Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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23 | ★★★ De Gaulle's Nose (The De Gaulle's Nose Route) | 300m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Mar 2008 | ||||
awesome, with some gnarly bits. 5 degrees most of the day!
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20 | ★★★ The Lorax - with Kim Walls | 390m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Mon 31st Dec 2018 | ||||
Lead every pitch in a 12 hour hut to hut mission. The crack and traverse pitchs are incredible. Every other pitch was loose, mossy, and poorly protected....
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20 | ★★★ The Lorax | 390m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Mon 23rd Dec 2019 | ||||
80% headspace, 20% climbing, min distance between protections feels like 10m
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20 | ★★★ The Lorax - with steve postle | 390m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Feb 2020 | ||||
Wild wild wild, an astonishing effort by Peter and Garn.
Lead onsight alternating with Steve, the access pitch is horrendous and would highly recommend roping up for it, first few pitches are loose and spacey gear common to be 10m+ between pieces, money pitch is stonker gear, brining the belay 4m under the cave is highly recommended good belay and straight line to next belay, the ledge traverse is insanity, on the traverse pitch for belay definitely step around the arete to big ledge good gear in corner. We were pretty casual about it and naive in hindsight started at 9am 12 hours on the wall 14 1/2hrs hut to hut topped out in the dark. An emotional roller coaster, extraordinary position, classic line..... wow! |
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19 | ★★ The Ninth of January | 160m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Sat 19th Dec 2015 | |||||
Was going to get on The Lorax, but hearing the story of a climbing team who retreated off it the day before put us off. Maybe next year. Did this instead to smash out a shorter one, but ended up taking us longer cos of uncertain routefinding and us being unaware of the scramble-death topout! Pitch 2 was the standout. Bring double ropes! Would've been hell with a single.
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19 | ★★ The Ninth of January - with Mark Feeney | 160m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Jan 2021 | ||||
Very fun climbing on mostly good rock! Pitches 2 and 3 were excellent! Ended up climbing 3 more pitches on the headwall behind for an exciting finish. Not sure if these were part of an existing route as they were very dirty and Chossy. Best of all, we did it on the 9th of January!!!
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19 Hard | ★★ The Ninth of January - with Tom Scott | 160m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Thu 5th Jan 2023 | ||||
Good climbing, very questionable rock at times particularly on pitch 1. The crux is unprotectable and run out, and is some of the scariest trad I've done... proceed with caution. Pitches 3 and 4 were cruisy and nice despite pulling some holds off! The tat for the rap off the top is old and questionable, probably worth replacing.
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19 | ★★ The Ninth of January - with Harley Mills | 160m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Fri 6th Jan 2023 | |||||
Oh boy. Glad we did this route before attempting lorax. Really put the seriousness of the wall into perspective.
Massive runouts, some questionable rock and gear. Glad Harley was leading the crux pitch. Super route, the traverson on P2 was crazy |
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19 | ★★ The Ninth of January | 160m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Sun 26th Feb 2023 | |||||
Squeezing this in the day after Sydney probably added another year onto when I’d return, Three stars.
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18 | ★ Brisbane Line - with Phil Dolan | 300m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Tue 14th Feb 1989 | ||||
Bad route-finding led to a trouser-filling adventure.
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18 | ★★★ Cold-Steel Dawn - with Kim Walls | 97m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Dec 2018 | ||||
Lovely route with the right amount of spice. Pitch 1 is the good shit
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18 | ★★★ Cold-Steel Dawn | 97m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 27th Dec 2019 | ||||
Fantastic climbing
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Feb 2004 | ||||
17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2006 | ||||
climbed in 5 pitches. Outstanding!
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th Dec 2011 | ||||
With Jed. Heady traverse!
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom - with Geoffrey Hernandez | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Jan 2015 | ||||
New years eve trip with the Rasta Rockets!
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Thu 17th Dec 2015 | |||||
(Sorry Gene. Couldn't be bothered with descriptions on my phone!) Brilliant. Just brilliant. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, not even most people, but I highly recommend it for those with a head for adventure, spaced gear, and exposure! What a route, though. I discovered that a small part of me enjoys the delicacy required when climbing on choss (like the first and last couple pitches.
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19 17 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde Direct Variant - with Anthony Shilton, Mikey Musch | 25m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Feb 2019 | ||||
Very clean rock, very solid rock in great positions and some good movement. Given 19 on TheSarvo (and then confusingly listed as 16), this route is definitely 19 ! Aim for the 5m super clean wall with a splitter finger crack. We also started by pulling the rooflet at ground level right near the very bottom of the buttress. Was lulled into a false sense of rock-security here because everything was so solid
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Tue 24th Dec 2019 | ||||
Absolute classic with beautiful pitches but definitely not for the faint hearted. Take lots of # 1s and peanuts plus the usual gear (micros, nuts, cams) double set doesn't hurt
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom - with Cameron Hickling | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 27th Dec 2019 | ||||
11.5 hour hut to hut.
We soloed pitches 1+2 (it's basically a vertical garden) and then mossied our way up the remainder. That crack on pitches 4+5 is stonker and the traverse pitch is wild wild wild! Found that the scariest part of the day was scrambling up that effing col. Loose and steep scree plus big falls is mildy scary to say the least |
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom - with Ryan Siacci | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Jan 2021 | ||||
One of the reasons I started climbing , two years ago i bivouacked at the summit and met crazy John & clair who topped out on the great flake on dark. That Definitely had a deep impact on my climbing journey. So happy to have done this route, can't wait to come back out and tackle some of the bigger harder lines!
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17 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde Direct Variant | 25m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Thu 14th Jan 2021 | |||||
Did a huge run out going direct up the arete, rock was dirty but the movement was great with lots of exposure!
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom - with Tim Winterflood | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Jan 2021 | ||||
What an unreal experience! We got spectacular weather, however, quite a bit of seepage in sections. Good gear for most of the way (recommended rack as mentioned by others), yet, enough no fall zones you certainly want to be confident at the grade, especially for that goddam traverse!
For sure the most exciting Trad adventure I've had so far!
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Wed 16th Feb 2022 | |||||
17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Wed 16th Feb 2022 | ||||
Incredible, this route has been on the life list for a very long time. A striking corner crack followed by an unprotected and butt puckering exposed traverse across the void to another corner system. Definitely the most serious but rewarding pieces of climbing I've had the pleasure of doing!. Wild
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom - with Josh Ring | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Feb 2024 | ||||
A route that has lead me to reflect on my climbing deeply.
The seriousness of this route had my full attention as we were climbing, so much so that I wasn't able to experience much else. Not excitement, joy, fear or otherwise. I was focused on being as safe as possible and succeeding. Both those goals were achieved, but a certain emptiness remains. Much more self reflection to come; on climbing and - as usual - how that relates to life. The morning walk to the start of the route was serendipitous, as sunrise silently rose over a sea of mountain peak islands bathed in the rising alpine fog. 3 day mish. 27km first day. Route the second. 27km out third. Would recommend taking more time to enjoy your time here. It's a lovely place. |
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17 16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 11th Jan 2008 | ||||
amazing and so long. lose rock everywhere and variable weather adds to the flavour. this cliff is huge.....
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | 2006 | ||||
Climbed predominantly in the rain
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 25th Jan 2006 | ||||
Led every pitch. Serious alpine-style route. Two-day walk in with 32kg pack. Rewarded with fine weather.
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Wed 28th Dec 2011 | ||||
With Jed
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17 16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Sat 31st Dec 2011 | ||||
With Jed. Didn't find the chockstone at the end of the first pitch, but good gear at about 40m for a belay. If we were doing the correct 'obvious' line...Good finish
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Rich | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Jan 2015 | ||||
Alt leads. Started at the wrong spot. strung 2 & 3 together. found the old piton on pitch 3 (looked like a cadbury flake) and a stuck nut in the crack system to the right of the line proper (poss fall? nasty roof move) Real alpine flavour, 32kg packs, 4 days walking, 2 days of snow, 1 day of climbing weather. Worth every moment!!
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16 | ★ Tierry le Fronde Alternative Start - with Phil Dolan | 65m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Wed 15th Feb 1989 | ||||
Quite good. When combined with TLF it's a full-on adventure. Originally graded 19.
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Geoffrey Hernandez | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Jan 2015 | ||||
New Years with the Rasta Rockets! Epic start at 4:30pm to finish overhanging pitch at night to get back at the hut by midnight, and off to Chimes of freedom in the morning
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 6th Mar 2018 | ||||
Last pitch discription is a little vague. Should be ‘Up for 5m, then climb the V shaped chimney to horizontal brake follow brake around to the right to an easy escape through the roofs”
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16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Dec 2015 | ||||
Great adventure, rock loose in places, protection far better with modern gear than the 1960s beta indicates. The devils traverse & belay was scary / memorable / unnerving / fantastic :o)
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Kim Walls | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Dec 2018 | ||||
16 | ★ Waterloo Road Direct | 300m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Thu 26th Dec 2019 | ||||
Nice alternate finish to NoJ instead of the scramble up the gully. Only top pitches
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Dec 2019 | ||||
16 | ★ Tierry le Fronde Direct Start | 45m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Wed 25th Dec 2019 | ||||
16 | ★★ The Sydney Route - with Cameron Hickling | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Sat 28th Dec 2019 | |||||
Done in 11 pitches (instead of 13 listed in guide).
An incredible achievement for its day and a historic line. I can only imagine the grit that Bryden Allen and Jack Pettigrew had to pull off this line almost 55 years ago. The climb itself, while enjoyable, suffers from oodles and oodles of loose rock, moss and tricky route-finding. Finding the start was challenging (I'm still not sure we started in the right spot) and route-finding was tricky all the way up to the start of the traverse. Cam and I would regularly stop on lead and double check the route length and description to make sure we were in the right spot. All in all, it took Cam and I 14 hours hut to hut. |
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Cameron Hickling | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | ||||
Rounding out the Frenchmans Cap hat-trick!
What was meant to be an "easy" day out but turned into 8.5 hours hut to hut. Not a huge day but considerably more than expected. Compared to The Sydney Route and The Chimes of Freedom, Tierry Le Fronde was the easiest line to find and follow. It also had the most outrageous exposure of the 3 routes. We are talking tiny belay ledges hanging on prows 200+ meters off the deck and chimneys with nothing but the sucking void beneath you. Radical stuff!!! For future climbers, pitch lengths from The Sarvo and the guidebook are likely incorrect (in our humble opinion). We found that the pitches are probably more like:
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Yants | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Dec 2018 | ||||
Amazing line, looking forward to climbing some more out at Frenchman’s
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16 | ★★ The Sydney Route - with Chris | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Thu 12th Mar 2020 | |||||
The second closest I came to dying in Australia. Helluva day out.
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Chris | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Wed 11th Mar 2020 | |||||
Nice and consistent
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17 |
★★ The Sydney Route
- with
Mark Feeney
2
36m
lead by
Alec Landstra
3
18m
lead by
Mark Feeney
4
36m
lead by
Alec Landstra
5
24m
lead by
Mark Feeney
6
30m
lead by
Alec Landstra
7
30m
lead by
Mark Feeney
8
30m
lead by
Alec Landstra
10
33m
lead by
Alec Landstra
11
30m
lead by
Mark Feeney
12
30m
lead by
Alec Landstra
13
30m
lead by
Mark Feeney
| 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Jan 2021 | ||||
A fantastic outing! Pitches 6 onwards are fantastic! Couldn’t have asked for better weather
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Ryan Siacci | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Jan 2021 | ||||
How's the fucking view on it. Outrageous at the grade for sure
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Thu 14th Jan 2021 | |||||
First 3 ish pitches? We linked a few so was hard to tell. Enjoyable climbing with spicey protection.
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Pauly G, Eugene | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | ||||
Epic & exposed what a climb 🤩
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Zi Hui Lie, Brandon | 160m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th Feb 2021 | ||||
A fun day with quality climbing until the last "roof" pitch which is unfourtunately quite loose and showered us with 3 painful blocks.
Luckily no serious trauma or core shots, but we took the time to patch up and climbed slower for the remaining 1.5 pitches. Upon descent we agreed that aspining ascentionists would appreciate some sympathetic beta for the rooves. If you, my friend, believe that the meaning of life is found under a driving range of death blocks piled higher than the Great Pyramid, read no more... But for the mortals, go 5-6m up juggy crack from grassy corner belay. Then easily traverse right across the gearless wall to good rest under two black gullies. Do not take the left gully. Instead head up the right gully/chimney to good ledge. From there a short (10m?) escape pitch remains. (Total length thus feels 160m or 220m with the solo approach gully) Despite the delay, climbing at night in the heavy mist that descends upon the Cap at dusk was a truly surreal experience and reminded me of why we do this to ourselves. Enjoy! |
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16 | ★ Tierry le Fronde Direct Start | 45m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Sat 20th Feb 2021 | ||||
Better than the gully.
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17 16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Jan 2022 | ||||
16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Feb 2022 | ||||
An epic alpine adventure complete with huge exposure, plenty of loose rock and less than desirable belays. Fantastic!
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16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Mon 21st Feb 2022 | |||||
16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Mon 21st Feb 2022 | |||||
16 ~18 | ★★ The Sydney Route - with Tom Scott | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jan 2023 | ||||
Wow what a day. Was off route pretty considerably for the first 4 pitches, but then pretty sweet once on route. The pitches leading up to the crux were awesome and full value. Lots of moss, dirt, plants, loose rock/boulders and the like. Crux pitch is for sure harder than 16. An inverted staircase, 300m off the deck, that has some decent protection and rest stances, but is definitely harder than 16... All in all, an awesome, full value day!
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16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Feb 2023 | ||||
Such a rich experience to climb at Frenchman’s, not all positive, not all negative but all memorable. Managed to catch a beautiful 5 day weather window and all our routes were bone dry. I got the pointy end of the rope on the Devils staircase which Is more than a bit stiff at 16. Also finding the start was a whole ordeal and I assume I was somewhere near the original. I went up the main gully, sus traverse on vegetation to a grassy ledge then up a “botanically influenced” crack for a full rope length until I spied the chimney on P3. Second tick off the lifelist in a week.
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16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Sun 26th Feb 2023 | |||||
16 ~17 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Wed 15th Jun 2022 | ||||
16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Wed 15th Jun 2022 | ||||
16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 17th Feb 2023 | ||||
16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Lee Prescott | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Feb 2024 | ||||
So so nice, good crack moves, walked back to vera hut after this day
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14 | ★★ The Sydney Route Direct Start | 62m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Mon 6th Jan 1997 | ||||
started on a nice sunny day and finished in the clouds
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14 | ★★ The Sydney Route Direct Start | 62m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
14 | ★★ The Sydney Route Direct Start | 62m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | 1999 | ||||
14 | Fleur-de-lis | 210m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
14 | ★★ The Sydney Route Direct Start | 62m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 31st Dec 2011 | ||||
With Jed Awesome middle pitches! Even the 'climb the overhanging wall on bad rock' bit was great! Pitch 3 is just plain scary though. No gear until after pulling over the big slimy overhanging, bad rock, all while directly over a big, spiky block...
Definitely a route with a bit of character
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14 |
★★ The Sydney Route Direct Start
- with
Mark Feeney
2
lead by
Alec Landstra
| 62m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Jan 2021 | ||||
12 | ★ Surf Slab | 69m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | 2006 | ||||
12 |
★ Surf Slab
1
12
lead by
Chris
2
12
lead by
Paul
| 69m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 6th Dec 2005 | |||||
12 ~16 | ★★ Deceptive Gully - with Tom Veit | 120m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | ||||
10 | ★ Southern Parapet | 200m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Average | Fri 25th Dec 2015 | ||||
Our plan was to climb Tierry le Fronde, but the forecast was an afternoon storm, so we elected for a minimal commitment route in case the storm came early. We chose this route because it involved a bit of bushwalking, interesting route finding descent to the base, and a different view of the mountain. Climbing wasn't great.
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25 | FA ★★★ De Gaulles Direct | 310m, 2 | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Mar 2008 | ||||
Wow. Mind blowing. Unbelievable good climbing on even better rock.
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22 | ★ TLF No Pants Variant - with Grace Bloom, Lachlan Short | 25m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Thu 14th Jan 2021 | ||||
Climbed directly from the Mike law variant. Annoyed I blew the onsight, kept slipping with wet feet and hands, took a couple of big whips onto the belay. The exposure at the crux is full value adventure trad!
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20 | ★★★ The Lorax - with Dylan Glavas | 390m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Feb 2024 | ||||
A serious undertaking! Spent 15 hrs on the wall total as a party of three, only the last pitch in the dark thankfully. Roped up first pitch 'scramble' was wet and sketchy, the crux pitch felt a bit harder than 20 and the traverse was my favourite part- the only actual 3 star part of the climb. Gets three for the location and length though. Was in my head about the last two sparsely protected pitches, but after getting to them the gear was better than anticipated with modern RP's and microcams. Still have to pull a few hard moves above minimal gear, but the challenge is route finding. An epic day out with two good friends, lots of traumatic bonding and appreciating life through the taste of death.
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19 | FA ★ The Newcastle start to Sydney route | 80m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Sat 20th Feb 2021 | ||||
We couldn’t suss out the start the day before due to the amount of rocks being dropped by a party on the route, so just headed up early morning to see if the super direct approach worked. Any placements we had needed major excavation, so whilst it’s possible the line has been done it didn’t feel like it. Felt a bit R even for Frenchman’s standards, but was enjoyable in a type 2 fun way.
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17 | FA ★★★ The Ninth of January Variant | 25m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Thu 26th Dec 2019 | ||||
Climbs very nice, don't scramble up the gully after, instead lead top pitches of Waterloo Road Direct
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16 | ★★ The Sydney Route - with Harley Mills | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Fri 6th Jan 2023 | |||||
What a day, completely off course at the start but just kept questing up and right until we rejoined.
Another serious climb, but an amazing one. Harley did an amazing job leading the crux (no way its 16). The whole experience was amazing Probably no rain on the mount for 12 days before we went up (and temps hovering in the high 20s), but the top of the route was still pretty wet. Would really want to pick your windows for this. Pitch 8 was super run out and wet holds really added to the spice |
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20 | ★★★ The Lorax - with Anthony Shilton | 390m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 28th Feb 2019 | ||||
Probably the most significant ascent of my climbing life to date. An astonishing route in a breathtaking location taking the middle of the highest vertical cliff in the country.
I have solo'ed heaps of stuff in my time, but I do not recommend solo'ing up to the start as per the guide. Too much vegetation, too much loose stuff and too wet. Instead, park yourself directly under the super-shiny slab near the top of the broken cliff and lead it normally up to there. It's 60m from the ground and places you in the right spot for the rest of the route. From there, it's all climbing to the top. Pitch 1 was okay, 2 was a nice crack / corner ramp, 3 was a highlight (correctly graded at 20 and the gear is good, but you'll still want a very good head). Pitch 4 is the outrageous traverse which teases you when you have to leave the ledge - something I'll never forget. Pitch 5 is a good clean crack and pitch 6 starts with the hardest moves on the route through the rooflet. Pitch 7 was fun - we were running out of daylight so I speed-led it in ~10 minutes or so to top out on one of the great finishes ... you climb right to the very top of the cliff and belay with your feet hanging over 400m of air. Finished with the last light of the day and made it back to the hut in the dark. Led pitches 0, 2, 4, half of 6, and 7. One of the great moments for me. |
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20 | ★★★ The Lorax | 390m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 25th Feb 2022 | ||||
What a day! What a route!
Lead free: 4, 5 and 7 |
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20 |
★★★ The Lorax
- with
Lee Prescott, gerrard
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
| 390m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Feb 2024 | ||||
Goddamn what a route, most exposed position I've ever been in and biggest and most beautiful wall I've seen, so fucking sick. Have so much appreciation for everything now. Was wigging at that exposure, was tired, cooked finger etc. it's just about getting to the top of the cliff. Lowered off crux and lee went up, ledge traverse was nuts exposed!! Sick route, 15.5 hours on the wall with party of 3 and a bit of fucking around. Full write up in tahune hut logbook
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19 | ★★ The Ninth of January | 160m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★★ The Ninth of January | 160m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★★ The Ninth of January - with Mikey Musch, Anthony Shilton | 160m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Mar 2019 | ||||
Takes a great feature. Led pitches 1 & 3 (Mikey led P2 and Anthony P4). I did, however, manage to break a hold on P3, hit a ledge and break my foot - although I wouldn't discover this until I'd hiked out and returned to Melbourne ! Aside from the odd bit of fractured rock (and bone !) it's really atmospheric, leaving you hanging out over the valley below, while climbing on grade 8 jugs. Finished by simul-walking up the gully. Could probably find a better line on the main cliff behind the tower if we tried hard enough to finish it in style, but by this point we were ready to return home.
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★ Electra | 100m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★ Very Good | 2011 | ||||
Excellent first pitch. Amazing glassy quartzite
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Jan 2011 | ||||
In sleet and rain. Wet cracks. Numb hands. As mountaineering as you can get in OZ
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Feb 2019 | ||||
Getting to the start of the route is quite dangerous. There is a loose rock gully that you have to scramble up. Wear a helmet and dont be underneath your partner.
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom - with Anthony Shilton, Mikey Musch | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 27th Feb 2019 | ||||
The second best route here. Pitches 4 & 5 linked together as a single pitch is surely the best on the mountain. Easy hand jamming with feet on smears to your right for 50m. We did that with only 1 x #1 and #2 camalot ... there are large wires everywhere although more cams would make it easier. The pitch 6 rising traverse is pretty unforgettable too - put in a little bit of gear at the start, then leave the crack and trust your climbing skillz ! Led pitches 3, 6 & 8
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom - with Matthew Robbins | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Fri 27th Dec 2019 | |||||
11.5 hours hut to hut
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17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom - with Zane Priebbenow | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th Nov 1992 | ||||
17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom - with Zane Priebbenow | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th Nov 1992 | ||||
17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Feb 2022 | ||||
Lead free:2, 4, 7
Spectacular but heaps of wet rock (first and second pitch, finish of pitch 5, the corner crack of p 6)
Was raining the previous day
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17 16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 25th Jan 2006 | ||||
Simply Amazing
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17 16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 12th Jan 2008 | ||||
what an epic, what more can i say
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19 16 | ★ Tierry le Fronde Alternative Start | 65m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | Frenchmans Cap Area | Tue 13th Apr 2010 |