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Maiden Ecstasy Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 5

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Description

The huge 100m high buttress on the north side of the creek. Most climbs haven't been exactly located, but the main wall looks impressive.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The big corner on the right side of "Ripple Wall", some distance right of the other climbs.

Climb the big corner to a ledge. Take the crack in the right wall until it rejoins the corner and continue up.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling (alt), 1987

Unattractive and serious. Start a few metres right of "Sunset Groove" ata short flake-chimney just right of the boulder.

  1. 46m (14) Up the edge of the flake. Bridge back left to the bulging wall and up into the wide groove. When the groove divides, take the left-hand fork.

  2. 18m (-) Continue up the groove and then up the right side of the summit block.

FA: Peter Watling & Alan Hope, 1982

Climbing on unusual rock up the most prominent groove on "Ripple Wall", starting near a large boulder that almost blocks the ledge.

  1. 50m (11) Up the groove to belay behind the pinnacle.

  2. 20m (11) Up the arete.

FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham (alt), 1980

A sombre cleft.

Start: Start at the chimney-gully marking the right side of the "Maiden Ecstasy" wall.

  1. 35m (14) 'Gully' to a terrace.

  2. 20m (14) Move right a little then hand-traverse back left into the line and follow it to a ledge.

  3. 40m (14) The chimney to a resting place.

  4. 40m (-) Step right to the arete and go up.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Dave Gairns & Gordon Talbett (alt), 1979

Despite a name worthy of Baxter, this is a very good, sustained and atmospheric climb.

Start: Start at a boulder below a steep wall a metre or two right of "Dur Hardder Direct"

  1. 30m (18) Step off boulder and go straight up steep wall to an overhang near the left arete. Traverse 8 metres right then diagonally right to small stance.

  2. 25m (19) Step left and climb up leftwards through the overhang, heading for a massive bollard. From the bollard continue right up a corner.

  3. 20m (-) On up the corner for 5 metres then go up.

  4. 25m (-) Up

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran (var), 1978

Good climbing directly up the middle of the steep rock.

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Maiden Ecstasy".

  1. 30m (22) Up to an undercling at 5 metres, reach right and up groove until it joins "Maiden Ecstasy" and up to belay as for that climb.

  2. 50m (22) Go straight up. When it steepens, tend right through a series of overhangs. Then the headwall to the ridge. To descend either scramble down the ridge and abseil off a bollard or continue easily to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1991

Enjoyable and quite exposed.

Start: Start a few metres right of "The Wayfarer" at a crack leading to an arete at 7 metres.

  1. 67m (10) Climb crack to arete and follow arete for 60 metres.

  2. 55m (10) Move right on the wall and go up.

FA: Peter Cunningham & John Van Der Leest (alt), 1978

Start: Start on the left wall of the big central chimney.

  1. 50m (8) Up the corner for a rope-length.

  2. 50m (8) Go left to the front of the buttress and up for another 50 metres.

  3. 30m (8) Climb the right arete to a big ledge.

  4. 30m (8) A chimney on the left leads through the overhang then up a smooth slab to more jugs.

FA: Peter Watling & Keith Egerton (alt), 1978

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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