Showing all 47 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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The Candlestick | ||||||||
20 |
FA
★ CNG Direct Candlestick
![]() | 110m | ★ Good | Mon 12th Mar 2001 | ||||
Very tireing long day
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17 ~18 |
★★ The Wick
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Dec 2023 | ||||
Exhilarating all the way to the final heave up over the choss. Started a bit too late - would recommend getting up at about 4am (or even earlier if you are as slow as us) but vibes were high. Rap went down without a hitch, and three brave souls nailed the swim and Tyrolean. Don't keep them on belay for the swim, as you risk the chance of short-roping them (sorry Alex) - just hold onto the rope. First pitch involved some incredible sustained stemming and bridging - must have been on my 40m pitch without a ledge rest for about 2 hours. The #6 cam saved me from running out of gear, and I bumped this up for about 10m as I placed some marginal gear. Found a small grassy outcrop and belayed from here, wedged into a crack. There were some dark times on that ledge for the over 2hr belay as Alex Holroyd made a momentous effort on the second 60m pitch, running it out as much as possible. I found the crack to be a second home, as the wind got colder and colder. Finally, the call came down on the walkie-talkie, and I could start moving up. That second pitch was the most intense physical experience of my life, carrying up a backpack and an extra 20kg of weight from the Tyrolean rope that was flying recklessly in the wind back to the mainland. I think I started mildly hallucinating with the effort at one point, as I thrutched up the giant pitch. Had to rest twice while I flicked the stuck Tyrolean rope, but I am proud no falls occured during the actual climbing. Upon reaching the top around 10pm I found Alex Holroyd body-belaying me, backed up on a tree. I had to haul the Tyrolean rope with all my might to unstick it from the crack systems below. We rapped down and joined the other gang, who were just as exhausted as us. Following a flawless Tyrolean, interesting sardine sandwhich and 2hr hike, we made it back to camp. What a fucking journey.
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]() | 110m | ★ Good | Fri 29th Dec 2006 | ||||
Richie swam over. I led everything. Got benighted. Awesome exposure.
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]() | 110m | Mon 13th Jan 2014 | |||||
Great day out with Lars. Figuring out how to get back to the mainland without splatting was probably the technical crux...
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | ||||
A very excellent adventure in a wild and amazing place. I did the crux swim and set up a tyrolean for Laura and Brendan. The climbing was mostly pretty good. First three pitches are a bit grovelly in chimneys, but gear was mostly good. Last pitch is great on good clean rock. The tyrolean back to the mainland was awesome! Had a few stuck rope shenanigans which resulted in a late finish, but the walk out in the moonlight was beautiful. You've out outdone yourself again Tasmania.
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | ||||
Wicked day out with plenty of adventure, rope issues, loose rocks, epic views, scary exit.
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]()
1
lead by
Phil
2
lead by
Rach
3
lead by
Me
4
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Jan 2018 | ||||
Amazing and eventful day out. Swim went smoothly with fairly friendly seas. First pitch was ok climbing. First half of second pitch was nice, then lots of loose dirt and rock and some awkward chimneying to finish up to the ledge. Third pitch was very nice climbing in the crack to the right of the chimney. Climbed up onto the big chockstone at the top of the chimney, then headed rightish up under then past a little rooflet to the belay ledge. This section was probably around gr17/18 the way I did it (or I was just wrecked). Had to bail from here back to the start of the pitch when our third person got caught in a rockfall near the start of this pitch. A series of rocks at the base of this section of the chimney (to the right of the belay ledge) spewed out and down the rest of the route and into the water. Her foot was injured, so we bailed and made the escape tyrolean at this point from the double bolts on the big ledge at the top of the second pitch. Hard work since it is slightly lower than the bolts on the mainland at this point, and we hauled the injured climber to assist getting across. Highly recommend a rope protector if doing this traverse as the rope rubs badly on the Candle Stick side. Our protector was well munched!
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Feb 2018 | ||||
A day to be remembered. Thanks Dan for doing the swim!
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 20th Dec 2018 | ||||
Great fun, a bit chossy. Took a solid couple hours but not too hard or sandbagged
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]() | 110m | Sun 30th Dec 2018 | |||||
Pretty rad climb, very chossy before the ledge. Took a lot longer than we expected
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]() | 110m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Mar 2019 | ||||
Helmets not optional... So many loose rocks!!
Great day otherwise though, took it real easy, perhaps too easy and topped out and traversed off in the dark.
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | ||||
Lead on 2 and 4
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
![]() | 110m | ★ Good | Wed 30th Dec 2020 | ||||
Did the third pitch again as a recovery of stuck tryloean rope. After climbing the NW corner earlier in the day this route is shite in comparison. Not only is it only marginally easier, all the gear is remarkably worse.
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16 |
★★★ Normal Route
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1
16
30m
2
30m
3
30m
4
20m
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 9th Jan 2022 | ||||
Just as good the second time. Dans turn to swim. Linked pitch 1 and 2
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19 18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 5th Jan 2009 | ||||
With Nic. I think this is the route we did. Two pitches of corners, a wide crack and then a ridge and then a final crack to the summit. 4 pitches. Nics did the swim, I lead the first and third pitches. Classic position. Good job on the bolts for the tyroleans.
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19 18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | ||||
I think we did some variation on this route. We started up the corner, but went right instead of left. There were some nuts stuck in the crack so we knew it had been done before, but had no idea where the route was meant to go. We sort of blazed our own path to the summit, going wherever looked fun. Great day out! Must say I disagree with the guide book though - it's a great place to figure out what a tyrolean traverse is, and how to set one up =P
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19 18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | ||||
Climbed a variation of this route with Andrea M, jolly good day out! Water was a baltic and only lost a few digits to sharks
Just do it! |
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19 18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | Sat 16th Nov 2013 | |||||
Date approximate, did first two pitches and bailed onto tyrol line With Cam + Mark
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 30th Dec 2015 | ||||
Will never forget this one!! a steep learning curve, hard to envisage a better one day adventure than this
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Jan 2016 | ||||
With Scotty Wearin and Hugh. Classic for the full adventure experience, though the climbing still rates very good. The most complex ropecraft ive done on a climb. Onsight the scary swim to the platform, hard with big waves; P1 - Clean 2nd (Great steep crack and bridging); P2 - Clean 2nd (Pleasant corner crack); P3 - Onsight (I refused to climb the loose offwidth and made up a pitch up a thin crack to the right); P4 - Clean 2nd (A corner doddle. We did a variant start up steep handcrack).
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]()
1
lead by
Chad
2
lead by
Fraser
3
lead by
Aaron
4
lead by
Chad
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 19th Jan 2016 | ||||
Awesome day out in a spectacular location. We meant to do the 16 but accidentally did this instead. Fraser lead the swim! Plenty of lose rock around on most pitches. We did the upper Tyrolean back which took some thinking to get everyone back safe but it was fine! Amazing adventure climbing!
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 24th Jan 2016 | ||||
A truly epic day out, 14 hours from car to car. We abbed in, Ben did the swim In fairly lumpy seas. I lead the 5 pitches and we did the high up tyrollean back to the mainland. One of the most involved climbs I've ever done, using a ton of rope techniques I'd almost forgotten about. An amazing day out, one to remember for a very long time.
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
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1
18
lead by
Heather
2
17
lead by
Paul
3
15
lead by
Markus
4
15
lead by
Chiko
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th Jan 2017 | ||||
Awesome!
Pitch 1 (lead)- very enjoyable. One of the flakes is loose. Pitch 2- loose rock (some large stuff) up top. Pitch 3- we used a different route around the corner (may have been a little trickier than 15, but seemed better protected, potentially, than the offwidth offering that is standard). Pitch 4- Good times to the top. The tyrolean and resultant exposure makes this an absolutely epic day out. |
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
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1
18
lead by
Heather
2
17
lead by
Paul
3
15
lead by
Markus
4
15
lead by
Chiko
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Jan 2017 | ||||
What an adventure!
I chose a different route for the third pitch. Up the face around the left instead of the off-width, due to better protection on the face. Wasn't easier to climb though, probably a tricky 15.
Watch out for the lose rock all the way up!
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | ||||
Rad adventurous climb. Take care pulling on things top of pitch 2
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
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1
18
30m
2
17
30m
3
15
25m
4
15
20m
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th Jan 2020 | ||||
We got a bit lost on P3, should've gone ~5m higher directly above the wide crack but otherwise everything went smoothly. Luckily the channel was so chockers with sharks that the swell was basically eliminated and made for a cruisy swim. Barking seals and strong winds, what a crazy place! Rock was great for the most part and was some lovely climbing. P3 was tricky to protect, maybe a #5 might fit in the wide crack or squeeze right through the crack at about 1/3 height for easier ground on the other side but would be dicky with the rope. Car to car was 11 hours + about 658 hours trying to puzzle out the tyroleans.
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 30th Dec 2020 | ||||
Good fun, good gear and reasonably good rock. Took about an hour a pitch and then another 3hrs when the tyrollen rope pulled a huge block off onto itself and squashed the end, trapping it on the candlestick. Make sure you keep the tails short, 20m tails can really Fuck up your day.
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jan 2021 | ||||
Climbing with double ropes in a party of four (with Sarah, Ben and Rhys) - So everyone of us got to lead one pitch. What an awesome day out
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Jan 2021 | ||||
The best day out climbing I have ever had. The line itself is fantastic to climb (despite a small amount of loose rock), but when combined with the location, excellent company, and required rope techniques, it made an unforgettable day. Done as a party of four with 3 ropes. Abseiled in on a 70m line (anything less would be struggling to reach considering this line needs to be trailed throughout the route to rig the upper tyrolean). Swam across in low swell with some seals and rigged the lower tyrolean 3m above the sea...fantastic! The first pitch is the crux, and was long and sustained and somewhat moist. Excellent jams despite appearances. Second pitch is the most enjoyable to climb with excellent rock (except at the top). Third pitch an alpine style climb and wander over the ridge. Make sure the tyrolean line doesn't get caught here. Final summit pitch very enjoyable.
We rigged the upper tyrolean from the bolts at the end of pitch 3 before the final summit pitch. Tyrolean was at a 30 degree angle downwards to the mainland. Because of this, it is essential to get lowered or rap on a second line until you are able to pull yourself across. Two ropes are needed for the upper tyrolean (a single 70m could probably be tensioned tight enough to bridge the gap, however it would be super tight, increasing the angle and forces on the anchors). After lowering the others across with the end of the rope, they set up the tyrolean on the mainland and tensioned it, and I rappelled down a separate line until I ran out of rappel rope, before pulling and retrieving it. Coiling the rap rope whilst suspended on the tyrolean in the middle of space was incredible. If you have the rope skills to do this climb, get on it, truly is an amazing adventure! |
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | ||||
This climb delivered.
Travelled from Brisbane for the weekend to get on this. Much preparation and rehearsal paid off, as the ropework and Tyroleans gave us no difficulty whatsoever. One guide indicates that the crux pitch is the swim. I will vehemently disagree with that. P1 was nails at 18. Committing, insecure and strenuous, it was dripping wet at the bottom. Good gear the whole way up if you can place it. Heady stepping around the roof. The swim was disappointingly uneventful. Waited for a set to finish, jumped in on the back of a wave and gunned it. Grabbed the kelp before the next wave came in, then just delicately up the wet rock to the anchor. Didn't get scared enough the first time around so jumped back in. P2 was beautiful, gorgeous jams. P3 had me cursing the inbred Tasmanian guidebook authors who couldn't tell the difference between a grade 16 squeeze chimney and a grade 19+ offwidth. That was darned scary, shuffling my 6 up the whole way with no other gear anywhere it would keep me off the deck. Spent the whole time gazing longingly through the offwidth at the lovely corner on the other side. When Angie followed she simply popped through the very bottom of the squeeze where it's wider and climbed the opposite side, at which point I realised my vitriol was misplaced. P4 had a few engaging moments and was good fun. Used the upper (P3) anchors for the return Tyrolean as we had thoroughly rehearsed this, and rapping further down just to jug back uphill seemed like entirely too much hard work. Deserves all its stars. |
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | |||||
What David said
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Nov 2019 | ||||
Despite my many laps in the pool to train for this route we ended up having an 18 hour epic. Probably the coolest route i've ever climbed and an excellent birthday send
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 19th Jan 2021 | ||||
Lead the 4th pitch to bring it home. Very enjoyable outing. Nude ocean swim and tyrolean swings were epic
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 6th Dec 2021 | ||||
Day 2 of the Tassie summer off to a flying start. This route is a stunning adventure with better than expected climbing. Snapped a crimp on p1 and took a wet rope whipper. Got nudie at top of p2 after the worst sammie in the world (open packet, car kept ingredients) to change out of the wetsuit. The kayak tourists got more views than they expected. Yim saw a wild strawberry on the route: Buy him a beer for the full hysterical tale. P3 saw a traverse between 3 different lines resulting in a barefoot downclimb building 3 subsequent tranchors and a walkie-talkieless comms breakdown. Finally summitted and waved to the 0 tourists at the lookout before tyroleaning off p3. A great day out with Yim the strawberry picker.
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Feb 2022 | ||||
How good is faff !!! Loved this.
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Feb 2022 | ||||
Awesome day out
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 23rd Feb 2022 | ||||
Still one of the best days out a climber can possibly have.
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 5th Mar 2022 | ||||
Can a day out climbing get any better than this. So involved. So much fun. I wish more climbs required nudity.
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 5th Apr 2022 | ||||
What an amazing climb!
Water was less cold than anticipated for Autumn, and the swell wasn't too bad...
While getting back to the main land we had some problems with the Tyrolean... 70 m may not be enough to double up the rope from 3rd pitch down... We ended up having to join a 70m and 60m rope to make it all the way down
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18 Hard |
★★★ Corner Route
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1
18
30m
2
17
30m
3
15
25m
4
15
20m
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 29th Jan 2023 | ||||
What a hectic adventure. Dean did the swim, set up a lower tyrolean to get the gear across and then I zipped over without getting wet. This was not hugely beneficial as it started faintly spitting and did so untill after the first (crux) pitch. The first two pitches eat gear though, I had a double rack of cams and a set of dmm torque hexes (which were definitely helpful), only used a few medium to large wires.
Was lucky enough to lead all the pitches.
At the third we followed the topo from the latest Tassie selected climbs: traversing out from the belay ledge under the arête then up the crack. The benefit of this is that you reduce chances of getting your tag line stuck. If I had my time again I would stick to the crack from the belay straight up untill you can squeeze through to the right. Summited, waved to the tourists at the lookout and tour boat and came back down to the higher tyrolean. The hangers here are currently VERY crowded with old rusted shite. We used the two twisted rapides backed up while the first person was lowered across. Got the tension absolutely perfect. Maybe a couple of arm spans less than as tight as you can get? Dean used the third rope to lower down. Pulled and flaked the rope mid line without issue. When releasing the tyrolean the rope got momentarily stuck in the boulders just below the bolts, but it released thank god. 10/10. May you climb with good fortune adventurer. |
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | Mon 5th Jan 1998 | |||||
This climb was intended to be the original normal route further around the scramble and past the tote. Along the way the directions got muddied, and when Brad and I saw this wonderful corner feature, we figured it would be an easy climb. How wrong we were. Back in 1998 there were no signs of previous activity, no bolts, no nuts, no tat, and we were feeling anxious. We abseiled off into the unknown off natural anchors, wearing a life jacket of all things, wondering what rock features might help us down at sea level. We got lucky in that there was a sloping stance about 4m off the water with a crack suitable for a BD hex.
I set anchors and Brad followed. We left the hex in the crack so that Brad could tyrolean across and stay dry. I often wonder about my hex. Did it last days or months in the salt spray before disintegrating?
The swim across was a bit freaky while on belay, and getting onto the slope was a struggle due to the 3 m swell. The key was to grab the seaweed stalks which were as big as your arm while at the top of the wave, and then climb on the stalks above as the water receded and get clear of the swell.
The climb itself was thought provoking and awesome, apart from halfway through the second pitch, when I pulled a loose block which was teetering and moved. I used anchored quickdraws to ensure the rope was clear, even in the event of a fall further up. When Brad seconded and was clear, of the block, he helped it fall. It hit the belay ledge smack bang and shattered into what seemed like hundreds of bombs which set the sea alight. I figure it was about 30 kg, which would have taken out the belayer if it had fallen accidently.
This took us all day as we were very slow. A kind hiker that we had spoken to at about 2pm across the chasm in the afternoon had unknowingly alerted the SES about our location and when we were not back by dark they started the callout to get a rescue party activated. Yes, we got back close to midnight, but at least we made it before they set off to save us.
Yes, this was a mega.
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
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18
30
2
17
30
3
15
25
4
15
20
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th Dec 2023 | ||||
11/10 day out. Did the nudie swim with an eye on the bellowing territorial seals. Hyper real experience floating over to the edge of the continent. I'd love to try pitches 1-2 again without a heavy pack, might have to come back! As epic as I hoped.
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th Dec 2023 | ||||
Epic day out. Thanks John for doing the nudie swim. P1 really enjoyed this pitch, a few technical moves and good gear. P2 beautiful jams and stemming. P3 fun squeeze through chimney to easy climbing on other side. P4 cruisy last pitch. Definitely have to be super mindful of choss. Fantastic final climb of the trip.
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18 ~19 |
★★★ Corner Route
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4
15
20m
Ran out of time to complete this | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 16th Dec 2023 | ||||
Unreal experience unlike anything else. Nearly got taken out by the swim, beware the rope getting caught on the seaweed stalks if swimming as a second. The climbing was strenuous, with every type of jam being put to use. Coupled with carrying heavy equipment up with you, ascending this thing amounts to a real physical and mental challenge. Props to Rak and John for leading the pitches. As you progress up the quality of the rock deteriorates, and the movement becomes weird, with an awkward chimney squeeze and a platforming traverse out of a videogame. We unfortunately didn't have enough light to complete the 4th pitch, and opted to wait for our friends who were completing The Wick. The return via Tyrolean was surreal, lit only by moonlight and headtorches. We returned to camp at 3am
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 4th Jan 2024 | ||||
Brilliant!! The most epic day ever! I got to do the nudie swim (yay!), which was so cool and scary with the swell. thought i would get swept away! the kelp mantle may have been the biggest struggle of my life. Aaron said i looked like an albino seal. totally unreal place, it feels so out there the whole time. position was wild, and it was so beautiful. the climbing was also surprisingly classy, with some really awesome moves. P1 was tricky and sustained with funky jamming. P2 had nice jams. for P3 we went up the crack L instead of the offwidth. P4 was sick with nice exposure. Reaching the summit was the coolest feeling ever, and the view was amazing. the high tyrolean was insane and so fun! so stoked!!! ~15hr car to car.
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18 |
★★★ Corner Route
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Jan 2024 | ||||
3 parties of 2. A 20 hour day. 1 absolutely hectic adventure.
Our original plan was for 1 party to climb Corner Route and 2 parties to do The Wick. Unfortunately, in the time it took Arjan to swim across with the rope, a combination of falling tides and sudden swell meant we decided it was too sketchy to attempt the swim to The Wick. Everyone still got to strip nude to keep the gear and clothes dry from the raging waves though The climbing itself is incredible. P1 starting in the seaswept corner. Every hold wet from the spray but magically grippy still. I had to unleash almost every tool in my crack arsenal as the climbing offered up the opportunity to use every type of jam and squeeze. At this point it was close to 2PM and I had not had time to assemble my sandwich, which younger, naive me thought I could eat at the top of the Candlestick as some sort of victory feast. Each pitch was now fuelled by a small ration of museli bar. It's amazing how much energy you burn when you combine 110m of climbing with a few hours shivering in the cold, slightly scared at the bottom of a cliff in the sea. P2 had some sweet jamming. Got some fantastic flow in the hand jams. Plus a few techy bits to keep you on your toes. P3 was interesting because after comparing notes, it turned out we'd all climbed it differently! I manoeuveured to the start of the off-width before managing to span the two cracks, using every millimetre of my +1/2 hand ape index. Others did the squeeze chimney, which necessitated removing helmets and gear. P4 was a glorious victory lap in the soft evening light. Easy, but fun, climbing. And I have never exited a climb in more aesthetic fashion than a 45 degree descending Tyrolean. Made it out before it got completely dark. Party 3 in the team were not quite so lucky. 5am to 1am camp-to-camp. And I got to eat my lunch sandwich at 8PM |
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19 |
★★★ Corner Route
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18
30
2
17
30
3
19
25
4
16
20
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | ||||
Climbed this route after doing the totem pole, was a very fun climb with lots of variations on climbing it the swell was very manageable. I don't know what people are on about it being chossy I thought it was great sure there were a few loose blocks here and there but it did not affect the climbing. took 6 hours from the Mainland
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Showing all 47 ascents.