Routes in South-Eastern Grampians

I haven't found a description of this. No idea about grade or quality. It tackles an impressive wall above P1 of 'Storm'. There is a diagram that includes it in the VCC SE 'Grampians' update vol 2.

Start: As for 'Storm'

1. 39m (-) As for 'Storm'.

2. 30m (-) Going by the diagram it heads out L past a bolt then up past 4 more bolts going through a roof near the top.

Up the discontinuous line

Start: Starts 2m to the left of the right arete on the north face of the buttress immediatly (10m) right of the landmark pinnacle.

Insignificant.

Start: Just right of descent gully at left end of cliff. Up easily on left, then right to seam. Up.

Line on left side of curved, recessed wall left of Daggy Dance.

A strong direct line offering good climbing. Start: 8m R of Flower Power.

1. 25m (15) Up steep wall via a thin crack to a small ledge. Move R to main corner.

2. 27m (14) Corner to crack in L wall of main corner. Up corner to ledge under chockstone.

3. 27m (15) Up RH corner to ceiling. Traverse R to nose of buttress. Up over block and back to line. Up to bushy ledge.

4. 30m (16) Up and onto L wall and up through overhangs. Continue up to small ledge on L. An exciting pitch.

5. Line to top.

Interesting all the way. Well protected. "it's not quite a muffin, it's not quite a cookie - it's a mookie" (Ambia Scott)

Start: About 100m left of the 'Death Threat' buttress is a nice grey buttress (lowest point of the cliff) which faces 'Red Chilli Nights'. 'Mookie' starts about 5-10m from the lowest left hand blunt arete and a nice corner. You should be able to see the chains at the end.

Z-shaped corner-crack 10m right of where cliff breaks down.

Start 19m left of 'The Guinea Pig'

Wall and arête left of Rock Melon. Sustained.

1. 42m Up Rock Melon to first section of orange corner. Move left onto wall and follow steep cracks and flakes that lead up, then back right almost into Rock Melon. Step back left and up to bollard. Up wall left of arête to overhang, short corner, then Rock Melon’s ledge.

2. 8m As for Rock Melon.

(On FFA, belay taken on bollard.)

Looks very good and bloody hard for the grade. Could be worth more stars [and a higher grade] if anyone ever repeats it and comments on the quality and difficulty. Up wall 3m R of 'Ponderosa' to diagonal crack. Up crack to ledge. Step R and up wall over loose blocks. Up crack in summit block.

Enjoyable wall climbing which moves between the 2 seams to find the easiest way up.

Start: 2m R of 'Bowrail', 2 thin lines. Start from large slanting block on ground.

A crag classic with a stunning second pitch. The original start is not much chop - ?the direct should make for a better climb. P2 & 3 could be combined quite easily.

Start: 7m right of salvation is an inital, G.

1. 20m (16) Original route: Follow the crack for 6m then rising traverse to the prominent corner. 1a) Grouch Direct (20m 18): from the intial (GD) 4m R of salvation, climb overhang, step L into crack and veer R around arete to foot of corner.

2. 30m (18) Up corner to roof, head left a couple of meters and continue up corner to ledge. A fantastic pitch.

3. 12m (14) head left off ledge, and up corner.

Corner-crack 8 metres left of 'Blackfoot'

Pitiful

Start: From end of terrace L of 'Stage Fright'

1. 36m (8) Broken line to tight chimney, up.

2. 9m (8) Chimney crack on R.

Start: In the big corner on the right side of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

1. 35m (17) At bushes go left and up wall, then back to corner and up to tree.

2. 35m (17) Chimney to top. Scramble (roped) to anchor above 'Rainbow Serpent'.

Line with big block up from Bagnolet.

150m left of the descent gully.

The arete and wall on the right end of the cliff above the col behind green gap pinnacle. Start about 40m down and west of the col.

Something to finish the day on.

Start: 60m R of the Man o War block. Steep crack up middle of short block L of Yard Arm buttress. Watch for some loose blocks below the mid height bulge. Abseil descent from any of a number of trees.

Start: 12m R of MD, the faintly initialled crack/groove on L arête of The Pirate wall.

1. 15m (14) Poor rock to start, then up to overhang, then wall above to stance.

2. 20m (12) Corner to roof, R, up and back L to arete. Up to stance on L

3. 33m (15) Up arete, then slightly L and up to old rusty peg. Above this follow shallow crack/seam up pimply rock to ledge. Up easily on bocks. [This pitch originally headed into dirty gully on L]

Pull powerfully through the roof (watch the hollow flake!) and then up direct line.

Wall just left of Sporting Gesture.

Start: The large left facing corner crack immediately right of 'Death Threat'

Pox. Small corner, then step right to arête on first little buttress ‘where the cliff starts to build up again’.

Initial N, 2m left of 'The Guinea Pig'

Towards the R end of the cliff is a recessed wall below a large ceiling. Flake-cracks to ceiling. L and up break.

(and the story of one not so wise man and woman). Good climbing - just don't do it on a superhot day!

Start: Starts about 30m right (facing the cliff) of "Rainmaker" at small ledge at base of cliff. There is a tree here which can provide some relief from the sun if really hot.

1. 25m (15) Steeper and better than expected - up the corner, moving right on side pulls. Take a few very small (0.2 BD) cams to protect the crux moves. Up corner moving left at small roof / big block. Through crack moving right on ledge and belay on 1m high pillar/ledge just above small tree/bush at horizontal break (takes small-med cams).

2. 45m (15) Traverse left into corner. Up (a few #4 cams are handy) corner until it eases. Scramble easily on loose ground to ledge below last orange wall and corner.

3. 40m (6) This could be bettered by heading up the orange wall or corner somewhere. We just wanted to get off ASAP as we were melting in the sun on a 39 degree day! Up to ledge at base of wall. Traverse easily right (about 15m) to big cool chimney. Up to top.

The crack line on the left side of Tellumis Buttress (ca 40m back of Prince Albert). At a stance step right, then back left under the overhang. Rap Anchor at the top.

Initialled. Climb jagged crack 5m R of BB then up R veering flake.

A harder and better version of AatS

Start: As for AatS but follow L seam all the way.

32 metres left of Sioux'

Big line 13m R of ET, originally described as a 'proud corner' it actually looks like a steep grotty gully...and what do you know, when you climb it that is just what it is.

Start: Superb clean wall between 'Quinkan' and 'Bunjil'. Seriously low on good gear however.

For Phil McMillan. Up to and through orange roof 3m left of Good Question. Up to finish up right crack.

In middle of main orange wall. Up bulges over apparently detached block and sharp flake-crack to V-mantel, then up.

A good sustained and varied first pitch, the second isn't too bad either but not in the same class.

Start: A steep flake 4m R of RA [about 15m R of MD] Initialled.

1. 24m (16) Follow the flake up and R to a vertical crack which leads to a ledge.

2. 35m (13) Up and R to small roof, pass this on the L. R and up.

Left-leaning diagonal 10m left of Daggy Dance.

Start: Start at the back of the chimney left of the 'Death Threat' buttress.

1. 15m (-) Up the right hand corner at the back of the chimney gully, then amble up the wall on the right to belay under the finger crack.

2. 10m (18) The finger crack

Corner with roof at half-height several easy corners left of start of upper cliff. Left under roof. Crack.

Shallow corner 5m right of Echo And The Bunny Men.

Steep and enjoyable face climbing

Start: 10m R of TD, a seam/crack up an attractive wall. Initialled [altho' you can't see the initials from the track thanks to some bushes].

1. 25m (17) Follow seam

2. 15m (15) Short walls and crack

Nice crack route with nothing really shaky on it. Crack in black wall 17m R of 'Humpy' through overhangs to final wide steep crack [BD4 useful] which is more reasonable than it looks.

Takes the R line direct

Start: Corner 2m R of AatS

Start up left edge of buttress 10 metres left of 'Mohawk'. Good moves on the first pitch. A garden at the top of the second pitch.

1. 30m Climb left edge of buttress, 1m left of thin crack. Right on narrow ledge at 6m. Up short, left-facing corner/crack, then right to foot of ‘gully’. Up steeply to ledge, then on to second one (right of tree).

2. 30m Up to next ledge, then up line in yellow wall above until it stops below bulge. Over bulge, then up vegetation to overhang. Pull over this and go up left. Climb short corner-crack, then easy ramp leading up left.

Start: As for SF

1. 30m (12) Up the lose rubbish of SF for 6m then into and up subsidiary line on R.

2. 15m (15) Corner to overhang. A fraught followed by a terrifying swing R on loose blocks and up.

Good moves but some suss rock and spaced mediocre pro detract.

Start: Thin crack about 12m right of 'Quinkan'

1. 40m (16) Step right, then left on to bulge. Up crack line using the wall to the left when needed. Belay at bleached ledge.

2. 40m (17) Up twin lines, right right at overhang and finish up wall. Belay on ledge. Move left (facing the cliff) to rap off "Rainbow Serpent"'s anchor. Suggest stay roped up for this!

Corner, slab and final, shallow corner on buttress right of Sunspot.

Up corner left of I Can Smell Something Burning, veering right.

Looks amazing? Particularly for the grade - very thin crack (wires & small friends) up an inspiring wall. Starts just around the nose of the East facing wall, about 30m left of flay.

1. 30m, Crux. Delicately up bulges in middle of wall, trending left until it is possible to traverse right on black pockets into the crack. Great climbing up this to ledge below ceiling.

2. Up to short L facing corner to roof, then step around R and climb chossy wall above - either finish through two noses, or belay beneath them and walk off right.

Quite good climbing up a series of cracks and flakes directly below the abseil descent.

Start: Start 3m R of the landmark flake on the L side of the gully. Below a thin crack. This is about 25m R of 'Queequeg'.

1. 14m (14) Thin crack up prow of buttress to ledge.

2. 20m (17) Up seam and L to R curving jam crack, up this to break [it is also possible to take the seam direct at about the same grade] then 2m R to crack, follow this to good ledge.

3. 12m (18) Up the thin seams in the middle of the wall behind. This is roughly midway between 2 more prominent cracklines the L one of which is the lovely final pitch of 'Queequeg'.

Looks good and rather hard for the grade.

Start: 5m R of the Pirate

Left at overlap on to block. Up and right to finish up thin crack.

A classic, varied and interesting climbing with a goey crux. Well protected.

Start: Approximately 10m R of GF is a prominent initial, 'G'.

Climb crack just right of cave on first wall up from the Portiere. Left to line in main wall. Left and up corner.

The first ascent of this cliff, long and wandering climb. Starts 50m L of Vertical Groove in R of face, near a small (now dead) tree close to the cliff.

The obvious line 12m left of Discarded Dreams. Up to steepening then step right and up.

Left-leaning corner 30m left of 'Flaming Arrow'.

Corner on L of buttress just R of EBM. Pass R of roof.

Start: A better way to do 'Excalibur', start as for that climb. Interesting climbing on both pitches.

1. 18m (16) Up as for 'Excalibur' but belay at the first ledge.

2. 29m (14) Climb the little corner on the R to the overhang. Pull R ward through overhang then step back L. Up to roof, step L to finish up Excaliburs chimney

Sustained and varied, really very good. Initalled crack 2m R of SF. Up crack to overhang then up shallow V corner in orange wall to overhang. Turn overhang on R then up wall and blocks.

Up line from pillar in front of cave between Empty Dreams and Bambino. Join Bambino at mantel and follow it to final overhang. Exit L.

A lovely sustained first pitch with excellent protection.

Start: 4m R of AatS

1. 25m (18) Up the flake

2. 23m (17) Step R and climb overhanging wall to corner and chimney.

3. 45m (10) Corners and cracks as for 'Blackbeard'.

Line 32 metres right of 'Blackfoot'

Not bad but a bit mossy.

Start: 7m R of TD. Has a prominent square and letter B at its base, making it a good landmark in this area.

1. 18m (12) Climb initialled corner to ledge. Veer L and climb crack beside detached pinnacle. R and up crack to small stance.

2. 21m (13) Nice moves around overhang then line.

Start: Just right of 'Bunjil' is a bulge.

1. 40m (15) Climb the bulge, veer left up wall to left facing corner. Up left wall to ledge above corner.

2. 20m (15) Up the beautiful wall

3. 50m (15) Up the crack and up.

As for Up The Spout. Left before chimney and finish up line.

Start at the bushy ledge beneath Upper Crust. 10m R of Tweedle Dum.

1. 30m 15. From L end of ledge head easily up and L a few meters to a ledge. Up short corner on R to roof, step out R and up line around bulge to ledge. R and up short crack to large ledge.

2. 15m 15 As for Upper Crust.

Start 4m left of I Can Smell Something Burning at twin-trunked tree. Up twin cracks, bulges, then traverse right to finish up I Can Smell Something Burning.