Ascents in Eureka Area

Wow, KP, this is up there with THE BEST. Technical, pumpy, immaculate and intense for 40-odd metres. There is 1 Jug on the entire pitch. 3 laps on Top Rope Solo putting it all together, with surprisi gly good linkage on the 2nd lap (but utterly worn-out by the 3rd lap). Dialled all 5-6 cruxes, but really struggled on the hardest Flake Crux with a blind footer. The top headwall is beautiful steep thinness and nails when pumped. With more endurance I could do this... This is a route to aspire to!

So unlikely. So good! So close. Hopefully do this before heading home

Grrrrr, so close again. One sit even with a bout of gastro. Hopefully next time.

Stellar wall. Amazing crux move. Tom cruise style one handed catch. Awesome.

Classic mix of Boulder problems and jug hauling.

Pitch 1 Only as a warmup. I had gear in Pythagoras Theorum so I lowered off to the ground, then had funky self-belay/aid/free fun seconding myself to get my own gear back. An awesome warmup if you're doing Pythagoras, though potentially a nuisence to clean. I got surprisingly pumped towards the end heel-hooking along the slopey break. P2 looks radical and obvious... intriguing.

What else would we have opposable thumbs for?

Brilliant Climb which contains lots of different climbing styles. Easily in the top 10 climbs I have done to date! 3rd shot (with Batman start).

Usually the ROI on KP routes is quite good...

Placed gear and checked holds on abseil beforehand. Pulled on a couple of holds on abseil, then climbed first attempt from ground.

One rest. Very pumped

2nd go. No way I thought I'd have the juice but I hung on.

very tricky start. Don't fall clipping the second bolt

Dream send! Is this the best climb I've ever done? On JengA's gear (all placed on his onsight attempt, and left quite runout). Ticked 2nd shot after 2 big falls on the flash attempt. Consistantly thin (though with an obvious crux sequence), the sideways slopey crimps are draining on the arms, and make for tricky, slippery footwork. I fought tooth and nail for the tick. The juggy traverse to the arete caught me off-guard for the last super-runout techy move to gain the arete. Exhilerated!

Mega mega mega route. Done as two pitches with Richard Snow. Didnt both with last pitch.

Dam nails bridging at the start. Took me a good few goes to work out what to do then a good few more not to slip off!

Close but no cigar… Placed all the bomber gear on the first burn taking a couple of big falls off the crux, kept the run out to the anchor spicy. Sadly my second shot wasn't to be when my foot slipped post crux, next time gadget. With climbs this good on the best rock who can complain about having to do a few more laps..

Do yourself a favour and stop dreaming about this route just go out there and tie in for the adventure.

Totally amazing. Probably not the best wall to get on when you haven't climbed in 2 months. My feet were all over the place.

Pre-placed gear.

Amazing climb! First two pitches lead in one long pitch from the ground. Tried for the send twice but unfortunately fell at the same point both times. Hard crux up there just took it out of me!

2nd shot, 4-o'clock slump probably contributed to this failure. Oh well, a project for next time.

Managed to do the moves up through the crux with multiple rest and a few whipper but too tired to carry on to the top. I'll need to get used to the style and get my endurance up. Amazing route !

P2: Tag teamed with Steve to lead the gear in. Best effort was 2 rests + a hang to experiment with the sequence to the arete.

Superb climb. I wish I have endurance for it. Couldn't do the crux, due to my bad footwork.

Seconded it to clean the gear. None of the move are too hard but there is a lot of climbing. Still a bit beyond me.

Lead the gear into the top half this time. Came off right at the top of the section with bad feet on my lead attempt. Better to leave the rope in the P1 gear for P2 - lighter to pull up when clipping.

Wow. Committing to the start fall-across from the fin took a while. Onsight to the undercling lower crux, then foot slip, then clean to 2m from the traverse jug placing gear before the wheels fell off. After a lot of falls I still haven't worked out 1.5m of extreme stemming to gain the traverse jug. Once on jug, clean to top. Amazing technical climb with slightly fiddly gear, and an utterly desperate crux. I need KP to resurrect the Gerbil to get through this clean. Back tomorrow.

2 laps top rope. Finally figured out the crux move on the 1st lap. Good linkage on the 2nd lap, but a footslip on the lower crux and another at the main crux before I fixed up my sequence... Then linked from below main crux to the top. Still feels bloody insecure... but possible? Stripped most of my gear but left a fixed rope in situ for easy re-equiping when I come back in a few days.

TRS as a warmup to re-equip the route and refine beta on the lower crux. Struggled in the sweaty sun, but got the gear on (placing it all while leading) and came up with a new sequence for the lower crux that made it more strenuous, but more solid.

Utterly stoked! 2nd shot today, 6th lap total (incl. top rope laps). On the 1st shot I had a random foot slip on the last hard move of the crux, but on the Send it went flawlessly. 13min from setoff to topout according to my phone. So much extreme, tenuous stemming and tiny movements relying on friction and tension to stay on the wall. Stressful and intimidating, but very rewarding. This was the 4th (and last) of my big adventure goals to be knocked off in the past year.

Pitch 1 and 2.

Onsight P1. Scary/Dangerous clipping first bolt, couldn't reach it. Found this pitch technically as difficult as P2. 3 shots at P2, dogged first lap, fell off crux 2nd and 3rd go taking some big whips. Need a rest day as its 7 days on. Last shot, 1 fall at crux and clean to top. Rock climbing doesn't get better than this, one of the best routes I have ever climbed.

Dream to climb. 2nd shot today, still to pumped out placing the gear on the 1st burn. An Absolute Mega route. 2nd pitch only.

soft(ish) 6 or hard 5...call it what you will, either way a frickin awesome climb and a must do in the three star classic Galleon trio! Get on it and enjoy!!