Routes in Leaning Wall

Left of the leaning wall is a small gully scramble to access the top. Climb the big step and step over dead trees veering right under a tree branch at a boulder to reach another small gully. Scramble up the wall on the right to gain the top, then walk East to another small 2m down-climb marked by a cairn. Duck along a ledge under a small overhang heading South until you can get onto the main plateau. Here you can find 2, 1 bolt wrap stations and 1, 2 bolt set of chains for serious wrapping. Most of the climbs can be setup as top-ropes by wrapping over the edge and dropping your rope on a set of chains.

Begin in the wide chimney/cave at the left end of the wall. Climb up inside this as far as possible before wriggling out onto the wall proper. Follow the crack for a few moves, then switch to the wall on the left and finish up this.

Start right of T.M.L. on a slopey diagonal. Clip the low bolt and climb through the crux on small holds. Enjoy big moves on big holds trending right to finish at the chains. 6 bolts + chains. Matty Broadbent Closed Project 2016.

The large crack right of F.O.T.B. Trad gear with chains to finish.

Follows prominent right facing corner stepped by roofs to a set of chains.

Stuart Williams climbed this line free until one or two moves below the top when he fell. He did this in 1988 before any bolts were placed. Now follow the line of bolts left and around the flake before joining the line up the steep wall. 3 bolts then trad + chains. Bolts are rusty and need replacing (installed pre 1990). Chains are new (2016).

Originally climbed by Matt Adams on trad gear, now climb the huecoed crack 2m right of G.O.S. stepping left at the 4th bolt to end up face past many horizontal breaks. 6 bolts + chains.

Right of L.W.O. 3 rusted bolts can be seen leading up the blank slab and over a small rooflet. Attempted by Hamish Meffin in the 1980s. CURRENT OPEN PROJECT. Nice set of new chains (2016) at the top to clip when you send it. Replacing the bolts on the climb would be a good idea before you try this, they are old (1980's) and rusty.

An old Meffin project. Start in the rightward leaning crack trending right, then trend back left halfway up. 7 bolts + chains.

Start on the cheat stone and step up into the leaning undercling crack. Trend right past a double crux at the 2nd and 3rd bolts to gain good holds, then follow the sequential horizontal breaks into a 3rd and potent crux. 6 bolts + chains. Robert Brooks CLOSED PROJECT 2016

Up the crack right of S.F.P. Attempted by Mark Witham & Hamish Meffin in the 1980s before lowering off fixed wire, which still remains. A core intensive layback leads to tough jamming and a rather dynamic crux. Stay off the right hand wall. Great gear at the bottom leads to a fixed wire, followed by 2 bolts in the crux section. Mixed route, 2 bolts + chains.