Showing all 16 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
18 R | Copacabana
On the L side of the cliff is a small but prominent buttress. The small hanging corner and roof at the front of this buttress. Up corner to roof [amazing pockets in LH wall]. Step R to arete and up to next roof. Step R, pull though roof and then boldly up on rounded holds to top. Scramble of L from back of buttress. FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1994 | 35m | |||
17 | Imagination
The top pitch is the main attraction. The final hand traverse is a beauty. Start: On the R side of the 'Copacabana' buttress about 2m up from a yellow square.
FA: James McIntosh & Mike Wust [alts], 1992 | 110m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Brandywine
This description is a slight variation on the original route, but done this way the second pitch is longer and even better. Start: Brandywine, Withywindle and Inner Votion are all in a small amphitheatre up R of Imagination [see photo above]. Scramble up immediately R of Imagination staying on the L until level with a bushy ledge. At the far RH side of the bushy ledge is a steep chimney [Brandywine]. Some people may wish to rope up for this this approach. From the top of these climbs [and Imagination] it is possible to scramble down to the L, eventually descending underneath the big recent rockfall to reach the descent track in the gully. The steep corner chimney at the RH end of the ledge.
FA: Rod Young & Philip Armstrong [alts], 1976 | 50m, 2 | |||
18 | Inner Votion
The start of the traverse on the second pitch is a bit wild. Originally graded 13, I don't know what we were thinking. Some bits of this have been swapped with 'Brandywine' to improve that climb. Start: At the chimney referred to in the access details [Brandywine]
FA: Philip Armstrong & Rod Young [alts], 1976 | 52m, 2 | |||
10 | Access Chimney
An alternative to scrambling up the gully. About 10m R of the access gully for 'Brandywine' is a chimney. Up this then broken ground above. Easier than it looks. | 20m | |||
12 | Withywindle
The filthy top pitch is best avoided by finishing up 'Brandywine' Start: Around the rib, 4m R of 'Brandywine'.
FA: Rod Young [solo], 1976 | 62m, 2 | |||
13 | Gobs'n'Bollocks
A worthless variant on existing routes with about 15m of new climbing, and that is dirty, vegetated and loose. You don't even want to know where it goes. | 70m | |||
17 | ★★★ Sword in the Stone
1
10
40m
2
17
30m
3
17
30m
A grand excursion through intimidating roofs. Start: The start is marked by a small square 15m left of 'Epaminondas'. With grade 17 traversing required on two pitches, the second climber needs to be every bit as confident and competent as the leader.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Mark Shelton, 1976 | 100m, 3 | |||
11 | ★★ Epaminondas
1
11
40m
2
10
45m
3
15m
Takes in some wonderful airy positions. The first pitch is excellent and the second and third pitches, though not in the same class, aren't bad. Start: Starts in a little bay in the middle of the wall (initialled).
FA: Jerry Maddox & Glenn Tempest (alt), 1976 | 100m, 3 | |||
17 | Epaminondas Left Hand Variant
An interesting excursion which can be split into 2 pitches of around the same grade. Instead of traversing R at the start of P2 of Epaminondas head straight up the obvious crack through the overhang. Continue up and R to the thin R curving crack which joins Epaminondas at the chimney. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992 | 40m | |||
18 | ★★ Pelopidas
Magnificent face climbing up buttress R of 'Epaminondas' that delivers more than appearances would suggest. Pitches one and two are both very good, although the first pitch is undoubtably the highlight. After these 2 pitches it is possible and preferable to move L and finish up 'Epaminondas'. [Pelopidas was the right hand man of the Theban General Epaminondas] Start: Scramble to ledge 5m up and R of 'Epaminondas'. At the left hand end of this ledge is a rounded flake.
FA: Melanie & James McIntosh [alts], 1991 | 110m, 4 | |||
14 | ★★ Monkey Man
A classic middle grade adventure. A lot of people get lost on the top pitch of this route. This is odd as at the top of this buttress there are two pronounced corner lines. 'Rum Truffle' finishes up the R hand one and MM the L hand. That's all you really need to know. Both of these corners are R of a large bottomless chimney [MM variant finish]. The only tricky aspect is that MM accesses the LH corner via an easier crack on the arete a few meters R of the foot of the main LH corner rather than climbing directly into the line [see photo below]. Start: Drop down from 'Epaminondas' and head around to the next major buttress. Starts at the back of the scrubby bay between the 'Epaminondas' buttress and this next buttress [the 'Rum Truffle' Buttress].
FA: Steve Craddock, Andrew Moore & Greg Lovejoy [alts], 1989 | 90m, 3 | |||
14 | Monkey Man variant
Climbed numerous times by people lost looking for the top pitch of MM. This chimney is a prominent feature several meters L of the two corners of MM and RT. Written up at least once. Start: At top of Pitch 2 of MM move 3m R instead of 8m to belay below bottomless chimney. Up short steep wall to chimney. Up this. VCC Mt Difficult update has FA as Michael Giacometti, John Maher. 05.03 FA: Unknown, 2000 | 25m | |||
16 | ★ The Squaw on the Hippopotamus
Exposed and sustained, a worthwhile outing. Some suspect rock low down. It is possible to do one long 45metre first pitch but you will need a lot of gear and two ropes to avoid bad rope drag. Start: The pronounced diagonal crack on the right wall of the 'Monkey Man' bay.
FA: Geoff Gledhill & Chris Baxter [alts], 2002 | 80m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Rum Truffle
Some quite good climbing, however the unprotected start to the fourth pitch rather detracts from the experience. Start: The front of the buttress R of the MM bay. Around R of TSOTH. Just R of a prominent pair of roofs low down on the front of the buttress.
FA: Peter Watling & Bill Andrews [var], 1975 | 97m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ Coup De Grace
One of the plum pitches of the crag and a real corker of a line. Start: About 300m right of the 'Epaminondas Buttress' is a prominent, seductive face crack perched above a cracked slab. Fortunately, though the relentlessly overhanging crack is wide, there are holds aplenty.
FA: Chris Baxter & Rick White (alt), 1979 | 50m, 2 |
Showing all 16 routes.