Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
14 | ★★ Action - with Gretta Axelsen | 150m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
Sam tooks photos, on flickr
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14 | ★★ Action | 150m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Mar 1979 | ||||
fuckin scary
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20 | FA Mystery Achievement | 10m | Dangars Gorge | Average | 1979 | ||||
a bit short, good fun
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8 | FA Fairy Choss | 60m | Dangars Gorge | Crap | 1979 | ||||
good if you like mank and choss
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16 14 | ★★ Action - with Scotty | 150m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th May 2019 | ||||
Really happy to finally get on this route. I think I first looked at Dangars 10 years ago and imagined what it would be like. Well, it was great and certainly delivered. Really good clean climbing in parts (particularly on P1-P3), but plenty of loose blocks (P3-P5), and a few chossy teetering towers here and there and we even a couple of passing showers thrown in the mix to keep us on our toes.
Pretty good wire placements throughout despite the routes reputation, need to be careful with cam placements though this rock spits them out pretty easily. Probably a few sections that warranted a stiffer grade (16-17), but I guess that the nature of a choose your own adventure, slightly wandering route. Linked P1 & P2, seconded P3, linked P4 & P5. Climbed on twin 60’s. Good times
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16 14 | ★★ Action | 150m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jun 2019 | ||||
Epicly good route. Climbing days don't get much better than this. Paul and I rapped the falls with a 200m static (70m left over) and climbed out in a couple hours. The walk in was quite easy, but we were thinking of doing a couple routes in one day. We stayed left of the obvious ledgey chossy route (11?) and had about 3-4 significant cruxes on the route. Only about 15 total meters of loose rock, generally good stuff and pro where you need it. The hardest sections for us were getting to the ledge mentioned for the belay if p2-3. Then the steep juggy section into a sweet 3m handcrack at the first 10m of pitch 3. And then a good but hard finger crack (arcing left) about 40m from the top and the final topout (definitely not the crux of the route we took as the guide sugests) with some blank pro and mega exposure.
Great day. But more like 16-17 than 14.
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14 | ★★ Action - with Graham | 150m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jul 2009 | ||||
14 | ★★ Action - with Cedric | 150m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Jun 2021 | ||||
Epic and beautiful. We went of route almost all the way. It is "a little" bit sketchy with quite a lot of loose rocks at the last pitch.
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14 | ★★ Action - with Sonia Komonen | 150m | Dangars Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Big time adventure! Easily one of the most scenic multis I've done awesome setting next to the waterfall, got quite wet. Not sure if we were on the right route the whole time but it was a complete choss fest! Very awesome topping out
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DWS | |||||||||
★ White Lightening | 10m | Dangars Gorge | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | ||||||
WOOOOO first ascent
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23 | Stomach Acid | 10m | Dangars Gorge | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | |||||
Quality climb
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Project 1 | 10m | Dangars Gorge | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | ||||||
★★ Dyno-Soar (Dyno project 2) | 2m | Dangars Gorge | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | ||||||
AMAZING DYNO
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse (Project 3) | 20m | Dangars Gorge | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | |||||
great under clings
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Match, Thor Burey, April | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | ||||
A great first climb in the Dragons Belly.
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12 | Salmon Run - with Al, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 10m | Dangars Gorge | Average | Sat 30th Jan 2016 | ||||
Not really DWS, but you'd get to the water eventually.
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23 | ★★★ Hungry Catfish, Frothing Dragon Traverse - with Al, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 1m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jan 2016 | ||||
A really nice route with techy gastons, laybacks and compression moves. Will it go? We think so, probably better attempted when the rock isn't seeping from the previous days rain. Oh yeah, mind the spiders and bird shit.
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22 | ★ Underbelly - with Al, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 2m | Dangars Gorge | Sat 30th Jan 2016 | |||||
Hard! Has to be something hiding around the buldge. Again, a bit too wet to make it work today. A nice low-ball.
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24 | ★★ 'Dis'-Location - with Al, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 5m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jan 2016 | ||||
A nice find by Al. He was all over It until a crucial foot went astray and turned a tight gaston into inspiration for the name of the climb.Under the rooflet I ended up heading left where Al went right. Scope for an alternate finish out right into M.E.T.ext. Nice and fingery with small feet.
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21 | ★ Dyno Access Ramp - with Al, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 3m | Dangars Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 30th Jan 2016 | ||||
Good fun. An easy one to keep throwing yourself at to try and get to the block a little easier than Thor's Traverse.
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★★ Dyno-Soar - with Al, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 2m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Jan 2016 | |||||
Love this dyno. That feeling when you launch high with total concentration off great pockets, only to miss the finish hold and free fall backwards into the cool watery depths. First shot is always a warm/psych up. I landed a left on the finish hold on my second attempt but couldn't stick it. At least it feels like it'll go now. Haven't been entirely convinced until now.
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23 | ★★ Middle Earth Traverse - with Al, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 50m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jan 2016 | ||||
Enjoyed pushing this route.
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23 | ★★★ Middle Earth Traverse Extension - with Al, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 30m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jan 2016 | ||||
A really enjoyable section. The blocky stemming compression was the highlight. Can't wait to see if this traverse can go further still!
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Al, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jan 2016 | ||||
Always the first route to do at D.B. A great warm up and about the only route you'll do all day with dry shoes!!!
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15 | ★ Waterfall Run - with Brendan Heywood, Iliane Beuke, Ben Vincent | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 28th Dec 2016 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Hungry Catfish, Frothing Dragon Traverse - with Brendan Heywood, Iliane Beuke, Ben Vincent | 1m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Dec 2016 | ||||
Stoked to get this.
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★★ Dyno-Soar - with Brendan Heywood, Iliane Beuke, Ben Vincent | 2m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 28th Dec 2016 | |||||
Another soar another tickle...
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23 | ★★ Middle Earth Traverse - with Brendan Heywood, Iliane Beuke, Ben Vincent | 50m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Dec 2016 | ||||
Really enjoy this slow, epic traverse, despite it being terrifying in parts (it's solid)...
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23 | ★★★ Middle Earth Traverse Extension - with Brendan Heywood, Iliane Beuke, Ben Vincent | 30m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Dec 2016 | ||||
See above comment. Still scope for extension...
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Brendan Heywood, Iliane Beuke, Ben Vincent | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Dec 2016 | ||||
Always finding new holds on this route.
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Ben Vincent | 20m | Dangars Gorge | Wed 28th Dec 2016 | |||||
Wandered off on a lower route into ... the water
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23 | ★★★ Middle Earth Traverse Extension - with Ben Vincent | 30m | Dangars Gorge | Wed 28th Dec 2016 | |||||
Only did the first few moves and hip gave me trouble so bailed
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20 | Waterfall Traverse - with Dr.Phil | 2m | Dangars Gorge | Sun 8th Jan 2017 | |||||
Very stemmy.
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12 | Salmon Run - with Dr.Phil | 10m | Dangars Gorge | Average | Sun 8th Jan 2017 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Hungry Catfish, Frothing Dragon Traverse - with Dr.Phil | 1m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jan 2017 | ||||
Pushed the traverse a little further this time...
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Dr.Phil | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jan 2017 | ||||
21 | ★ Dyno Access Ramp - with Dr.Phil | 3m | Dangars Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 8th Jan 2017 | ||||
Not even close!
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★★ Dyno-Soar - with Dr.Phil | 2m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Jan 2017 | |||||
22 | ★ Underbelly - with Dr.Phil | 2m | Dangars Gorge | Sun 8th Jan 2017 | |||||
Really cool moves, nice to find the missing link.
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18 | ★ Dr. Phil's Mantle Piece - with Dr.Phil | 4m | Dangars Gorge | Sun 8th Jan 2017 | |||||
A fun line with a committing little mantle
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22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse - with Ben Vincent, Phil | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Mar 2017 | ||||
Stoked to onsight this, blind moves. Think I mostly fluked it great quality rock
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24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond - with Ben Vincent, Phil, Alan Ezzy | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Mar 2017 | ||||
Got up to the big sloppy section, more great rock, just a long way to get there for a second attempt
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25 | ★★★ Saturday Superheroes - with Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 6m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Mar 2017 | ||||
A sweet beast, improbably good rock and features. Got to the missing square and then headed left into a little chip. Next obvious goal is to keep linking to the swallows nest
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17 | ★ Steeden - with Brendan Heywood, Alan Ezzy, Dr.Phil | 5m | Dangars Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 8th Mar 2017 | ||||
Eely eely fun...
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25 | ★★★ Saturday Superheroes - with Alan Ezzy, Brendan Heywood, Dr.Phil | 6m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 8th Mar 2017 | ||||
Pushed it to the ceiling - stoked as! Scope for left extension into swallow territory
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22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse - with Alan Ezzy, Brendan Heywood, Dr.Phil | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Mar 2017 | ||||
Starting to get the crux sequence dialed meow.
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24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond - with Alan Ezzy, Brendan Heywood, Dr.Phil | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Mar 2017 | ||||
Didn't quite get to the mud wasps nest this time. Goal is to link this to the swallows nest/end of S.S extension
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15 | ★ Waterfall Run - with Brendan Heywood, Alan Ezzy, Dr.Phil | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 8th Mar 2017 | ||||
Another jump, another run.
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Alan Ezzy, Mark, carol lee | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Dec 2018 | ||||
21 | ★ Dyno Access Ramp - with Alan Ezzy, Mark, carol lee | 3m | Dangars Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Dec 2018 | ||||
★★ Dyno-Soar - with Alan Ezzy, Mark, carol lee | 2m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Dec 2018 | |||||
Got a hand on it...!
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23 | ★★ Middle Earth Traverse - with Alan Ezzy, Mark, carol lee | 50m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Dec 2018 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Middle Earth Traverse Extension - with Alan Ezzy, Mark, carol lee | 30m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Dec 2018 | ||||
22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse - with Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy, Benji, Mark, Leo | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Dec 2018 | ||||
24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond - with Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy, Benji, Mark, Leo | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Dec 2018 | ||||
Feell at pretty well same place as last time. It feels harder than superheroes, but I think that's misleading as it just takes ages to get to the crux
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Brendan Heywood, Benji | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Dec 2018 | ||||
23 | ★★ Middle Earth Traverse - with Brendan Heywood, Benji | 50m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Dec 2018 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Middle Earth Traverse Extension - with Brendan Heywood, Benji | 30m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Dec 2018 | ||||
Pushed the traverse extension another 10m or so by descending down and left. Got a hand on a juggy rest before dropping off. Looks as though the next moves will be going up again!
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25 | ★★★ Mucho mierda - with Brendan Heywood, Alan Ezzy, Benji, Mark | 12m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 29th Dec 2018 | ||||
Pretty stoked to see this extension go. Potential to link TIAB.
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22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse - with Brendan Heywood, Alan Ezzy, Benji, Mark | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Dec 2018 | ||||
24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond - with Brendan Heywood, Alan Ezzy, Benji, Mark | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Dec 2018 | ||||
Slippery pinches and slopers in the sun...Fell short several moves from the mud wasp nest.
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22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse - with Ben Vincent, Andrew Woolley, Vaska, Scott Camps | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
Jumped on to warm up, was a little blase and almost fell off a meter in. Also dabbed the water as I rounded the crux. Should Dab be a legit DWS tick type? I guess it doesn't benefit you like it would touching a pad, but it is also a gauge of quality so why not?
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24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond - with Ben Vincent, Andrew Woolley, Vaska, Scott Camps | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
Had a good crack, felt more in control and progressed another move, and the next 3 or so clear in my head
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25 | ★★★ Mucho mierda - with Ben Vincent, Benji, Mark, Leo | 12m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Dec 2018 | ||||
Watched Benji clutch desperately at what he said was not a good hold and decided to give try it, lo and behold I stuck it and wicked stoked to unlock the next couple meters to the super juicy birds nests.
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25 | ★★★ Mucho mierda - with Ben Vincent, Andrew Woolley, Vaska, Scott Camps | 12m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
Felt great, hit the dyno perfect on the first time for the first time (instead of slapping, fall, catch, re-adjust and go again) and then moved to the roof jugs statically. Had an explore through the next 4 or so moves before splashing down
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26 | ★★★ Dance of the Dragonfly (Ben's link TBA) - with Ben Vincent, Andrew Woolley, Vaska, Scott Camps | 25m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
Second burn after I watched Ben Vincent unlock the whole traverse. Was a bit sloppier this time, got dyno only on second try like before, was a little pumped at the birds nest and didn't recover much. Got onto the crux hold, feet need to be way further around
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20 | ★★ Super League - with Ben Vincent, Andrew Woolley, Vaska, Scott Camps | 8m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
Fun jugs and slopers with a few campus moves
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22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse - with Ben Vincent, Brendan Heywood | 20m | Dangars Gorge | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | |||||
Close, got to the crux near the end.
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26 | ★★★ Dance of the Dragonfly - with Andrew Woolley, Brendan Heywood, Vaska, Scotty | 25m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
Woohoo! Milked the rests to get through this one. Great psych, epic route!
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24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond - with Andrew Woolley, Brendan Heywood, Vaska, Scotty | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
Fell short bumbling around the pinch.
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24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond - with Andrew Woolley, Brendan Heywood, Vaska, Scotty | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
got through to the wasp nest after Scotty and Skip pointed out a few key holds. I then spied a couple of new holds that materialised and gave hope to a link up with MM
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22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse - with Andrew Woolley, Brendan Heywood, Vaska, Scotty | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Andrew Woolley, Brendan Heywood, Vaska, Scotty | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
23 | ★★ Middle Earth Traverse - with Andrew Woolley, Brendan Heywood, Vaska, Scotty | 50m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Middle Earth Traverse Extension - with Andrew Woolley, Brendan Heywood, Vaska, Scotty | 30m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
Pushed it another 3m to the Cobblers Pegs. Slowly getting closer...
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25 | ★★★ Mucho mierda | 12m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
Had a play out towards DOTD but dropped off at the crux.
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24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
traverse run
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
dyno run
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
dyno run
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21 | ★ Dyno Access Ramp | 3m | Dangars Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
Chalk bag collection
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★★ Dyno-Soar | 2m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | |||||
Got the height but slapped the sloper to the right
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★★ Dyno-Soar | 2m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | |||||
Eyed it up properly this time and got a whole hand on the ledge for half a second before popping-off...maybe next shot?
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23 | ★★ Middle Earth Traverse | 50m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Middle Earth Traverse Extension | 30m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
A little humid and moist under foot today. Didn't quite get to the second corner.
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20 | ★★ Super League - with Andrew Woolley, Brendan Heywood, Vaska, Scotty | 8m | Dangars Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||
Fun and pumpy!
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Brendan Heywood, and crew | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
★★ Dyno-Soar - with Brendan Heywood, and crew | 2m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | |||||
Another 4 shots. I think I was pretty close to sticking it again.
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24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond - with Brendan Heywood, and crew | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
Stopped before the wasp nest and tried explore the cool features above.
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22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse - with Brendan Heywood, and crew | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
Most numbers I've seen on this route at once today. Fun times!
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Ben Vincent, Andrew Woolley, Vaschka Koboroff, Scott Camps | 20m | Dangars Gorge | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | |||||
★★ Dyno-Soar - with Ben Vincent, Andrew Woolley, Vaschka Koboroff, Scott Camps | 2m | Dangars Gorge | Sun 13th Jan 2019 | ||||||
20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse - with Ben Vincent, Sarita, Betty, carol lee | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
Love the nose moves on this
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★★ Dyno-Soar - with Ben Vincent, Sarita, Betty, carol lee | 2m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | |||||
So much fun failing
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24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond - with Ben Vincent, Sasha Gerzha, Sarita, Betty, Chloe, Zac, carol lee | 10m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
Not the best attempt, was sloppy coming around the roof, fell well before previous high point
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22 | ★★ Toy Story Traverse - with Ben Vincent, Sasha Gerzha, Sarita, Betty, Chloe, Zac, carol lee | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
Super long send train, I think we had 8 people queued up along this thing!
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20 | ★★ Thor's Traverse | 20m | Dangars Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Feb 2020 | ||||
Discovering more holds everytime!
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