Chatauqua Peak Mostly Trad climbing 11 routes in crag

Start: Obvious large orange corner towards the RH end of the cliff.

1. 35m (8) The corner to a niche below the overhang. Move R around the bulge and R again to belay

2. 30m (8) Move R to a dead tree [possibly long gone] then L up small gully and straight up to finish through a short chimney/crack.

Best to avoid the dangerous and dirty second pitch and traverse off L to the abseil bolts.

Start: 'Diagonal' crack 40m L of 'Breeding Ground'

1. 25m (11) Climb the crack then up to ledge.

2. 50m (11) Traverse 5m R then up on dirty unprotected rock to large bushy ledge. Move L across slab to finish up broken buttress.

1. 28m (14) L leading flake 6m L of 'Downard', when it runs out at the horizontal break step L and up slab [small cams] to next horizontal. Move L to finish up seam as for 'Butterfly Farm' [it is possible to go up directly but the rock is a bit rotten].

2. 12m (4) Traverse up and L to large ledge, L along this to abseil bolts. [40m abseil to ground]

Good line with a nice slab to finish.

1. 26m (14) Crack 6m L of ARB to detached looking block. Good small cams out R then slightly leftward up clean slab above to seam through bulge. Up this to belay on L under overhang.

2. 12m (4) Traverse up and L to large ledge, L along this to abseil bolts. [40m abseil to ground]

One of the better easier routes, quite varied.

Start: Crack 8m L of BF

1. 25m (14) Surprisingly awkward jam crack to small stance.

2. 20m (14) A few thin moves to start, then up and slightly L to large ledge. Abseil bolts [40m to ground] The route originally finished up the dangerously unstable dirt slope with rocks sticking out of it to the L.

Worse and dirtier than it looks, and it looks disgusting. Don't even think about doing the second pitch. Come to think of it just don't do any of it.

1. 40m (12) The disgusting cleft around to the L of TPTB is climbed [and I use the term loosely] more on dirt than rock to the big ledge. If you have any sense left abseil off the rap bolts now.

2. 50m (14) Up and R on poorly protected mank to ledge. Follow it right and tunnel behind pillar to finish up easy arete above it. A pointless and unpleasant excursion.

Takes the nice looking flake corner on the L arête of 'Lip Service'. Start 1m L of LS. Up seam to bulge, committing moves L into base of flake corner, up this heading R at the top to the abseil bolts.

Would be better if it were cleaner. Worthwhile. 5m L of the LS cleft.

1. 40m (15) Up the crack and step R onto overhang. Straight up wall to ledge.

2. 20m (14) Continue up steeply passing 2 overlaps.

Quite a good old fashioned crack struggle. Take a BD 4 and 5 for the second pitch.

1. 25m (13) The deep jam crack 5m L of RD to the ledge below the overhanging corner.

2. 15m (18) Jam and use small holds on the R wall to struggle up the off width crack to ledge. Sustained, and originally graded 15. If you can't get up it you can traverse L from the ledge and up a steep juggy wall at about grade 12.

3. 25m (14) Step R and straight up wall as for P2 of 'Rattlesnake Daddy'. [Originally finished more easily to the L but the finish as described is much better].

Supposed to be rather good, but I doubt anyone has ever repeated it to verify its quality or grade. Takes the prominent stepped corner line down the L hand end of the cliff.

1. 30m (17) Climb broken flakes under L end of low roof to prominent L facing corner. Up this for a few meters then diagonally up L across slab to roof. Squeeze through gap, bridge next corner then step L to arete. Through overlap to jugs and stance.

2. 20m (19) Awkward, sustained climbing up twin diagonal cracks to vertical flaring crack. Reach up and R to good holds and swing across to a stance. Step down to lower stance then traverse delicately R across wall passing a carrot [12mm, sling with a wire] at head height. Holds improve near arete. Up.