Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V5 | ★★★ Ketamine
A harder sit start to 'Pseudoephedrine', semi dyno off a marginal pinch to sloper then link up. FA: Brendan Heywood, 24 Apr | 5m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V7 | ★★★ Vulcanology SDS
Stack a pad and sit start on the lowest point of the big rail, continue as per Vulcanology | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
22 | ★★★ Cloud Grazer
Start on the large rock deep in the chasm, fairly straight up past 6 bolts to anchor on ledge FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 18 Feb FFA: Michael Moore & Brendan Heywood, 29 Feb | 18m, 6 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V13 | ★★★ Eman's Punt
Crouch start on right hand incut crimp and left hand terrible sidepull. Hard move into start of Matty's Dyno to finish as for that problem FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 30 Dec | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
15 | Dobble
A short easy top rope slab. | 6m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
★★ alternate end
| Upper Gara Gorge | ||||
22 | ★★ The Art of Misdirection
Start on the big jug on the corner about 5m left of 'Inertia'. Up and then technical traverse left across the face then up into cathedral roof for a good rest. Then a thrutchy exit through the roof, up the easy slab to anchors. FA: Brendan Heywood, Volodymyr K & Simon Porter, 18 Nov | 15m, 6 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
★ Powers Lime
Start somewhere left, ideally on the ground or maybe from the half way point with the cool knee bar feature. Traverse up the crack with little finger slots. | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | |||
21 | ★★ Capstone Project
Climb Springer and then change gears and bust left through the horizontal roof crack and mantle. FA: Brendan Heywood, 24 Nov | 15m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
19 | ★★ Springer
A bouldery direct start. Up the face on interesting moves (crux) on to the ledge and up as for 'Keystone corruption' FA: Brendan Heywood, 23 Sep 2023 | 15m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
17 | ★ Keystone corruption
Clip first bolt then head slightly right and up over the flakes, a good #1 placement (avoid gear on the detached arch). Onto the slab (crux) past 2 bolts, then a short unfortunate dirty wade through some lomandra then onto a short crack up to the anchor. FA: Brendan Heywood & Noah Craven, 23 Sep 2023 | 15m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | ★★ Gate Boy Crack
Great little hand jam splitter FA: Michael Moore & Brendan Heywood, 10 Sep 2023 | 5m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
13 | ★★ Youth Beauty Fame
Start as for 'Impunity' but splits after the first bolt. Up the small water streak then trend right through a sea of jugs, over the ledge and then up the short chimney feature. FA: Brendan Heywood & Michael Moore, 10 Sep 2023 | 18m, 5 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
16 | ★★ A Dash of Loneliness
Starts on the left side of the grassy ledge, about 2-3m right off innocence. Up trending right linking into 'Impunity' at the 4th hanger. FA: Brendan Heywood & Michael Moore, 10 Sep 2023 | 20m, 4 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
22 | ★★ The games climbers play
Start on the side pull and using the side block as a step (eliminating this will be very tough). Delicate crux right off the bat through the slopers and then progressively easier the rest of the way up, and then left to the shared anchor. FA: Ben Vincent, Brendan Heywood & Alec Eastwood, 26 Aug 2023 | 15m, 5 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★★ Tactical vomit
A hidden cave problem on excellent rock. A long traverse which starts easy and progressively ramps up to the crux where you turn vertically and exit out the chimney without touching the block behind you. FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 26 Aug 2023 | 7m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
22 | ★ Tac Tic Toe
A crimpy face with a lot of flexing holds, climb delicately to leave some holds for the next climber FA: Ben Vincent, 26 Aug 2023 | 8m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
15 | ★★★ Impunity
Starts in the middle of the ledge above and right of the start of Innocence. Juggy slab climbing trending left through 3 hangers, then through horizontal break (#3 or #4), then second break (#1) and finish up the last 4m of Innocence (optional #1). FA: Brendan Heywood & Blue Mountains Orangutan, 16 Jul 2023 | 20m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | Acute Angle
Start with feet on ledge near ground in centre of Boulder and left hand on crimpy pinch where it looks like a flake has broken off. Traverse across to arete then climb arete to the top. FA: imowow, 15 Jul 2023 | Upper Gara Gorge | |||
22 | ★ Southern Comfort
The arete about 10m right of Poetic Justice. Technical crimps up the arete then traverse left to finish. FA: Brendan Heywood, Ben Vincent & Alec Eastwood, 26 Aug 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★ Side pull caliper
Start on the fantastic side pull, up to left the traverse left to jug and mantle FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 21 May 2023 | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
22 | ★★ Jet B
Up the easy crack (optional gear) then straight up delicate slab moves to the arete after the 3rd bolt. FA: Todd Free & Brendan Heywood, 9 Jun 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
18 | ★★ Pushback
Start in the gully crack, up left through some thin moves and link into Sideslip FA: Brendan Heywood, Ben Vincent & Todd Free, 21 May 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
16 | Short Field
Direct line of 3 bolts FA: Brendan Heywood, 19 May 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
15 | ★ Soft field
Clip the first bolt then diagonally right and up another 2 bolts FA: Brendan Heywood, 19 May 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
16 | ★ Sideslip
Same start and bolts as 'Soft field' but after the second bolt traverse right along the jugs to the arete and up FA: Brendan Heywood, 19 May 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
20 | ★★ Idiopathic
Tricky start on the slab then straight up FA: Brendan Heywood, 16 Apr 2023 | 8m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
23 | ★★ Tarmac
Cruxy start through the rooflet onto the slab then straight up FA: Alec Eastwood, 10 Apr 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
17 | ★★ Overhead compartment
Start around the right corner. Boulder problem mantle onto the ledge then easier to top. FA: Brendan Heywood, Thor Burey & Alec Eastwood, 31 Mar 2023 | 8m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
16 | ★ Transit lounge
Up the steppy zig zap arete FA: Brendan Heywood, Alec Eastwood & Thor Burey, 31 Mar 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
★★★ Star craft
Sit start on sidepulls, up through hard gaston | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | |||
V3 | ★★ Star grazing
Sit start on small left hand and up the slopey arete. The large foot out left is out. FA: Michael Moore, 18 Mar 2023 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ Star crack
Up the crack | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | Easy slab
| 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
Rodney's Direct
Direct project to Rodney's? Looks like the same bolts Audetat used back in the day. | 10m, 4 | Upper Gara Gorge | |||
old hard proj
Extremely hard looking Audetat proj | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | |||
18 | ★★ The Acolytes Cauldron
Start in the cauldron, mantle left, then diagonally right across the face to a bulging crux finish FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 29 Jan 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | Pan juices
One hard move of good side rail and high left foot, up and mantle. May need log stack for pads FA: Benji Dutaillis, 19 Dec 2022 | 1m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★ Creative juices
Water hove start on the horn, up and then traverse through the bowl to left jug and up FA: Brendan Heywood, 19 Dec 2022 | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | ★ Diving plane
Sit start with high right feel on rail, up and mantle FA: Brendan Heywood, 19 Dec 2022 | 1m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★ Periscope
Hard crimp one move problem to mantle FA: Ben Vincent, 19 Dec 2022 | 1m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | ★ Moat retreat
If you can't commit to the mantle bail right | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ Sponge crab
Short crimpy problem that feels more exposed than it is over the void above 'Octopus asylum' FA: Brendan Heywood, 16 Dec 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé
Start just left of GJ, mainly using the big crack until traversing left to mantle the ledge. Some delicate moves gain a good stance before the crux, fire out a very thin crux then head slightly left over the lip to DBB. FFA: Michael Moore, 28 Apr 2023 | 20m, 12 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
22 | ★★★ Mountain Berry Blast
Starts on a DBB on a ledge left of end the first pitch of Geronimo. Up first short slab to ledge, onto the right leaning rail and then step out onto the face with care. Up through a sea of jugs, pinches and sidepulls uncharacteristic for gara. DBB belay. FA: Michael Moore & Brendan Heywood, 8 Sep 2022 | 25m, 8 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
17 | ★★ Cross wired
Start as for WWOS then diagonally right up the slab FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022 | 8m, 4 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
18 | ★ Trip wire
Delicate slab climbing linking into the 3rd bolt of 'Cross wired' FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022 | 6m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
14 | ★★ Zip wire
Interesting boulder start into a crack and then over too quickly FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022 | 5m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
15 | ★★ Hubris
FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022 | 6m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ A cauldron of covid
A short punchy number. Sit start on the two holds with smeared feet, pull on to heel then top out to the right over a hole filled with skank water. FA: Brendan Heywood, 27 Aug 2022 | 1m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | Reference angle
Sit start and up on crimps | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ The opposite side
Just around the corner on the great rail, right and up FA: Ash Powell | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
7 | ★★ The chimney flue
Inside the boulder starting behind Toby's Corner. Cave and chimney all the way up and pop out the top. No gear needed. | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
23 | ★★★ Green Jam
10m right of CDS, hand/fist size crack with a deceptively steep and pumpy boulder finish to DBB FA: Evan Patrick & Michael Moore, 11 Jun 2022 | 13m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
20 | ★★★ Possum Magic
Lovely hand size corner crack with a mix of laybacking and jamming to DBB on ledge. FA: Michael Moore & Benji Dutaillis, 21 Jun 2022 | 13m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★ A flash of commitment
Stand start reach into the glory hold on Jugtastic then traverse on hard slopers left to a big jug then up. A full link up of all 3 lines would make a proper epic king line. FA: Volodymyr K, 7 May 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★★ Inevitable web
Start as for Feeling of Presence but avoid the right easy edge and go straight up the face to the huge rail FA: Brendan Heywood, Ben Vincent & Volodymyr K, 7 May 2022 | 5m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | The anvil
A chunky arete which is harder than it looks. Finish matched on the top block, top outs here are sketchy. FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 7 May 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★ The tongs
Up the crusty crack, then down climb FA: Ben Vincent, 7 May 2022 | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V6 | ★★★ The Blacksmith
Stand start opposing on the hanging block under the steep wall, power your way up until you have both feet above the lip. FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 7 May 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
★ Smithy project
Sit start on the right side of the steep wall, up to side pull then big left move, and then who knows. Maybe it could finish as for The Blacksmith | Upper Gara Gorge | ||||
Unknown/Old Proj?
Two rings to double ring anchor 1m right of Inertia. No information about this route, likely an unsent project. It is one of the earliest routes with glue in rings somewhere in the late 90's. Feel free to post info if available. | 10m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | |||
★ Open Project
Sit start as for Palm Sugar. Side-pull jug, crimp, slopers, crimp and top. Set: Keiron Sames, 24 Apr 2022 | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | |||
V0- | Sloper Fin
2m north of Sloper boulder at base of the Fin. SDS on slopers and up the Fin for a move or two then head L to join Fun Fin at the crimp edge then up. FA: Keiron Sames, 24 Apr 2022 | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★★ Self actualization
Fridge slapping goodness up the large column on the left FA: carol lee & Brendan Heywood, 15 Apr 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★★ Physiological kneeds
Up the hand crack between to two boulders FA: carol lee, Brendan Heywood, Simon Porter, Ash & Danni, 15 Apr 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★★ Safety kneeds
A truly unique problem. Hand crack then into body chimney FA: carol lee, Brendan Heywood & Simon Porter, 15 Apr 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★★ Belonging kneeds
Start either in the crack, or a more direct start on pinching the overhung flake, up then traverse along the flake with the obligatory double knee bar invert rest just because you can. FA: Brendan Heywood & carol lee, 15 Apr 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★ Esteem kneeds
Same start as Safety & Belonging, but then head up the outside to the rail and then dyno to top FA: Brendan Heywood, 15 Apr 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V5/6 | ★★ Arete project
The steep arete from a sit. Follow the line of good crimps and sidepulls to a big move to the lip. The foot block to the left is out. | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ Bumble Jumble
Start at back and move through the roof and anything goes using both sides. | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Fumble Jumble
Start jammed low in the back, move through the perfect hole jam and out without touching the right side | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Three Ways
Awesome but probably an acquired taste. Lie start in the offwidth, traverse left then reach up to slimper, then mantle right and to top. The offwidth can be done with a variety of techniques and is a perfect place to practice hand stacks. FA: Ben Vincent & Volodymyr K, 13 Feb 2022 | 5m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ The Hammer
Sit start contrived mantle and then up the weakness avoiding the right arete. Or it flows nicely if linked from The Sickle FA: Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis & Brendan Heywood, 13 Feb 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★ The Sickle
Low hard sit start through sickle shape then up avoiding right edge. Ideally link into The Hammer FA: Benji Dutaillis, Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 13 Feb 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★ Tumble Jumble
Jam in back, roof moves out right side avoiding left side | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ Easy crimp face
| 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★★ Blokus
Instant classic: Sloper start, up through crimps to sloper, then zig zag to compression moves to top. FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 13 Feb 2022 | 6m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★ The jug tunnel
A bit silly. Directly right of the Death roof and behind the side pull problem. Traverse through the tunnel on the finger crack, then at the end reach up to the jug and mantle without touching either side. FA: Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis & Ben Vincent, 13 Feb 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Chicken Cacciatore
About 5m further right, lie down start inside the off width and chicken wing your way to freedom! FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 13 Feb 2022 | 1m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★ Side pull
On the ledge 5m right of the Death Roof. Up a thin side pull weakness FA: Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis & Ben Vincent, 13 Feb 2022 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
★ Slash project
| 5m | Upper Gara Gorge | |||
V2 | ★★ Barbie Twist n Turn
Sit start on left face, up without touching the right boulder leaning on it. FA: carol lee, 24 Oct 2021 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
25 | ★★ The Plumbers Crack
High start and follow the crack | 8m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | ★★ Easy corner crack
Up the easy corner crack | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ Harry Potter's Scar
A fun warmup slab | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★ Red licorice
Stand start left on the pinch, right on tiny crimp, then up onto the right trending rail. FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Oct 2021 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ Toppled tombstone
Directly 4m is an easy low problem which can be under water at the 0.2 level. Start jammed low, then jug and up FA: Brendan Heywood, carol lee & Ben Vincent, 25 Sep 2021 | 1m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★ Riverside rejections
Sit start the through two sets of slopers and up FA: Brendan Heywood, carol lee & Ben Vincent, 25 Sep 2021 | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Lost Lamington
Start in the crack then left up the rail | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections
SDS through the sloper steps, then traverse right and around the corner to the rail and then either up or across the face FA: carol lee & Ben Vincent, 25 Sep 2021 | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Ivermectin rocks
Sit start on the undercling, up and left and mantle on decent crimp FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Sep 2021 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★ Avoid the Ivermectin
A thin direct line straight up from the undercling FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Sep 2021 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★ Extension start
Sit start extension into ether of the right lines FA: Benji Dutaillis, 4 Sep 2021 | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ Don't drink the creekwater
A fun FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Sep 2021 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★★ Gargling Guardia
A variant that goes through the larger features out to the right FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Sep 2021 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★ Slappy slap
SDS low right hand, slap up right and mantle FA: Brendan Heywood & Benji Dutaillis, 4 Sep 2021 | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | Tickle tick
Left variant of Slappy slap FA: Brendan Heywood & Benji Dutaillis, 4 Sep 2021 | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | Gritstone tombstone
Stand start with high right pinch up gritty slopers. A much harder sit start may go. FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Sep 2021 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★★ Tourist traverse
Start on the very far right, along the great rail then up FA: Benji Dutaillis, 4 Sep 2021 | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge |