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Let's Get Ready To Rumble!

Access: Please read access information section!

Access to this area is in jeopardy - please read access information about how you can prevent this area being closed. You may be fined by the police or asked to leave if you do not follow this advice.

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago
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Description

At the west end of Shark Beach you'll find a honeycombed boulder with an overhang running the entire front length. This boulder offers some fun and pumpy overhang problems at the front and some nail biting highball slab problems at the rear. Bring a good spotter for the slab. The rock quality of the overhang is excellent but the slab and the sandstone pillar have a few potential hollow breaks on the way so test all holds before committing.

Access issues inherited from Vaucluse

Access to this area is in jeopardy! Please read this important information before climbing here.

To access this area requires climbing a fence that is marked “Keep out, no access”. This fence has been erected to stop suicides and risky selfie takers. In recent years climbers have been approached by NSW Police and Waverly Council rangers when crossing this fence. In 2021 police have issued fines for climbers crossing this fence during Covid lockdown.

A November 16, 2020 Waverly Council meeting confirmed that climbers are not supposed to be receiving infringement notices for accessing climbing areas but authorities will intervene if they believe that members of the public are putting themselves at risk.

“Council enforcement staff have been applying a discretionary approach to enable rock climbers, slack liners and fisherman to access areas at Diamond Bay and Eastern Avenue Reserve. Rangers will not issue infringement notices to this group of people.”

Police attend more than 50 suicides a year along this coastline. A woman fell to her death whilst partying on the cliff edge of Diamond Bay in 2020 and Council rangers and police have been instructed to stop this happening again. The fence is part of their enhanced community safety plan.

Do not cross the fence in front of walkers and sightseers. Don't create a false alarm by hanging around at the top of the climbing area on the wrong side of the fence. Bystanders may mistake you for a potential jumper and report it. Make it obvious you are a climber by wearing a harness and helmet at all times - put them on in the carpark so there is no confusion about your intentions to outsiders. Always remain harnessed up and attached to anchors when near cliff edges. Be discrete and low key - this is not the place to pose and perform in front of bystanders.

Actively discourage any bystanders from climbing the fence to see what you are climbing or to take selfies. The cliffs are for experienced climbers and slackliners only - not a place for tourists to take photos. As a climber please avoid taking photographs of your mates climbing from the cliff top - this will just encourage non -climbers to join you.

If you are approached by police or rangers please follow their instructions and report any interactions to Sydney Climbers Facebook group and Australian Climbing Association NSW (ACANSW) via email president@nsw.climb.org.au

ACANSW suggests you print out page 5 from the following Waverly Council meeting notes and keep this on you when climbing in the area to show to any police or rangers. https://www.waverley.nsw.gov.au/data/assets/pdffile/0020/187310/DoverHeights_Report_for_Motions_from_November_2020_correct.pdf

ACANSW continues to discuss these access issues with Waverly Council and local police in the hope we can maintain access for climbers in future years.

Approach

Make your way to Greycliffe Ave in Vaucluse where you'll find an extensive car park next to Neilsen Park. Walk through the park and head west to find this outstanding boulder and impressive looking pillar.

History

History timeline chart

After reading about this blank piece of rock Brendon Flanagan headed down to see if it was worthy of development. As soon as be got to the massive chunks of sandstone all be could do was wonder...why no one bad developed this before!

Several a weeks of spare time development in the spring of 2012 the rocks were covered in chalk and problems.

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

Routes

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Grade Route

With the beach to your back face the overhang. Start at the far right, take a good hold, put your toes in the honeycomb and you're ready to rumble. Traverse your way to the sandstone wall. Pumpy!

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

Start as for TN. Traverse halfway along to the last overhanging flake and top out.

Set: Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

Start at the far left of the deep scoop. Jump start, toes to the honeycomb then as for THN.

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

Jump up and grab the bottom lip with both hands. Heel hook with the right foot. Go from there.

FA: Anton Kruger, 26 Jan 2015

Start as for TN. Throw your left toe into the scoops exit then top out onto the ledge. If you're bouldering by yourself ensure you place your crash pad so it's between the crux and THND. It's an awkward drop to the ground and there may not be random kids running by to pull it across for you.

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

Start just right of The Neilson, stay on the face and top out between the two holes.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 May 2016

Facing the back of the main boulder, start on the far left corner of the slab. Top out at the buldge. Dangerous chos up top which needs more traffic to clean up. Either top out and exit beach side or slowly down climb (a good spotter is recommended).

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

At the back of the sandstone pillar, start at the quarried incuts. Make your way up and tend right. Finish by tapping out on top with a view of the beach. Some hollow knocks on this problem, use caution when committing to the mid way holds.

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 26 Apr
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