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Cirque Creek

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 4

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

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Summary

GR 2B4796

Description

This valley has a series of small out-crops, mainly on its west side. Heading south on Henham Track from Glenelg River Road, creek is the first crossed which has concrete laid in it.(It is 2.7km south of Moora Creek and second creek north of the one with Castle Creek cliffs on it.) Walk east up creek.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

Cliffs face east. It takes about 10 minutes to reach first outcrop and perhaps 40 minutes to reach final one.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Line right of middle of first buttress on north bank.

FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1991

From ledge on right side of Shock Rockbuttress, go up beside boulder to little corner and overhang. Step right, up crack and corner.

FA: Glen Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1991

Wanders. On left side of next buttress(with a big prow) four minutes’ walk up north side of valley. Up, step left, up, right to corner under overhang, up, left, right.

FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1991

Major corner towards left end of what appears to be fourth outcrop up north side of creek. Gritty black rock. (Out-crop is distinguished by a yellow over-hanging section above a huge fallen block about 20m right of Redundancy Package.)

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Chris Baxter, 1991

Beguiling overhanging crack leading to steep wall climbing with a sting in the tail. Recommended. Line 4m right of Redundancy Package.

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 1991

A major but frustrating line. The offending block should go. Last outcrop on north side of creek, near head of valley, has two major cracks. This is the left one. Huge loose block at top ofcrux section was avoided by the leader climbing down a little, then finishing up left above tree. Seconded direct.

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 1991

Excellent crack right of Bum Steer.

FA: Peter Canning, Glen Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1991

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 26 May
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