry box. Exit past the piton in the headwall right of a groove (crux). Scramble to a BR belay.

Start 2 m right of Bootiful. Climb through the two V-shaped niches and take the great wall direct past a bolt at 15 m. Gaining the bolt is totally desperate.

Up to ledge right end of roof, then climb the short flake to clip the fixed hanger on the headwall to the left. Swing out left and claw past a carrot bolt (crux) to a sloping ledge below a bulge and another carrot bolt. Straight up over the bulge for 2m then diagonally left to a small spike/flake. Up left again to enter the large crack then up the wall right of the piton to finish. Alternatively, another good way to finish is as for Gates of Mordor.

Shares start with A Boring Day in Baghdad. Place some small friends then tremble and quiver your way up the overhanging wall with 2 bolts to DBB.

Start 1 m right of Flypaper at the moss-speckled wall with a thin crack. Climb the wall directly to the bolt of Flypaper. Finnish through small V-notch in the skyline.

Start 3 m right of Caledonian Way. Climb the wall on thin holds to the first bolt. Step left delicately to below the small bulge. Desperate climbing gains a tenuous foothold below the second bolt. The high left handhold can be gained by a variety of frightening moves. Continue on easier rock and finish as for Major. If you fall during the tricky clip of the 2nd bolt you may well deck out. Character building.

Shares Start with Whiskey With A Sting in the Tail and then follows bolts right. Continue past the ledge to find a single bolt to use as an anchor