Nodes in Band Of Gypsies

A pleasant group of sunny walls, pinnacles and terraces lining the gully immediately north of Red Rock Pinnacles.

Great in cool, sunny weather, not so if it's warm.

These are the first few climbs to be reached, the Grand Oral Disseminator being the obvious line. These first climbs are described as you come to them (R to L).

Bridge trench to steep finish.

Start: Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle.

Easy crack left of "Bulldozer In The Background".

Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight up diagonal seams. Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer"

Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree.

Start: Start at chimney left of buttress left of "Queen of Der".

Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.

Major crack system around left of "Grand Oral Disseminator", behind boulder.

Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts". Take several #5 cams

UPPER SECTION: It is actually easier to describe these climbs L to R - since most parties will walk up the hill to check out the mostly bolted Mad Cow area, and work down from there; which makes finding the routes much easier!!

Stick clip first FH, and up it, as for "Bury Me Standing". Up and left to horizontal seam and wire placement. Up past FH to vertical crack and easy ground.

Start: Start as for "Bury Me Standing"

Stick clip first FH, bridge to first holds, stepping right into base of right-leading seam. Up over bulges (2 FHs) to stance at base of rotten crack. Arrange gear, step left and up jugs to top.

Start: Start at far end of an orange wall / semi-detached pinnacle just uphill from Mad Cow.

Pretty exciting stuff. Traverse left past 3 FH on flake, then pull over onto slab. Rap off slings. A worthwhile extended finish has been done by continuing up and L into 2nd runnel, finishing about 5m higher. Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox"

Interesting alternate finish to "Mad Cow". At the 2nd FH, make a move R onto slab, then up this to slings.

Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.

Start: Start at right-leading ramp.

Not actually within any SPA.

Not actually within any SPA.

Not actually within any SPA.

Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams. Starts at hanging crack 20m downhill from Mad Cow.

Blocky Line up left of "Gypsy Swing" with a fiery second pitch.

1. 18m (18) Climb the blocky line. Step left onto arête and go up to belay at base of headwall.

2. 18m (19) Start up middle of steep wall, then move back right at top of orange streak to finish at notch a few metres left of right arête.

Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to easier finish. Rap Chain.

Start: Start as for "Gypsy Swing".

Unsercut arete left of "Band Of Thieves" swinging in from the left on a diagonal. Rap Chain.

Obvious clean-cut corner-handcrack, easing up after the first several metres. Trend L at the top to rap chain above Gypsy Swing. Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ.

Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane. R and downhill from Band of Thieves.

The following routes are probably out of order; but hopefully those in the know can put them in their right place.

A tasty excursion. Start: Start as for "Eloquence Of Speech".

Climb wall behind small pinnacle to horizontal break, then small edges past FH to easier ground, finishing steeply at juggy break.

Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.

Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.

Grassy corner on left end of semi-detached pinnacle.

Steep, right-facing corner left of "Blogger".

Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner.

Start: Start as for "Transylvanian Trad".

Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don't rap from bollard or you'll end up in the trees: continue to top

Start: Start at wall left of orange undercut.

Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs" is blocked by a black slab.

Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of the chasm.

Enjoyable face with good gear.

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

Diagonally right up the grassland as for"In A Dark Wood Wandering" to the right-R leading crack. Step across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil.

Start: Start as for "In A Dark Wood Wandering".

From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top.

Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack.

Start: Start on the left between some pines.

Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.

Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall.

Start: On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner.