Ascents in Harlequin Buttress

So so hard. Got massively shut down! Roof crack was sick, but turning the lip seems utterly impossible until I’m wayyyyyy better. The top was really insecure and tricky too! A spooge nightmare

Goofy fall, sad now. unsend?

In december 2017 (over six years ago!!) I down climbed very quickly from about ten metres up this route (read: decked from ten metres with my dad belaying…) and didn’t weight the rope. I am therefore very happy to complete this many year long quest to onsight Harelquin with my brain still in tact. I also used my one helmet token for the year, seemed reasonable.

A lil bit of everything. Super varied and fun

Rpt.

Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.

Tricky little sucker at the start. Quite hot in the sun.

A fantastic line to climb. A burly start with some awkward moves. I slipped and fell into a footjam so never weighted gear

The 5m slab run out at the end, while technically easy, was memorable.

Very good protection throughout otherwise.

Could couldn’t pull the lip, cleaned it, might not be back

Was a sweet climb corner crux

Bad rock, start of the crux flake is about to blow, was great from then on

So good! Would be a heady lead, finished up the first crack way up top of the buttress

finally got rid of that pink point ascent

Nice route. Learnt a new word. Spooge. Note to self: spooge bad

Felt spooked on this but slowly got there.

Difficult to read the bottom strenuous section. Slab was easy

interesting, awesome line. Middle bit felt very hard for me

1 sit at crux

Pretty wild how many awesome moves and different styles are packed into about 10m of climbing! Amazing route and deserves more attention. Crux is very reach dependant, maybe doesnt go for wingspans under 175cm or so...

Last go before I had to leave Tassie. Unfortunately I was not well rested enough to give it the beans at the layback, and ended up desperately plugging in a cam to save myself a massive whip.

Really enjoyed this. Other than pulling up on the first bolt (as per the guidebook), this climb was just so exciting and hard. Came unstuck in the layback/crack at the top. Rack beta: I recommend a single rack of cams up to BD #3 including micro cams, an extra BD 0.4 and #3 cam, and a single rack of small wires to protect the otherwise unprotected move to obtain the second ledge. I found it easier to put the big cams on my right.

Loved it. The friction slab finish was amazing.

Good but there's no way this is a 15 like the guidebook suggests. Probably more like a 17. I misread the topo though, and accidentally went up the finger cracks to the left on the top instead of the obvious crack directly ahead. That side is probably an 18.