Routes in Billy Billy

Mantle onto the pillar, then up the finger and hand crack.

“Quite possibly the best tips crack this side of the black stump”. Would be three stars but for its down market location and cheating potential. Hidden on a wall in the chimney on the other side of “Cold in July” and approached deviously from the other side of this.

Finger sized gear from #0.3 to #0.5 camalots (mostly around #0.4) or equivalent.

For the grade (and the glory) use of the opposing chimney wall is banned i.e. start directly off the chockstones at its base NOT off the ledge on the wall immediately behind you. Finish up the easy brushed slab where the crack curves to horizontal a few metres below the top. Bolt belay/rap-off.

And no whinging about water ice on the wall next to the crack and 2 inches of snow on the starting chockstone and on the top slab - it hasn’t been climbed any other way.

So get off your knees, kiss your tips, say goodbye and it’ll all be over in less time than it takes you to read the route description.

The prominent corner crack with flared start.

The clean off-width problem just left of the entrance to the 'No Respect' alcove.

Hidden in a little alcove, reached by walking through an enclosed chimney then scrambling up a metre. Bouldery start followed by pleasant crack climbing. Rap off.

Up slab past two bolts, then up a corner crack. #0.75, #1 and #2 camalots. Tree belay.

Up right-trending crack and ramp. Take multiples of #2 and #3 camalots

A slabby arete. Start on the flat area on the eastern side of the 'Caribbean Queen' chimney. Bridge up a move and clip a bolt on the wedged boulder. Climb onto it then lean across and clip the second bolt. Up delicately, right to the arete and up. Rap off.

As for 'Swing the Billy' but finish up the sloping ramp.

1. 15m (18) - Start in the cave below and 10m back from the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Boulder up onto the wall. At the top crawl through a hole and scramble up onto boulders to bolt belay.

2. 20m (24) - Up the arete. Seven bolts to chains. Rap off.

Climbs the soaring chimney on the approach to Innocence.

The squeeze chimney between 'Rumble Fish' and 'Agent Orange Victim'.

Layback and slab up the corner.

Hand crack up the Polish split egg (rap off each side). The boulder is about 15m back from the top of 'Agent Orange Victim', and can be accessed by walking up the gully to the right of it then ducking left through an overhang.

The short but interesting finger and hand crack on the left end of the main wall.

The good looking double crack/flake right of "why does it always rain on me". Unfortunately a large flake on the route is loose (all the large blocks on the ground were trundled by hand). Deemed "not worth dying for" by the discoverers, it received a first ascent by a team of keen young suicide bombers. Be careful with the last big flake in the upper crack until the Billy Billy OH&S dept. gets around to trundling it.

The short, easy (relatively) off-width corner right of '72 Virgins'. Up corner, traverse right (#4 or #5 Camalot with long sling) into 'End of Innocence' and finish up this.

Diagonal groove with two bolts right of 'Billy Bonkers'. A #3 Camalot in the groove protects the bouldery start (or stick clip first bolt). Up grove past 2 bolts to ledge, up short corner then pull left to finish on broad ledge as for '72 Virgins'. Gear after the bolts: Camalots from #0.5 to #3 and a couple of extender slings .

Nice hand and fist crack with an interesting finish.

Tackles the short but interesting line in right wall of the alcove 20m left of Christmas in July. Take the left (easier) or right crack on good hand jambs to the wider steep finish.

A little bit of everything. Stick clip the first bolt. Up face to undercling, swing round the arete, up the crack and finish with a slab. Trad belay on the opposite side of the boulder. Gear to red camalot.

The arete high up and left of 'Nice Day for a White Wedding' makes a nice top-rope problem.

Perfect hand crack.

Hand and finger crack.

Place a good wire with a stick, then launch up the overhanging podded crack. When the lower crack ends, move left into the more regular handcrack. Wires and cams for the first half, a few #2 and/or #3 camalots for the upper crack.

The amazing line of disconnected cracks splitting the blunt arête.

Fingers. Double finger-sized cams and a few wires.

The same pair of pants were worn by both leader and second on the first accent of this outstanding, if somewhat wide arching test piece. Start at the short fist crack behind the large fallen tree, up and then left into 15 metres of memorable off-width. Take the largest cams you own, a 4 adequately protects the start of the offwidth. Scramble off.

The fist crack splitting a boulder up high. Reach the start via a somewhat complicated scramble up the gully and choked boulders. Bring two or three #4 camalots, a #3, and a couple of finger/thin hand pieces for the belay.

The imposing overhanging corner crack. Bridge up the right hand wall for a few moves on positive face holds, then into the overhanging hand crack. The angle eases off a little for the offwidth / layback finish. Camalots to #5, with doubles of #1-#3. A #6 camalot can be pre-placed with a stick to protect the start.

The arête right of Puffing Billy. Take a few 60cm slings to hang off the top-belay bolts if you want to lower back to the ground - you can retrieve them on the walk out.

A nice fingery flake-crack. Take a bunch of small cams in the yellow alien to purple camalot range. Tree belay well back.

An amazingly clean and sustained hand crack. Take a green cam or two for the start, then plenty of reds.

Wide-ish layback crack. Take two #4 cams and a double sling for the top. To find it, walk 50m left along the cliff from Groundhog Day. You’ll find it on the opposite side of a clump of boulders.

Curving finger to hand crack.

The hand-crack to off-width inside the chimney. Take a #5 and a #6 camalot

The mirror image of TLA. Climb the easy crack in the chimney at the back of TLA boulder. Access via a scramble, or the descent from TLA.

Hand crack up a corner. Take double #2 and #3 camalot, and optional #4 for the top.

Right-leaning crack / ramp

A steep, meaty offwidth start (point of aid) leads to a great hand crack to be top. Same belay as The Broom Closet.

Clean, cool three sided chimney with two corner cracks. On the north side of the outcrop, find the narrow chimney and squeeze through, walking 10 metres deeper to the wider start. Medium gear belay and scramble down into the middle of the outcrop.

Quality hand jams heading right up the line.

The line 2 m right of Send it, Jimmy, finishing on the arete. Packs a lot into a short climb. From the ground, get a large nut into the seam then pull hard onto the wall and up the right trending crack.

Fantastic hand crack in a chimney. Hi Oli

The [bullsh!t] eliminate start to The Number-Crunching Karma-Tart. Touch the back wall and you're disqualified. Hi Dave

Numerous offwidth adventures available at this sector

Fist crack in the same chimney as NCKT

Miniature version of Hipster Billy's 'The Life Aquatic'. Squeeze chimney protected by hand crack, take #2 - #5 camalot and a finger sized one for the top out.

Overhanging desperately thin finger crack. Paging Oli, Dave, Nick, and Andrew

Less overhanging but thinner crack, will be extra desperate.