Showing all 20 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
18 | Mods?, What Mods?
Average at best. A route that rises diagonally rightward, ending up on the big ledge as for 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. Start: Starts from the boulder under a chossy roof on the east facing cliff 10m or so around the corner from 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. The details of this route are still as fresh as daisies in the memories of the first ascensionists. FA: Jerry Maddox & Glenn Tempest, 1980 | 60m | |||
17 R | All The Presidents Men
Uninspiring chossy ramble which seems to share the start 10m with Mods? What Mods? Start: Start from the boulder.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983 | 50m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Power Play
Major right leaning 40 degree overhung corner. Pumpy, awkward and sustained. A climb for intelligent chimpanzees. Start: Initialled. Starts 6m left of 'All The Presidents Men' at base of slab and major corner. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983 | 25m | |||
22 | Rebel Without A Corset
Up slab to weakness in roof. Over this (hard) to hand traverse right on jugs to ledge. Wander up wall above to finish. Start: Starts 8m left of 'All The Presidents Men'. FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1985 | 20m | |||
24 | ★ Rebel Yelp
Start as for Rebel Without a Corset. Pull around the crux roof of RWaC. Instead of scuttling up the path of least resistance diagonally right as for RWaC, continue up the line directly until able to move up left past a bolt to finish up the left side of the prow. Double rings. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Jul 2016 | 20m, 1 | |||
24 | ★ Insurgency
Pulls around the left side of the RWaC roof (1m left of RWaC) and climbs up the left-hand crack past a bolt, then past another (as for Rebel Yelp). FA: Malcolm Matheson, Mark Wood & Kevin Lindorff, Jul 2016 | 20m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ The Misty Ridge
FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005 | 60m | |||
16 | Pig Sticker
One of the first routes climbed in the area and a major line. Start: Start at the small leftward facing corner heading up to the obvious major L facing corner. About 40m left of 'Power Play' towards the right hand end of the White Wall. The short wide crack section is quite pushy. Can be split into 2 pitches. FA: Keith Lockwood & Joan Schrameck, 1973 | 50m | |||
15 | ★ Sunset Boulevard
Keith returned 20 years after 'Pig Sticker' to score another good line. Lovely climbing on lovely rock. Start: Start at the pinkish slab just right of the initial corner of 'Pig Sticker'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993 | 50m | |||
14 | Sunset Strip
Up to overhang, swing energetically out left and straight up smooth grey wall above. Walk off upwards. Start: From the start of 'Sunset Boulevard', walk right, along the sloping ledge for 9m to semi hanging belay below first break in overhang. FA: Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2001 | 20m | |||
14 | Royal Parade
Nice rock but not very sustained. Start: The next break to the right of 'Sunset Strip'. FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside & Kieran Loughran, 2001 | 20m | |||
17 | Santa Monica Boulevard
A mountaineering romp up a major feature. Start: Squeezed in between 'Sunset Boulevard' and 'Pig Sticker'.
FA: James McInstosh & Mike Wust, 1998 | 55m, 2 | |||
18 R | Wire Guided
Featured slabby climbing with a real granite feel. Start: Starts 6m left of 'Pig Sticker' from the big ledge 6m up which is accessed by climbing up the tree leaning against the rock. Up the short corner-seam. Continue slightly R for a few metres then straight up slab to top. Protects surprisingly well with wires and small cams. FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983 | 50m | |||
16 | Young And Cunning
An very indirect version of Bay of Pigs. Starts 3m left of Wire Guided. The slab to a large ledge, move 5m left and up to a second ledge. Diagonally up right to large block beneath headwall. Up onto the headwall then left for 4m to below the lefthand end of a large cluster of jugs. Up to top. FA: Peter Cunningham, Kelvin Longhurst & John Blenkhorn, 1984 | 50m | |||
16 | Bay Of Pigs aka Young And Cunning
Start: Starts about 10m left of 'Wire Guided'. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983 | 40m | |||
16 | Bay Of Pigs
Star about 10 left of Wire Guided. Up to the block beneath the short steepening. Step up then traverse 4m left to the big jugs then straight up. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1983 | 35m | |||
18 | Venice
Great central line up wall. The original grade of 14 was definitely suspect - despite Nod having led it in sandshoes because he forgot his climbing shoes. Take slings for pro.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Noel Whiteside, 2001 | 50m, 2 | |||
9 R | Panama Canal
Nice easy jug climbing. Michael and Kevin must have needed a rest day after doing all the other hard routes in the area! Start: 'Access' is a bit of a pain and possibly the crux! Start perhaps 10-15m left of Bay Of Pigs by scrambling along the large ledge then follow it left and up to its continuation. Beginners might want to rope up for this traverse. FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983 | 25m | |||
30 X | Orca
Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c. Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'. FA: Julian Saunders (solo), 2002 | 8m | |||
20 R | ★★★ The Territorial Imperative
Attractive line - if you enjoy offwidths and runouts. The only viable route splitting the endless blankness on the far left side of White Wall. The hidden second pitch looks really good. Start: Locate the major left facing flake crack / chimney about 10m left of 'Panama Canal' back at ground level. The end of the first pitch finishes on the belay ledge for 'Panama Canal'. If you can't find this go back to the gym.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983 | 45m, 2, 1 |
Showing all 20 routes.