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Route as trad in The Walltower Castle

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
14 The Walltower Castle

Some good positions but really filthy climbing on the 2nd pitch.

Start: Start about 15m R of 'Petite Fleur', just R of twin cracks.

  1. 20m (14) The twin cracks climb nicely despite their normally dirty appearance. Gaining them is very old-school 14, however. Up face for 3m then move L to the L-hand crack. Up the cracks to terrace.

  2. 20m (14) Climb the chimney off the terrace to a scrubby ledge. The last part of this pitch is awful.

  3. 20m (-) Climb up 4m then traverse L on doubtful flakes out around the arete to the extreme right of the Grey wall. Straight up to ledge. If you bothered to do this, finish up 'The Crank'.

FA: Richard Schmidt & John McLean, 1966

Trad 74m, 3

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