Excellent splitter offwidth into a wider layback. We tried it a couple of weeks ago but had no idea how to do hand/fist stacks nor knee locks, nor did we have gear big enough to make the wide second half a sane prospect.
This time, after reading the 'hand/fistoffwidth' section of Peter Whittaker's 'Crack Climbing', having bought back my two Valley Giants (VG) I'd previously sold, plus judicious taping of hands and left knee I was set and got it first go. Gear is big to humungous - #4, 2 x #5, #6, VG#9 and VG#12! A 240cm sling is also handy to loop the large block 3/4 way up.
As granite goes, this is smooth sided and an excellent climb to learn offwidthing on. A top rope using a second rope to get the anchor over the edge can easily be setup using the ring bolts above 'Black Satin Lingerie'. The walk in is about 40 minutes.
Beautiful rock and quite interesting moves, just needs to be twice as long. I'm not convinced by the retrobolt of this one. The gear is pretty small but all good, and setting up a toprope is trivial.
I really like this one. Looks about gr18, and had a nagging feeling the whole time that there is a gr18 sequence which I was missing. One of these days I'll find the easy way to do it. Super glad that this avoided being retrobolted, would be a much less interesting experience as a sport route.
After a couple of years of not coming here, I'd forgotten how good these routes are. Short yet interesting the whole way and quite different to regular a.c.t. granite.