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Ascents in Frenchmans Cap

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 148 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Climber Date
23 De Gaulle's Nose (The De Gaulle's Nose Route) Trad 300m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Gareth Llewellin
Sat 1st Mar 2008
awesome, with some gnarly bits. 5 degrees most of the day!

 
20 The Lorax - with Kim Walls Trad 390m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
David Tan
Mon 31st Dec 2018
Lead every pitch in a 12 hour hut to hut mission. The crack and traverse pitchs are incredible. Every other pitch was loose, mossy, and poorly protected....

 
20 The Lorax Trad 390m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Tiburonny
Mon 23rd Dec 2019
80% headspace, 20% climbing, min distance between protections feels like 10m

 
20 The Lorax - with steve postle Trad 390m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Kris Penn
Sat 22nd Feb 2020
Wild wild wild, an astonishing effort by Peter and Garn.

Lead onsight alternating with Steve, the access pitch is horrendous and would highly recommend roping up for it, first few pitches are loose and spacey gear common to be 10m+ between pieces, money pitch is stonker gear, brining the belay 4m under the cave is highly recommended good belay and straight line to next belay, the ledge traverse is insanity, on the traverse pitch for belay definitely step around the arete to big ledge good gear in corner.

We were pretty casual about it and naive in hindsight started at 9am 12 hours on the wall 14 1/2hrs hut to hut topped out in the dark.

An emotional roller coaster, extraordinary position, classic line..... wow!

 
19 The Ninth of January Trad 160m Frenchmans Cap Area
Alex Mougenot
Sat 19th Dec 2015
Was going to get on The Lorax, but hearing the story of a climbing team who retreated off it the day before put us off. Maybe next year. Did this instead to smash out a shorter one, but ended up taking us longer cos of uncertain routefinding and us being unaware of the scramble-death topout! Pitch 2 was the standout. Bring double ropes! Would've been hell with a single.

 
19 The Ninth of January - with Mark Feeney
1 19 160m lead by Alec Landstra
2 lead by Mark Feeney
3 lead by Alec Landstra
4 lead by Mark Feeney
5 lead by Alec Landstra
Trad 160m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Alec Landstra
Sat 9th Jan 2021
Very fun climbing on mostly good rock! Pitches 2 and 3 were excellent! Ended up climbing 3 more pitches on the headwall behind for an exciting finish. Not sure if these were part of an existing route as they were very dirty and Chossy. Best of all, we did it on the 9th of January!!!

 
19 Hard The Ninth of January - with Tom Scott Trad 160m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Harley Mills
Thu 5th Jan 2023
Good climbing, very questionable rock at times particularly on pitch 1. The crux is unprotectable and run out, and is some of the scariest trad I've done... proceed with caution. Pitches 3 and 4 were cruisy and nice despite pulling some holds off! The tat for the rap off the top is old and questionable, probably worth replacing.

 
19 The Ninth of January - with Harley Mills Trad 160m Frenchmans Cap Area
Tom Scott
Fri 6th Jan 2023
Oh boy. Glad we did this route before attempting lorax. Really put the seriousness of the wall into perspective.

Massive runouts, some questionable rock and gear. Glad Harley was leading the crux pitch. Super route, the traverson on P2 was crazy

 
19 The Ninth of January Trad 160m Frenchmans Cap Area
James Hockey
Sun 26th Feb 2023
Squeezing this in the day after Sydney probably added another year onto when I’d return, Three stars.

 
18 Brisbane Line - with Phil Dolan Trad 300m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Dayle Gilliatt
Tue 14th Feb 1989
Bad route-finding led to a trouser-filling adventure.

 
18 Cold-Steel Dawn - with Kim Walls Trad 97m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
David Tan
Sat 29th Dec 2018
Lovely route with the right amount of spice. Pitch 1 is the good shit

 
18 Cold-Steel Dawn Trad 97m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Tiburonny
Fri 27th Dec 2019
Fantastic climbing

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Dan Handley
Sun 8th Feb 2004
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Jeremy Goble
2006
climbed in 5 pitches. Outstanding!

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
topher
Fri 30th Dec 2011
With Jed. Heady traverse!

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom - with Geoffrey Hernandez Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Jean-Philippe Dumas
Fri 2nd Jan 2015
New years eve trip with the Rasta Rockets!

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area
Alex Mougenot
Thu 17th Dec 2015
(Sorry Gene. Couldn't be bothered with descriptions on my phone!) Brilliant. Just brilliant. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, not even most people, but I highly recommend it for those with a head for adventure, spaced gear, and exposure! What a route, though. I discovered that a small part of me enjoys the delicacy required when climbing on choss (like the first and last couple pitches.

 
19 17 Tierry le Fronde Direct Variant - with Anthony Shilton, Mikey Musch Trad 25m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Andrew Connolly
Sun 24th Feb 2019
Very clean rock, very solid rock in great positions and some good movement. Given 19 on TheSarvo (and then confusingly listed as 16), this route is definitely 19 ! Aim for the 5m super clean wall with a splitter finger crack. We also started by pulling the rooflet at ground level right near the very bottom of the buttress. Was lulled into a false sense of rock-security here because everything was so solid

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Tiburonny
Tue 24th Dec 2019
Absolute classic with beautiful pitches but definitely not for the faint hearted. Take lots of # 1s and peanuts plus the usual gear (micros, nuts, cams) double set doesn't hurt

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom - with Cameron Hickling Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Matthew Robbins
Fri 27th Dec 2019
11.5 hour hut to hut.

We soloed pitches 1+2 (it's basically a vertical garden) and then mossied our way up the remainder. That crack on pitches 4+5 is stonker and the traverse pitch is wild wild wild!

Found that the scariest part of the day was scrambling up that effing col. Loose and steep scree plus big falls is mildy scary to say the least

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom - with Ryan Siacci Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Dylan Tubaro
Thu 14th Jan 2021
One of the reasons I started climbing , two years ago i bivouacked at the summit and met crazy John & clair who topped out on the great flake on dark. That Definitely had a deep impact on my climbing journey. So happy to have done this route, can't wait to come back out and tackle some of the bigger harder lines!

 
17 Tierry le Fronde Direct Variant Trad 25m Frenchmans Cap Area
Michael Lehmann
Thu 14th Jan 2021
Did a huge run out going direct up the arete, rock was dirty but the movement was great with lots of exposure!

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom - with Tim Winterflood Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Hunter Cole
Thu 21st Jan 2021
What an unreal experience! We got spectacular weather, however, quite a bit of seepage in sections. Good gear for most of the way (recommended rack as mentioned by others), yet, enough no fall zones you certainly want to be confident at the grade, especially for that goddam traverse! For sure the most exciting Trad adventure I've had so far!

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area
William Skea
Wed 16th Feb 2022
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Rob Watson
Wed 16th Feb 2022
Incredible, this route has been on the life list for a very long time. A striking corner crack followed by an unprotected and butt puckering exposed traverse across the void to another corner system. Definitely the most serious but rewarding pieces of climbing I've had the pleasure of doing!. Wild

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom - with Josh Ring Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Poppy
Sat 17th Feb 2024
A route that has lead me to reflect on my climbing deeply.

The seriousness of this route had my full attention as we were climbing, so much so that I wasn't able to experience much else. Not excitement, joy, fear or otherwise. I was focused on being as safe as possible and succeeding. Both those goals were achieved, but a certain emptiness remains. Much more self reflection to come; on climbing and - as usual - how that relates to life.

The morning walk to the start of the route was serendipitous, as sunrise silently rose over a sea of mountain peak islands bathed in the rising alpine fog.

3 day mish. 27km first day. Route the second. 27km out third. Would recommend taking more time to enjoy your time here. It's a lovely place.

 
17 16 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
benjamin james eichler
Fri 11th Jan 2008
amazing and so long. lose rock everywhere and variable weather adds to the flavour. this cliff is huge.....

 
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Jeremy Goble
2006
Climbed predominantly in the rain

 
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area
Simon Dale
Tue 13th Apr 2010
17 16 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area
Simon Dale
Tue 13th Apr 2010
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Rod Smith
Wed 25th Jan 2006
Led every pitch. Serious alpine-style route. Two-day walk in with 32kg pack. Rewarded with fine weather.

 
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
topher
Wed 28th Dec 2011
With Jed

 
17 16 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
topher
Sat 31st Dec 2011
With Jed. Didn't find the chockstone at the end of the first pitch, but good gear at about 40m for a belay. If we were doing the correct 'obvious' line...Good finish

 
16 Tierry le Fronde - with Rich Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
David
Tue 20th Jan 2015
Alt leads. Started at the wrong spot. strung 2 & 3 together. found the old piton on pitch 3 (looked like a cadbury flake) and a stuck nut in the crack system to the right of the line proper (poss fall? nasty roof move) Real alpine flavour, 32kg packs, 4 days walking, 2 days of snow, 1 day of climbing weather. Worth every moment!!

 
16 Tierry le Fronde Alternative Start - with Phil Dolan Trad 65m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Dayle Gilliatt
Wed 15th Feb 1989
Quite good. When combined with TLF it's a full-on adventure. Originally graded 19.

 
16 Tierry le Fronde - with Geoffrey Hernandez Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Jean-Philippe Dumas
Thu 1st Jan 2015
New Years with the Rasta Rockets! Epic start at 4:30pm to finish overhanging pitch at night to get back at the hut by midnight, and off to Chimes of freedom in the morning

 
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Tomas Dorrington
Tue 6th Mar 2018
Last pitch discription is a little vague. Should be ‘Up for 5m, then climb the V shaped chimney to horizontal brake follow brake around to the right to an easy escape through the roofs”

 
16 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Richard Pattison
Thu 24th Dec 2015
Great adventure, rock loose in places, protection far better with modern gear than the 1960s beta indicates. The devils traverse & belay was scary / memorable / unnerving / fantastic :o)

 
16 Tierry le Fronde - with Kim Walls Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
David Tan
Thu 27th Dec 2018
16 Waterloo Road Direct Trad 300m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Tiburonny
Thu 26th Dec 2019
Nice alternate finish to NoJ instead of the scramble up the gully. Only top pitches

 
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Tiburonny
Wed 25th Dec 2019
16 Tierry le Fronde Direct Start Trad 45m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Tiburonny
Wed 25th Dec 2019
16 The Sydney Route - with Cameron Hickling Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area
Matthew Robbins
Sat 28th Dec 2019
Done in 11 pitches (instead of 13 listed in guide).

An incredible achievement for its day and a historic line. I can only imagine the grit that Bryden Allen and Jack Pettigrew had to pull off this line almost 55 years ago.

The climb itself, while enjoyable, suffers from oodles and oodles of loose rock, moss and tricky route-finding. Finding the start was challenging (I'm still not sure we started in the right spot) and route-finding was tricky all the way up to the start of the traverse. Cam and I would regularly stop on lead and double check the route length and description to make sure we were in the right spot.

All in all, it took Cam and I 14 hours hut to hut.

 
16 Tierry le Fronde - with Cameron Hickling Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Matthew Robbins
Sun 29th Dec 2019
Rounding out the Frenchmans Cap hat-trick!

What was meant to be an "easy" day out but turned into 8.5 hours hut to hut. Not a huge day but considerably more than expected.

Compared to The Sydney Route and The Chimes of Freedom, Tierry Le Fronde was the easiest line to find and follow. It also had the most outrageous exposure of the 3 routes. We are talking tiny belay ledges hanging on prows 200+ meters off the deck and chimneys with nothing but the sucking void beneath you. Radical stuff!!!

For future climbers, pitch lengths from The Sarvo and the guidebook are likely incorrect (in our humble opinion). We found that the pitches are probably more like:

  • P1 - 45m
  • P2 - 35m
  • P3 - 40m
  • P4 - 30m
  • P5 - 40m
 
16 Tierry le Fronde - with Yants Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Matty Lawler
Sun 30th Dec 2018
Amazing line, looking forward to climbing some more out at Frenchman’s

 
16 The Sydney Route - with Chris Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area
Andrew Serack
Thu 12th Mar 2020
The second closest I came to dying in Australia. Helluva day out.

 
16 Tierry le Fronde - with Chris Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area
Andrew Serack
Wed 11th Mar 2020
Nice and consistent

 
17 The Sydney Route - with Mark Feeney
1 17 36m lead by Mark Feeney
2 36m lead by Alec Landstra
3 18m lead by Mark Feeney
4 36m lead by Alec Landstra
5 24m lead by Mark Feeney
6 30m lead by Alec Landstra
7 30m lead by Mark Feeney
8 30m lead by Alec Landstra
9 16 21m lead by Mark Feeney
10 33m lead by Alec Landstra
11 30m lead by Mark Feeney
12 30m lead by Alec Landstra
13 30m lead by Mark Feeney
Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Alec Landstra
Fri 8th Jan 2021
A fantastic outing! Pitches 6 onwards are fantastic! Couldn’t have asked for better weather

 
16 Tierry le Fronde - with Ryan Siacci Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Dylan Tubaro
Thu 14th Jan 2021
How's the fucking view on it. Outrageous at the grade for sure

 
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area
Michael Lehmann
Thu 14th Jan 2021
First 3 ish pitches? We linked a few so was hard to tell. Enjoyable climbing with spicey protection.

 
16 Tierry le Fronde - with Pauly G, Eugene Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Nut Busting Unicorn
Sat 13th Feb 2021
Epic & exposed what a climb 🤩

 
16 Tierry le Fronde - with Zi Hui Lie, Brandon Trad 160m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Anton Korsun
Mon 15th Feb 2021
A fun day with quality climbing until the last "roof" pitch which is unfourtunately quite loose and showered us with 3 painful blocks.

Luckily no serious trauma or core shots, but we took the time to patch up and climbed slower for the remaining 1.5 pitches.

Upon descent we agreed that aspining ascentionists would appreciate some sympathetic beta for the rooves. If you, my friend, believe that the meaning of life is found under a driving range of death blocks piled higher than the Great Pyramid, read no more...

But for the mortals, go 5-6m up juggy crack from grassy corner belay. Then easily traverse right across the gearless wall to good rest under two black gullies. Do not take the left gully. Instead head up the right gully/chimney to good ledge. From there a short (10m?) escape pitch remains.

(Total length thus feels 160m or 220m with the solo approach gully)

Despite the delay, climbing at night in the heavy mist that descends upon the Cap at dusk was a truly surreal experience and reminded me of why we do this to ourselves. Enjoy!

 
16 Tierry le Fronde Direct Start Trad 45m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Vanessa Wills
Sat 20th Feb 2021
Better than the gully.

 
17 16 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Kieran Norwood
Sat 22nd Jan 2022
16 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Rob Watson
Wed 16th Feb 2022
An epic alpine adventure complete with huge exposure, plenty of loose rock and less than desirable belays. Fantastic!

 
16 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area
William Skea
Mon 21st Feb 2022
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area
William Skea
Mon 21st Feb 2022
16 ~18 The Sydney Route - with Tom Scott Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Harley Mills
Sat 7th Jan 2023
Wow what a day. Was off route pretty considerably for the first 4 pitches, but then pretty sweet once on route. The pitches leading up to the crux were awesome and full value. Lots of moss, dirt, plants, loose rock/boulders and the like. Crux pitch is for sure harder than 16. An inverted staircase, 300m off the deck, that has some decent protection and rest stances, but is definitely harder than 16... All in all, an awesome, full value day!

 
16 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
James Hockey
Sun 26th Feb 2023
Such a rich experience to climb at Frenchman’s, not all positive, not all negative but all memorable. Managed to catch a beautiful 5 day weather window and all our routes were bone dry. I got the pointy end of the rope on the Devils staircase which Is more than a bit stiff at 16. Also finding the start was a whole ordeal and I assume I was somewhere near the original. I went up the main gully, sus traverse on vegetation to a grassy ledge then up a “botanically influenced” crack for a full rope length until I spied the chimney on P3. Second tick off the lifelist in a week.

 
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area
James Hockey
Sun 26th Feb 2023
16 ~17 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
BoPangYang
Wed 15th Jun 2022
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
BoPangYang
Wed 15th Jun 2022
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
James Collins
Fri 17th Feb 2023
16 Tierry le Fronde - with Lee Prescott Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Dylan Glavas
Mon 12th Feb 2024
So so nice, good crack moves, walked back to vera hut after this day

 
14 The Sydney Route Direct Start Trad 62m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Stephen White
Mon 6th Jan 1997
started on a nice sunny day and finished in the clouds

 
14 The Sydney Route Direct Start Trad 62m Frenchmans Cap Area
Simon Dale
Tue 13th Apr 2010
14 The Sydney Route Direct Start Trad 62m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
michael batchelor
1999
14 Fleur-de-lis Trad 210m Frenchmans Cap Area
Simon Dale
Tue 13th Apr 2010
14 The Sydney Route Direct Start Trad 62m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
topher
Sat 31st Dec 2011
With Jed Awesome middle pitches! Even the 'climb the overhanging wall on bad rock' bit was great! Pitch 3 is just plain scary though. No gear until after pulling over the big slimy overhanging, bad rock, all while directly over a big, spiky block... Definitely a route with a bit of character

 
14 The Sydney Route Direct Start - with Mark Feeney
1 14 62m lead by Mark Feeney
2 lead by Alec Landstra
Trad 62m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Alec Landstra
Fri 8th Jan 2021
12 Surf Slab Trad 69m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Jeremy Goble
2006
12 Surf Slab
1 12 lead by Chris
2 12 lead by Paul
Trad 69m Frenchmans Cap Area
Chris Trengove
Tue 6th Dec 2005
12 ~16 Deceptive Gully - with Tom Veit Trad 120m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Jay
Wed 1st Jan 2020
10 Southern Parapet Trad 200m Frenchmans Cap Area Average
Richard Pattison
Fri 25th Dec 2015
Our plan was to climb Tierry le Fronde, but the forecast was an afternoon storm, so we elected for a minimal commitment route in case the storm came early. We chose this route because it involved a bit of bushwalking, interesting route finding descent to the base, and a different view of the mountain. Climbing wasn't great.

 
25 De Gaulles Direct Mixed trad 310m, 2 Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Gareth Llewellin
Sat 1st Mar 2008
Wow. Mind blowing. Unbelievable good climbing on even better rock.

 
22 TLF No Pants Variant - with Grace Bloom, Lachlan Short Trad 25m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Michael Lehmann
Thu 14th Jan 2021
Climbed directly from the Mike law variant. Annoyed I blew the onsight, kept slipping with wet feet and hands, took a couple of big whips onto the belay. The exposure at the crux is full value adventure trad!

 
20 The Lorax - with Dylan Glavas Trad 390m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Lee Prescott
Sat 10th Feb 2024
A serious undertaking! Spent 15 hrs on the wall total as a party of three, only the last pitch in the dark thankfully. Roped up first pitch 'scramble' was wet and sketchy, the crux pitch felt a bit harder than 20 and the traverse was my favourite part- the only actual 3 star part of the climb. Gets three for the location and length though. Was in my head about the last two sparsely protected pitches, but after getting to them the gear was better than anticipated with modern RP's and microcams. Still have to pull a few hard moves above minimal gear, but the challenge is route finding. An epic day out with two good friends, lots of traumatic bonding and appreciating life through the taste of death.

 
19 The Newcastle start to Sydney route Trad 80m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Vanessa Wills
Sat 20th Feb 2021
We couldn’t suss out the start the day before due to the amount of rocks being dropped by a party on the route, so just headed up early morning to see if the super direct approach worked. Any placements we had needed major excavation, so whilst it’s possible the line has been done it didn’t feel like it. Felt a bit R even for Frenchman’s standards, but was enjoyable in a type 2 fun way.

 
17 The Ninth of January Variant Trad 25m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Tiburonny
Thu 26th Dec 2019
Climbs very nice, don't scramble up the gully after, instead lead top pitches of Waterloo Road Direct

 
16 The Sydney Route - with Harley Mills Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area
Tom Scott
Fri 6th Jan 2023
What a day, completely off course at the start but just kept questing up and right until we rejoined.

Another serious climb, but an amazing one. Harley did an amazing job leading the crux (no way its 16). The whole experience was amazing

Probably no rain on the mount for 12 days before we went up (and temps hovering in the high 20s), but the top of the route was still pretty wet. Would really want to pick your windows for this. Pitch 8 was super run out and wet holds really added to the spice

 
20 The Lorax - with Anthony Shilton Trad 390m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Andrew Connolly
Thu 28th Feb 2019
Probably the most significant ascent of my climbing life to date. An astonishing route in a breathtaking location taking the middle of the highest vertical cliff in the country.

I have solo'ed heaps of stuff in my time, but I do not recommend solo'ing up to the start as per the guide. Too much vegetation, too much loose stuff and too wet. Instead, park yourself directly under the super-shiny slab near the top of the broken cliff and lead it normally up to there. It's 60m from the ground and places you in the right spot for the rest of the route.

From there, it's all climbing to the top. Pitch 1 was okay, 2 was a nice crack / corner ramp, 3 was a highlight (correctly graded at 20 and the gear is good, but you'll still want a very good head). Pitch 4 is the outrageous traverse which teases you when you have to leave the ledge - something I'll never forget. Pitch 5 is a good clean crack and pitch 6 starts with the hardest moves on the route through the rooflet. Pitch 7 was fun - we were running out of daylight so I speed-led it in ~10 minutes or so to top out on one of the great finishes ... you climb right to the very top of the cliff and belay with your feet hanging over 400m of air. Finished with the last light of the day and made it back to the hut in the dark.

Led pitches 0, 2, 4, half of 6, and 7. One of the great moments for me.

 
20 The Lorax Trad 390m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Dimsim
Fri 25th Feb 2022
What a day! What a route!

Lead free: 4, 5 and 7

 
20 The Lorax - with Lee Prescott, gerrard
1 Second
2 Trad
3 Second
4 Trad
5 Second
6 Second
7 Second
Trad 390m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Dylan Glavas
Sat 10th Feb 2024
Goddamn what a route, most exposed position I've ever been in and biggest and most beautiful wall I've seen, so fucking sick. Have so much appreciation for everything now. Was wigging at that exposure, was tired, cooked finger etc. it's just about getting to the top of the cliff. Lowered off crux and lee went up, ledge traverse was nuts exposed!! Sick route, 15.5 hours on the wall with party of 3 and a bit of fucking around. Full write up in tahune hut logbook

 
19 The Ninth of January Trad 160m Frenchmans Cap Area
James Hardy
Tue 13th Apr 2010
19 The Ninth of January Trad 160m Frenchmans Cap Area
holly
Tue 13th Apr 2010
19 The Ninth of January - with Mikey Musch, Anthony Shilton Trad 160m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Andrew Connolly
Fri 1st Mar 2019
Takes a great feature. Led pitches 1 & 3 (Mikey led P2 and Anthony P4). I did, however, manage to break a hold on P3, hit a ledge and break my foot - although I wouldn't discover this until I'd hiked out and returned to Melbourne ! Aside from the odd bit of fractured rock (and bone !) it's really atmospheric, leaving you hanging out over the valley below, while climbing on grade 8 jugs. Finished by simul-walking up the gully. Could probably find a better line on the main cliff behind the tower if we tried hard enough to finish it in style, but by this point we were ready to return home.

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area
James Hardy
Tue 13th Apr 2010
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area
@g-funk
Tue 13th Apr 2010
17 Electra Trad 100m Frenchmans Cap Area Very Good
Vanessa Wills
2011
Excellent first pitch. Amazing glassy quartzite

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Good
Vanessa Wills
Sun 2nd Jan 2011
In sleet and rain. Wet cracks. Numb hands. As mountaineering as you can get in OZ

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
hugh sutherland
Fri 15th Feb 2019
Getting to the start of the route is quite dangerous. There is a loose rock gully that you have to scramble up. Wear a helmet and dont be underneath your partner.

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom - with Anthony Shilton, Mikey Musch Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Andrew Connolly
Wed 27th Feb 2019
The second best route here. Pitches 4 & 5 linked together as a single pitch is surely the best on the mountain. Easy hand jamming with feet on smears to your right for 50m. We did that with only 1 x #1 and #2 camalot ... there are large wires everywhere although more cams would make it easier. The pitch 6 rising traverse is pretty unforgettable too - put in a little bit of gear at the start, then leave the crack and trust your climbing skillz ! Led pitches 3, 6 & 8

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom - with Matthew Robbins Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area
Cameron Hickling
Fri 27th Dec 2019
11.5 hours hut to hut

 
17 The Chimes of Freedom - with Zane Priebbenow Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Paul Priebbenow
Tue 10th Nov 1992
17 The Chimes of Freedom - with Zane Priebbenow Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Paul Priebbenow
Tue 10th Nov 1992
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m Frenchmans Cap Area Classic
Dimsim
Wed 23rd Feb 2022
Lead free:2, 4, 7 Spectacular but heaps of wet rock (first and second pitch, finish of pitch 5, the corner crack of p 6) Was raining the previous day

 
17 16 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
Mike Patterson
Wed 25th Jan 2006
Simply Amazing

 
17 16 The Sydney Route Trad 380m Frenchmans Cap Area Mega Classic
robbie houlihan
Sat 12th Jan 2008
what an epic, what more can i say

 
19 16 Tierry le Fronde Alternative Start Trad 65m Frenchmans Cap Area
David Adam Stiles
Tue 13th Apr 2010
16 Tierry le Fronde Trad 150m Frenchmans Cap Area
@g-funk
Tue 13th Apr 2010

Showing 1 - 100 out of 148 ascents.

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